When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So my E250 I finished replacing struts/shocks F/R, both fwd control arms (both sides), and unrelated both diffs fluid, trans fluid filter and transmission mount.
Everything took a while but got it done, I did not replace the inner/outer tie rod ends at this time. Car drives much better now, nice straight line and ride is much smoother. Only issue is the steering wheel is slightly canted to the right (passenger side) by a couple degrees. I did not touch anything steering wise that I am aware of.
Like I said car drives straight as an arrow with hand off wheel and there's no vibration or anything. Got rid of the driver side clunk going over bumps which is one reason I took this on. Only thing I can think of is that the new parts are tighter and caused the steering wheel to be off slightly.
Have not gotten it aligned yet, only place nearby is les Schwab which its a decent one but not sure how they are with these cars. Wanted to see how the tires hold up before I take it in somewhere especially since it drives nice right now. Any suggestions or feedback welcome.
It is the overall geometry changes from new bushings & ball joint ( if any ).
So steering will be effected.
You did tighten those arms bolts at ride height....yes ?
Your arm bushing bolts are the correction ones if I recall in one of your earlier post, so how do you manage to use it as standard bolts ?
This can and will effect steering too if one of the bolts is in correction application.
And your bushing bolt hole shape/type, is it the same as mine ?
Yep jacked up both sides as i torqued everything up.
I used the old bolts so straight smooth shaft, would like new ones but car drove/drives straight and had good tire wear so didnt want to mess with the camber adjustment bolts and washers.
Yes the cutouts in the frames metal were the same style as yours and others just my 4matic front end was differentish, basically like what you found in WIZ. Unfortunately finding those straight shaft bolts and normal thick washers is not easy in US. Found some over seas but they had $80 shipping on top of price of hardware and long leed time. Gonna have to work on that one.
EDIT: Forgot to add to original post, I also changed the sway bar links while in there.
If you can tear down the old sway bar rubber bushing, I am curious are they really molded/vulcanized ( whatever the name is ) ?...or simple compressed like replaceable bushings on other car sway bar.
Thanks
If you can tear down the old sway bar rubber bushing, I am curious are they really molded/vulcanized ( whatever the name is ) ?...or simple compressed like replaceable bushings on other car sway bar.
Thanks
Next time I am under there will take a look, didnt pay close enough attention besides to look at the rubber to see if it was compressed on the bottom.
When I started getting a knock sound over bumps wanted to take care of much of front end. The sway bar links were the cheaper part of the whole thing and figured since they go out faster than other stuff may as well.
The control arm bushings were weaker than the new ones but didnt look bad. Same with the trans mount, I could move it around easier but it was still similar height as new one.
The struts though, I could press them down with one hand, they had about (guessing) 20-30% the resistance of the B4s I installed. The front diff oil was dark almost like used engine oil. Rear diff looked similar to new, trans fluid was darker than new but really didnt look horrible. Granted looks arent much when dealing with fluids.
Still being bugged because when I put the under carriage protectors back on I had one left over bolt. I looked for a while and could not find where it goes. The protectors are in and sturdy but was annoyed I couldnt find it. Saving it for next time I pull those off to do something, maybe locate it then.
Dang, I misread. You replaced the sway bar LINKs..... , I thought theSWAY BAR itself.
Yes, that link is comfort link and will be bye bye fast. Usually the worn out point is the ball joint linked to the strut and not the ball joint linked to the sway bar.
Is your 1 extra un-installed bolt/screw the A ?
If indeed screw/bolt A, you probably missed it at the Center. It uses 7 of those labeled A screws/bolts.
B bolts are for my thickest steel plate, the galvanized one, which is probably different shape if 4-matic.
Cover B in photo below.
C bolts are for the electric power steering protection plate.
Cover D in photo below
Labeled A bolts/screws also being used at the plastic Batman shaped cover which goes to half of the tranny oil pan. it uses 6 pcs labeled A screws/bolts there if on my car.
Cover C below is the Batman Plastic cover on my car
Yeah its one of the 'A' screw/bolt. On mine is little different then yours for all 3 under shields used the 'A' style. They are different design somewhat except the front looks the same. Yep definitely got that front center one. Ill find it next time I gotta pull them off or my car is just having babies and this is how they look when really young .....
Side note: While under there noticed white stuff built up around a sensor on exhaust. It was dried DEF fluid, the sensor retaining nut was on less than finger tight and it is right behind the DEF injector. Probably forgot to tighten that one up back when previous owner had the diesel recall accomplished.
So my E250 I finished replacing struts/shocks F/R, both fwd control arms (both sides), and unrelated both diffs fluid, trans fluid filter and transmission mount.
Everything took a while but got it done, I did not replace the inner/outer tie rod ends at this time. Car drives much better now, nice straight line and ride is much smoother. Only issue is the steering wheel is slightly canted to the right (passenger side) by a couple degrees. I did not touch anything steering wise that I am aware of.
Like I said car drives straight as an arrow with hand off wheel and there's no vibration or anything. Got rid of the driver side clunk going over bumps which is one reason I took this on. Only thing I can think of is that the new parts are tighter and caused the steering wheel to be off slightly.
Have not gotten it aligned yet, only place nearby is les Schwab which its a decent one but not sure how they are with these cars. Wanted to see how the tires hold up before I take it in somewhere especially since it drives nice right now. Any suggestions or feedback welcome.
If the car runs straight and tire wear is ok I would try and see if the spline in the steering wheel is fine enough to just turn the wheel in the spline by one.
Spline is very fine but is it fine enough I’m not sure.
If the car runs straight and tire wear is ok I would try and see if the spline in the steering wheel is fine enough to just turn the wheel in the spline by one.
Spline is very fine but is it fine enough I’m not sure.
There is another DIY way to tackle this. Again, if tire wear is ok, you can adjust the toe in front. You say the steering wheel is to the right a couple degrees so you can open the toe on the right and close it on the left front wheel. You would very carefully adjust the tie rod on right side just a 1/4 turn to open the toe (turn wheel to right) and then very carefully close the toe on left wheel (also turn wheel to right). This means that the steering wheel now needs to turn left to keep car going straight. Is 1/4 turn enough I don't know but it is very sensitive. for this adjustment.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
, I thought the SWAY BAR itself.
