DMB Esq

This car has developed a horrible vibration and/or shudder on acceleration. Mileage is 172k highway miles. I have taken the initiative and made several at home repairs (myself). The vibration and shudder has improved a lot but it is still very nasty on acceleration and at speed. It is actually harder now to identify where it is coming from. I will try again tomorrow.

Repairs Made:

1. Full tune up, coils, plugs, filters; made a noticeable improvement.
2. Changed both lower control arms (the big one in towards the front and the middle one on both sides of the front of the car); again, made a noticeable improvement in ride quality for sure.
3. Changed trans mount because I was already under the car and it has 172k miles; unsure if it made an improvement; and
4. Changed front sway bar end links. Made a difference in ride quality, completely removed a clunking sound while driving.

What did not fully resolve is the vibration (very strong) on acceleration and at speed. I now think it could be coming from somewhere behind the driver's seat. I had many shudders and vibrations in the steering wheel, floor pan (drivers' side) and seat. Most of that has resolved, however, as I said the vibration is quite potent.

Any ideas? I don't want to keep throwing parts at it, but the local dealer is a total rip-off and often misdiagnose problems and the local indie shops aren't much better. I'd like some advice from some experienced people. The flex disc was very good btw.

This is not a casual vibration. It really ruins the ride and frightens my wife. I've never owned a Mercedes that vibrated that badly.
Don

CaliBenzDriver

Everything you've replaced is a seriously good maintenance list.

You still have premium vibrations...
Have a look at your 4MATIC front shafts for bearing issue and also propeller shaft carrier bearing in the center.

To avoid 'spensive surprises maintain these items...

• Tranny oil + 4Matic + rear differential
• DOT4 Brake drain
• Serpentine idlers + tensioner + belt
• interior cabin air filter
• thermostat + coolant drain
• (power steering oil?)
• secondary chain tensioners
• in-tank gas filter
• ....

It's super cheap and restores lots of peace.
🤞

DMB Esq

What exactly is the "front shafts bearing issue"? Are you referring to the front wheel bearings on each wheel? They don't *seem* to be making any noises.... :/ I did check them and there was zero play in them with the wheel on. If that is what you are referring to, I can replace them myself, it's just I don't want to do that if it is not absolutely necessary and I'm not familiar with what is a good or bad bearing in that case. Usually they make some kind of noise or play in the wheel even if ever so slight.

Is there any visual way to determine the carrier bearing issue either visually or through manipulation?

Thanks,

Don

OldManAndHisCar

Last time I had a VERY costly drive line shudder...I mean, spendy.....wheel bearings, motor/trans mounts, arms....on and on and on....it was a cracked rim (that somehow did not let the tire leak air)....

S-Prihadi

Since ur car is 4-matic, what Cali meant is this "weak" component of a 4-matic.

ITEM 4





ITEM 5 of above................
This one too, a possibility

DMB Esq

*Double Posted*

DMB Esq

Thank you for your COMPREHENSIVE (and I truly appreciate it) response.

I can replace the item marked 5-- the forward prop shaft fairly reasonably if necessary, however, I am having a heck of a time locating a part or a better diagram than the one you posted with respect to item #4. Is this the part you are referring to and can you confirm what part # would fit this vehicle/configuration? E550 4matic Sedan 2011?

The only part # I could locate is A2212710248, however, I'm uncertain if that is the correct part in the event it needs to be replaced.

I found that part # through google searching, could not locate it on any of the usual web sites, including MB.

Thank you,

Don

CaliBenzDriver

Look carefully at Surya's research post above. He is showing your transfer case + front differential.
Thank you MS!


the weakest link goes first... "front Diff"

>> Go check your 4Matic front differential for free play between front wheels.

The transfer case is built in the tranny with plenty of clean ATF. It's more robust unlike front diff. only 1Qt of dirty 75w90 gear oil rarely serviced.

Do yourself a favor add a MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG to capture all the grits and pieces.

Enjoy ur troubleshooting.

DMB Esq

How do you recommend that I check for "free play" -- and how do you define "free play" -- not being a wise guy here, just want to make sure I'm understanding. Assuming I find "free play", I would assume I'd check the Universal joint first for slop or clicking or other non-standard behavior to rule out the front differential assembly??

Thanks again,

Don

CaliBenzDriver

yes Don: you've got it!

You're looking for source of VIBRATIONS, this translates as extreme free-play.

The damages are going to be pretty obvious that you won't miss it.

You said the adjustable wheel bearings are not loose, then concentrate on front diff, shafts and transfer case.

Rotate, pull, wobble, yank on shafts to expose unexpected freeplay.

Arrie

An easy way to check if it is center differential related is to observe if the car makes serious shudder when making sharp turns like in parking lots.

Bruce Hubbard

Book it in to a genuine Mercedes Dealer Service Centre
where trained specialists who have come across such problems before
can put it on the hoist and know exactly where to look.
They have a team of auto techs who can exchange ideas on the problem

It doesn't cost that much money and it is better than guessing

Quint22

Ahahahahahahahahhahahha.........

Bruce Hubbard

The person doesn't have your skills set
They can have MB take a look at it diagnose the problem and quote the repairs
Then the person can decide which way to go
Where I live they charge $255 AUD per hour including tax which is not excessive

S-Prihadi

Item 4 is a sad story, it is not sold stand alone. I hope yours is not having issue there but inspection is a must.
Item 4 is part of the 722.9 tranny for 4-matic

This is a damaged item 4 and its supporting hardware, by Master Tasos



.




If your problem is the front propeller shaft from tranny azz to front DIFF, you got to fix it fast.
If that thing snap/broken, it will hit many things and damage A LOT of things.
Search this forum and you will see the carnage.

Sample carnage




.
The propeller shaft

Raj1471

Have the flex discs ever been changed? Symptoms of worn flex discs mirror your driveline shudder under load as per FCP Euro's Meyle Kit #0004110000 description...look at the bottom of the page. Also search YouTube about faulty flex disc symptoms...I recall viewing one where the guy was trying to track down a bad driveline shudder such as yours.

TripleDown

You beat me to it - I was thinking flex discs as well. Very common issue on all modern cars that use them. Especially the high HP ones....

DMB Esq

Yeah, borrowed some lift time from my friend at his shop. Looks like the front prop shaft is real sloppy at the u-joint. He only had a couple minutes, so we'll diagnose it again after hours and get it done. He wants to be a bit more thorough regarding the front diff. something about carrier bearings and something about that output shaft, but, we'll see after we get it up there and drop the exhaust.

Thanks,

Don

CaliBenzDriver

great, your diagnosis almost complete!


Here is about front differential pinion bearings getting damaged once a small fraction of 1Qt oil leaks out.

What you're dealing with is the early stage of this.... but you knew better than to ignore weird noises.

It's not gonna be a bargain but far cheaper than everything scattered into pieces.

Quint22

So trying to understand as I probably need to look at mine to see the arrangement.

In the post above it looks like part 4 is internal to the transmission and is a universal joint? It is stated that part 4 is not sold separately. Later cali mentions it looks like its external to the transmission and same with the video and they say replace it asap upon noise or anything which would lead me to think it is available.

Thanks,

S-Prihadi

Quint,

Item 4 has the cardan joint of the cross joint inside it. we cant see it without a boroscope
Here Maktrans has it for sale stand alone, but the type/number of splines on one's car must be first confirmed.
https://maktrans.net/SQGX7229





.





Here is very clear explanation on item 4 by Master Tasos, which usually its bearing also get damaged, if not the cardan joint inside it.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I remember that parts canon experience you shared with us. Where's that canon now? On display at some war memorial?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Your suggestions are for an ideal situation, and in general, a good recommendation. But the quality of service and trustworthiness of the Mercedes dealerships vary from place to place, as seen here: Dealer Repair Estimate on CPO 2016 E350 - MBWorld.org Forums

Quint22

I see where my confusion was at, the pics had the two different universal (cardon joints to some) joints just one is buried in the trans and the other is attached to the front diff. Why they would put the universal internal to the trans is beyond me, that is just a horrible or well planned out horrible idea. Those little needle bearings can last a long time however they dont last as long as big gears and roller/ball bearings of the type we are use to in vehicles (assuming all taken care of properly).

Wonder if that rear joint is assessable from under the vehicle with trans in place. Gonna have to look at some more videos if available. Thanks for the info.

Edit: after watching the beginning of video I see now how its removed. Not to bad but still looks a pain.

S-Prihadi

I think MB has no where else to place a 2nd cardan/universal joint.
Using 2 of them , one of each end is the better practice.
https://www.beldenuniversal.com/know...output%20shaft.