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Hello everyone. I have a 2010 E350 4matic and I recently got the following error a couple of weeks ago. "ESC Inoperative See Operator's Manual".
I've tried checking YouTube videos and google to see whether it's something I can fix myself but haven't found any solid video or article to help.
I am not good with car repairs as well as I am still a rookie with being a first-time car owner.
Any advice as to how I can approach this issue? I am located in South New Jersey.
Is there a Mercedes repair shop other than the dealership that I can take the vehicle to, or do I have to take it up to the dealer?
Please give me an advice and solutions I can take up.
Thanks.
Your car is in crisis mode. I suggest you dont drive it as it may well be dangerous.
Seek repairs from local MB specialist or use a good scanner to collect fault codes...
An overnight battery charge may help temporarily restore functions.
Are we sure it is (Xmas tree)? I see no RPM’s so engine isn’t running…isn’t it possible that his key on cycle just started and all lights are on for startup?
perhaps OP can clarify whether Check Engine light (etc) remains lit once car is running?
Are we sure it is (Xmas tree)? I see no RPM’s so engine isn’t running…isn’t it possible that his key on cycle just started and all lights are on for startup?
perhaps OP can clarify whether Check Engine light (etc) remains lit once car is running?
PRND shows blank....
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 15, 2024 at 02:20 AM.
The "ESC Inoperative" message indicates that there’s a problem with your car's Electronic Stability Control system, which is crucial for maintaining traction and preventing skidding. Common causes include a faulty wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor issues, or even problems with the ABS system, as the ESC relies on input from these components to function correctly. Corroded connections or wiring problems can also trigger this warning. Since you're new to car repairs, it might be best to start by ensuring your tires are properly inflated and inspect them for uneven wear, as sometimes basic tire issues can affect how the system works.
To diagnose the issue accurately, you should read the fault codes from the ABS Control Module and the ESC Control Unit. These codes will provide precise details about the malfunctioning components. Using a full system scanner like the youcanic will enable you to access codes from all control units in your vehicle, offering a complete view of your car's health. A basic OBD2 scanner like the Innova 3100J might not capture ESC-related codes, which are critical for this diagnosis. Have you checked all the wheel speed sensors for any visible damage or dirt accumulation that might cause intermittent ESC alerts?
We can tell it's not a wheel sensor because PRND is invalidated.
It is likely something causing both conditions.
Low voltage or rain soak
At any rate a good scanner such as a LAUNCH codeReader Elite will help collect known misleading DTC... to survey overall chassis status (ISM/ESP/SAM/.?.)
It's either that or game of part's canon for limited results... Let's see where this goes.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 15, 2024 at 03:49 PM.
Hello everyone, I took the car to a Mercedes dealership last Tuesday 7 days ago and they have nothing for me yet. I usually have to call or text them to ask about the progress but the lady on the line keeps telling me they're still running diagnosis. Can it take this long to do the scanning?
Last edited by Wilkiethomas; Oct 29, 2024 at 08:18 AM.
[UPDATE] ESC Inoperative See Operator's Manual
So MB of CherryHill NJ call me today and the say the issue is the ME control unit has to replaced.
They've sent me these price estimates as well.
Kindly advise me on the next steps I can take
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
The ME Control Unit is your ECU. Was it physically damaged? Why do they need to replace it? Was it full of water? Was the circuit board burned up? No way it should take 3 hours to replace (if their hourly rate is $221) unless they need to spend time programming the new ECU. Actual replacing the unit takes about 45 seconds. $1400 for a reman unit also seems outrageous. Unfortunately, they have you over a barrel.
$532 to replace the starter battery is also crazy. Don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but replacing the battery shouldn't take an hour. Just remember to disconnect the negative before the positive, and then connect the positive before the negative on the new battery. And if you really have a bad battery, that may be the cause of your problem. I would replace the battery first before spending $2000 on an ECU that may not be broken.
You need to find a reputable independent shop. I hate to see arrogant dealerships screw over their customers.
I hate to say this, but you need to be either exceedingly rich or able to do your own maintenance and repairs if you are going to own a Mercedes.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
By the way, there are ECU cloning services on eBay. Also, a used ECU is only a couple hundred dollars, not $1400. I've not used any of these services, but others on this forum have. You may want to ask around.
If your car is drivable, I would wait and see if you can get it working elsewhere for much less.
They didn't even tell me why the need to replace it. They just called and said it had to be replaced. I sure do need to find an independent shop. I'm located in South Jersey
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Why is it not drivable? ESC being inoperable is only a concern if you normally drive in a reckless manner. Remember, there was a time when there was no such thing as ESC. Just realize you need to be aware that traction control is off. No flooring it on wet roads! I would certainly take the car back and have it looked at elsewhere. But I suspect the dealer is going to charge you a lot for the diagnosis.
We can tell it's not a wheel sensor because PRND is invalidated.
It is likely something causing both conditions.
Low voltage or rain soak
At any rate a good scanner such as a LAUNCH codeReader Elite will help collect known misleading DTC... to survey overall chassis status (ISM/ESP/SAM/.?.)
It's either that or game of part's canon for limited results... Let's see where this goes.
Results.... dealers calls for ECU + AGM
$2800.
To me this looks like a standard case of low voltage transient. Where the primary cause is not a bad ECU but likely the solderless ESP brake module growing more unstable.
The Mercedes dealer has your car in shop with every available test tool. If I were you I'd be inclined to trust their diagnostic.
When the exact same thing start happening again in 1 month then suspect transient voltage as the cause... (ECU does manage chassis voltage).
In summary...
$2800 is an expensive chassis Reboot.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 8, 2024 at 11:42 AM.
They didn't even tell me why the need to replace it. They just called and said it had to be replaced. I sure do need to find an independent shop. I'm located in South Jersey
Unfortunately, my son lives there and has yet to find a great Indy in 12 years, the best he's done so far is Mercedes of Atlantic city, that's a long way from his Manhattan apartment or weekend home in Sparta.
They didn't even tell me why the need to replace it. They just called and said it had to be replaced. I sure do need to find an independent shop. I'm located in South Jersey
Ask them if after changing the Engine ECU the car will be OK...as the logic is simple, if you will pay for this generic diag, you will pay for a new ESP as well, maybe for a new ISM and so on.
To me this looks like a standard case of low voltage transient. Where the primary cause is not a bad ECU but likely the solderless ESP brake module growing more unstable.
The Mercedes dealer has your car in shop with every available test tool. If I were you I'd be inclined to trust their diagnostic.
When the exact same thing start happening again in 1 month then suspect transient voltage as the cause... (ECU does manage chassis voltage).
In summary...
$2800 is an expensive chassis Reboot.
To me this looks like a standard case of low voltage transient. Where the primary cause is not a bad ECU but likely the solderless ESP brake module growing more unstable.
The Mercedes dealer has your car in shop with every available test tool. If I were you I'd be inclined to trust their diagnostic.
When the exact same thing start happening again in 1 month then suspect transient voltage as the cause... (ECU does manage chassis voltage).
In summary...
$2800 is an expensive chassis Reboot.
Your car is in crisis mode. I suggest you dont drive it as it may well be dangerous.
Seek repairs from local MB specialist or use a good scanner to collect fault codes...
An overnight battery charge may help temporarily restore functions.
You asked: "what should you do??"
> don't change course.
At this stage I would go with MB dealer repairs. You should trust they have diagnosed your car with necessary factory expertise and are ready to apply a fix.
We, on the other end are a collective bunch of armchair advisers -- Whom do you trust?
Early on you made a good decision not to deal with this advanced fault yourself -
It's a really valid choice you can stick with.
The "X-Mas Tree" fault is a rocky road that can become dangerous when chassis quits while driving...
I think it is a safe step to keep an eye on "volts + Amps" displayed while driving... I always do !
IC displaying "volts + Amps" from BATT Sensor
This display lets you appreciate if low voltage chaos is coming your way.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Nov 12, 2024 at 07:16 PM.
[Update] So I went with what @JettaRed advised. I towed the car and took it to an independent shop in North Jersey, I gave the guy the diagnostic report from Mercedes and explained to him that I had also taken advise from you guys to get a second opinion first. He says that's fine. So the guy calls me a week later telling me the battery is dead and needs replacement. I tell him Mercedes just replaced the battery for $600 a few days back. He tells me we need a new battery regardless, I'm frustrated at this point so I tell him okay get a battery see what happens. He calls a couple of days later asking me what's wrong with the car again, cause everything starts up just fine after he puts in the new battery. We go through the diagnostic report again and find out that we don't need a new ECU unit as the Mercedes dealership wanted. So he checks the car for faults and tells me that I need new brake lines cause the dashboard shows the warning 'check brake fluid'. I ask him to do it but he says he doesn't do brake lines and doesn't know who does. So I had to tow the car back home. It's sitting out in my parking lot right now.
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ESC Inoperative See Operator's Manual
