1st I got P2177 about 2 months ago but now car started feel no power and got 2 more code



The car is 2013 W212 4 Matic with 208,000 miles.
I only use cheap bluetooth OBD reader. I used to have Xentry 2021.09. But I gave the notebook to my son. I am installing new 2024.09 and will read using it. The exhaust had little bit leak in the join between the rear part and front part. I put special metal tape for exhaust. Should I started replacing 2 O2 sensor in Exhaust in passenger and drive side?

New Lambdas... ok but after this is fixed.

Right now you are dealing with low fuel pressure.

Your suspects are:
tank pump/filter
HPFP
rail sensor

I just installed Xentry in my new notebook and got few diagnostic result.



PART 1: O2 Sensor

Result Part 2: Fuel Pump

Part 3: Coolant Temperature Low



Look like Fuel pump current is so small it could be connectivity, or the pump need replacement considering I had 208K miles now.

Do I need to replace all 4 O2 sensors or something else cause temperature is under the range for all O2 sensor near catalytic converter.

Is something wrong with coolant maybe better I flush coolant and put new with correct ratio?

I hope many experts here can help me what should I do 1st.

Do I need to remove exhaust to replace O2 sensor in exhaust? It very hard to remove it I did it before when I fixed broken part that drive front wheel in 4 matic.

These oxygen sensors, be it the wide band front and rear narrow band have 150,000KM approx service life as per Bosch.
Replace them, all 4

@mercyfan , I would start again the test trying to meet the "Test Prerequisites"

As you may observe, in some test or Actual Values readings you have a bolded text like "Test Prerequisites", meaning that for conducting the test the following conditions should be met before continuing the test or before getting any conclusion.

This way, the red values it's not errors, it's just parameters that had to be waited to become...green.

Anyway, Xentry is the most advanced diag system in the entire automotive industry and you can start from the very beginning, like click on the each fault code and just press "continue'...the steps suggested is based on MB experience and will take into account many parameters in the background at each step.


For Example at the Oxygen sensor test, first you have to wait till coolant is more then 80C, after you have to maintain the engine speed of approx 2500rpm....and so on till all the "Prerequisites" will be ready...




Or for checking the Thermostat -
- coolant filed and bled
- engine at idle
- coolant less then 55C ( is is bigger...you can choose another test or you can wait)
- AC Off

Thank you definitely I will do that because not easy to replace it and all close together.

And of course no need....as mostly some air leakage onto the intake manifold can be used as more or less burned oxygen for the lambda...

Thank you for correcting that. Another question in test some time it asked when engine is idle and some time it asked standstill. What is the difference is that mean when car moving it can be consider as idle?

Do you mean no need to replace all four O2 sensors?

As you may known the English Xentry is translated from German... from the Germans.

German language is "explicative language" where every syllabus has just one meaning.... you just have to read like a strict instruction, there is nothing to interpret.

If "engine" on standstill this means ENGINE, never "car".

Something like that...

Sorry for my English...no need...I meant I don't think that the lambda needs to be exchanged without proper diagnosis. I am European...

No wonder RPM way high when I test so the car engine not running when it said standstill.

I am in Bali at the moment, so I do not have access to my working PC back home in Jakarta where I have lots of engine log files to show you how fast the heater
hits above 400C when engine started from COLD. If I recall it is under 20-30 seconds from engine crank-start ( my ambient is 30 - 32C ) to 400C .
The front wide band 02 sensor usually is faster to hit 400C than the rear ones.

While there is a heater circuit DTC from the ECM, if and when the heater part of the 02 sensor goes bad, a very slow heater performance I do not think there is a dedicated DTC for it.

Since 02 sensor need 400C or more to operate properly, any heater poor performance is good bye for 02 sensor.
I do not wait for DTC to repair or replace my components, I see how its degrading performance is and that is obvious from my logs.

You can use your Xentry to log/observe the 02 sensors heating up speed to 400C from COLD start, see how many seconds does it need for both front and rear ?
Do note that when 400C is reached, that does not means the computer will use Close Loop ( 02 sensor based fuel trim ), Xentry call this as STATUS OF LAMBDA CONTROL, if ON = Close Loop.

As to how accurate your front wide band sensor are, you need a stand alone 02 sensor from an emission test machine to compare.
Slow acting 02 sensor for me is a failed sensor and 02 sensor overtime get slowed down with age and use.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.....

I just one to update that I have resolved the problem long time ago. The exhaust pipe joint between engine and catalytic converter corroded long time ago so I cut the part used to clamp tight two part. I did try to fix but not very tight. I think when leak bigger it cause that problem. I fix using exhaust clamp from autozone. Problem solved. I used two clamp below
In-Store Purchase
SureBilt / 2 1/4in Exhaust Clamp
Part #:
17126
SKU:
401455
Qty:
1
And
J-B Weld / Muffler Patch
Part #:
39205
SKU:
202232
Qty:
1

The car now 210k miles and still run fine.
So far I have fixed:
1. Replaced all strut with bilstein around 130k
2. Replace rim from 18 inch to 17 inch because rim broke maybe 5 times. After replaced never happenned almost 90k
3. Broke and replaced part that connect transmission and front wheel gearbox including catalytic converter. Cost me around 2500. This around 140k.

4. Replaced main gear in torque converter that drive the front wheel. That gear part of transmission and mercedes want to replace whole transmission wich cost more than 5k. I replaced many wear item in torque converter and cost me under $1500. Mercedes is smart and will not the part and company in Germany sell it for around $650. This happened around 170k miles. I fixed myself and as amateur take me more than one month.
This could hapenned because previous part replacement the shop didnt put enough grease and cause water leak into the gear that become corroded and cause it to break. This hapenned a lot to may sedan 4matic.
5. At same time I fixed transmission I replaced all wearable part that connect transmission to rear gearbox including all seal and replaced the oil too. Also did something with gearbox for the fron wheel.
6. At same time also replaced all cv boot
7. At same time I replaced motor mount in engine and the other one in transmission. The motor engine mount hard to replace in 4 matic because it so tight.
7. The brush for alternator replaced around 190k
Everything else still original part since built.

I also replaced front light to led which a lot better
To make your car last longer change oil every 5k instead 10k and only use mobil one 0w40. Change transmission oil every 35k instead 70k recommended by mercedes. Mercedes hate if you user their product more than 100k because you will not buy they new product.

Thanks for update, this is good etiquette