Battery drain issue?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 3
From: Montreal, Canada
2003 clk 320 / 2015 B250 / 2016 E 400 Estate (wagon)
Battery drain issue?
Car : E 400 2016 (W212 facelift) station wagon (Estate) in Canada. Approx 188k km.
New recurring problem.
September : Had to replace battery as the car needed to be jumped to start. It may have been the original MB battery (car acquired in 2019). Battery replaced (not OEM).
December : Out of the blue, car would not start. Needed to be jumped again (2.8 volts). Starter would engage, the fuse had blown, possibly due jumping or cold weather that day (-18 C).
Battery replaced again (not OEM) under warranty. Mechanic confirmed that alternator is OK. Instrument cluster message of faulty auxiliary battery, so had that changed with OEM auxiliary battery.
Within the week, car had to be jumped again (4.1 volts).
It could be a coincidence, but both times in December, the car would not recognize the key and I had to remove the Star/Stop button to crank the car a few days before it needed to be jumped.
Either I am unlucky with the not OEM batteries or there's a drain on the system.
Is this something that is known to have happened to others?
New recurring problem.
September : Had to replace battery as the car needed to be jumped to start. It may have been the original MB battery (car acquired in 2019). Battery replaced (not OEM).
December : Out of the blue, car would not start. Needed to be jumped again (2.8 volts). Starter would engage, the fuse had blown, possibly due jumping or cold weather that day (-18 C).
Battery replaced again (not OEM) under warranty. Mechanic confirmed that alternator is OK. Instrument cluster message of faulty auxiliary battery, so had that changed with OEM auxiliary battery.
Within the week, car had to be jumped again (4.1 volts).
It could be a coincidence, but both times in December, the car would not recognize the key and I had to remove the Star/Stop button to crank the car a few days before it needed to be jumped.
Either I am unlucky with the not OEM batteries or there's a drain on the system.
Is this something that is known to have happened to others?
Last edited by cdnswede; Dec 31, 2024 at 02:52 PM.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Car : E 400 2016 (W212 facelift) station wagon (Estate) in Canada. Approx 188k km.
New recurring problem.
September : Had to replace battery as the car needed to be jumped to start. It may have been the original MB battery (car acquired in 2019). Battery replaced (not OEM).
December : Out of the blue, car would not start. Needed to be jumped again (2.8 volts). Starter would engage, the fuse had blown, possibly due jumping or cold weather that day (-18 C).
Battery replaced again (not OEM) under warranty. Mechanic confirmed that alternator is OK. Instrument cluster message of faulty auxiliary battery, so had that changed with OEM auxiliary battery.
Within the week, car had to be jumped again (4.1 volts).
It could be a coincidence, but both times in December, the car would not recognize the key and I had to remove the Star/Stop button to crank the car a few days before it needed to be jumped.
Either I am unlucky with the not OEM batteries or there's a drain on the system.
Is this something that is known to have happened to others?
New recurring problem.
September : Had to replace battery as the car needed to be jumped to start. It may have been the original MB battery (car acquired in 2019). Battery replaced (not OEM).
December : Out of the blue, car would not start. Needed to be jumped again (2.8 volts). Starter would engage, the fuse had blown, possibly due jumping or cold weather that day (-18 C).
Battery replaced again (not OEM) under warranty. Mechanic confirmed that alternator is OK. Instrument cluster message of faulty auxiliary battery, so had that changed with OEM auxiliary battery.
Within the week, car had to be jumped again (4.1 volts).
It could be a coincidence, but both times in December, the car would not recognize the key and I had to remove the Star/Stop button to crank the car a few days before it needed to be jumped.
Either I am unlucky with the not OEM batteries or there's a drain on the system.
Is this something that is known to have happened to others?
> SHORT TERM :
-- prevent low voltage with a CTEK automatic charger
-- use a jump pack to never be stranded away
> LONG TERM :
-- Seek repairs from an independent MB specialist
I would not be surprised when you confirm this was related to water damaged module.
Counter measures will help make this drama less disturbing and cheaper to address.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 31, 2024 at 07:52 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 618
Likes: 241
From: Chicago
19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
I noticed when I got the car earlier this year that it had an interstate battery made in 2013 in it. My car was made at the end of 2013. Not sure how that happened, but I have no complaints about its longevity.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
luck of the draw
Some chassis got no battery issues
some are remarquable battery hogs...
Drained by Parking...
Drained by Driving...
Drained both by driving and then by parking!
likely due to the R-SAM reporting voltage to ECU through CGW.
The variable ALT voltage is nothing but useless drama... >>> unplug ALT LIN!
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 618
Likes: 241
From: Chicago
19 GLA45, 86 560SL, former: 14 E550 4Matic, 09 E350 4Matic, 83 240D manual, 78 450SLC, 81 500SLC
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
The main modules setup to be water damaged are both rear radars and then the Front SAM from roof/windshield leaks.
Besides every module can get disrupted through soaked CAN distribution bars at the footwell door-threshold area.
To identify use favorite troubleshooting tool & procedure to pin point short list.
Besides every module can get disrupted through soaked CAN distribution bars at the footwell door-threshold area.
To identify use favorite troubleshooting tool & procedure to pin point short list.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 31, 2024 at 11:26 PM.
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 6,609
Likes: 6,561
From: Jakarta-Indonesia
2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Start confirming how bad is the battery drain.
Read here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-your-car.html
At the least isolate the module/wire being responsible is at Circuit 30 or Circuit 30G ?
You do not need a scanner for this for tracing ( but needed for DTC reset ), for now.....
just patience and fuse list table of front SAM and rear SAM and F32.... they are fuse boxes too and the front SAM has sensitive electronis in it.
Wiring diagram for alll 3 "fuse boxes" I mentioned will be good. I can help you with all these.
You must have the DMM with 10 amps and 400 milliamps capability and the jumper cable I speak of, to save your DMM fuse from blowing up.
If you have DC current clamp, it will be very good too...but not super important for low power drain.
Read here : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-your-car.html
At the least isolate the module/wire being responsible is at Circuit 30 or Circuit 30G ?
You do not need a scanner for this for tracing ( but needed for DTC reset ), for now.....
just patience and fuse list table of front SAM and rear SAM and F32.... they are fuse boxes too and the front SAM has sensitive electronis in it.
Wiring diagram for alll 3 "fuse boxes" I mentioned will be good. I can help you with all these.
You must have the DMM with 10 amps and 400 milliamps capability and the jumper cable I speak of, to save your DMM fuse from blowing up.
If you have DC current clamp, it will be very good too...but not super important for low power drain.
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Jan 2, 2025 at 03:10 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 3
From: Montreal, Canada
2003 clk 320 / 2015 B250 / 2016 E 400 Estate (wagon)
UPDATE :
Hi all. I left the car with my mechanic for a few days (including the week-end). He had two mechanics with an expertise in car electronics go over the car (approx 4 hours between the two of them) for diagnosis. The only conclusion that all could come to, is that when the engine start/stop button is in the ignition, there is a large amp draw which drains the battery. When the button is removed, there is no abnormal current draw. The car was left over the week-end without the engine start/stop button and it was able to start on Monday. I brought the car at home and left outside (average temperature is about -10 C) and the car cranks since then. I will keep testing for the rest of the week.
Hi all. I left the car with my mechanic for a few days (including the week-end). He had two mechanics with an expertise in car electronics go over the car (approx 4 hours between the two of them) for diagnosis. The only conclusion that all could come to, is that when the engine start/stop button is in the ignition, there is a large amp draw which drains the battery. When the button is removed, there is no abnormal current draw. The car was left over the week-end without the engine start/stop button and it was able to start on Monday. I brought the car at home and left outside (average temperature is about -10 C) and the car cranks since then. I will keep testing for the rest of the week.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 6,802
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
push to start button out
UPDATE :
Hi all. I left the car with my mechanic for a few days (including the week-end). He had two mechanics with an expertise in car electronics go over the car (approx 4 hours between the two of them) for diagnosis. The only conclusion that all could come to, is that when the engine start/stop button is in the ignition, there is a large amp draw which drains the battery. When the button is removed, there is no abnormal current draw. The car was left over the week-end without the engine start/stop button and it was able to start on Monday. I brought the car at home and left outside (average temperature is about -10 C) and the car cranks since then. I will keep testing for the rest of the week.
Hi all. I left the car with my mechanic for a few days (including the week-end). He had two mechanics with an expertise in car electronics go over the car (approx 4 hours between the two of them) for diagnosis. The only conclusion that all could come to, is that when the engine start/stop button is in the ignition, there is a large amp draw which drains the battery. When the button is removed, there is no abnormal current draw. The car was left over the week-end without the engine start/stop button and it was able to start on Monday. I brought the car at home and left outside (average temperature is about -10 C) and the car cranks since then. I will keep testing for the rest of the week.
When the car security is locked the ignition module is inactive.
🤞
