I've had some ongoing issues over the last few weeks.
On April 29, I started to get another misfire on Cylinder 2 and the LAUNCH said the fuel injector had a short. I tried swapping spark plugs and ignition coils, no change. In a flurry before work (kinda crazy tbh), I took apart the top half of the engine and swapped out one of the newer fuel injectors for one of the older ones. (Fuel sprayed everywhere since I did not have the time to let it cool all the way down; don't do that kids.) Also repeated compression testing for giggles; no change. Code went away and car drove fine. That now makes 3/6 new fuel injectors having issues - which does not make sense from a probability standpoint.
Then I started to have battery issues where the battery would drain after long drives (51 miles each way). Luckily, I had a NOCO trickle charger and kept topping it off. Of course, this made me think of the alternator - especially given age and mileage of my E350, as well as premature failure of my Mercedes battery (which I bought Q3 2023). When I tested the (first) Interstate (Costco) battery at idle, it was 12.4V and after revving engine ~ 2500 rpm for 30 sec, it was 14.7V which made it seem like the alternator was operational.
About two weeks ago, I was driving to Walnut Creek from San Jose for early 0600 shift. It was atypically cold for the Bay Area. As I was pulling into the hospital, the car starting rumbling at idle. The CEL started to flash and the code reader detected another engine misfire (cylinder 3). By this point, I had purchased a good battery tester and was keeping it in the car. The battery reported 69% charge. As I could find no obvious cause for parasitic drain, I began to wonder if the alternator was, in fact, going bad (possibly intermittently) and was unable to provide enough energy to the fuel system components, leading to this ongoing misfire issue. I was able to drive home to San Jose (misfire went away in the afternoon with the temp warmed up significantly), I was able to charge up the battery and could not replicate the misfire code with the code reader.
The battery drain has persisted but only with driving. (I have become rather **** retentive about testing before and after drives to collect data.) Eventually, I pulled the trigger and bought a new Valeo alternator off eBay and planned to install to see if this would correct the battery drain and the random misfires. I also returned the new H8 Interstate battery to Costco and got a new one last week. Same issues so it is not a battery issue.
Two nights ago (same evening the alternator arrived, in fact), I drove to meet my partner in San Francisco from Walnut Creek (26 mi) after work (+ 51 mi commute). When I tried to start the car to drive home to San Jose, the ignition lock engaged and I could not start the car. This had not been occurring previously. Did a quick Google search after a few choice words and figured it might have to do with battery drain as the ignition control lock may have discharged (it was a suggestion on websites). I tested the battery. 69% charge. I was able to crank on the steering wheel several times, disengage the lock and drive home to San Jose. On the way home, CEL came on while I was stopped at a light idling. You guessed it: Cylinder 3. By the time I got the car home, battery now 62%. Threw it back on the trickle charger and planned to install the alternator today.
Alternator install was fun, apart from my bloody hands. I was pretty excited as I thought I had finally discovered the issue. Well, car is worse than ever. Now CEL with STORED and CURRENT misfires for cylinders 2 and 3. Will not clear with my LAUNCH reader. The spark plug for 2 looks fine but cylinder 3's is very black and appears to be running rich and there is a strong fuel odor when engine hood is up (and there is a lot of black soot around the R exhaust tip).
I am so frustrated. I have spent close to $4,000 and I feel no closer to when I started. Why does the car intermittently get better with replacement of components then goes back to the same issues? Could something be knocking off my new fuel injectors? Is there anything else to do before taking it to a dealership or indy shop? Or do I just dump it?
I swapped out the Cylinder 3 fuel injector last night with an older one that was known to be working.
n
In the midst of this, I noticed that Cylinder 2's upper intake gasket (the green one) was shredded and Cylinder 1's was puckered. Replaced these with the old ones I had removed. This probably happened when I was rushing to swap a fuel injector before work on April 30 (at least that's my guess as I hadn't noticed any damage to these gaskets when I did that repair.
So far (I was working until 0200), no return of CEL or obvious misfires but vehicle was just idling for 5 min in the garage. Even if it were the upper intake gasket, this would not seem to explain the battery drain while driving or the strong fuel odor. I guess we'll see how it goes with a driving test...
I swapped out the Cylinder 3 fuel injector last night with an older one that was known to be working.
n
In the midst of this, I noticed that Cylinder 2's upper intake gasket (the green one) was shredded and Cylinder 1's was puckered. Replaced these with the old ones I had removed. This probably happened when I was rushing to swap a fuel injector before work on April 30 (at least that's my guess as I hadn't noticed any damage to these gaskets when I did that repair.
So far (I was working until 0200), no return of CEL or obvious misfires but vehicle was just idling for 5 min in the garage. Even if it were the upper intake gasket, this would not seem to explain the battery drain while driving or the strong fuel odor. I guess we'll see how it goes with a driving test...
Every car has competing factors, don't get overwhelmed: devide existing issues sort out repair targets conquer list by priorities
You found multiple contributing factors...(intake seals, drain-by-driving) - Eliminate as many issues you can.
It's not rocket science, think of it this way:
-- You're helping ECU grade good combustion results.
-- As you noticed ECU is extremely sensitive.
-- Every penalty ends up as lean weakness.
Did you code the ECU for the new fuel injector(s) or moved around ones? I feel like that is a necessary step, but I could be wrong?
Obviously I don’t think that is the source of current main issue, but may be involved in excessive fuel smell. Hopefully you’re not bathing cylinder(s) with fuel without ignition events.
I've had some ongoing issues over the last few weeks.
On April 29, I started to get another misfire on Cylinder 2 and the LAUNCH said the fuel injector had a short. I tried swapping spark plugs and ignition coils, no change. In a flurry before work (kinda crazy tbh), I took apart the top half of the engine and swapped out one of the newer fuel injectors for one of the older ones. (Fuel sprayed everywhere since I did not have the time to let it cool all the way down; don't do that kids.) Also repeated compression testing for giggles; no change. Code went away and car drove fine. That now makes 3/6 new fuel injectors having issues - which does not make sense from a probability standpoint.
Then I started to have battery issues where the battery would drain after long drives (51 miles each way). Luckily, I had a NOCO trickle charger and kept topping it off. Of course, this made me think of the alternator - especially given age and mileage of my E350, as well as premature failure of my Mercedes battery (which I bought Q3 2023). When I tested the (first) Interstate (Costco) battery at idle, it was 12.4V and after revving engine ~ 2500 rpm for 30 sec, it was 14.7V which made it seem like the alternator was operational.
About two weeks ago, I was driving to Walnut Creek from San Jose for early 0600 shift. It was atypically cold for the Bay Area. As I was pulling into the hospital, the car starting rumbling at idle. The CEL started to flash and the code reader detected another engine misfire (cylinder 3). By this point, I had purchased a good battery tester and was keeping it in the car. The battery reported 69% charge. As I could find no obvious cause for parasitic drain, I began to wonder if the alternator was, in fact, going bad (possibly intermittently) and was unable to provide enough energy to the fuel system components, leading to this ongoing misfire issue. I was able to drive home to San Jose (misfire went away in the afternoon with the temp warmed up significantly), I was able to charge up the battery and could not replicate the misfire code with the code reader.
The battery drain has persisted but only with driving. (I have become rather **** retentive about testing before and after drives to collect data.) Eventually, I pulled the trigger and bought a new Valeo alternator off eBay and planned to install to see if this would correct the battery drain and the random misfires. I also returned the new H8 Interstate battery to Costco and got a new one last week. Same issues so it is not a battery issue.
Two nights ago (same evening the alternator arrived, in fact), I drove to meet my partner in San Francisco from Walnut Creek (26 mi) after work (+ 51 mi commute). When I tried to start the car to drive home to San Jose, the ignition lock engaged and I could not start the car. This had not been occurring previously. Did a quick Google search after a few choice words and figured it might have to do with battery drain as the ignition control lock may have discharged (it was a suggestion on websites). I tested the battery. 69% charge. I was able to crank on the steering wheel several times, disengage the lock and drive home to San Jose. On the way home, CEL came on while I was stopped at a light idling. You guessed it: Cylinder 3. By the time I got the car home, battery now 62%. Threw it back on the trickle charger and planned to install the alternator today.
Alternator install was fun, apart from my bloody hands. I was pretty excited as I thought I had finally discovered the issue. Well, car is worse than ever. Now CEL with STORED and CURRENT misfires for cylinders 2 and 3. Will not clear with my LAUNCH reader. The spark plug for 2 looks fine but cylinder 3's is very black and appears to be running rich and there is a strong fuel odor when engine hood is up (and there is a lot of black soot around the R exhaust tip).
I am so frustrated. I have spent close to $4,000 and I feel no closer to when I started. Why does the car intermittently get better with replacement of components then goes back to the same issues? Could something be knocking off my new fuel injectors? Is there anything else to do before taking it to a dealership or indy shop? Or do I just dump it?
2 things.
1st - If 3 out of 6 new injectors went bad, I suspect you got conned and was sold fake injectors set.
Go to FCP Euro and get Bosch version which is what MB uses.
2nd - Battery Drain.
Go and clean all your grounds first and then disconnect your alternator LIN wire.
Alternator LIN disconnect. If you alternator has a black plastic connector with only 1 small cable blue color, that is the LIN cable. I am not talking about the very big positive cable.
Disconnect that LIN cable and your ECM can no longer command dumb-azz low charging in the name of emission savings.
Your alternator own charge controller or voltage controller is already in the alternator and it is a very GOOD unit.
The LIN cable from ECM to alternator is a management INTEFERING facility.
Was following this informative and detailed thread with great interest - hoping to hear that OP mdzukunft had successfully resolved all the open issues.
First, I think it turned out to be an old Valeo alternator that was phasing in and out. A MB mechanic informed me that a bad alternator would cause the FIs to run on battery power, which is why my battery was drained after my commute and why I was having intermittent misfires on multiple cylinders with the computer scanner pointing to various FIs. This tracked with battery scanning that showed new battery < 70% after the commute (with 100% before departure), which correlates with failure to charging with RPMs > 2500, misfires and failure to start condition. Once the new Valeo alternator was installed, all these issues resolved and car ran as new for the last 2.5 months.
UPDATE 2:
No start condition as of two days ago. Car had been running fine: Took the kids to Six Flags Great America (15 mile drive), dropped it off to carpool to drop off my daughter 40 min away, then back again. Drove across freeway to have dinner, then drove it home (another 15 mile drive). No issues whatsoever: No dimming lights, no hesitation, no codes. When I woke up the next morning @ 0500 for earlier AM shift, no start condition. Door locks worked, dash lights came on. Tested the new Costco Interstate battery. "Too low charge to test." Failed to jump (not unexpected as charge likely below 70%). Attempted to charge. No dice. Attempted to desulfate with my NOCO. No dice. (My backup MB battery had also drained as it had been disconnected from the NOCO trickle charger. Oops!)
Exchanged Costo Interstate battery for $10. Fully charged, battery health 100%. Same thing happened. Dash lights, headlamps turn on (but no radio or AC). When key turned to ignition position 2, nothing happens. No sounds (clicking), nothing.
At this point, with fully charged battery, would it even matter if new alternator failed? Does not seem like a starter issue since no clicking. Ignition switch? Fuse/relay? Did the security system get triggered? I did note the wheel lock did not engage curiously (as happened when I got stranded in downtown SF), which seemed odd to me. How would I go about checking each of these issues?
My plan today was (a) to write this message and (b) charge up my Launch Elite (it also ran out of juice) and see if the computer could tell my anything.
Only the mileage and shift position lights come up on dashboard. No other lights at ignition position 2.
Launch Elite results:
1. P261029 - The engine off time has an implausible value. There is an invalid signal. STORED.
2. A25464 - The electric steering lock has a malfunction. There is an implausible signal. CURRENT AND STORED.
3. U016800 - Communication with the electronic ignition lock has a malfunction. STORED.
4. B221D49 - The rain sensor has a malfunction. There is an internal electrical fault. STORED.
5. 94d6 - The GPS antenna has a short circuit to ground. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
6. B142E31 - The GPS antenna has a malfunction. The signal is not present. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
7. B15CE00 - Registration on the server for telematic services has failed. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
While 1-3 can be from low battery (which I did have) and/or a bad alternator (which was replaced 2.5 mos ago), it seems more likely the ESL. This correlates with the no start condition that I experienced 2.5 mos ago when I got stranded in SF and could not start the car with the wheels in the locked position. If not a fuse (which ones?), a relay or wiring harness, this seems like big bucks as either the ESL (which I understand is $2000-5000) or the ECU/harness. FML.
Only the mileage and shift position lights come up on dashboard. No other lights at ignition position 2.
Launch Elite results:
1. P261029 - The engine off time has an implausible value. There is an invalid signal. STORED.
2. A25464 - The electric steering lock has a malfunction. There is an implausible signal. CURRENT AND STORED.
3. U016800 - Communication with the electronic ignition lock has a malfunction. STORED.
4. B221D49 - The rain sensor has a malfunction. There is an internal electrical fault. STORED.
5. 94d6 - The GPS antenna has a short circuit to ground. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
6. B142E31 - The GPS antenna has a malfunction. The signal is not present. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
7. B15CE00 - Registration on the server for telematic services has failed. CURRENT AND STORED. (This has been activated since install of my aftermarket Android head unit in 2018.)
While 1-3 can be from low battery (which I did have) and/or a bad alternator (which was replaced 2.5 mos ago), it seems more likely the ESL. This correlates with the no start condition that I experienced 2.5 mos ago when I got stranded in SF and could not start the car with the wheels in the locked position. If not a fuse (which ones?), a relay or wiring harness, this seems like big bucks as either the ESL (which I understand is $2000-5000) or the ECU/harness. FML.
I might just be done with this car...
Now the complete story becomes more reality based.
The no crank is not from low-voltage: it's a failed ESL.
From you list what stands out as No1 is this fault:
A25464 - The electric steering lock has a malfunction.
There is an implausible signal. CURRENT+STORED.
This fault disables "Drive Authorization" ie. no Cranking alowed.
Many ppl decide to use what's called an emulator to replace their failed ESL: see eBay or Google.
Back on the road soon!
+++ LAUNCH Helped Cut short Nightmare...
without proper scanning report you'd be left clueless dealing with only low voltage issues - Now you have clear repair goals.
+++ EXPECTATIONS....
A working ESL is no guarantee everything else is mint, ready to fly...
Keep up the new battery to prevent it getting drained (not to mention AUX batt).
Niw the complete story becimes more reality based.
The no crank is not from low voltage: it's a failed ESL.
From you list what stands out as No1 is this fault:
A25464 - The electric steering lock has a malfunction.
There is an implausible signal. CURRENT+STORED.
This disables "Drive Authorization" ie. no Cranking alowed.
Many ppl decide to use what's called an emulator to replace their failed ESL: see eBay or Google.
Back on the road soon!
+++ LAUNCH Helped Cut Down Nightmare...
without proper scanning report you'd be left clueless dealing with only low voltage issues - Now you have clear repair goals.
+++ EXPECTATIONS....
A working ESL is no guarantee everything else is ready to fly. Keep up the new battery to prevent it getting drain, not mention AUX.
Thank you @CaliBenzDriver . Now that he knows it is the ESL, he can confirm his battery and starter are in great shape by jumping, with a FUSED wire, the relay in the frontSAM. The starter should crank.
Below is the jumping procedure. If the steering is locked, do not attempt to drive it. Do not recall if your car has electric power steering, or hydraulic one.
Thank you @CaliBenzDriver . Now that he knows it is the ESL, he can confirm his battery and starter are in great shape by jumping, with a FUSED wire, the relay in the frontSAM. The starter should crank.
Below is the jumping procedure. If the steering is locked, do not attempt to drive it.
Do not recall if your car has electric power steering, or hydraulic one.
Went back to the car and moved the electronic steering column adjuster in and out and then - voila! - all the dash lights came on at ignition position 2 and the engine turned over like normal.
This all but confirms the ESL, correct? Meaning it shouldn't be an ECU, wiring harness, fuse/relay issue as that should result in total (not intermittent) failure, correct?
I just watched a YouTube video on the operation for disassembly so that's my next step in the next few days once specialty parts arrive.
Went back to the car and moved the electronic steering column adjuster in and out and then - voila! - all the dash lights came on at ignition position 2 and the engine turned over like normal.
This all but confirms the ESL, correct? Meaning it shouldn't be an ECU, wiring harness, fuse/relay issue as that should result in total (not intermittent) failure, correct?
I just watched a YouTube video on the operation for disassembly so that's my next step in the next few days once specialty parts arrive.
EXACTLY RIGHT!!
Now you see how simple this really once the chaos gets untangled.
Went back to the car and moved the electronic steering column adjuster in and out and then - voila! - all the dash lights came on at ignition position 2 and the engine turned over like normal.
This all but confirms the ESL, correct? Meaning it shouldn't be an ECU, wiring harness, fuse/relay issue as that should result in total (not intermittent) failure, correct?
I just watched a YouTube video on the operation for disassembly so that's my next step in the next few days once specialty parts arrive.
Great for you. Now you have it under control.
That is what some YouTube videos show. Hit it until the car start, unlock and dissassemble it as soon as possible; otherwise, getting the ESL is a real pain.
Well, that was a PITA to get out of the coupe. All the way at the very back and had to partially remove the steering column to get at it. At least it was in the unlocked position. Only thing I broke was the plastic piece to the dashboard (dodometer reset?) Now time to find a coder...
Well, that was a PITA to get out of the coupe. All the way at the very back and had to partially remove the steering column to get at it. At least it was in the unlocked position. Only thing I broke was the plastic piece to the dashboard (dodometer reset?) Now time to find a coder...
or check if it is only the electric motor, $20, replace and reinstall. You can buy 2 motors and have them ready for the subsequent failure in 10+ years.
The ECoupe is really a C Class & belongs in that forum!
QUOTE=mdzukunft;9131012]Replacing the Bank 2, Intake VTT per the official manner and to check tone rings/shaft. And fix the upper guide rails.
Bank 1 Bank 2
An important point: When you hear the click, you should test by visual inspection each of the camshaft adjusters. I could have sworn it was one of the Bank 1 VTTs but it ended up being the Bank 2, Intake VTT which is the usual culprit on the M276. And that would explain the P0346 code, which also correlates to Bank 2.[/QUOTE]
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
