E-Class (W212) 2010 - 2016: E 350, E 550
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What is this noise on startup?

Old May 8, 2025 | 10:05 PM
  #26  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Originally Posted by TL200
I am taking a closer look under the hood at this thing, it seems accessing these camshaft gears takes less than an hour. If I was to tackle replacing them myself does the motor need to be locked or any other procedure taken outside of replacing it?
many ways to skin a cat... the official way is longer than unapproved ways to shortcut job.
I have seen ppl jam the two VVT with a gear in-between so chain sees no strain.
Torque is around 100Lb-Ft.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 8, 2025 at 10:08 PM.
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Old May 8, 2025 | 11:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
many ways to skin a cat... the official way is longer than unapproved ways to shortcut job.
I have seen ppl jam the two VVT with a gear in-between so chain sees no strain.
Torque is around 100Lb-Ft.
I guess does the motor or the camshaft have to be locked in place when removing that center piece from the camshaft adjuster? I may not be looking at this all correctly but the last thing I’d want to do is slip the camshaft out of time, or is that not possible
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Old May 9, 2025 | 01:16 AM
  #28  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Originally Posted by TL200
I guess does the motor or the camshaft have to be locked in place when removing that center piece from the camshaft adjuster? I may not be looking at this all correctly but the last thing I’d want to do is slip the camshaft out of time, or is that not possible
yes, something needs to keep the camshaft from spinning under 100lb-ft torque.
Normally camshaft needs to be pulled out of engine or at least with valve cover removed to expose grab section.
Chain is not supposed to see 100lb-ft.
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Old May 9, 2025 | 01:38 AM
  #29  
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Originally Posted by TL200
I guess does the motor or the camshaft have to be locked in place when removing that center piece from the camshaft adjuster? I may not be looking at this all correctly but the last thing I’d want to do is slip the camshaft out of time, or is that not possible
The center piece inside the VVT is the oil valve. That is 130Nm tightening torque, approx 100 lbs.
The rear azz of the camshaft has T60 torx built-in female thread ( internal ) for us to use a T60 torx male as a way to hold the camshaft when one torque or remove the VVT oil valve.
Yes, cylinder head cover has to be removed, injectors too and all the supporting obstacle/s.

Many who does not have access to WIS or lazy or BOTH ....thinks the timing chain is good enough as camshaft "holder".
130Nm is our (mine) wheel bolt torque.

If chain is still good, probably you wont break it doing 130NM, but maybe you will strech it.




.



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Old May 9, 2025 | 07:13 AM
  #30  
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I’ve done this job. It’s not easy, but very doable as DIY IF methodical and follow instructions as S-Pri advised above. I didn’t have any timing issue following VVT replacement, though I was certainly nervous of that happening
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Old May 10, 2025 | 12:51 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
The center piece inside the VVT is the oil valve. That is 130Nm tightening torque, approx 100 lbs.
The rear azz of the camshaft has T60 torx built-in female thread ( internal ) for us to use a T60 torx male as a way to hold the camshaft when one torque or remove the VVT oil valve.
Yes, cylinder head cover has to be removed, injectors too and all the supporting obstacle/s.

Many who does not have access to WIS or lazy or BOTH ....thinks the timing chain is good enough as camshaft "holder".
130Nm is our (mine) wheel bolt torque.

If chain is still good, probably you wont break it doing 130NM, but maybe you will strech it.




.

I appreciate the insight, I am seeing a lot of videos on YouTube of people replacing these adjusters without even removing the top cover, just removing the front cover and unscrewing swapping out gear and tensioner and buttoning everything back up, is this the incorrect way of completing this job? Or are they just taking a risk of something else going wrong?
I think I am understanding more after re reading what you said, the way I am seeing in the videos is what you are describing when people use the chain as a holder instead of removing the cover and holding the cam in place so when the adjuster is removed there is no pressure put on the chain. Am I understanding correctly?

reference video for what I am talking about https://youtu.be/0R6vYlM6EJE?si=PrQmJUsOmYuJN8h3

Last edited by TL200; May 10, 2025 at 12:56 AM.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 02:00 AM
  #32  
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So you watched those dumb-azz China mechanics utube University
Watch Master Tasos if you want MB content.

I think my explanation is clear. It is your car, do what you want with it, its ur call.
I have told you the correct way, as per engine builder and designer issued WIS, where they went to top school and work for a reputable car company and can design and build engine from scratch.



If you don't want any trouble doing DIY, get a proper MB certified aftermarket shop and get them to do the job for you. That is simplest but cost the most.


Watch this video and tell me what is wrong ?


.

.

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Old May 10, 2025 | 04:57 AM
  #33  
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LIGHT DUTY CHAINS

If a secondary timing chain brakes, valves will kiss pistons and engine will get compromised.

This engine has an intermediate chain and sprocket where soft balancing-shaft used to eat up its gear


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 10, 2025 at 05:09 AM.
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Old May 10, 2025 | 05:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
So you watched those dumb-azz China mechanics utube University
Watch Master Tasos if you want MB content.

I think my explanation is clear. It is your car, do what you want with it, its ur call.
I have told you the correct way, as per engine builder and designer issued WIS, where they went to top school and work for a reputable car company and can design and build engine from scratch.



If you don't want any trouble doing DIY, get a proper MB certified aftermarket shop and get them to do the job for you. That is simplest but cost the most.


Watch this video and tell me what is wrong ?
https://youtu.be/M1CsETnxOZE


.
https://youtu.be/CFRRL4_Qwt4

.
I appreciate your help, I am not saying you do not know what you are talking about I am just trying to understand how some of these mechanics are changing it without opening the valve cover. This will be my first time doing any internal work on any vehicle, no local shop wants to do just the camshaft gears because they claim the gears and chains wear together, which may be true but I’m sure even the Mercedes dealership would change out just the cam gears since it’s such a common failure
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Old May 10, 2025 | 09:04 PM
  #35  
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I saw some of those videos when I was researching prior to doing my VVT job. I think it’s honestly all about individual level of risk acceptance? I don’t doubt it can be done a few different ways. When I was doing my car, my biggest fear was screwing up the timing, possibly without realizing it, then having catastrophic engine failure upon startup. That said, I did employ a ‘shortcut’ or two, including vise grips locked on cam to hold it in position (rather than employing another T60 at rear of cam as I believe the WIS instructs (iirc)
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Old May 10, 2025 | 09:21 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jaybird123
I saw some of those videos when I was researching prior to doing my VVT job. I think it’s honestly all about individual level of risk acceptance? I don’t doubt it can be done a few different ways. When I was doing my car, my biggest fear was screwing up the timing, possibly without realizing it, then having catastrophic engine failure upon startup. That said, I did employ a ‘shortcut’ or two, including vise grips locked on cam to hold it in position (rather than employing another T60 at rear of cam as I believe the WIS instructs (iirc)
this is my biggest fear as well, screwing up timing unknowingly. You saying you used vice grips did I see your video on YouTube as well? Lol. There was someone who posted a video holding the cam with vice grips or something of that nature
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Old May 11, 2025 | 03:51 AM
  #37  
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2014 - W212.065 - E400 ( M276.820, 3 liter Turbo) RWD not Hybrid
Vice grip on un-used portion of the cam is also acceptable. But cylinder head cover ( which is also camshaft journal ) + injectors has to be removed too....which is the most troublesome job.
Each injector seal kit is US$35 and the injector seal kit tool combined ( 2 types ) is US$400 ish. I am speaking proper tool as per WIS.

In fact M271 engine cam hold down is a true cam LOCK DOWN tool on special portion of the camshaft for the very purpose, no azz T60 female on this camshaft.
But M271 cylinder head cover is plastic and injector at the side, very easy job and no need DIY sealan, it is all gasket and o-ring.....unlike M276 a real DIY gasket making using the reccomended loctite sealant.

============

On the subject of TL200 ( your ) questions :
I appreciate your help, I am not saying you do not know what you are talking about I am just trying to understand how some of these mechanics are changing it without opening the valve cover. This will be my first time doing any internal work on any vehicle, no local shop wants to do just the camshaft gears because they claim the gears and chains wear together, which may be true but I’m sure even the Mercedes dealership would change out just the cam gears since it’s such a common failure

"I am just trying to understand how some of these mechanics are changing it without opening the valve cover. "
Well, as I said, they are lazy and willing to take a chance because it is not their car and engine and they are able do less hours work for same money. Usually each job has hours billing list prepared by MB or in All Data.
China has lots of MB techy with good experience as the MB sold there are plenty, but a few on utube are simply bad examples.

"this will be my first time doing any internal work on any vehicle, no local shop wants to do just the camshaft gears because they claim the gears and chains wear together,"
No , timing chain is at least double the VVT life if not more.
VVT is a precision oil pressure maintaining device, hence it does not have to mechanically be broken, all it need to be is a tiny bit out of spec on its oil sealing surfaces and then you get
too much oil "leak", pressure maintaining capability is lost and then the VVT center vane starts dancing out of control and give you that tok-tok-tok sound.




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