Enjoy................




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The video image quality is very good.
Explanation is very good.
He follows proper WIS procedure

M276.8 turbo or M276.9 3.5NA is basically the same for VVT thingy....

 

Thanks for sharing, that AI thumbnail is... interesting...

 

thanks MS for bringing this video i thought i've watched all videos but it seems i miss that..

just watched it and he did very good job but im not sure in my case with recently changed tensioner how it's supposed to be removed and reused as everyone who do this job replace it straight away

also if camshaft tone disc or however is named is it possible to be checked without removing the cover if has been moved from the laser marking / if moved little bit it might not trigger any CEL if have some tolerance?

the step in the end he did with the diagnostic to run the water pump to bleed the system isn't the same if you start the car OR if you have the mod "pump to run all the time"?

 

To check all 4 camshaft tone wheel marking against, too bad camshaft must be removed.
It is not a big job though.
The big job for VVT is removing the cylinder head cover + injectors + HP fuel pump ( if bank 1 ) and vacuum puimp if Bank 2.

The techy only turned on the AFTERCOOLER circulation pump manually using a scanner.
That pump is a stand alone pump for aftercooler only and not for radiator.

Radiator has a smaller HVAC heater core assisting baby circuation pump.

M276 3.0 Turbo has two totally separated cooling system. Radiator for engine like non turbo M276 and aftercooler cooling system for air intake.
The turbocharger center bearing itself is coolant cooled by engine radiator, not by the aftercooler circuit.

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But I been wondering about this :
01. Can tone wheel shifted/misaligned on its own without having the VVT knocking issue first ?
02. Or overtime it will be misaligned simply from its own spinning inertia ? But all 4 cams will then can have the tone wheel misaligned....eventually.

VVT knocking is like mini impact driver, thus a lot of VVT which knocks, also have cam tone wheel aligned....so it seems.

 

I thought the mod is for the IC pump only to run always perhaps have same effect as manually turning from diagnostic tool the pump for bleed the system?

oh i guess it will be painful when i bring the car to the service and we have to remove respective cyl. head, i thought we might go short way to change VVT gear without cyl. head but the guy said he don't want that way instead to remove cyl.head

side question too: if you removing chain tensioner on bank 2 you must be 40* TDC but what about bank 1 on what * must be then because i remember last time when we changed the tensioners on 40* TDC on bank 2 was easy to remove but on Bank 1 the chain was so tight you can't do anything there and forgot on what * we moved to be able remove the tensioner there

also i saw in a video how tech guy install twice same tensioner - 2:52 - but they don't say on bank 1 on what * is also.. so does that means when you remove the tensioner you can measure it and if good you can press it back put the lock pin and install it again?

 

IC mod is when the relay of the aftercooler water pump is jumped at its 85/86 coil, thus permanently ON.
That simple.

It will help a bit for cold country guys, but of no use to tropical country guy like me.
Its only a process where instead of 44C ( if I remember correctly ) aftercooler coolant temperature where the pump is supposed to run, the mod made the pump
run 100% of the time.

When engine is already running cold>>warm>>hot and in tropical country like mine, my aftercooler water pump is 100% ON all the time already anyway.
The only way to make aftercooler become cooler, is to increase the actual size of the heat exchanger (radiator of aftercooler ), increase the coolant flow aka pump and use a dedicated or exta cooling fan
for the aftercooler heat exchanger. No free lunch.

Toyota GR Yaris uses water spray for its heat exchanger outer skin, extra cooling
Because indeed water is good, even spraying the outside skin of the heat exchanger.

=============

TIMING
The timing chain for Bank 1 and Bank 2 is the same.
So if you use the proper mark from main crank pulley to all 4 VVTs, all will be good.

The only difference is, if bank 1, the position of the VVT sprockets in respect to timing chain direction of pull is exhaust VVT----> Intake VVT
If Bank 2 , Intake VVT----> Exhaust VVT.

Our engine is clockwise crank rotation if seen from front bumper to engine.


This also maybe the reason if bank 1 INTAKE sprocket and thus VVT works harder., aside from HP fuel pump tagging along intake VVT camshaft.
If bank 2, perhaps the exhaust VVT will work harder in terms of its sprocket for the chain.
Chain does not PUSH, it can only PULL

Timing chain guide with the pusher knob for timing chain tensioner.




Bank 1 timing chain guide the one with the steel cage/body, has knob where the timing chain tensioner piston push it to make chain tight, item #100. Ignore item 105.
If you see the item #100, it 'pull" clockwise for intake VVT sprocket to make it tight.

BANK 2. See item #10, the same timing chain guide the one with the steel cage/body,
It pull COUNTERCLOCKWISE towards intake VVT sprocket ( chain teeth ).


TENSIONER ALREADY REMOVED.
Thus if Bank 1, if you want some play/room/wiggle, you must PULL out the chain which is at the RIGHT side of intake VVT.
Cheat a bit, use the crank pulley and spin a mere 5 degrees or so COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Its OK if that little.

If for Bank 2 , if you want some play/room/wiggle, you must PULL out the chain which is at the LEFT side of intake VVT.
Cheat a bit, use the crank pulley and spin a bit CLOCKWISE.

This is my guess..... Me never mess with my chain....yet.

 

thanks for your explanation
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i do remember when we set to 40* not sure if was before/after TDC so anyone read my comment don't take it for truth, only one of the banks i think 2 was fine to remove the tensioner but not same for bank 1 we will see when we go to this step again..

i will bear in mind your suggestions too

in the topic of reusing the tensioner do you think is safer when we remove it out and press it back again and put lock pin is this will not damage it? (i want to reuse it if possible just because i changed it recently as i mentioned to you few days ago)

 

U can re-use tensioner as long as it is within its length limit and can move free and easy
I think I once given you the dimension.
WIS has this info. ATTACHED

 

it seems i miss that, sorry MS and thank you for providing me the WIS again, does m276 engines in c43s have check valves installed (i read mixed opinions and now im not really sure and i did not checked when we were removed the tensioner..)

 

YES, we are blessed with check valve already installed.
Only oldie M276 first 1st or 2nd generation has TSB on it for check valve for chain tensioner.
This W212 section has TSB list sticky by the awesome Mr K, go and dig it out. I know mine is OK.

 

thank here too

 

Does that check valve need replacement eventually? not as bad as the one used in the vacuum pump right?

 

vacuum pump uses genuine plastic
Tensioner uses stainless seel

 

CRC has just officially added "a new" check-valve to our engine collection yesterday...


VVT oil control check-valve

comes with a filter to collect contaminants from "clean oil" supply.

Go figure where that stuff comes from! The 50¢ strainers are there for a reason...

 

pff.. if you're in process to clean your stuck rings and this contaminants can go inside in the vvt solenoid filter? can't go inside in the solenoid isnt't?

 

I think the oil contaminants found between main oil filter and VVT valve strainer are related to calcium sludge... same that plug up hydraulic valve lifters (excluding bypass-valve giveaways!)

That is oil cooked off inside hot heads passage ways during engine stopped heatsoak. Legacy API-SN formula.

 

how nice, is a shame how premium dealers allows this just to make more money, 1st you pay a bag with money to compliment yourself for your achievements and 2nd you have to learn how to protect your engine from guaranteed failure designed from dealer..

 

... that's about right!

Running powerful engines with limited oiling is part of that scheme.

 

Genuine Plastic ®

 

Reminds me of this: https://www.mercedes-benz.com/en/art...-superplastic/

 

Are we talking specifically about them using a type of oil (stocking only one type of oil to save money) that works both for diesel and petrol?

 

Sounds like a recipe for disaster

 

managed chaos is good for business

less oiling > less friction > less gasoline

More like:
Limited oiling >... > limited seal > limited performance > less gasoline!

 

Planned obsolescence but in a car world

 

in general yes, so frustrating...