I did notice in the catalog a separate parts page for 4matic front axle components vs. RWD cars, but I didn't see a separate page for suspension or steering components. To double check, are the parts you're recommending I start replacing these?

SB LINK,LEFT 2123202589
SB LINK,RIGHT 2123202689
STRUT MOUNTS 2123230020 (2x)
LOWER CONTROL ARMS 2123301911(2x) -seems to be same part for both sides?
CONTROL ARM FRONT RIGHT UPPER 2123303211 (Meyle vs. Rein?)
CONTROL ARM FRONT LEFT UPPER 2123303111 (Meyle vs. Rein?)
TIE ROD LEFT OUTSIDE 2124600105
TIE ROD RIGHT OUTSIDE 2124600205

SUPPORTING STRUT LEFT 2123330500 (Pelican Parts seems to be the only supplier that may even have this available if at all...needed?)
SUPPORTING STRUT RIGHT 2123330600 (Pelican Parts seems to be the only supplier that may even have this available if at all...needed?)

Thanks!!!

 

Looking at those parts, they don't have any bushings or ball joints involved--just solid pieces of metal. I don't think you need to replace those unless they got bent somehow.

 

The part #s themselves from Mercedes (at least the control arms) don't include the bushings, but when you input those part numbers into part suppliers like FCPEuro, ECS Tuning or AutohausAZ, they do have the bearings/bushings installed in them.

That being said, trying to determine what ones to replace out of my list, or if I should replace all of them.

 

You also might not want to mess with the tie rods unless your car can't be aligned or you have sloppy steering. If it's alignable and the steering is tight, you can probably skip those for now.

Also keep in mind that your front axles could be clapped out. Check the boots. If there is even a slight leak, and it happened a long time ago, you could get clicks and creaks as the ***** reposition when the wheel is turned, even at a stop.

But the list you had--especially the sway bar links and lower control arms--is a good place to start. Those two parts are cheap and very quick/easy to replace. They alone might get you there or 90% of the way.

 

That was my thought as far as parts to replace, the car only has 60k miles and drives fine otherwise, just has a loud noise when turning the wheel full lock when stationary, same noise both directions from both sides, and slight noise over bumps I've noticed, and "lazy" steering coming back to center like something is holding it up. Makes me think strut mount bearings are binding, and swaybar links or control arms need replacement. I do want to avoid tie-rod ends due to having to get an alignment as well as the alignment is good. I don't see why the car would not be able to be aligned though? Its only a 2016 with 60k on it.

 

If it's in alignment and drives OK, it should be "alignable". A car becomes unalignable if some components have too much slop to hold their position on the rack, or if the frame or something is bent...

 

If your steering has no freeplay and you're not planning on getting wheel alignment you can skip the tie-rods.

I never know what upper/lower control arms are in McPherson setup. At any rate the bad control arm is the forward one + the L shaped BJ to the second arm.

 

I can't actually find those two parts on those other sites. Nevertheless, if there are bushings involved but they don't come with the cast metal pieces from Mercedes, 100% you can buy and replace just the bushings.

 

Really? Well, here's the links haha, maybe this will help you or someone else out in the future:

Swaybar links:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/LF-2123202689

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/LF-2123202589

Strut mounts:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/80005408 (x2)


Lower control arms:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/LF-2123301911 (x2)


Upper control arms:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...num=2123303211 (REIN) -cheaper

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...num=2123303111 (REIN) -cheaper

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MY-2123303211 (Meyle)

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MY-2123303111 (Meyle)


Outer tie-rods:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...124600205~mey/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-pa...124600105~mey/


Upper supporting struts (optional/possibly unavailable):
https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=2123330500

https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=2123330600

 

Definitely don't have any alignment issues or play in the steering, just a feeling of "lazyness" when taking a turn and the wheel auto-rotates back to center, I have to like, "help" it. That and the type of noise and how the noise occurs is leading me more towards the strut tower mount bearings. Will likely start with replacing the strut tower mounts and the swaybar links and go from there.

 

To be clear, I was referring only to the ones that don't include bushings or ball joints:

You don't need to replace these chunks of metal unless they are bent somehow, which doesn't seem to be the case.

Sway bar links and "lower control arms" (P/N -2123301911--Mercedes calls them cross struts) are a good start. Your LCAs are trashed. They're trashed on all cars. There is a Chinese aftermarket one that, despite all evidence in previous history being to the contrary, actually seem better than OEM. It's made by Mevotech.

 

Hmm, RockAuto has those for like $50, I'd hate to install them and have them fail prematurely rather than going to with a trusted brand like Meyle.

Any other opinions on Mevotech on here?

 

From an AMG forum thread:

 

Carfax does not show a transmission service. Get that done now.

 

I use synchro design works lower front control arm bushings on my 63s wagon. Significant improvement over stock.

 

Trying to get any maintenance records from the original owner who sold it to the dealership who sold it to me, but currently dealing with a major sugar ant infestation in the car and haven't been able to drive it much. Once, God-willing that's taken care of (hoping by this weekend as the exterminator came a 2nd time Wednesday evening) I'm going to run by my local MB Dealer and see if they are willing to give me a Vehicle Master Inquiry to see if there are other maintenance records. Either way, I will likely do a transmission service. Fluid and filter I'm assuming?

 

Hey fellas! I am driving a w212 E550 4matic 2011 with the M273 engine. From the moment I bought the car I hear the creaking sound when steering on low speeds, I have made my girlfriend do full turns left and right while I am outside - I hear nothing, it is only heard in the inside. I pinged my mechanic and explained about the problem to him. He said he had the same issue and he replaced almost all the front of the car and the new owner is continuing with the search of the "cricket". So it is probably just an annoying plastic or something somewhere that is making this noise. Drive your car!

It is important to change differential fluids + transmission fluids every 40k miles
Engine oil every 6k miles.
Brake fluid every 12-3k miles or 2 years.
For the 4matics it is most important to replace the bearing of the left front axle every time you are changing diff and tranny oils!

Good luck, hope you are well and knock off those ants!

 

Update:
Just had a reputable local indy shop do the transmission service (supplied them with the kit from FCP Euro) and asked them to diagnose the front end noises. They said they could not replicate any clunks, clicks, etc. while driving at all, shook down/inspected all bushings, control arms, swaybar links, and other front suspension components; however, they were able to verify the very harsh whine/grinding type sound that happens if you turn the steering wheel full lock in either direction while the vehicle is on and stationary. They believe it is something internally wrong with the electronic steering rack. This is NOT what I wanted to hear as I cannot afford a repair of this magnitude and I just bought the car a month ago. I've read in a couple other places that "maxing out" the steering turn like this shouldn't be done as it puts unnecessary stress on the system and that several people have reported this type of noise on loaner vehicles, newer vehicles, etc. and its "normal"; the shop refused to inspect the vehicle due to this noise, however, so I really need to figure this out.

For reference again, 2016 E350 4matic with 62k miles.

 

Electric rack job is $8000 ...
NO stering rack likes to be held at max range .

A faulty rack will post live fault codes you can read under 5mn with a $120 scanner.

Be safe.

 

That's insane, I'd assume that's if you got a brand new part and had a dealer replace it though, Pelican Parts has the part for $4200 and I can't imagine it's that difficult of a job to replace, I'm sure a few hours max at any indy shop.

That being said, I've owned a lot of cars, mostly BMWs, a couple Audis, and I've never had any car make the type of noise this one does when turning the wheel full lock, it's shockingly loud honestly. But otherwise, the car seems to drive fine, the steering is a bit "lazy" to automatically come back to center after a 90+ degree turn I've noticed, idk if that's just how it is, if that's an indication the strut tower mount bearings need or placing, or an indication the rack is going bad?

I have Carly for MB and I don't have any codes for the rack and I've seen many YouTube videos of people sharing a cluster message that pops up about rack failure, never had that happen either, so I'm just praying it's something else.

 

... you're right about the strut bearings! The big metal race gets dry from evaporated grease and it's enclosed in genuine plastic that crack in pot-holes - Great item to swap.

I get my electric rack maxed out daily to back into my driveway - It is totally silent and 1-finger strong too.

One of the MBW member got a quote for a $26,000 harness job...

 

I don't really have any noise issues from the steering under normal driving conditions, even at full lock while doing like a u-turn, I just have this slight clunk noise/feel if I back out of a space and then put it into gear from the front end, like something is slightly loose (which is why I thought swaybar links or control arms, but according to the shop all the front suspension stuff is good?) and that horrific whine/grinding sound if I'm parked and turn it hard full lock either side.

$26k?! These dealerships should be shut down, that's just ridiculous.

 

used to be $10k... latest is $26k

Can it be that we're talking about your brake pads shifting during parking??

 

Good grief, that's insane.

Even if the brake pads were doing that (I've never heard of that happening before, I'm not sure how you'd even diagnose it, and it's not while parking, it's when reversing out of a space and then putting the car into gear the slight clunk is heard/felt) that definitely wouldn't explain the noise when hitting the full lock position of the steering when parked. It's almost like a grinding noise like if something metal was spinning and something else comes in contact with it, and I can sort of "bounce" the wheel off right or left to make the noise happen, if that makes sense.

 

Inspect the front shafts FREEPLAY in particular passenger side:
the axle CV-joint
the wheel bearings
the transfer case