Clicking/Creaking noise from front end while turning
Clicking/Creaking noise from front end while turning
Hey guys, I just picked up a 2016 E350 AMG Sport sedan this past weekend. My first Mercedes (have had several BMWs and a handful of Audis), I'm getting a noise similar to when CV axles go bad when turning near or at full-lock at low speed, forward or reverse, and also a creaking/clunking type noise when stationary with the car running when just turning the steering wheel back and forth. Sound seems to come from front on both sides. Car drives smooth otherwise. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Last edited by thewheelm4n; May 27, 2025 at 01:23 PM.
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Hey guys, I just picked up a 2016 E350 AMG Sport sedan this past weekend. My first Mercedes (have had several BMWs and a handful of Audis), I'm getting a noise similar to when CV axles go bad when turning near or at full-lock at low speed, forward or reverse, and also a creaking/clunking type noise when stationary with the car running when just turning the steering wheel back and forth. Sound seems to come from front on both sides. Car drives smooth otherwise. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
is this a 4Matic ??
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Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
then act soon !
Your front wheel bearing is getting upset by the axle shaft that's overworked by transfer case.
Meaning chewing the axle is a consequence of 4Matic sending too much power to that one wheel... That's a job for MB specialist that can fix the transfer case, not only replace axle shaft.
IDEA... get a complete transmission/transfer case + differential so you don't get overcharged for less work.
WHY...
Diff. runs with only one quart.
TranferC shares ATF...
The whole 4M system is overworked needs clean oil sooner than letter.
Your front wheel bearing is getting upset by the axle shaft that's overworked by transfer case.
Meaning chewing the axle is a consequence of 4Matic sending too much power to that one wheel... That's a job for MB specialist that can fix the transfer case, not only replace axle shaft.
IDEA... get a complete transmission/transfer case + differential so you don't get overcharged for less work.
WHY...
Diff. runs with only one quart.
TranferC shares ATF...
The whole 4M system is overworked needs clean oil sooner than letter.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 29, 2025 at 05:29 PM.
then act soon !
Your front wheel bearing is getting upset by the axle shaft that's overworked by transfer case.
Meaning chewing the axle is a consequence of 4Matic sending too much power to that one wheel... That's a job for MB specialist that can fix the transfer case, not only replace axle shaft.
IDEA... get a complete transmission/transfer case + differential so you don't get overcharged for less work.
WHY...
Diff. runs with only one quart.
TranferC shares ATF...
The whole 4M system is overworked needs clean oil sooner than letter.

Your front wheel bearing is getting upset by the axle shaft that's overworked by transfer case.
Meaning chewing the axle is a consequence of 4Matic sending too much power to that one wheel... That's a job for MB specialist that can fix the transfer case, not only replace axle shaft.
IDEA... get a complete transmission/transfer case + differential so you don't get overcharged for less work.
WHY...
Diff. runs with only one quart.
TranferC shares ATF...
The whole 4M system is overworked needs clean oil sooner than letter.

I also don't see how any of the things you mentioned being bad/needing replacement would cause noise on both sides in the front when just turning the steering wheel back and forth while parked. To me failing ball joints, swaybar mounts or at worst CV axles would be the culprit. I've had my fair share of wheel bearings go bad in Audis and BMWs, I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds and feels like and it's not this.
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,555
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Not to be like, combative here, but I find that scenario to be a bit hard to believe. The car only has 60k miles on it, there is absolutely no way it needs a transfer case and transmission. I'd bankrupt myself if I replaced everything you just mentioned. It would cost more than the car is worth.
I also don't see how any of the things you mentioned being bad/needing replacement would cause noise on both sides in the front when just turning the steering wheel back and forth while parked. To me failing ball joints, swaybar mounts or at worst CV axles would be the culprit. I've had my fair share of wheel bearings go bad in Audis and BMWs, I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds and feels like and it's not this.
I also don't see how any of the things you mentioned being bad/needing replacement would cause noise on both sides in the front when just turning the steering wheel back and forth while parked. To me failing ball joints, swaybar mounts or at worst CV axles would be the culprit. I've had my fair share of wheel bearings go bad in Audis and BMWs, I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds and feels like and it's not this.
Based on your description... I can't say better:
$250 diagnosis will reveal
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 29, 2025 at 06:37 PM.
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Out Of Control!!




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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Out Of Control!!




Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,555
Likes: 6,589
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
A little fresh oil service now, is gonna go a long way.
A lot of time basic service is not performed until too late... right now is a good time.
Okay, thank you! Being my first Mercedes, I did a lot of research into this particular model (my wife and I rented a 2015 through Turo last year and put about 1,500mi on it out west, was fantastic) and didn't find many issues associated with them, they seem to be a lot more reliable than the BMWs/Audis I've had (hoping that's true!), and since my 2014 BMW 328d M-sport wagon had a failed transfer case (with not many more miles than my E350 currently has) that resulted in me having to lemon-law the vehicle (there was a known TC failure on these from BMW, used car dealership just completely dropped the ball in fixing it properly), a similar sounding noise while turning now on my E350 has me super paranoid as I'm currently dealing with a MAJOR ant infestation in the vehicle (good exterminator came Wednesday night to treat the vehicle, praying it worked) and trying to get the out-of-state dealership to pay for it as they knew about it beforehand has been like pulling teeth so far. Owned the car for less than a week. Then will have to get the TC service done and try to make them pay for that as they knew about both these issues on the lot before I signed the paperwork. Used car dealerships...*sigh*
Okay, thank you! Being my first Mercedes, I did a lot of research into this particular model (my wife and I rented a 2015 through Turo last year and put about 1,500mi on it out west, was fantastic) and didn't find many issues associated with them, they seem to be a lot more reliable than the BMWs/Audis I've had (hoping that's true!), and since my 2014 BMW 328d M-sport wagon had a failed transfer case (with not many more miles than my E350 currently has) that resulted in me having to lemon-law the vehicle (there was a known TC failure on these from BMW, used car dealership just completely dropped the ball in fixing it properly), a similar sounding noise while turning now on my E350 has me super paranoid as I'm currently dealing with a MAJOR ant infestation in the vehicle (good exterminator came Wednesday night to treat the vehicle, praying it worked) and trying to get the out-of-state dealership to pay for it as they knew about it beforehand has been like pulling teeth so far. Owned the car for less than a week. Then will have to get the TC service done and try to make them pay for that as they knew about both these issues on the lot before I signed the paperwork. Used car dealerships...*sigh*
You have a reliable chassis (W212) and reliable engine (M276), M276 is one of MB's post reliable engine it seems so you made a good decision, you just need to make sure to keep up with maintenance and be proactive with preventative maintenance, another thing is, the previous owner must not abuse or neglect maintenance, that is important as well.
You have a reliable chassis (W212) and reliable engine (M276), M276 is one of MB's post reliable engine it seems so you made a good decision, you just need to make sure to keep up with maintenance and be proactive with preventative maintenance, another thing is, the previous owner must not abuse or neglect maintenance, that is important as well.
That's good to know, thank you. I'm no stranger to maintenance on German cars coming from a long line of BMWs. The dealership told me the original owner of the car was a friend and sold it to them, in turn they ended up selling it to me, so it *sounds* like its a "1-owner vehicle". The Carfax is sparse of really any maintenance history though, I will attach it here if anyone wishes to peruse it. If I went to my local Mercedes dealer, would they be able to pull up the maintenance history from the VIN or by scanning the key (I was able to do this with E82/E90/F31 BMWs I've had)? Especially having this situation, would really like to know where I sit with that to know what I need to do now that I own it for maintenance, if anything. Thanks!
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W212 E63S Wagon - GSL580 - E63 - E350 - C300
I spent a TON of money trying to find a click - while turning. I mean, we were playing parts canon. The click was coming from a cracked rim.....
Having said that, the carfax does show there was a wheel repair, but I don't know if that'd be causing my issue; I'm getting "clicking" in forward and reverse while turning at near-to-full lock at low speeds, and also getting a "clunk/creaking" sort of noise just sitting there stationary when turning the steering wheel back and forth. Noises are coming from both sides equally.
When you hear hoofbeats, think horses...
That said. I'm currently chasing a similar click/clunk while turning (occasionally) and over slow bumps in my '11 E550. Not cracked rim (brand new wheels, unrelated). Bearings, bushings, and tie rods all seem good and tight. The shop the PO had work done at noticed the steering rack was missing a bolt or something; didn't fix it. The front airmatic struts were just replaced; not it. I noticed the DS half shaft had a bit of play on the outer CV that would clunk a bit, so replaced that; not it. Differential was resealed due to a seep; nothing there. It won't reproduce unless driving, and may even require a lower (firmer?) suspension setting. I've got one more desperate plan to poke around at all the hoses and lines to see if something is just flopping around somehow... I'm about to buy a set of chassis ears...
That said. I'm currently chasing a similar click/clunk while turning (occasionally) and over slow bumps in my '11 E550. Not cracked rim (brand new wheels, unrelated). Bearings, bushings, and tie rods all seem good and tight. The shop the PO had work done at noticed the steering rack was missing a bolt or something; didn't fix it. The front airmatic struts were just replaced; not it. I noticed the DS half shaft had a bit of play on the outer CV that would clunk a bit, so replaced that; not it. Differential was resealed due to a seep; nothing there. It won't reproduce unless driving, and may even require a lower (firmer?) suspension setting. I've got one more desperate plan to poke around at all the hoses and lines to see if something is just flopping around somehow... I'm about to buy a set of chassis ears...
Last edited by spectre6000; May 30, 2025 at 10:48 AM.
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2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4XE, 2012 E550 4Matic
I had an issue just resolve itself on my car that was kind of similar. Only when turning at near or full lock at low speed (turning into the driveway, reversing out of a parking spot, etc.) I would get this resistance/dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Felt like making a turn in 4 low in a 4 wheel drive vehicle. Never got worse, never showed up during normal speed driving. My local indy mechanic said it was probably the planetary gear set or transfer case and I should bring it in (my wallet was dreading that).
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
Last edited by MDPensfan; May 30, 2025 at 01:24 PM.
I had an issue just resolve itself on my car that was kind of similar. Only when turning at near or full lock at low speed (turning into the driveway, reversing out of a parking spot, etc.) I would get this resistance/dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Felt like making a turn in 4 low in a 4 wheel drive vehicle. Never got worse, never showed up during normal speed driving. My local indy mechanic said it was probably the planetary gear set or transfer case and I should bring it in (my wallet was dreading that).
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
I had an issue just resolve itself on my car that was kind of similar. Only when turning at near or full lock at low speed (turning into the driveway, reversing out of a parking spot, etc.) I would get this resistance/dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Felt like making a turn in 4 low in a 4 wheel drive vehicle. Never got worse, never showed up during normal speed driving. My local indy mechanic said it was probably the planetary gear set or transfer case and I should bring it in (my wallet was dreading that).
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
Anyways, I had it on the road for a pretty decent drive at Beltway speeds for about an hour a couple of days ago. For a few miles I felt a slight resistance through the steering wheel, then it went away. Went to back into my driveway and no longer felt that dragging sensation through the steering wheel. Drive it again the next day, no issue. So maybe enough of the clutch disc material wore away, or something was binding and just had to heat up enough to break free. Not sure if you've only done city driving on your car since you got it, but taking it for a drive on the Interstate could be worth a shot.
I've barely driven it other than the 250mi or so home from the dealership in NJ to my home in Upstate NY, which was basically all highway, as the car has an ant infestation so insane I cannot even describe it. Bought it last Saturday and its been sitting in the lot next to my apt building ever since. Exterminator came Wednesday evening, haven't even had time to unlock the car to see if what he did worked. However, the noise/sensation/issue you described is basically what I have going on, except with the added issue that if I'm just sitting stationary and turn the wheel to the right or left, I get a clunk/creaking sound from both sides in the front. That puzzles me as I don't see how a transfer case, cv axle, front driveshaft or transmission problem would cause that, seems steering/suspension-related to me.
Thoughts?
Last edited by thewheelm4n; May 30, 2025 at 01:37 PM.


