Hi !
I have removed the solenoid that reduces oil pressure on motor when rpm below 2000, and installed blanking plug, since the soleniod is removed i get error code P06DA13.
Is it possible to "Inhibit" or remove this component from system ?
Hi !
I have removed the solenoid that reduces oil pressure on motor when rpm below 2000, and installed blanking plug, since the soleniod is removed i get error code P06DA13.
Is it possible to "Inhibit" or remove this component from system ?
Regards:
Jobba
You are searching for "dummy solenoid" to prevent fault P06DA13.
You should read this threadabout this experiment plus related links for optional replacement coil.
The stock oil pessure transition is 3500.Rpm not 2000.Rpm.
Hi !
Error code will be there alvays as the solenoid is physically removed and unplugged, i was just thinking if it would be possible to inhibit or get rid of the error code.
Read the official documentation about the role of this solenoid and you will be more comfortable, confident, etc
This will limit the pressure only when the temperature is low, for helping the engine to reach the working temperature faster. Of course if you raise the rpm over 3,5K when the engine is cold, the valve will open to prevent over heating....but this has nothing to do with the stories from the mentioned thread.
The folklore about "Mercedes Engineering is corrupt or stupid" and the fact that someone state bla or bla without any chance of reading anything else that is already written by the same folklorist, it's obsolete...no need to add that nobody in the EU disable the valve nor use lifetime solutions.
Hi !
Error code will be there alvays as the solenoid is physically removed and unplugged, i was just thinking if it would be possible to inhibit or get rid of the error code.
Jobba
The code will be registered but ECU has no issue with it being actively faulted.
-- I don't have a dummy solenoid installed.
-- This fault still gets classified as being "fault free" for "OBDII Mode" reports during official state inspections.
So using an optional "dummy coil" is useful to hide fault from service technicians.
Keep all wires from contacting the nearby crank pulley.
Read the official documentation about the role of this solenoid and you will be more comfortable, confident, etc
This will limit the pressure only when the temperature is low, for helping the engine to reach the working temperature faster. Of course if you raise the rpm over 3,5K when the engine is cold, the valve will open to prevent over heating....but this has nothing to do with the stories from the mentioned thread.
The folklore about "Mercedes Engineering is corrupt or stupid" and the fact that someone state bla or bla without any chance of reading anything else that is already written by the same folklorist, it's obsolete...no need to add that nobody in the EU disable the valve nor use lifetime solutions.
You know how to profit illegally from cracked encryption keys. Keep your SCAMS to your own threads.
DON'T MIND ME so I reciprocate
Don't mess with forum members including myself.
I do not deal with you nor your activities.
You're building a trail of evidences... Administrators and legal authorities are the enforcers.
Some of us had been warned about this nut-case... case confirmed ✌️
> IN FACT... Oil pressure solenoid has nothing to do with temperature control.
You praise the only hacker here - this is a crime too - the one who stole my website mbretrofit.com. Is quite funny to blame me being so stupid to post myself, about me the elucrubations being a hacker.
You are searching for "dummy solenoid" to prevent fault P06DA13.
You should read this threadabout this experiment plus related links for optional replacement coil.
The stock oil pessure transition is 3500.Rpm not 2000.Rpm.
Do you have the part number for the dummy solenoid - E350? Most of the information I come across is for the Sprinter Van.
Do you have the part number for the dummy solenoid - E350? Most of the information I come across is for the Sprinter Van.
Hi !
I have the OM651.924 engine, not sure if it is the same part number.
I have swapped the engine in my car and on the new engine the blind plug was alredy installed, so i dont have the part.no.
This question is best answered by someone who can state: "I know my [diesel] engine better than you".
As soon as we say anything somebody will step forward with unrelated contradictions.
The only reasons to disable low oil pressure are to remove pistons heat AND position hydraulic Camshafts reliably. This is not possible using stock oil viscosity.
The stock setup causes the hot/cold moodyness. AccumulatedHeat Is Used To Derate Engine Response... did you notice this difference??
My recommendation would be to use an effective method to experiment making progress.
> If you can recognize poor driveability :
your engine runs HOT invariably in winter
your throttle is SPONGY/laggy
your transmission BANGS 5th gear at 30mph
your chassis runs HEAVY unresponsive
Without issues, don't change a thing!
YOUR troubleshooting will help YOU eliminate root-causes without anyone getting pissy in the process.
It is simple: seek to disable unwanted chaos with STABLE environment:
Temps
Pressure
Visvosity
Cyl. Timings
chassis Voltage
Pay close attention to pistons accumulating extreme heat braking down cheap plastics & rubbers with heat soaks...
The best time engine can circulate HEAT out is:
when it is being produced by pistons
not at engine idle
not after engine stop
Bottom line is accumulating pistons HEAT leads to shaky unbalanced cyls. to distress rod bearings.
Removing pistons HEAT is better than accumulating extreme HEAT to sludge oil into drafty rings...
Its always been, and will always be, part of owning a car (or plane, or boat, ....)
Remember when you had to replace that rusted exhaust several times on your car ? Stainless steel now. It put alot of muffler shops out of business.
How about when the Fords use to rust right through is less than 5 years ! That was a sight to see ! A door with a hole right through it. ))
Personally, I've had one of my V8 BMW's plastic timing chain guide crumble; but that was after 400,000 km (248,000+ miles)
This question is best answered by someone who can state: "I know my [diesel] engine better than you".
As soon as we say anything somebody will step forward with unrelated contradictions.
The only reasons to disable low oil pressure are to remove pistons heat AND position hydraulic Camshafts reliably. This is not possible using stock oil viscosity.
The stock setup causes the hot/cold moodyness. AccumulatedHeat Is Used To Derate Engine Response... did you notice this difference??
My recommendation would be to use an effective method to experiment making progress.
> If you can recognize poor driveability :
your engine runs HOT invariably in winter
your throttle is SPONGY/laggy
your transmission BANGS 5th gear at 30mph
your chassis runs HEAVY unresponsive
Without issues, don't change a thing!
YOUR troubleshooting will help YOU eliminate root-causes without anyone getting pissy in the process.
It is simple: seek to disable unwanted chaos with STABLE environment:
Temps
Pressure
Visvosity
Cyl. Timings
chassis Voltage
Pay close attention to pistons accumulating extreme heat braking down cheap plastics & rubbers with heat soaks...
The best time engine can circulate HEAT out is:
when it is being produced by pistons
not at engine idle
not after engine stop
Bottom line is accumulating pistons HEAT leads to shaky unbalanced cyls. to distress rod bearings.
Removing pistons HEAT is better than accumulating extreme HEAT to sludge oil into drafty rings...
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
There are real reasons for used luxury cars to be bargain priced...
No surprise these great cars were engineered to delivers what we are familiar with.
I like my W212 enough that I am debugging its systems with TLC & simple solutions.
"Damn the torpedoes" is expensive!!
No point in ignoring reality that's simple to deal with.
Use your control to ENJOY EASY PROGRESS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by - Mover -
Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance.
Its always been, and will always be, part of owning a car (or plane, or boat, ....)
Remember when you had to replace that rusted exhaust several times on your car ? Stainless steel now. It put alot of muffler shops out of business.
How about when the Fords use to rust right through is less than 5 years ! That was a sight to see ! A door with a hole right through it. ))
Personally, I've had one of my V8 BMW's plastic timing chain guide crumble; but that was after 400,000 km (248,000+ miles)
Nothing lasts forever (but the earth and sky). 😉
You take care of the car, it will take care of you. Purr Purr : )
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
))
