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@CaliBenzDriver I agree with Creader2.0. Look up a YT video on start-up. the factory video is ok, but 3rd party is more detailed. You may have to update the MB specific software. I have this one and I think I was allowed one make included, others you pay for. Fully charge the scanner before you start. I suggest (as Cali mentioned) do a scan, create a report, email the report to yourself, check that you can save it and print it on your PC (for example). First scan with many 'errors' may take 10-15 minutes. once this history is established, you can 'clear' the codes (if appropriate to do so at this stage). Do what's needed (change parts, test car, run car, etc...) Now, scan, repeat and rinse. :-) With printout number 2, you can compare 'errors' with side-by-side hardcopies. GLWRepair
[QUOTE=ColonelKlink;9269097]@CaliBenzDriver I agree with Creader2.0. Look up a YT video on start-up. the factory video is ok, but 3rd party is more detailed. You may have to update the MB specific software. I have this one and I think I was allowed one make included, others you pay for.
correct. mine is MB/Maybach specific. My gf has a Lexus, so I may pay the $3.99/month to scan her vehicle
I’ll hopefully get this done tonight and then be able to use this new bad boy
OK, so I reinstalled the EIS after having those pin soldered and the curse starts back up again with the same warning saying not to shift everything seems the same which I’m glad I don’t have to replace the EIS.
I then scanned the computer and found a whole bunch of warning codes related to low-voltage. I have included the PDF scan from the launch scandal below.
A few things already didn’t work such as the power tailgate due to exterior body damage, the seat bladders is not inflating, the TPS module giving a TPMS imperative warning, as well as a cylinder 4 misfire.
I had also been previously told that the flap for the intake manifold was not working. I need to have my battery charged up so I don’t know if I need to buy a trickle charger or if I can go to O’Reilly and either have them charge or replace the battery under warranty. It’s looking more and more like a wiring issue, but let me know what you guys think..
let me see .. a true boat load of faults BUT [TCM + ISM] nicely report NO problem.
Oddly the EZS is still loaded with faults ?
Did you disconnect batteries while EZS was worked on, yes?
Did you clear faults after powering up the chasis, no??
Yes, I disconnected the main battery, but I may have forgotten to disconnect the auxiliary :/
And yes, I cleared all the fault codes and re-ran the scan. I’m pretty sure my main engine battery is it like 50% by now. I’m going to Walmart here in a little bit to get a charger. Also, I should’ve mentioned this sooner, but until after the shifting issue started, had a remote battery disconnect on my vehicle to keep the electric fan from turning on while my vehicle was off and killing my battery. My engine wouldn’t start at one point, then after disconnecting it completely my vehicle started right up no problem. I’m hoping I didn’t do permanent damage to one of these fuse boxes or Sam.
Yes, I disconnected the main battery, but I may have forgotten to disconnect the auxiliary :/
And yes, I cleared all the fault codes and re-ran the scan. I’m pretty sure my main engine battery is it like 50% by now. I’m going to Walmart here in a little bit to get a charger. Also, I should’ve mentioned this sooner, but until after the shifting issue started, had a remote battery disconnect on my vehicle to keep the electric fan from turning on while my vehicle was off and killing my battery. My engine wouldn’t start at one point, then after disconnecting it completely my vehicle started right up no problem. I’m hoping I didn’t do permanent damage to one of these fuse boxes or Sam.
I see... your AUX likely went flat to makeup power for the missing MAIN Battery.
You need to charge both batteries.
Clear faults rescan.
>> This is also likely to circle back to troubleshooting your main fan spinning non-stop. (Failed A/C switch or ECU?).
This many 40+ live faults is rare occurrence.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 4, 2026 at 10:09 PM.
.... & confirmed the pressure is up there in the 60Psi range too?
I worked for a transport company at the time and had it replaced by one of the technicians that works on large motor coaches and he did the job for me and I gave him the specs for my vehicles climate control system. Whether he did it or not is beyond me, but I believe that’s the pressure I told him
I worked for a transport company at the time and had it replaced by one of the technicians that works on large motor coaches and he did the job for me and I gave him the specs for my vehicles climate control system. Whether he did it or not is beyond me, but I believe that’s the pressure I told him
What's your latest scan report after batteries disconnect + clearing rogue faults?
You need to find out why so many of your CAN modules are down...
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 5, 2026 at 09:06 AM.
What's your latest scan report after batteries disconnect + clearing rogue faults?
You need to find out why so many of your CAN modules are down...
i’m about to reinstall both batteries now. The Agm starter battery was around 30% charged, but when I hooked up the auxiliary battery to the charger it read float (FLO) which seems to indicate that it was already fully charged?
With auxiliary battery connected With auxiliary battery connected Fuse Connected to auxiliary battery Fuse Connected to auxiliary battery
Last edited by johnfranciscog; Mar 5, 2026 at 02:27 PM.
The charging circuit is protected by a small fuse near AUX Batt. I think around 7.5A in Dark Red color.
The load side circuit is protected by a much bigger in-line fuse (70 to 100A).
You should try to keep your batteries charged full to minimize low-voltage glitches during crank. It bugs the snut out of CAN modules.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 5, 2026 at 06:11 PM.
The charging circuit is protected by a small fuse near AUX Batt. I think around 7.5A in Dark Red color.
The load side circuit is protected by a much bigger in-line fuse (70 to 100A).
You should try to keep your batteries charged full to minimize low-voltage glitches during crank. It bugs the snut out of CAN modules.
OK, so I have a report for both when the engine was on and the ignition on position two after clearing the fault codes. What a difference having fully charged batteries makes.
It looks like there’s definitely an issue with the ISM, but the EIS/EZS seems fine, which is a relief!
The tailgate is messed up due to the body damage on the driver side quarter panel.
The multi contour driver seat probably needs new bladders.
but what has me very excited is the temperature/humidity sensor warning for the AC that could be the reason my vehicles fan kicking on after shut off, killing my batteries while parked.
Let me know what you think possible ways to get my vehicle to shift. Thank you
Now the top concerns look like ISM + ESP + fan/drain by parking
The good news is your ISM is likely A-ok...
false troubles were triggered by "AUX power without MAIN" on-line.
Simply go in the ISM module menu to clear it's fault !
Use you beefy "Charger-power supply" to maintain your Main power higher than 12.6V under load.
Then you can deal with the fault of ESP module and your sleepless fan...
Now the top concerns look like ISM + ESP + fan/drain by parking
The good news is your ISM is likely A-ok...
false troubles were triggered by "AUX power without MAIN" on-line.
Simply go in the ISM module menu to clear it's fault !
Use you beefy "Charger-power supply" to maintain your Main power higher than 12.6V under load.
Then you can deal with the fault of ESP module and your sleepless fan...
Well, I cleared the fault already and it came right back. Do you still think the ISM is OK?
Well, I cleared the fault already and it came right back.
Do you still think the ISM is OK?
I hope for you it is: $$$$
Right now ISM is doing its normal job in safety mode because it has sensed a battery power failure - Go in the module and read data and fault: see what it says.
Your scanner is paying for itself when you use it.
ISM does have a cycle count - If its been upset too many times by low voltage it locks up like an oyster.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 5, 2026 at 10:04 PM.
Right now ISM is doing its normal job in safety mode because it has sensed a battery power failure - Go in the module and read data and fault: see what it says.
Your scanner is paying for itself when you use it.
ISM does have a cycle count - If its been upset too many times by low voltage it locks up like an oyster.
🤞
give me a couple minutes. I’ll run inside and get my scanner. Report back soon.
Now the top concerns look like ISM + ESP + fan/drain by parking
The good news is your ISM is likely A-ok...
false troubles were triggered by "AUX power without MAIN" on-line.
Simply go in the ISM module menu to clear it's fault !
Use you beefy "Charger-power supply" to maintain your Main power higher than 12.6V under load.
Then you can deal with the fault of ESP module and your sleepless fan...
Not to change the subject, but where is AC temperature and humidity sensor located? I’m assuming it’s located in the passenger foot well but I don’t know exactly where….
Not to change the subject, but where is AC temperature and humidity sensor located? I’m assuming it’s located in the passenger foot well but I don’t know exactly where….
The AAC Module has MANY temp sensors in each vent, on the evaporator coil and in the cabin using tiny fans in the OCP using remote networking.
In addition the A/C condenser has a pressure sensor that ECU reads to decide if it should overcool the engine. This sensor must read in range near 60Psi.
Use the scanner to work out the module faults... look at live data the exact way the system sees everything.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 5, 2026 at 10:33 PM.
Right now ISM is doing its normal job in safety mode because it has sensed a battery power failure - Go in the module and read data and fault: see what it says.
Your scanner is paying for itself when you use it.
ISM does have a cycle count - If its been upset too many times by low voltage it locks up like an oyster.
🤞
I just cleared the code. What should I do next? Also, there’s a few different menus as far as the data stream and running an actuation test….
