Hey everyone,

I need to replace the intake manifold on my 2011 E350 station wagon. I’ve got a DTC 0521 (charge movement flap malfunction, bank 1). I was also told by a very experienced technician at a Mercedes dealership that the flap was stuck. I currently have over 267,000 miles on my engine on the original intake manifold and I think replacing the entire assembly is preferable to fixing linkages.

I’m weighing two Amazon options. First is the FORRYE manifold for $188, with 4.5 stars from 180 reviews.

https://a.co/d/07VOGkQV

The other is from Auto Parts Prodigy, an Amazon Choice, which replaces OE 2721402401.

https://a.co/d/0dLjfSw6

Both have strong reviews and are far cheaper than OEM. I’ll still use genuine gaskets.

Anyone have thoughts on either of these? Would you trust one over the other?

 

Well, you know you can get the Pierburg for $800 or whatever and get another 270,000 miles out of the intake manifold.

The "auto parts prodigy" has 14% 1-star reviews.

The furry one has surprisingly good reviews and if you don't plan to get another 270k miles out of your car, it might be worth the gamble.

 

I too wouldn't (and didn't when I needed to do it) risk it. RockAuto has the Pierburg for a good price, which is identical to the original one. How often do you replace the oil separator centrifuge? If you haven't, it is time.

 

I replaced my centrifuge cover and cam plugs (only the 2 smaller ones) less than 800 miles ago. However, I did use an aluminum unit that required rtv sealant as the gasket unlike the usual plastic.

 

Why did you opt for the aluminum unit? I don't think it would be any better or worse honestly. The separator drip pan (2730100162) sometimes gets wobbly and it is a good idea to replace it at some point as well. Of note, the bolt in the middle is reverse threaded.

 

no reason in particular. I just thought it to looked kind of cool and different. The kit which included the cam plugs, came with a small tube of RTV sealant, which I also used on the cam plugs as well, in addition to the centrifuge cover.

After doing a little research, I may install an oil catch can as well. Once I replaced everything, I sprayed brake cleaner to get rid of any oil residue so if there is a leak still present somewhere I’ll be able to tell where it’s coming from.

You’re right I probably will end up doing the drip pan eventually as well as the other cover by cylinder 4 which I’m not sure it’s been replaced or not.

 

With 240000 miles on mine I’m thinking of replacing it with a Forrie and rebuilding the original in my spare time as a back up. I know a guy that put in a Forrie in his m272 and last time I heard he is happy with it.

also someone with that intake in an SLK
https://www.slkworld.com/threads/any...?nested_view=1

 

Thank you for sharing this. So I’m not the only one that’s amazed by the incredibly low price and the fact that it has so many positive reviews on Amazon.

Trust me, I’m not one to buy something just because it’s the cheapest I’ve learned my lesson with URO and MCM branded parts and know that cheaper is not always better. I installed an MCM window regulator in a W116 300SD I used to own and it was absolute junk!

And on the other hand, I recently replaced my ISM with an aftermarket Chinese unit less than $200and it’s working great so far. At $190 I think this is a damn problem. I’m willing to make with a 30 day Amazon return policy.

I should have all parts there by Monday, but this is what I have so far…

 

To me the original intake from FCP with shipping, taxes and duties with lifetime warranty would be for sure over $1100 Canadian ( local it is higher and no lifetime warranty) whereas Forrie is a little over $300. My actuator broke sometime just before 200000 miles, if the aftermarket can get me to 300k or even 350k miles I would be happy, at that point I would likely retire her.

Was also thinking of doing a smoke test before and after replacement

 

I heard this as well about the drip pan wobble, I replaced my drip pan not too long ago, but the seal from the tray around the metal pan tube looked to be tight when I took them apart. I have pics of the tear down in this thread at the end.

https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...replace-2.html