Hi guys, on my 2019 e220d Benz suddenly the trunk’s door stopped working just like that. I haven’t done anything which could damage the door. First time I noticed the truck door isn’t fully closed was last week during first snow here and my wife just was opened the truck to take her luggage and pressed the key on door for automatic closing. Because she is women, she didn’t look the door when she locked the car and after an hour I came home and saw that the trunk isn’t completely closed. During this one hour the car was outside on snow, after that I moved the car in garage. I closed the trunk and no problem. Until today that the trunk just don’t close completely and I have to use physical power to close the last inch. So in general closing is working when I press the key on trunk door, or key fob or the button on drivers door. But only until one moment. The last inch which is controlled by soft close pump/ mechanism. In our local mb club we have xentry diagnostics but I will have to wait one week to see with them and check the car. Can someone tell me what to expect, what are the main problems with this type of issue? I found this thread, but it’s very old, does the mechanisms principle’s are the same on my w213 ?
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-r230/355467-have-trunk-soft-close-trunk-assist-problems-here-how-fix-diy.html

edit: the car is parked mostly in heated garage, so outside atmosphere doesn’t use forces on car. And the locking mechanism is working completely. The hatch is locking just fine, so I think that the problem is not there. Any suggestions?

p. S. The car has only 51 000 Km on, so it’s not the age too…

 

Take it to the dealer for repairs. I had a similar occurrence with the driver's soft close door. A servo that pulls the door tight failed.

 

yeah, but our dealer is closed now (******* covid) and secondly I like to repair my MBs my own.

 

As i found, the problem is coming from electrical motor which closes the last 1/2 inch and it has a metal cord like W212's. But it's not located on locking mech. but somewhere else in the trunk department. Can someone tell me the part number of this motor and a scheme of it's location.

 

See attachment for part #s here is drive unit.

 

Yeah, this is like my problem. But on scheme it's on T model, mine is sedan (if there is a difference) but my search about this issue, the problem is in the metal cord.

If there is no difference between Sedan and T-model, so i will try to fix it.

 

Revisit previous post.

 

Thanks mate, i will update a video later with the problem, but i'm pretty sure where the problem is. Either the cord or the el. drive motor.

 

Hi again. I’ve took a video of tailgate problem. I will try to fix it this week, but I’m updating for future users. https://youtu.be/ERuA772teqE
For now I’m not 100% sure where is the problem. I will post updates.

 

it looks like the stationary latch is not catching/sensing the trunk lid or is not moving down afterwards to close the trunk tightly.

It could be the stationary latch assembly or its controller module.

Take a closer look for a chance the latch got in a closed position while the lid was opened... it may be jammed shut.
👀

 

Yes, it's not moving down/ last 1/2 inch/ stays open.
I've checked the latch on trunk, but it's not stuck. But i will apply a lubricant ( any idea what kind of lubricant should i use on latches ?), just in case.
I suppose it may be the controller module (small black box in trunk, where the spare tire must be). The pic is not on my car, but this weekend i will check it on my car. May be it's the cord. By stationary latch, you mean the latch on rear bumper (on the picture) or the latch which is on trunk ?

 

You can use any of your favorite spray grease on the A mechanical latch.
The B latch controller pulls on the release cable. It also needs lube. This is child-play built for easy service.


trunk latch

Lube is a nice gesture but you may need to figure out exactly why the latch system has stopped interacting with your lid.
I lubed mine before it had a chance to quit.

While you have your dirty hands on... also lube the trunk lid pull-down mechanism. In the end it will be way smoother and quieter too.

 

Okay, i will lube them both, only to get some time alone with my car. But before to lube it, i will check it with Star Diag., but earliest available slot for my car in service shop is this Friday, and it's not 100% sure .

By pull-down mechanism, you mean the drive unit which is located on left side in the trunk, right? Like this on attached pic.?

 

Star diag will help you figure what's happening with the latch. I wonder how the latch gets triggered to pull down or release the lid.

I sort of recall seeing how the lid travel is closely measured... it could be the [Lid + Latch] get synchronized by a learning procedure - Hopefully you'll tell us a bit more after using Star.
​​​​​​

 

Yes, before anything else, i will check it with Star. After that i spray it with grease and will try to move it on hand, if it's stuck.
I will try to make a video of what's happen when the latch is pulling the lid from inside and with removed plastic covers.
If it has something with sync or new learning procedure . i will make a reset with Star on the module and will try it again.
Of course i will write back after i get results with new data

 

Hi again, i couldn't wait my mech. to check the car with Star so i tried to figure out what's wrong with this latch and to add some pictures. As @CaliBenzDriver suggested, the problem is located in mechanism with part number A204 750 0060 , which is made by Hella in Romania:



As you can see this mechanism is very often used in other models (W204,W212,S212,X253, W166 and others). So it's very easy to find it second hand and it's not expensive at all (~70-80$) and 20 min of your time to change it. If this 70-80$ are too much for you, you can change only the rotor (the rotor is used in: Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Opel, Lexus, VW, Mitsubishi, Ford, Range Rover, Kia, Hyundai, Mazda, Subaru and other car brands...) inside for 2-25$ from Aliexpress. If you are not sure that the rotor is dead, you can wire directly the rotor with battery with 12v to check it, just for case. Here is a picture whats inside of it:


Three simple plastic wheels + one rotor (and a lot of grease ).

The interesting part is what caused the burn of the rotor. When i started to disassemble the mechanism, i barely pulled up (just a few mm) the biggest (first) white wheel up to disconnect it, and suddenly the whole mechanism + cord + the lock on bumper, clicked very noisy and almost to pinch my other hand which was on the locker on bumper. So i can conclude that there was a stuck on the locker on the bumer:


And this jam caused the burning of the rotor, which is very very simple rotor. May be if i can find it in my daughter's toys
So my advise is to maintain clear and greased the locker on the bumper and regularly to check it for dust to avoid this issue.

 

THANK YOU FOR THE TUTORIAL.
I got the same prblm and by the end I found almost the some rotor in a toy ! I exchanged and it worked !

 

Hi, did you identify the location of the fuse and the fuse number for this part?