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How do I get in on this class action lawsuit???! 2014 G550 that has always lived in dry climates,
100% MB dealer maintained, and always garaged. 76k miles. I pulled the passenger side rocker trim off and discovered this:
Take it in and see what they say. Are you original owner?
Common place for rust. I had it here at 60k miles.
Talk to MBUSA. They might help. Be sure to inspect your truck top to bottom for any more rust. If they do agree to repair it, they will only do so once.
If you’d like I can walk you through how to rust proof the underside of this metal to prevent further corrosion.
Originally Posted by leftylefty
How do I get in on this class action lawsuit???! 2014 G550 that has always lived in dry climates,
100% MB dealer maintained, and always garaged. 76k miles. I pulled the passenger side rocker trim off and discovered this:
I'm looking at a 2003 G500 with 58k on it in Chicagoland. The black lower rocker pieces look misshaped a bit on the ends and there is some rust showing up where the end caps are. I did not remove them to inspect behind, but my visual inspection did not show any corrosion that I could see. Actually, there isn't any corrosion on the vehicle except the typical stuff underneath. If I purchase it, I think the first thing I would do is take it to my MB body shop, have them remove the lower rocker pieces, check for any issues behind them, and replace with new. I have seen the vehicle I'm looking at mentioned on MBWorld in some W463 threads, but wondering if anyone else has looked at it. It seems to be a good vehicle, but I think the dealer has been pretty heavy on the price. https://www.chicagoautocapital.com/d...63x141448.html
I'm looking at a 2003 G500 with 58k on it in Chicagoland. The black lower rocker pieces look misshaped a bit on the ends and there is some rust showing up where the end caps are. I did not remove them to inspect behind, but my visual inspection did not show any corrosion that I could see. Actually, there isn't any corrosion on the vehicle except the typical stuff underneath. If I purchase it, I think the first thing I would do is take it to my MB body shop, have them remove the lower rocker pieces, check for any issues behind them, and replace with new. I have seen the vehicle I'm looking at mentioned on MBWorld in some W463 threads, but wondering if anyone else has looked at it. It seems to be a good vehicle, but I think the dealer has been pretty heavy on the price. https://www.chicagoautocapital.com/d...63x141448.html
Looks like a nice truck. Of course who knows what's underneath but seems clean. Love the original MSRP sticker. As for the ask price, who knows anymore with G's.
I'm looking at a 2003 G500 with 58k on it in Chicagoland. The black lower rocker pieces look misshaped a bit on the ends and there is some rust showing up where the end caps are. I did not remove them to inspect behind, but my visual inspection did not show any corrosion that I could see. Actually, there isn't any corrosion on the vehicle except the typical stuff underneath. If I purchase it, I think the first thing I would do is take it to my MB body shop, have them remove the lower rocker pieces, check for any issues behind them, and replace with new. I have seen the vehicle I'm looking at mentioned on MBWorld in some W463 threads, but wondering if anyone else has looked at it. It seems to be a good vehicle, but I think the dealer has been pretty heavy on the price. https://www.chicagoautocapital.com/d...63x141448.html
if you could get closeup shots I could probably give you a better idea of what problems may exist and what kind of options you have to repair them.
In typical G-class fashion, I noticed that all of the bolts holding the rear skid plate to the vehicle were badly rusted. Even after applying WD40, every single bolt broke off with almost no torque (was using a breaker bar but I was *barely* pushing on it).
The plate is loose at the edges but seems to be pretty securely fastened at both the front and rear of the skid plate. I can't seem to locate where it's held in. Also not sure how I'm going to get the screws out of the holes. I suppose I'll have to drill them out, or maybe I'll take it to a mechanic and have him remove the screws, the skid plate and let me know how to reattach it (I'd like to sand down the surface corrosion and respray it + replace the screws with stainless steel hardware):
if you could get closeup shots I could probably give you a better idea of what problems may exist and what kind of options you have to repair them.
Thanks. I have added a few pics. The lower rocker trim seems to be pulling away and I think this is a somewhat common thing. I pulled a little harder and did not see any rust behind, but couldn't look at the center. Also in the photo is a photo of the wheel well where you can see the upper shock mount. I think after a dry ice clean or baking soda clean, one could treat it with something and it would last. This is going to be a summer weekend car for us and while I understand it will be a black hole for money, I just want to start out with something good.
Have any of you guys tried ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Formula (Link) spray instead of WD-40? I know its pretty big with the bike/motorcycle folks. They spray it on the entire body of the bike as well. Supposed to be non-greasy and was initially made for military for planes and electrical systems. I'm not sure what it does to rubber though.
I've also seen some good things about Cosmoline RP-342 for the undercarriage.
I've been thinking about buying a G for some time now but these rust issues always give me pause but these are the things I ran into while researching. Anyone use any of these things or have thoughts on them?
Have any of you guys tried ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Formula (Link) spray instead of WD-40? I know its pretty big with the bike/motorcycle folks. They spray it on the entire body of the bike as well. Supposed to be non-greasy and was initially made for military for planes and electrical systems. I'm not sure what it does to rubber though.
I've also seen some good things about Cosmoline RP-342 for the undercarriage.
I've been thinking about buying a G for some time now but these rust issues always give me pause but these are the things I ran into while researching. Anyone use any of these things or have thoughts on them?
I hear this is the best-
CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, 10 Wt Oz, 06026 https://a.co/d/dbBydJ9
Last edited by PeriodCorrect; Sep 14, 2022 at 01:09 PM.
The good thing about the ACF-50 is it is not greasy or oily and people spray it on paint. Not sure I would do that but it might be a good solution for the hinges, running boards and outside exposed areas where there are bolts, etc..
The good thing about the ACF-50 is it is not greasy or oily and people spray it on paint. Not sure I would do that but it might be a good solution for the hinges, running boards and outside exposed areas where there are bolts, etc..
Looking at the ACF website, looks like they have a few different lines; including corrosion block and rust block. Any idea on differences?
Looking at the ACF website, looks like they have a few different lines; including corrosion block and rust block. Any idea on differences?
I found the difference between the ACF-50 and Corrosion Block. Basically the same stuff but Corrosion Block is a thicker formula mostly made for industrial and marine use: http://www.acf-50.co.uk/automotive.h...dustrial%20use.
My 2011 with just 40K miles is getting taken care of following rust spots
They're obvious factory paint flaws Both rear doors, around handle 2. Rear hatch, around handle 3. Rear left, below the hatch/above bumper 4. Drivers door pillar, rock chip 5. Drivers door, bottom by chrome piece 1. Both rear doors, around handle 2. Rear hatch, around handle 3. Rear left, below the hatch/above bumper 4. Drivers door pillar, rock chip 5. Drivers door, bottom by chrome piece
1. Both rear doors, around handle
2. Rear hatch, around handle
3. Rear left, below the hatch/above bumper
4. Drivers door, bottom by chrome piece
6. Spot by black trim, passenger side
Make sure to use a dehumidifier in your garage from here on out, and use oil to lubricate the truck as best as possible. I can tell you about all the spots to hit if you’d like.
wonder if its better to keep it outside in the winter with the snow/salt? Seems like keeping in in the garage caked in salt and trapped humidity could make rust conditions worse.
This is correct if temperatures are well below freezing... keeping it out in the cold and dry air (even if covered in salt) as opposed to a warm garage covered in salt.
This is correct if temperatures are well below freezing... keeping it out in the cold and dry air (even if covered in salt) as opposed to a warm garage covered in salt.
pressure wash the chassis (or get an oil undercoating) and keep it in the garage while using fans and a dehumidifier to dry it out.
I used to have an old beat up Nissan Pathfinder that got to the point where rust was pretty much all over and it became part of its character, combined with a few dents. It looked really cool, like an old battle-scarred hero. To an extent, I think a rusty G wagon can someday take on a similar persona... if it wasn't for the fact that these are six-figure vehicles, and (for most of us) money doesn't grow on trees.
Are people in Florida and Texas having this issue or is it mostly in areas with snow and salt?
Salt definately makes the problem worse, but any place with prolonged moisture is problematic.
Again, if you have a garage, fans and a dehumidifier are your friend. Use at least one fan to dry the chassis, one fan to circulate air over the truck and a dehumidifier set to its lowest setting (most non-industrial dehumidifiers can bring ambient humidity down to 35%. Lower is better but 35% is good)
Also, get your chassis oil coated and work on treating all the problem areas with corrosion inhibiting oil/grease (LPS, B’Laster Surface Shield, WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor, etc)
Do you happen to know roughly what the windshield portion of the work cost you? I'm asking because I wonder if it is about the same price or possibly cheaper to buy a new windshield frame and have it painted and installed (vs. taking the old windshield frame and sanding and painting it).
Thought I'd make a quick video about how to rust proof the rear door hinges on your G-class.
Note: In the video I said to use LPS or WD40 Corrosion Inhibitor but I'd skip those oils as they are potentially flammable. Use a good spray grease with a high drip point such as B'Laster Surface Shield or Lucas Red n' Tacky aerosol:
Thanks for the video. I'm going in to KROWN to have their oil sprayed in the body crevices as well as the frame- Do you know if their oil is potentially flammable as well? They do this throughout the country and canada, so I'm guessing they've done their homework, but I thought I'd get your opinion.
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