LOUD UNBEARABLE SCREECHING sound from driver side rear speaker
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 681
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From: ToRonTo, OnTaRiO, Khanaadah
s550
LOUD UNBEARABLE SCREECHING sound from driver side rear speaker
I was enjoying a fine smooth ride today and then The G-wagon hit me with another one today.
Driver side rear speaker and Twitter started crackling for a few secs and then suddenly the sound switched to a LOUD unbearable screech. So loud that it is impossible to drive with it. Very embarrassing too. Had to park the truck and take the Lexus.
Not sure if it’s a blown speaker and Twitter.
I noticed it was still going on for quite a while even after I shut off the car. This sound is LOUD. It drowned the music coming from all the other speakers.
Anyone experience such?
should I be looking for a new speaker and Twitter or could it be something else?
I added a video.
Driver side rear speaker and Twitter started crackling for a few secs and then suddenly the sound switched to a LOUD unbearable screech. So loud that it is impossible to drive with it. Very embarrassing too. Had to park the truck and take the Lexus.
Not sure if it’s a blown speaker and Twitter.
I noticed it was still going on for quite a while even after I shut off the car. This sound is LOUD. It drowned the music coming from all the other speakers.
Anyone experience such?
should I be looking for a new speaker and Twitter or could it be something else?
I added a video.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Massachusetts
2018 GLE350, 2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1980 TR8, 1995 E320 Cabriolet
More likely the amplifier. Mercedes audio amplifiers are about as reliable as an old British sports car. They use a Class D (PWM) design so I could easily see where they might experience something like this. To know this for sure, if you have the time and energy, swap the left and right speakers.
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From: NJ/NYC
2005 G55K
Floobydust is probably right. It's most likely the amplifier. You can switch the speakers left and right as a sanity check first. If it is the amplifier, you have a few options of a used amp, or taking it to a shop to have an aftermarket amp installed. It will probably be much better than the OE amp but will also cost more and you'll need a shop you trust not to hack up your trucks wiring. I can make a few amp recommendations as I went down this road very deep on amp and speaker research. I also have my old amp that I'll let go of for a good price if it works with your truck. Mine is a 2005 and I can get you the PN tomorrow.
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: ToRonTo, OnTaRiO, Khanaadah
s550
Hey
Urghhhh...I just replaced the amp with one from ebay few weeks ago Because the old one was bad.
I will spend some time swapping the speakers just to satisfy myself. Time to shop for another amp.
I don’t think the 2005 amp will work for my MY.
I will spend some time swapping the speakers just to satisfy myself. Time to shop for another amp.
I don’t think the 2005 amp will work for my MY.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 681
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From: ToRonTo, OnTaRiO, Khanaadah
s550
Swapped the old amp back and it worked. (albeit not as it should). This means the current amp is the cause of the screeching. Sad cause it seems the crackling from the issue actually blew a speaker as i can now hear it making sounds like its torn when sound comes out of it.
Am worried every amp i buy from eBay might be defective now...urgh
Am worried every amp i buy from eBay might be defective now...urgh
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From: Massachusetts
2018 GLE350, 2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1980 TR8, 1995 E320 Cabriolet
Yes indeed, the MB audio amps seem to be one of the most unreliable components they make (or should I say, have made - I think Alpine actually makes them). But the odds of rolling snake eyes twice in a row are pretty low. You may want to replace the speaker first so as to prevent any problems with the voice coil from potentially damaging a new amp.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: ToRonTo, OnTaRiO, Khanaadah
s550
hey
Yes indeed, the MB audio amps seem to be one of the most unreliable components they make (or should I say, have made - I think Alpine actually makes them). But the odds of rolling snake eyes twice in a row are pretty low. You may want to replace the speaker first so as to prevent any problems with the voice coil from potentially damaging a new amp.
Now i just have to find another amp and pray to God i don't encounter same thing.
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From: NJ/NYC
2005 G55K
Is there any specific reason you want to keep the OEM amp? Just wondering as a good quality aftermarket amp will perform much better and be more reliable, but of course will involve a custom installation.
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From: ToRonTo, OnTaRiO, Khanaadah
s550
otherwise, am very ok with the OEM sound quality.
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From: Massachusetts
2018 GLE350, 2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1980 TR8, 1995 E320 Cabriolet
What year/model is your G? On the later years, you run the risk of losing a lot of functionality if you go to an aftermarket amp because the head unit to amp interface is MOST fiber optic and not analogue. MOST can carry the content protected, full bit rate, 7.1 digital data that the head unit produces. On a later G, a aftermarket amp may beget an aftermarket head unit.
BTW, I am quite satisfied with the sound of my '14 G550 now that I have gotten rid of the speed controlled volume function. The sub is a little anemic (a newer digital audio Steely Dan track will really do it in), but does okay for most material.
If it were me, I would just troll eBay for another MB amp.
BTW, I am quite satisfied with the sound of my '14 G550 now that I have gotten rid of the speed controlled volume function. The sub is a little anemic (a newer digital audio Steely Dan track will really do it in), but does okay for most material.
If it were me, I would just troll eBay for another MB amp.
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From: NJ/NYC
2005 G55K
There are no direct replacements for any of the speakers on the W463. You can get new OEM speakers off one of the many OE parts suppliers. They're not terribly expensive, but they're not that great either. The are readily available for older W463's (link for the speakers for a 2005) but I'm curiously not finding anything for a 2013.
https://www.mymbgenuineparts.com/v-2...--sound-system
The issue is the speakers have a built in mounting adapter/spacer that does not line up with any universal adapter that I have tested. I ended up designing my own speaker adapters and 3D printing them when installing Polk speakers. I've done this with the 2 rear cargo speakers, 2 rear door speakers, 2 front tweeters, and I still have to finish up the 2 front door speakers.
Alternatively, you can have someone who can cut out the old speaker and set in a new replacement speaker. Thus keeping the OE frame and speaker connection. The speaker is a 6.5" and most universal replacements you can find on Parts Express should work fine. The OE rear door speakers do have a 3ohm impedance which is a little bit weird (standard is 4ohms), so I'm not sure how the sound quality and loudness will be affected.
Here's a link to my post that I wrote up about it (among many other things): Post #46
The rear door speakers also are part of a "simulated subwoofer" that groups the 2 rear door speakers with the subwoofer under the bench seat to simulate a "larger subwoofer". If you just disconnected it, I don't really think you would notice the difference. The front speakers (front doors + tweeters + center) do like, 90% of the work of making the system sound how it does (adequate).
https://www.mymbgenuineparts.com/v-2...--sound-system
The issue is the speakers have a built in mounting adapter/spacer that does not line up with any universal adapter that I have tested. I ended up designing my own speaker adapters and 3D printing them when installing Polk speakers. I've done this with the 2 rear cargo speakers, 2 rear door speakers, 2 front tweeters, and I still have to finish up the 2 front door speakers.
Alternatively, you can have someone who can cut out the old speaker and set in a new replacement speaker. Thus keeping the OE frame and speaker connection. The speaker is a 6.5" and most universal replacements you can find on Parts Express should work fine. The OE rear door speakers do have a 3ohm impedance which is a little bit weird (standard is 4ohms), so I'm not sure how the sound quality and loudness will be affected.
Here's a link to my post that I wrote up about it (among many other things): Post #46
The rear door speakers also are part of a "simulated subwoofer" that groups the 2 rear door speakers with the subwoofer under the bench seat to simulate a "larger subwoofer". If you just disconnected it, I don't really think you would notice the difference. The front speakers (front doors + tweeters + center) do like, 90% of the work of making the system sound how it does (adequate).
Last edited by shiann; Oct 22, 2020 at 11:22 PM.
