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I have a 2011 G550 and I am getting ready to drop it off with a car audio tech to install LED Headlight housing covers (ala 2013+ model G's) as well as 13+ mirrors and a G63 front bumper. It's my understanding that to avoid error codes on the dash (especially for the fog light delete as the G63 bumper does not account for fogs), the use of resistors will be necessary.
While I remain an electrical noob myself, my research on various forums has taught me resistors get incredibly hot- enough so to potentially melt plastics and wires, or worse.
Is there any way around the use of resistors in this case? For those of you who have added these parts, what was your method? I hope to get as much intel as possible and take it to my installer on Monday.
Bonus points if anyone has a preferred method to wiring the headlight bezels- attached are the specific set I have. I'm not sure what the connector in my hand is for; nor do I see any 'control module' that other DRL sets seem to come with. Ideally I can wire them to dim when the headlights come on.
I have a 2011 G550 and I am getting ready to drop it off with a car audio tech to install LED Headlight housing covers (ala 2013+ model G's) as well as 13+ mirrors and a G63 front bumper. It's my understanding that to avoid error codes on the dash (especially for the fog light delete as the G63 bumper does not account for fogs), the use of resistors will be necessary.
While I remain an electrical noob myself, my research on various forums has taught me resistors get incredibly hot- enough so to potentially melt plastics and wires, or worse.
Is there any way around the use of resistors in this case? For those of you who have added these parts, what was your method? I hope to get as much intel as possible and take it to my installer on Monday.
Bonus points if anyone has a preferred method to wiring the headlight bezels- attached are the specific set I have. I'm not sure what the connector in my hand is for; nor do I see any 'control module' that other DRL sets seem to come with. Ideally I can wire them to dim when the headlights come on.
Have you checked into recoding the ECU to have the fog lamps deleted?
If the lamps didn't come with wiring instructions, and if you're installer doesn't know what to do, are you sure you want to do this?
Couple of questions. Your forum user name appears to fly in the face of what you're attempting to accomplish with your 2011 G550. If you are dedicated to "period correct" why are you faffing about with 2013+ LED DRL headlight bezels/mirrors and G63 bumpers on a 2011 G550? Is there something deficient with your 2011 G550's "period correct" headlights, mirrors and bumpers? Is it merely a yearning for a more modern "with it" appearance? And why are you dealing with a car audio tech for cosmetic modifications?
I hope you are aware that "upgrading" a specific year of G-wagen with bits and pieces of a more current iteration of G-wagen (eg. LED-mania DRLs/mirrors plus G63 bumpers WITHOUT fog lights) ACTUALLY REDUCES both the resale value and resale desirability of a G-wagen. True period correct people demand that a vehicle is EXACTLY in the condition that it was when it left the factory.
If it ain't broke, leave **** alone, the way it came from the hand-assembly factory in Graz, Austria. There are far more intelligent and practical ways to personalize and distinguish your G-wagen. For example, upgrade the factory brake rotors and brake pads. A 2.5 ton vehicle with lotsa giddy-up needs far better braking with much less brake dust. And M-B OEM-contracted/approved tire brands/types leave much to be desired if you drive in 4-season conditions or venture off-pavement.
Are you "organic" or "GMO+artificial flavoring" regarding your 2011 G550? G-wagens really aren't about phucked n' phurious street-cred.
I hope you are aware that "upgrading" a specific year of G-wagen with bits and pieces of a more current iteration of G-wagen (eg. LED-mania DRLs/mirrors plus G63 bumpers WITHOUT fog lights) ACTUALLY REDUCES both the resale value and resale desirability of a G-wagen. True period correct people demand that a vehicle is EXACTLY in the condition that it was when it left the factory.
This is a really good point, and I often wonder why so many forum members are so anxious to spend time and $$$ installing not easily reversible "upgrades". Things like tires, wheels or accessories are one thing, but does a DIY Brabus makeover really add value and appeal? Whenever I catch a classic car auction on TV, as you say, the "all original" vehicles pull the highest bids. When you decide to "personalize" your vehicle, remember you're doing just that, and your tastes are likely not the same as the next guy's. He/she will want a price concession to accept yours.
What an unfortunately condescending reply. Your response contributes nothing to my question. Before you have (God forbid) an aneurysm, remember two things: the first being who paid for the car in my possession, and the second being that I chose my username. I am a Porsche collector and my username is a reference to that part of my garage. In fact, look at the Instagram called Period Correct. They backdate G wagons from their correct period to older models.
Also please realize that in life, a username does not dictate what you’re able to do or discuss with your car. It’s just a name.
Now, if you have any technical knowledge that you could pass along to be constructive and beneficial, I’d be more than happy to listen. The installer is quite experienced with electrical wiring, however there’s a rhyme and reason behind connecting via the aux pump vs the parking lights for example. This is an issue that is G specific. That is what I am here to discuss.
Also- these upgrades are reversible. Happy Friday.
What an unfortunately condescending reply. Your response contributes nothing to my question. Before you have (God forbid) an aneurysm, remember two things: the first being who paid for the car in my possession, and the second being that I chose my username. I am a Porsche collector and my username is a reference to that part of my garage. In fact, look at the Instagram called Period Correct. They backdate G wagons from their correct period to older models.
Also please realize that in life, a username does not dictate what you’re able to do or discuss with your car. It’s just a name.
Now, if you have any technical knowledge that you could pass along to be constructive and beneficial, I’d be more than happy to listen. The installer is quite experienced with electrical wiring, however there’s a rhyme and reason behind connecting via the aux pump vs the parking lights for example. This is an issue that is G specific. That is what I am here to discuss.
Also- these upgrades are reversible. Happy Friday.
Certainly no one intends to be condescending -- merely expressing points of view to consider. However, I do take issue with your upgrades being reversible if incorporating them requires an experienced installer and you are soliciting information that neither you nor your installer currently has. I have seen plenty of hack jobs done by "professionals" that make even repairs impossible, much less restoration to an original configuration.
Everyone here wishes you the best of experiences in the process and the results.
Yes, adding resistors anywhere to compensate for either missing lights, or newer LED bulbs that draw less current than the OE halogen bulbs will cause them to heat up. There is no way around that. However, if you're clever about it, you can reduce the amount of heat going to the resistors as much as possible by choosing the correct resistance on the load resistors to draw as little current as possible while still making the computers happy, thus dissipating the least amount of heat as possible.
In short, I had to make my own load resistor setup. I did some experimentation and found the least resistance (highest ohm number) that would still fool the computers. I purchased the largest resistors I could with that resistance and added even more cooling capacity with aluminum heat sinks. I 3D printed a mount to bolt to the inside of the fender and made everything plug and play. They're still working well after a year, but I redesigned the whole assembly to add EVEN MORE cooling capacity, double the heat sinks, and 2 computer fans to actively cool it down.
In your case, since the fog lights aren't something that are always on, you may be able to get away with just leaving them disconnected and not using them (computer will usually not check for missing bulbs until you actually turn the circuit on), thus avoiding an error message.
I'm not sure if your 2011 has a DRL or city light bulb in the headlight housing already, but if it does, this would be perfect for running the new LED DRLs. The harness you're holding in your hands is to get power to the DRL's. I can't see the wire colors clearly and don't have a wiring diagram for them, but I would guess the ring terminal is to ground the lights and the plug in your hand is to connect to a headlight circuit. It looks like there is a second plug under the wire bundle you're holding so this would connect in line with your headlights so the LEDs draw power from that circuit. In this case, the LED DRLs will only be on when your headlights are on. Your audio/electrical installer should be able to advise you on different options how to connect everything and how it will work. If they don't know or are confused, you need to find a new installer ASAP.
Good luck and if you need more help, feel free to ask.
Also, I think everyone's definition of "period correct" is completely different so do whatever you want to do. It's your truck!
What an unfortunately condescending reply. Your response contributes nothing to my question. Before you have (God forbid) an aneurysm, remember two things: the first being who paid for the car in my possession, and the second being that I chose my username. I am a Porsche collector and my username is a reference to that part of my garage. In fact, look at the Instagram called Period Correct. They backdate G wagons from their correct period to older models.
Also please realize that in life, a username does not dictate what you’re able to do or discuss with your car. It’s just a name.
Now, if you have any technical knowledge that you could pass along to be constructive and beneficial, I’d be more than happy to listen. The installer is quite experienced with electrical wiring, however there’s a rhyme and reason behind connecting via the aux pump vs the parking lights for example. This is an issue that is G specific. That is what I am here to discuss.
Also- these upgrades are reversible. Happy Friday.
Wow. This is the world in which we now live. Some people's toes stick out so far that one can't help but tread on them. Please consider my prior post more of a PSA (public service announcement). Nearly EVERYTHING electrical/electronic on a post-2001 MY G-wagen is interconnected and monitored via the onboard CANBUS system; switching to low current draw components (LEDs) or deleting components altogether opens up a world of hurt regarding expense, reliability and resale value. Still, if you're determined to facelift your 2011 W463, try posting your query on the clubgwagen forum.
"I would like to apologize to anyone I have not yet offended. Please be patient. I will get to you shortly." ~ Calvin Martin, Q.C 1933-2014
This is poser land, where someone wants to make an old G look like a new AM-G when they all look like they're from the year 2002 anyways, and nobody on the street really cares. It just looks like an old truck, and certainly drives like one..... constantly chasing the steering wheel to stay in one lane and bouncing around like it's got blown out air suspension.
Haha very true, the heavy steering builds the arms up well though.
Could not care less what other people on the street think, it’s my truck. If I wanted to ‘flex’ I could simply post a photo of my collection. It’s bizarre how people want to gauge intent and impose their feelings on a topic nobody asked.
Did anyone rip KobzarHomes for updating to a G63 bumper during his restoration? Is he a poser? This is the ONLY thread I’ve seen here with a lack of help outside of what @shiann has kindly contributed.
And to pawzitiv, not sure what triggered you. Yes the world today is far too sensitive… which if you agree with you’ll take the following without crying-
I’m not offended by your opinion- I simply didn’t ask for it. It’s that simple.
As Shiann pointed, there are no problems with reliability if done correctly.
Please understand that 80+% of this (and most) specialty forums revolve around modification.
Do you know lifting a G affects its geometry? Adversely when compared to how it left the factory in Graz, I might add.
“Live and let live” - a recipe for a less angry life.
Yes, adding resistors anywhere to compensate for either missing lights, or newer LED bulbs that draw less current than the OE halogen bulbs will cause them to heat up. There is no way around that. However, if you're clever about it, you can reduce the amount of heat going to the resistors as much as possible by choosing the correct resistance on the load resistors to draw as little current as possible while still making the computers happy, thus dissipating the least amount of heat as possible.
In short, I had to make my own load resistor setup. I did some experimentation and found the least resistance (highest ohm number) that would still fool the computers. I purchased the largest resistors I could with that resistance and added even more cooling capacity with aluminum heat sinks. I 3D printed a mount to bolt to the inside of the fender and made everything plug and play. They're still working well after a year, but I redesigned the whole assembly to add EVEN MORE cooling capacity, double the heat sinks, and 2 computer fans to actively cool it down.
In your case, since the fog lights aren't something that are always on, you may be able to get away with just leaving them disconnected and not using them (computer will usually not check for missing bulbs until you actually turn the circuit on), thus avoiding an error message.
I'm not sure if your 2011 has a DRL or city light bulb in the headlight housing already, but if it does, this would be perfect for running the new LED DRLs. The harness you're holding in your hands is to get power to the DRL's. I can't see the wire colors clearly and don't have a wiring diagram for them, but I would guess the ring terminal is to ground the lights and the plug in your hand is to connect to a headlight circuit. It looks like there is a second plug under the wire bundle you're holding so this would connect in line with your headlights so the LEDs draw power from that circuit. In this case, the LED DRLs will only be on when your headlights are on. Your audio/electrical installer should be able to advise you on different options how to connect everything and how it will work. If they don't know or are confused, you need to find a new installer ASAP.
Good luck and if you need more help, feel free to ask.
Also, I think everyone's definition of "period correct" is completely different so do whatever you want to do. It's your truck!
Thank you! I’m likely going to get with you about some speaker adapters lately. I appreciate the valuable input you contribute to this forum. Your education and engineering background are very evident.
I think I’ve settled on just doing the mirrors and headlight covers for now, I don’t want to deal with the hassle of deleting the fogs when I don’t mind the OE bumper. I hate the mirrors and prefer them LEDs though.
Do you have an idea of where I can mount the resistors for the mirrors? These are the ones I purchased:
4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code (Resistors get very hot during working)
I believe the turn signals in the shrek ear side mirrors are already LED and cannot be changed (the bulb). If swapping over to the newer style side mirrors, it may just be plug and play, saying that everything can bolt up and the electrical connectors are the same. Unfortunately, that's about as much as I am able to help you.
Those load resistors from Amazon may or may not work. It all depends on what the G computers are expecting from the OE style bulbs and what you swap in there. 6ohms is a good start, but will get pretty hot as it is a pretty large power draw. At 12V, the 6 ohm resistors will be drawing 2 amps (V=I*R or V/R = I) Thus they will need to dissipate 24W (P=I^2R) - For reference, the resistance I settled on for my headlight load resistors was 12 ohms. For blinkers, load resistors won't get that hot since it's only on intermittently. For things like side markers or headlights, they will get very hot (too hot to touch) since those are on continuously.
As I said in the previous response, your Audio/Electrical person should know how to make this work and let you know all the details. I don't think you'll need load resistors for either the DRL's or the side view mirrors, but that is just an educated guess. I'm making a lot of assumptions on how the DRL's are wired and the plug-and-play nature of the headlights.
In short, I had to make my own load resistor setup. I did some experimentation and found the least resistance (highest ohm number) that would still fool the computers. I purchased the largest resistors I could with that resistance and added even more cooling capacity with aluminum heat sinks. I 3D printed a mount to bolt to the inside of the fender and made everything plug and play. They're still working well after a year, but I redesigned the whole assembly to add EVEN MORE cooling capacity, double the heat sinks, and 2 computer fans to actively cool it down.
Would you post a pic sometime of your heat sink cooling fan setup?
Thanks for this - impressive solution! Have you ever traced the light wiring back to the SAM to see if there's a way to change the current sensor so that it works with LEDs?
Thanks for this - impressive solution! Have you ever traced the light wiring back to the SAM to see if there's a way to change the current sensor so that it works with LEDs?
I have not, nor do I want to mess with the SAM. There is probably a way to get these current limits changed buried deep in the MB Star System and/or through system programming, but I don't have the expertise nor equipment for that. I should get a STAR Clone though eventually. My overall knowledge of electronics is somewhat limited, but I am pretty familiar with things like general 12V wiring, but I tend to only mess with things I really understand.
I have not, nor do I want to mess with the SAM. There is probably a way to get these current limits changed buried deep in the MB Star System and/or through system programming, but I don't have the expertise nor equipment for that. I should get a STAR Clone though eventually. My overall knowledge of electronics is somewhat limited, but I am pretty familiar with things like general 12V wiring, but I tend to only mess with things I really understand.
I suspect you are right about changing the settings with the SDS, but that is far more than I ever intend to get involved with. There is a post in the Technical/Audio&Electronics section of the forum by an owner of an MB sedan who went with the LED OE tail light upgrade, only to find out that MB's trailer light harness works only with the OE incandescent tail lights. Long story short, this caused him much grief in wiring up a trailer harness. But his experience seems to substantiate the belief that current sensing is programmable.
DRL’s were wired to a 5amp fuse that will turn on in key position #2 and required no resistors.
Mirrors required resistors as they were lighting up even with the truck off and key out of ignition without them. Once resistors were soldered in (to the new mirrors, causing no permanent change to OEM wiring) this subsided.
All in all, I now have the upgrades I desired, no error lights on dash, and it’s all completely and easily reversible.
To those reading this thread- don’t be scared to experiment.
@shiann , again thank you for your thoughtful replies.
I think I’m stopping here, though I may do a bumper upgrade at some point. Currently leaning towards 16-18 G550 bumper, but we’ll see. Going to give myself some time with the OE bumper to see how I feel about it. May do some 18s with ATs and a roof rack first.
Last edited by PeriodCorrect; 10-27-2021 at 12:58 AM.
10-21-2021, 10:22 PM
