I have a 2016 G550. We are moving from FL to CO this summer, and I'm seeking any advice to protect the truck from rock chips, salt on the road, and other local factors.



Has anyone installed mud flaps or mud guards, and if so, can you recommend a particular product? Do mud flaps/guards help protect the vehicle? To be clear, I don't intend to do any off-roading in this truck, but I'll be living on a dirt road a couple of miles off the main road.



I am currently running Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/55 R19 tires. How do these handle in the snow? I believe they're advertised as an all season tire, but any first hand experience with handling in the snow is much appreciated. Do you have 2 sets of tires, switching to snow tires in the winter?



Also, any recommendations for paint protection film, and if so, specifically where on the vehicle? I don't want to wrap the whole truck, only vulnerable areas. Any other recommendations for maintaining a nice truck in winter climate is appreciated.

 

I'm in Vermont and also live on a dirt road.

Mud flaps:
- For the front, I got these (http://www.fourbyfourclub.com/W463Ac...assicFront.htm) from another member here. It was an easy bolt-on installation.
- For rears, I got quoted ~$2k for them by a dealer. Apparently, US-spec G's don't come with all the necessary mounting brackets so there were a lot of additional parts to purchase. I've seen other members here using universal ones which is probably a much better route.

Snow tires:
- I got a dedicated winter wheel with Nokian Hakka R3 SUV's this winter and they were great.

I also had Fluid Film applied to the undercarriage. That's something you would need to do on a yearly basis but from what I've heard it helps with the salt and preventing corrosion.

 

Crazy price for the rear mudflaps.

What size Nokia's are you using?

I have never heard of Fluid Film but just looked it up. Looks simple enough. Did you spray it yourself? Does it leave any kind of visual residue like waxoyl?

 

Congrats in advance on your move to Colorado. I've been here 35 years and can't imagine living anywhere else. So many days of sunshine, low humidity, four seasons and things to do outdoors every day of the year -- it's wonderful!

Regarding mud guards, check the post at https://mbworld.org/forums/g-class-w...-mudflaps.html for MB p/n's. These rear guards fit my 2019 G, but the front guards fit only earlier models such as yours. They're not the greatest, but they're inexpensive, they fit and installation is easy (the Husky Liner guards I bought for my Jeep are much nicer, but I've not found any custom fit aftermarket guards for the G other than the MB's).

All season tires are fine year round in climates such as FL, but even with the "M+S" sidewall marking, you'll find the Pirelli's inadequate for snow (I took mine off before clocking 1K miles). I run Yokohama Geolander A/Ts (with the 3PSF rating) year round and find them great in all weather conditions here. You can go with snow rated tires (I run Blizzaks on my old Jeep to push a snow plow), but I don't think they're necessary with 4WD unless you make a living driving your car in a Colorado mountain community. If you do decide on a set of snow tires, have them mounted on a second set of wheels so you avoid having to have tires flipped twice a year. I'm guessing your relocation destination is the front range (I-25 corridor). Colorado does a decent job of snow removal in its populated areas, and its biggest advantage is lots of winter sun. Once the snow plows scrape away the heavy stuff, the sun and low humidity does the rest, and roads become dry fairly quickly, even if temps remain low. However, Colorado does have a lot of "black ice". This is when the snow melts and road surfaces remain wet from the heat of the sun, even when the temperature is below freezing. You can be driving down a wet highway and suddenly encounter a patch of road shielded from the sun by a building, tree or mountain, and the road surface turns instantly from water to ice. I've seen unaware drivers spin wildly out of control before ever realizing what happened to them. Colorado does treat its major highways with pea-gravel, but doesn't fertilize them with salt the way states in the northeast do (and there's no salt in the humid air as there is in FL's coastal communities). You can install 3M film on your G's vulnerable locations, but I just avoid driving my G on days immediately after snow storms and road graveling.

If you don't currently have rubber floor mats such as WeatherTechs or G OEs, I recommend installing a set for year round use. I don't have any under-carriage coating other the what came from the factory. I try to keep my G washed during the winter as often as the weather cooperates.

Other than then above, a snow brush, good wipers and antifreeze fluid, a snow shovel, and jumper cables are necessary. And an emergency kit (blankets, water, snack bars) is a good idea if you plan wintertime mountain travel.

Good luck on your move!

 

The Nokians** are a 275/55R20. Here's a thread with some pics.

I took the truck to a shop that did the film application. It was $250 and the whole process took about three hours. You can tell there is something applied but it doesn't look bad.

+1 on the snow brush. The

Snow Joe

Snow Joe

is very helpful for clearing snow off the roof.

 

Streborx, great to meet you and thanks very much for the detailed reply and warm welcome. We are really looking forward to the move to CO, it's been a dream for a LONG time. We are moving to Durango after spending many years skiing, hiking, and vacationing in CO. We love the western slope.

I did a search previously and actually already read your post on mud guards, so thanks for that! I looked at AutohausAZ but the site is so confusing. I've sent them 2 emails asking for clarification, but I didn't get the answers I need. Here is a link to the site with mud guards in the search bar:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/k...0/mud%20guards
Are you able to help identify which parts I actually need for front and rear? Also, do I have to purchase brackets and mounting hardware separately or are these complete kits? Any additional help is really appreciated!!!!

Thanks for the tire advice. We will be living close to town, but partially off grid a couple of miles down a dirt road. I will heed your advice and purchase a second set of wheels with dedicated snow tires. Any recommendation on extra wheels (where to purchase, manufacturer, size, etc)? I realize this can come down to esthetics and personal taste, but I'm just looking for something functional and decent looking. Would you recommend the Blizzak tires if I want a dedicated snow tire?
Is this the correct tire: Blizzak DM-V2 265/60 R18 (https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tire...2/265-60R18/)?
or this one: 275/50 R20 (per Tire Rack).

Weather tech mats - Done! Noted on the frequent winter washes and emergency kit!
I'll buy the Snow Joe brush as recommended by Greta63, thanks for that.

Thanks for the advice, and please reach out if you pass through Durango.

 

Durango!!! You lucky guy! IMO, the most beautiful part of Colorado -- great off-roading, effectively isolated from front-range insanity by the Continental Divide, and home to some of the best micro-breweries in the state. We live about 30 minutes west of Durango (on a gravel road) -- been here since escaping Boulder 7 years ago, and have never looked back.

The mud guard info listed for your 2016 is different than what is spec'd for my 2019. The guards I received included no installation hardware. Inasmuch as only the rear flaps fit, and that only common screws were required, I didn't purchase any other parts, and was able to do the install without any problems. The front guards I received were clearly not the right parts, but no hardware was included with them either. Autohausaz sources its MB parts from several of the Phoenix area dealerships, and discounts them a bit from dealer pricing. Your best bet for p/n info is probably a dealership, and someone there can tell you what brackets and fasteners are necessary.

I'm running the Blizzak DM-V2's on my Jeep YJ and push snow uphill with a 7 foot/600 lb snowplow hanging on its front, and I never cease being amazed at the traction they have, even on slick snow-pack. My recommendation for a tire retailer is Discount Tire in Durango. They're fast, friendly, competent, and they'll price match any other deal you find. They run wheel plus tire package promotions a couple times a year, and can get you almost anything you decide on (I wouldn't spend a fortune on alloys intended for wintertime use). Discount Tire also includes free balancing/rotation every 5K miles with everything they sell. DT's website can identify the tire size your G takes, and the service reps in the Durango store can help you with re-sizing if an exact fit isn't available.

The only downside to Durango is that the closest MB dealerships are a day's drive away in Santa Fe, Colo Springs and Flagstaff. These dealerships are small, and I'd be reluctant to take my G to any of them for anything G-specific. A and B services they can probably do, but for safety recall service, I've taken my G to the Chandler (AZ) dealer that moves a lot of Gs and has a service department staffed with techs that work on them regularly. I do my own A and B service work, but I plan to have a Durango indy shop (Animas Automotive) do a brake fluid transfusion for me in a couple weeks, mostly because I don't want to deal with spent brake fluid disposal. Animas Auto is MB Star System equipped, so I'm guessing they know what they're doing, although this will be my first time in their shop.

Hope your move to Durango goes smoothly. PM me once you've landed and settled in, and we'll have y'all over for a brew.

 

Thanks Streborx. PM sent.

 

See my rust thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/g-class-w...ml#post8429077

Rust is going to be a big issue in CO. Some tips on how to prevent it:

-Always park your truck in a garage if possible. Make sure it is well sealed against the elements to prevent excess heat loss or ambient moisture from getting in. Use at least two fans (one blowing air at the chassis and one blowing air over the vehicle) along with a dehumidifier to dry the truck out.
-Get an anti-corrosive treatment. This includes oil, tar and wax based products. Stay the **** away from rubberized undercoatings. They trap moisture in and accelerate rust. If possible, get a treatment that includes the frame, suspension and the inside of body panels. Alternatively, you can use a pressure washer with an undercarriage treatment to clean the frame, suspension and wheel wells. I use an 80:20 mixture of dish detergent and "Salt Away" to wash the chassis.
-Treat your seals. Rust is notorious for forming around the windscreen. Get yourself a spray can of anti-corrosive, a 3 foot aerosol straw insert it behind the weatherstripping and blast away. Make sure the entire section of weatherstripping all around is saturated with whatever you use. The best products, in my humble opinion, are WD40 "specialist anti corrosion", LPS, B'laster Surface Shield and Lucas "Red n' Tacky" grease. It's okay if it seeps through the seal and onto the paint, just clean it up when you're done. Another area prone to rust is the metal surrounding the moon roof. While you cannot spray this area easily, you can certainly paint a thick product onto the sides and interior-side sheetmetal.
-Treat the door sills. This is another area prone to rust. Get yourself a creeper (or a lift) and get underneath the vehicle. There are six bolts that hold the running boards onto the body. Remove one at a time. The holes open up to the underside of the door sills. Using one of the same products I listed above and the 3 foot aerosol straw, insert the straw as far as you can into the cavity and spray, slowly pulling out as you do so. I would do this in every hole on each side. Don't be afraid to use half a can or more on each side.
-The rear door hinges are notorious for rust. You will have to remove the rear interior paneling to get to them. Soak them in oil. On the outside, pry back the seals a bit and spray the oil all around.
-Learn how to properly HAND WASH your car. NEVER use a mechanical washer, and only use a touchless wash when you cannot wash your car.

 

Not sure what part of Colorado you're familiar with, but here in the southwest region, climate conditions are not nearly this severe. Here in Durango (Elev. ~6500 ft.), the humidity is one of the lowest in the U.S., and roads aren't coated with chemicals as they are in the snowbelt. I grew up back east and vividly remember condensation dripping off my car on a mid-summer morning, and salt scum so thick on my car in mid-winter, that a Scotch-Brite was nearly necessary. The greatest road hazard was not mammoth pot-holes, but exhaust systems so badly corroded that they would spontaneously separate from a vehicle when hitting a pot-hole and then lay in the middle of the road. Hopefully, conditions back there have improved, but 40 years ago it was common for a car to disintegrate beyond repair in 8 years. Annual state inspections were required and if your vehicle developed rust perforation on its sheet metal, you couldn't pass. More common were brake drums half missing. Replacing mufflers and exhaust pipes every 3 or 4 years was considered normal car maintenance. But this kind of rust is not common in Colorado. My 27 year old Jeep has no body rust on it, and it's not lived a privileged life.

My experience over 35 years here in Colorado is a well insulated garage is sufficient. If no insulation is installed (like an out-building), ventilation should be installed. The worst possible type of building to put a vehicle or anything else of value in is a commercial storage locker. Colorado temperature swings of 40 degrees are not uncommon, and an uninsulated unventilated building (especially metal) will create condensation and cause problems.

 

Nope. Dry climate here, and we dont use salt on the roads. Also, Colorado sucks. Please consider moving to another state.

 

Really...interesting. I had no idea. I thought it was rainy and snowy. Well scratch all of that I guess.