How much does A/C impact mpg on our GLs?
The last two tanks however, I got ~315miles. I know running the A/C will guzzle more gasoline, but this difference seems a bit much.
I know both numbers are terrible, but this is mostly local driving and waiting on the car line to pick the kids up, etc.
Please share some insight!
The last two tanks however, I got ~315miles. I know running the A/C will guzzle more gasoline, but this difference seems a bit much.
I know both numbers are terrible, but this is mostly local driving and waiting on the car line to pick the kids up, etc.
Please share some insight!

The compressor is more efficient, but it is still driven off the engine and takes energy. The AC load on vehicles and the energy that the AC systems consume is a hot topic currently, as is the change of the refrigerant that is inside the system. Greenhouse gases and the related emissions from vehicles running AC contribute to the ozone reduction (not Al Gore's movie, real science). And I stated CONTRIBUTING!
Wait until we're all forced to use start/stop systems (see future Mercedes vehicle plans!) and it's summer in the city! Then you'll see how nice that AC is and how easy it is to pay that mileage penalty.
Question: Does the compressor consume the same 'energy' when the AC is operated at 74F v/s 60F?
I thought that the amount of energy consumed is the same, but the compressor turns 'off' when the set temperature is reached. It turns 'on' when the temperature rises a deg above the set temperature. This is wrong, I guess?
In general (to your example), if you use auto and set to a temperature the AC evaperator and heater core work in tandem with duct doors in the vehicle to vary the amount of cold and hot air so that your set point is reached. The AC system puts out a fixed temperature and the heater puts out a fixed temperature. It's only a series of valves (heater) and doors (AC) that blend the air together until a temp sensor in the vehicle tells the HVAC controller that the temperture set point has been reached. Then the compressor will stop until called for again.
I personally don't use the auto mode, as I prefer to choose when the compressor runs. In manual mode you can dictate the compressor on/off time.
Our driving patterns are very predictable. When we're not on vacation, there are always the same pick-ups, drop-offs, and drives to the mall, church, etc. All mostly local driving. We've ranged in the spring about 340-360mi for a tank. Now that AC season hit, we're at 310-320.
In general (to your example), if you use auto and set to a temperature the AC evaperator and heater core work in tandem with duct doors in the vehicle to vary the amount of cold and hot air so that your set point is reached. The AC system puts out a fixed temperature and the heater puts out a fixed temperature. It's only a series of valves (heater) and doors (AC) that blend the air together until a temp sensor in the vehicle tells the HVAC controller that the temperture set point has been reached. Then the compressor will stop until called for again.
I personally don't use the auto mode, as I prefer to choose when the compressor runs. In manual mode you can dictate the compressor on/off time.
Personally I set it on 60 degrees not on auto, and turn the fan speed down once its starts to get chilly in there. When I get really cold I'll turn the AC button off but still have the air recirculating, and then turn the AC button back on once I start to get warm again.
Also if nobody is riding in the back of the vehicle turn the rear air off, this will definately help with MPG because you wont have the fans and additional systems running at all back there.
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You are correct in that turning off rear air and such will keep more flowing to the front. But, the heater core doesn't consume power in the sense that it is taking the heat generated by the engine that is transferred to the coolant. The heater loop goes from the engine (heat transferred to the coolant), and runs through the heater core (to heat the cabin unless the heater core is not directed to the cabin or is shut off by a valve), and then to the radiator where the heat rejection takes the heat out of the coolant so that the coolant can go back to the engine to remove more heat, as a cooler fluid able to accept more heat.
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The last two tanks however, I got ~315miles. I know running the A/C will guzzle more gasoline, but this difference seems a bit much.
I know both numbers are terrible, but this is mostly local driving and waiting on the car line to pick the kids up, etc.
Please share some insight!

- Mark, lives in CA where gas is extortionately expensive so bought a diesel
It is not unreasonable at all look further into something that doesn't look or seem right.
It is not unreasonable at all look further into something that doesn't look or seem right.
- Mark
5- 10% loss when running ac is about right.
Parasitic drag is more pronounced at higher rpms... So less effect on diesel, more on gasoline engines.
Compressor is also decoupled at wot.
Heating does not use more energy directly. The only way it will waste gas is on a cold day when engine takes longer to reach op temp as the heater is suckingn heat to blow it into the cabin. Colder engines use more gas.
Best most efficient way to run climate control is to run on auto, but turn on/ off ac manually as needed. Generally if outside temp is less than 2 degrees cooler than requested cabin temp- turn off ac. In other words if cabin is set to 70 and outside is 68 or lower no ac is needed.
When ac is on compressor is cycled as needed. Generally when temp rises a degree or so the compressor is turned on and when the temp drops a degree it is turned off. Thus the lower the target temp the moreoften the compressor is turned on.
Thanks, Big Corn Lobby!
- Mark






