Got a screw on a my 20" Runflat tire, can it be patched or plugged like regular tire or the tire has to be replaced(dealer states it has to be replaced). Found couple of thread on this topic but they are mixed.

 

If it isn't near the sidewall and is something simple like a nail through the tread area, then getting it plugged/patched should be fine. Find a shop used to working with RFT tyres and make sure they use a plug-patch combination for the repair.
Bish

 

I have plugged my runflats myself a couple of times. Dealer said they cannot patch or plug. BS!! I am not paying $300 to replace a tire EVERY time there is a screw or nail in it. I Keep a plug kit ($4) in my GL for emergencies.

 

Check the zippered binder that your owners manual comes in. There should be warranty information about the tires as well as information about plugging/patching the tires. The Goodyear booklet specifically states that the tires can be plugged/patched. I have heard that the Bridgestone tires should only be replaced.

 

I put a plug in bridgstone last weekend. No problem. Nail was in the middle of the tire between the treads.

 

Last evening I noticed that my right rear tire on my 2011 GL450 with OEM run flats (don't know why they put run flats on gas models with a spare in the first place) has a nail on it sticking out. The nail is on the tread but right on the edge and goes in the sidewall. From moving it I can tell that it goes inside the rubber for about half inch or so. It hasn't lost any air pressure at all, and I haven't pulled it out in fear of making it worse. The car drives normally and there is no nail head sticking out.

I took the car to three larger tire shops (chains) in the area open on a Sunday, and all three told me that it can't be plugged or patched. They said that I need a new tire, and then they all said that I need all 4 tires replaced because it is a 4wd model and the treadwear should be similar all around. My car (and tires) have a total of 12K on them (I bought the car as a CPO with 6K miles from MB dealer about 5 months ago).

I am one of the run flat haters and have read a lot about their shortcomings regarding noise etc. I just cannot justify the fact that to continue to have run flat capability I need to replace all 4 tires in 12K miles... Doesn't that defeat the purpose of having them to begin with???

I will be calling my dealer tomorrow in hopes that there is something they can do (replace/repair etc), and I will go from there having as a last resort full replacement of all 4 tires with non-run flats. I keep wondering if a local tire shop will plug this tire for me so that I can wait and see what happens. If it goes flat then it does. If not then I can keep it another 8K miles and get rid of the crappy tires altogether. (I was told the tread currently is at 7/32" all around). I think (as mentioned earlier) there is a liability issue here that makes the larger shops not wanting to plug their run flats. Also there is a huge business opportunity to prematurely sell new $550 a piece tires to soccer dads and moms...

I am sorry for the rant, but I am very frustrated! Especially because I had asked my salesman when I bought the car "Are these run flats?" and he had replied. "No they are not. Only diesels have run flats." which made sense to me at the time due to the placement of the Adblue tank. A couple of weeks later I saw on the sidewall the impring "Run On Flat" on each tire!!!

Any suggestions are welcomed.

 

Try putting some water with detergent mixed in on the nail head. Gently wiggle it with some pliers. If it is punctured you'll see bubbles immediately. If you don't see any, I would leave it alone and just keep an eye on it until you need to replace tires.

 

Such a nail is a clear source of unreliability. Don't play with it or leave the nail in.

Although you "should not" repair the tyre, I sympathise with you and would try a plug. But if any vibes occur, replace it immediately.

And even if the others are worn, there is no need to replace all four provided you match the make and model. If you cannot, then replace both tyres on the same axle. The ABS etc can compensate for small variations.

 

But if he doesn't have a hole all the way through, he will damage the tire sidewall further by ramming the tire plug tool into the sidewall and further separating the rubber. If the nail is in only a half inch, a plug won't do much good. They are meant to go all the way through to the inside of the tire which is what keeps them from coming out. And, you should really use a reaming tool to make sure that the hole for the plug is the correct size. I would only plug it if it is leaking air.

It is hard for us to tell how bad the puncture is without seeing it and even then, my understanding is that Goodyear recommends that the tire be taken off the rim and inspected for internal damage before patching. Some chains by the way will not patch a tire regardless of the puncture location. They are in the business of selling tires. My MB dealership plugs and patches them all the time so I have been told. Your call.

 

I tend to be a nail magnet and have safely patched my Run Flats several times (different tires not several patches on one tire) I was told taking the tire off and patching was better than plugging so that is what I did. Never had any problems

 

I picked up a nail a couple of weeks ago in my subaru. Plugged it myself in five munutes. I agree on the shops not wanting to take responsibility. I can understand that. At the same time make sure it is safe. No point saving a couple of dollars, or times 4, couple of dollars. Your truck is expensive and so is the cargo.
I did however move the troubled tire to the back, just in case. And i do have a spare. I also keep a handy extra snow tire on rim close.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1345470621

 

if not near the sidewall... patch away.

done it many many times never had a problem.

 

Just to update the thread: I took the car to my MB dealer yesterday. They said the tire could not be repaired and recommend replacing it so I had them do it. Interestingly they said nothing about replacing two, or all four tires as the three tire shops I visited prior did. I asked the dealer mechanic and he said the tread depth of all tires was at 9/32 which allowed for only one to be replaced. Interestingly the one other shop that measured the tread found it a 7/32... I guess they wanted to sell me tires!

So in summary, I learned that if I have to drive over a nail, I should avoid sidewalls and aim for the middle of the tread!!! Also I reaffirmed my hate for run flat tires!

Thanks guys.

 

worn out tires can be checked easily and you should really allow nobody to tell you that they are worn out unless you checked and confirmed yourself.

every modern street tire has what is called "wear bars". those are little bumps molded into the deepest thread - usually in the water channels that run along the whole tire. as the tire wears down the wear bars "raise" and when the wear bars become flush with the tire surface around them- it is time for new tires. if there is a detectable edge- there is still life left in the tire. however, pay attention as tires might have wear bars at multiple offsets off the center of the tire and you have to check the ones on both edges (there are four
clearly seen on the pic on the left- you need to check at least the left and the right-most ones).
using your fingers you can usually tell very quickly how worn out a tire is and how it wears compared to the other 3 tires.

 

We also found ourselves with a roofing nail in the middle of the tire, in between the treads. We're losing air slowly and have it to fill up the tire every 8 hours. We want to plug it ourselves. Has anyone done this with the Continental 19" Fun flat tires? Can it be plugged while on the car and still full of air? Thx!

 

I suggest you take it to your local tire shop. To properly plug it you need to deflate tire and remove it. To properly do the job since you are losing air you need to remove the tire from the rim and also patch from inside. IMO not a DIY unless you know what you are doing and have equipment.

 

At your own risk:

Go to your local auto store. Get a plug kit. It has two t- handles, glue and plug sticks.

Remove nail with pliers. Tire will deflate. Roughen the hole with the abrasive t- handle. Dont be shy insert plug in the other t- handle. Apply glue to plug (or follow directions on package). Insert plug half way in the tire, turn handle 90 degrees and remove. Cut sticking piece of plug as needed. Inflate tire.

Drive around. If losing air- bring to shop. Otherwise you are done.

I've done this more times than I care to remember. If the puncture is bad- the plug will not hold and you will have to have it professionally done anyway.

Do not go to track with said tire (hopefully not an issue with the gl)

 

I have repaired lots of my own tire(s). Personally every tire repair is different. I will take responsibility for my own car and my own repair. Every state and province has its own regulation. I plug and don't patch mine. I believe in Ontario it is Plug and Patch.

below is a safecar.gov website stuff I quickly found.


http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shop...ng/Tire+Repair

Tire Repair
A plug by itself is not an acceptable repair.
The proper repair of a punctured tire requires a plug for the hole and a patch for the area inside the tire that surrounds the puncture hole. The repair material used - for example, a “combination patch and plug” repair - must seal the inner liner and fill the injury to be considered a permanent repair.

Punctures through the tread can be repaired if they are not too large, but punctures to the sidewall should not be repaired.

Tires must be removed from the rim to be properly inspected before being plugged and patched.

 

Ive plugged my RF's on my SRT8 , no problem. The manufactor , or dealer will never condone it since the integrity of the tire is compromised, and they won't accept liability. You'll be ok as long as its holding air and of course it's not the sidewall.

 

Hello - I believe this nail is closer to the tread and should be simply patchable?

This is a run-flat tire that th
e GLC300 comes with...

 

"Closer" to the tread? It IS in the tread! Yes, patchable.

 

Lol... see where it says continental on the sidewall? That is where you don't want any punctures any surface contacting the road is fair game for plugging.

 

Some run flats have a warning message on them saying they cannot be patched/plugged. If your tire has that, but the puncture is in the middle of the tread (like the photo above), then buy a $5 kit and do it yourself. There is little danger in doing it and it's generally pretty easy. Most places won't plug/patch a tire if it has that warning on it, but your corner gas station may not care.

If you don't have the warning, then you can still patch it yourself, but I recommend that you then drive the car (at your leisure) to a shop and have it patched properly with a 'mushroom' patch, which is essentially a patch/plug combo, done from inside the tire. Usually costs about $25.

Finally, if you have a tire that needs to be replaced but you don't want to replace all 4, you can find places online that will shave a new tire down to a specific depth so that it matches. Generally places that will shave tires also sell racing tires, because racers sometimes have to use street compound tires but don't want all that tread which just heats up and causes tread squirm. Anyway, I'm pretty sure Tire Rack does shave tires, you just need to call on the phone and ask; you need to know the tread depth that you want the tire shaved to. In fact, they do: http://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Shaving