GL450 X164 few upgrades with Part Numbers
#51
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mushroom Country, PA
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2014 ML350 Bluetec
#53
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#54
i found a good deal for the Amg pedals at WWW.dealerfit
happened to be cheaper than going to a local dealer...here in dfw TX area.. ran about $120 total..got em in 3 days and installed in 10 minutes without tools...OEM merc...sport pedals are what merc calls em.
great thread...thx a million..
happened to be cheaper than going to a local dealer...here in dfw TX area.. ran about $120 total..got em in 3 days and installed in 10 minutes without tools...OEM merc...sport pedals are what merc calls em.
great thread...thx a million..
#55
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Thread Starter
looks bad? alot of people like it... including my self, I respect your opinion, maybe on a S or CLS will brake the nice roof line but not on a "4x4" GL SUV
#58
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2016 E550 Cab & 2011 GL 550 & 09 VROD Muscle & 06 Seadoo Speedster LE .......
everything i have except for hood fins n that rear trunk mat.....these look like i need to order....did pedals n door sills ...everything else comes standard with GL 550
#60
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Thread Starter
Hitch parts :
1) 666 480 53 hitch, include hitch, stiff bars, bolts, relay + 3 fuses (harness not included)
2) 164 440 64 34 (harness)
3) B668 801 67 (SS Skid plate with hitch option, this plate is not the one sorround tail pipes)
or
4) 164 885 24 22 (SS Skid plate with hitch option, this plate extend / surround tail pipes, check what you have)
5) A0205 454 026 trailer female plug, this part is included with hitch purchase, I added just in case you need part number
6) 164 900 5401 Rear SAM, you need rear SAM upgrade for most 2007 & some 2008 early models, late 2008 model may not need new SAM, 2009 + no need new SAM
After extensive search, compare, think, consult, ask, think again, compare again, think about safety I decide between aftermarket-factory.
I pick factory one, yes, price is triple but... options was :
curt class 3 model 13102, ebay price is around $230
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Curt-Class-3...eebf04&vxp=mtr
or
Factory Mercedes Benz Hitch, price around $800
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...64860a&vxp=mtr
Why I pick factory one (my own conclusion)
1) I like Mercedes genuine parts.
2) Mercedes Benz hitch is rated at 5,000LBS aftermarket to 3,000 Lbs, yes you can have a small boat or trailer now, but what happened if you get a bigger one later? you will hate have hitch limitations
3) No stiff bars attach to the hitch (aftermarket)
4) To install aftermarket hitch you don't need to remove the rear bumper support crash bar reinforcement, hitch is attach to this reinforcement, no stiff bars
5) With Factory hitch you replace the rear bumper support crash bar reinforcement, is not a double weight (hitch + bar reinforcement) also since hitch replace the crash bar reinforcement I believe I will have more rear end collision protection, you will see pictures later on...
6) Like the factory look, no Uhaul hitch look
7) piece of mind
1) 666 480 53 hitch, include hitch, stiff bars, bolts, relay + 3 fuses (harness not included)
2) 164 440 64 34 (harness)
3) B668 801 67 (SS Skid plate with hitch option, this plate is not the one sorround tail pipes)
or
4) 164 885 24 22 (SS Skid plate with hitch option, this plate extend / surround tail pipes, check what you have)
5) A0205 454 026 trailer female plug, this part is included with hitch purchase, I added just in case you need part number
6) 164 900 5401 Rear SAM, you need rear SAM upgrade for most 2007 & some 2008 early models, late 2008 model may not need new SAM, 2009 + no need new SAM
After extensive search, compare, think, consult, ask, think again, compare again, think about safety I decide between aftermarket-factory.
I pick factory one, yes, price is triple but... options was :
curt class 3 model 13102, ebay price is around $230
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Curt-Class-3...eebf04&vxp=mtr
or
Factory Mercedes Benz Hitch, price around $800
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...64860a&vxp=mtr
Why I pick factory one (my own conclusion)
1) I like Mercedes genuine parts.
2) Mercedes Benz hitch is rated at 5,000LBS aftermarket to 3,000 Lbs, yes you can have a small boat or trailer now, but what happened if you get a bigger one later? you will hate have hitch limitations
3) No stiff bars attach to the hitch (aftermarket)
4) To install aftermarket hitch you don't need to remove the rear bumper support crash bar reinforcement, hitch is attach to this reinforcement, no stiff bars
5) With Factory hitch you replace the rear bumper support crash bar reinforcement, is not a double weight (hitch + bar reinforcement) also since hitch replace the crash bar reinforcement I believe I will have more rear end collision protection, you will see pictures later on...
6) Like the factory look, no Uhaul hitch look
7) piece of mind
Last edited by wally AMG; 01-27-2013 at 02:00 AM.
#62
Super Member
Thread Starter
#63
Super Member
Thread Starter
O.k I like to go step by step how to install trailer hitch, like always..... I like to share my experiences...
1) Remove Rear bumper Skid plate, I use a T35, you can remove most bolst using just the T35 tool, a couple I need stick my hand behind with a 10 mm wrench to hold the nut to remove the screw, make sure to use a towel, cardboard or anything soft because if you drop the skid plate you will scratch or ding this expensive piece, if you decide to replace with the hitch option skid plate you can sale yours to get some money back don't you think? If you don't have a Skid plate skip to step #2 pic. show holes after remove Skid plate, the good, if you order the hitch option Skid plate you will use exactly the same holes....
1) Remove Rear bumper Skid plate, I use a T35, you can remove most bolst using just the T35 tool, a couple I need stick my hand behind with a 10 mm wrench to hold the nut to remove the screw, make sure to use a towel, cardboard or anything soft because if you drop the skid plate you will scratch or ding this expensive piece, if you decide to replace with the hitch option skid plate you can sale yours to get some money back don't you think? If you don't have a Skid plate skip to step #2 pic. show holes after remove Skid plate, the good, if you order the hitch option Skid plate you will use exactly the same holes....
#65
Super Member
Thread Starter
3) Now is the good one... remove the bumper, Piece of $%#&@ everything was easy but I spend 30-45 minutes trying to pull the bumper out... I will save you time showing you how to do it... showing you where are the bolts !!
Use a 10mm tool, wherever is your preference, remove bolts from lower balance (at bottom part) that secure balance to the SUV, you will see it, if you don't see it.... stop, call a body shop and ask if they can install a hitch for you...
Use a 10mm tool, wherever is your preference, remove bolts from lower balance (at bottom part) that secure balance to the SUV, you will see it, if you don't see it.... stop, call a body shop and ask if they can install a hitch for you...
#67
Super Member
Thread Starter
5) Remove wheel liner plastic rivets behind the rear tire, you will see, 3 rivets just behind the tire, also one more rivet right in the lower part, at the bottom, yes right in the corner where the liner end... where the red circle is... remove the rivets in both sides... when you remove the rivets remove everything, not just the pins, if you don't know how to remove it have some extras, you may need replace it..
Last edited by wally AMG; 01-29-2013 at 11:31 PM.
#69
Super Member
Thread Starter
#70
Super Member
Thread Starter
6) Open your trunk, on each side remove the passenger side rear fuse panel access door, also remove rear driver side panel where the emergency kit is, then twist the upper small plastic bolts where the emergency kit box is, the top ones, remove the black box complete.
Use a 10mm socket, remove screw that is located on each side, (I circle bolts) first picture show driver side, second one show passenger side.
Use a 10mm socket, remove screw that is located on each side, (I circle bolts) first picture show driver side, second one show passenger side.
#71
Super Member
Thread Starter
7) After remove bolts, remove plastic rivets you can get another drink... if you are not 21+ please get a soda or water, if you are 90+ please get a coffee !
#72
Super Member
Thread Starter
8) OK pay attention ! this is the point where I can save you time, I waist my time to save your time !! you need to remove 4 more bolts, what you need to do first is separate the wheel liner (from rear tires) from the bumper edge, like this... be patience.
#74
Super Member
Thread Starter
10) After separate the liner try to look at the upper part bumper corner, you will see a 10mm bolt, use a socket with extension, remove bolts (one on each side), BTW I just stick my hand to find the bolt, you don't really need to look the bolts.... bolt are in vertical position... picture show the bumper, but I circle the location of bolt, jus behind the wheel liner, in the upper part... you got it?
#75
Super Member
Thread Starter
11) OK I should charge for this tip !! this is the step that I spend most time, after remove the bumper bolts, I pull the bumper out, nothing... look all edges... nothing look attach.... but guess what? after 30 minutes of looking (be have, I am not a mechanic or a body shop person, this is a DIY Sunday project) I found the &%*$@ nuts, you need a 10mm socket with extension, they are two bolts located just by the back side of taillights, if you see a frame circle hole, stick your fingers right there, nothing will bite you, I promise, you will feel the $%^#& long nuts. remove with a socket... check pic... note that this tool look like screw driver have a socket, this tool point from the front of you GL to the rear, nut is exactly in the middle.
Last edited by wally AMG; 01-30-2013 at 03:25 PM.