DIY GL 350 Cabin Air Filter, Engine Air Filters, and Diesel Fuel Filter
The DIY Guide over there works perfectly for the GL 350 too - everything is exactly the same. I searched around in the GL forum and didn't find anything as good over here.
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...e-warning.html
On the rear and front differential I used Fuchs gear oil from euro parts San Diego.
Transfer case gets MB 134 ATF, and again its 12/liter at sprinter dealer as opposed to 17 at regular Benz car dealer
I'm not too excited about trying to drop the pan on the GL without a lift - am I missing something?
I know from the parts department there are three different and incompatible diesel filters for the GL 350 depending on your build date - now that I've written down the part number for mine, I can find a more cost effective sourcing solution than taking the old one to the parts department the next time around...
Also i did the transmission and differentials myself. Not difficult, just somewhat time consuming. I put the GL in the garage on a Friday night, got up Saturday morning for a warm up and drained fluid. The only special tools are the same pump you used for brake flush (motive), trans pan adaptor and infra red thermometer. I ended up with 8.3 l flushed including torque converter. I did it all for about 150 bucks with OE fluid, filter, gasket and pan bolts (one time use magnesium bolts).
I totally enjoyed doing this taking my time, cleaning everything well and knowing torque converter was drained which dealer says is not necessary. I will post link of DIY I used also for reference on the 722 transmission.
You can use the motive pump to fill diffs also. Easy. I think since I tow heavy weight I am going to include this to my 20k interval.
Giving the GL some mechanical love, using my Hazet tools and hanging in the garage on a Saturday is as good as it gets for me, a needed diversion for busy work weeks.
Also i did the transmission and differentials myself. Not difficult, just somewhat time consuming. I put the GL in the garage on a Friday night, got up Saturday morning for a warm up and drained fluid. The only special tools are the same pump you used for brake flush (motive), trans pan adaptor and infra red thermometer. I ended up with 8.3 l flushed including torque converter. I did it all for about 150 bucks with OE fluid, filter, gasket and pan bolts (one time use magnesium bolts).
I totally enjoyed doing this taking my time, cleaning everything well and knowing torque converter was drained which dealer says is not necessary. I will post link of DIY I used also for reference on the 722 transmission.
You can use the motive pump to fill diffs also. Easy. I think since I tow heavy weight I am going to include this to my 20k interval.
Giving the GL some mechanical love, using my Hazet tools and hanging in the garage on a Saturday is as good as it gets for me, a needed diversion for busy work weeks.
Definitely interested in your DIY instructions... let me know once they are posted.
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A few things I noted during the process are:
- I wasn't sure where to get the correct fuel filter and went with the lazy but more expensive way - Mann filter WK820/14 from dealership for $155 + tax.
- dealership has CLIC clamps for $1.50 each. I picked up 2 just in case. Did not need them in the end.
- my GL350 has a stabilization cross bar above the engine, had to remove it using E14 socket and 5/8 flat wrench. Flat wrench is necessary because sockets won't fit for one nut.
- I also had no choice but to remove a piece of firewall right on top of drivers side air box in order to take the box out.
- car did not start at first attempt, probably because fuel filter needs more time to get primed. Turned off, started again with no hesitation.
- both air filter and cabin filters are dirtier than what I imagined, surprisingly.
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Failure to do so will result in diminished performance as well as corrupt service requirement calculations
where is this done? I only see full service or pad replacement in the service menu?











