GL500 2007 Fuel pump and filer locations
05-29-2016, 01:44 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
GL500 2007 Fuel pump and filer locations
Hi Everyone,
I am going to change the fuel pump and filter in my GL500 2007 (same as GL550 2008 in USA). Does anyone know where to access the pump. I believe both the filter and pump are located in the tank. Thank you for the help.
Matthew
I am going to change the fuel pump and filter in my GL500 2007 (same as GL550 2008 in USA). Does anyone know where to access the pump. I believe both the filter and pump are located in the tank. Thank you for the help.
Matthew
05-29-2016, 07:51 PM
#2
Senior Member
Hey Matthew. yes, they are both located in the tank. its kind of a labor intensive job. Let me find my notes or website that you can refer to. give me about a day to look for them.
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Harger99 (05-30-2016)
06-03-2016, 05:50 PM
#3
Senior Member
I did the fuel pump/filter replacement all by trial by fire. Lucky for me, it ended well. I will try my best to go through the process of replacing the filter/pump but I do have to tell you that it was a PITA. I search the entire web to try and find some help on this but there wasn't much but I did find this after I was done.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/EU..._fuel_pump.pdf
First of, aside from needing the Fuel filter and pump, you will also need a lock ring removal tool. I bought the Lisle 63000 for 40.00 from the local auto stort.
It worked great. No need to buy the expensive $183.00 fancy one. Plus it is adjustable so you can use it for other applications. Trust me when I say you need this. You will not be able to remove the lock ring without this. I even tried to fabricate one by welding some angle iron but it didn’t work to well.
As far as draining the fuel, I think I read somewhere to drive as long as you can to try and drain as much fuel as you can. Well, if you do this, there will be plenty of fuel vapor in there. Im not exactly sure on the safest way as if you leave it a full, there will be less room for fuel vapor and just the fuel itself. The vapor is the one that will probably get hurt. You shouldnt have the filter or the pump out too long anyway.
Change both the fuel filter and the fuel pump at the same time. You will find them under the left and right rear seats. I will not go into telling you how to remove the right rear seat as it is straight forward. Just remove the plastic covers and bolts. You will also need to lift up the carpet out of the way along with the metal platform and styrafoam. There are two connectors that you will need to disconnect before you can move the right seat out of the way. You will see the connectors under the 60% seat. Just be careful removing them. If you look close, you will see the very small detents that you will need to move with a very small screw driver or pick.
On the left rear seat, you just need to fold the bottom forward. Remove the carpeted cover and you will see a variety of ECUs. Unbolt them and slowly unplug them. They each had different style connectors so just go slowly to figure out how to remove them so not to break any of the plastic connectors.
On both sides, you will see round metal disks attached to the floor. You will need to break these loose. They are attached with some pretty tough adhesive. I had to use a hammer and chisel to get them loose. And no need to worry about a spark because the tank is sealed pretty good. Try not to damage the disks or the mounting surface so you can properly seal them again. This will be tough to do since it was very difficult to get it separated from the floor pan causing both the disk and the floor pan to bend. Once you have the disks out, use the lock ring tool to remove the filter and pump locking rings. Once you do that, it is fairly simple to remove and replace. Disconnect the wires. ****Also, after you disconnect the hoses and pull it thought to the other side, get a long piece twine and tie the hose ends. If you don’t do this, you will be very sorry as you will need to fish the hoses back through meaning you will probably need to stick your arm in the gas and find the hole that the hoses go through. After you tie the twine to the hose, you can now pull the hose out. Tie the new hose to the twine and pull it though. Put everything back together in reverse. I used some sealant before putting the disk back into place.
I tried to upload some pics but I have to wait to get home where my internet is faster.
That’s about it. If you have any questions, please ask.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/EU..._fuel_pump.pdf
First of, aside from needing the Fuel filter and pump, you will also need a lock ring removal tool. I bought the Lisle 63000 for 40.00 from the local auto stort.
It worked great. No need to buy the expensive $183.00 fancy one. Plus it is adjustable so you can use it for other applications. Trust me when I say you need this. You will not be able to remove the lock ring without this. I even tried to fabricate one by welding some angle iron but it didn’t work to well.
As far as draining the fuel, I think I read somewhere to drive as long as you can to try and drain as much fuel as you can. Well, if you do this, there will be plenty of fuel vapor in there. Im not exactly sure on the safest way as if you leave it a full, there will be less room for fuel vapor and just the fuel itself. The vapor is the one that will probably get hurt. You shouldnt have the filter or the pump out too long anyway.
Change both the fuel filter and the fuel pump at the same time. You will find them under the left and right rear seats. I will not go into telling you how to remove the right rear seat as it is straight forward. Just remove the plastic covers and bolts. You will also need to lift up the carpet out of the way along with the metal platform and styrafoam. There are two connectors that you will need to disconnect before you can move the right seat out of the way. You will see the connectors under the 60% seat. Just be careful removing them. If you look close, you will see the very small detents that you will need to move with a very small screw driver or pick.
On the left rear seat, you just need to fold the bottom forward. Remove the carpeted cover and you will see a variety of ECUs. Unbolt them and slowly unplug them. They each had different style connectors so just go slowly to figure out how to remove them so not to break any of the plastic connectors.
On both sides, you will see round metal disks attached to the floor. You will need to break these loose. They are attached with some pretty tough adhesive. I had to use a hammer and chisel to get them loose. And no need to worry about a spark because the tank is sealed pretty good. Try not to damage the disks or the mounting surface so you can properly seal them again. This will be tough to do since it was very difficult to get it separated from the floor pan causing both the disk and the floor pan to bend. Once you have the disks out, use the lock ring tool to remove the filter and pump locking rings. Once you do that, it is fairly simple to remove and replace. Disconnect the wires. ****Also, after you disconnect the hoses and pull it thought to the other side, get a long piece twine and tie the hose ends. If you don’t do this, you will be very sorry as you will need to fish the hoses back through meaning you will probably need to stick your arm in the gas and find the hole that the hoses go through. After you tie the twine to the hose, you can now pull the hose out. Tie the new hose to the twine and pull it though. Put everything back together in reverse. I used some sealant before putting the disk back into place.
I tried to upload some pics but I have to wait to get home where my internet is faster.
That’s about it. If you have any questions, please ask.
Last edited by angelglo; 10-28-2017 at 05:23 PM.
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05-28-2017, 08:29 PM
#5
Member
Sooo, I have fuel leaking from the top of the tank on the drivers side of my GL 320. It appears from your tutorial that I can access the fuel tank top from under the rear seat. Right now my garage stinks of diesel.
10-28-2017, 05:28 PM
#7
Senior Member
The left rear can stay put. the right rear has a few bolts that will be easy to spot if you just look under the seat.
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backdoc4you (11-14-2017)
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2012 Mercedes GL350
Trying to remove rear passenger side seat
i know it’s been a while since last post on this thread and everything is so throughly described, and I feel like a fool asking this but.... I’m trying to get to the fuel pump on my 2012 gl350 and I’ve removed the bolts that hold the seat down ( passenger side rear ) and it wiggles with ease but I can’t get it off, I feel like it should be something as easy as pulling the seat forward or something, but nothing I do works. I’m ripping my hair out and about to give up and take a grinder to it.😓😖😭😡🤬🤯 please someone help!
