It started with a slight smell of burned diesel fuel in the cabin. I traced it to one of the injectors on the passenger side (middle one). Saw carbon build up (aka: the Black Death), heard tiny huffing sound, and it was smelling when hood was open
Here are the steps:
Create space: remove turbo air intake, remove filter air box, I even removed the bar connecting both fender strut humps, and the upper metal shroud, because my rear injector is next.
Tools: schley 12200 diesel injector puller, 17mm open end wrench (cut in half so that I can swing without hitting the fender well, also thinned on one end so that I can grab the injector nut and have space for it to spin the nut a little). Get a good carbon remover to spray, don’t remember the brand I used, have to look it up later when I get home.
Spare parts:
1. Tiny o-ring for the top of the pipe where the return fuel line clicks. They are bridle many times from years of heat. Put a new one they are cheap. Yes, you have to hear GOOD snap when putting the return fuel line back, 1st time I heard a snap when putting it back but I guess it was not GOOOOD snap, as small fuel was leaking later. I then pulled out, then snapped back in, then it was seal proof.
**Note: Here is how you know it was a good install, once it is clicked back, if the round plastic ring does not spin very-very easy, then it is not snapped well.
2. New copper washers from Honda. Yes, the 2.2L diesel in Europe uses the same injectors and per some other posts, users have reported that the seals do a better job. I compared them and the Honda was I twice as thick, so the theory is that it squishes and seals better and it is softer. I bought into that theory and got the Honda one, after all the Japanese make better things of everything, right?
**Note: make sure you install the seal properly, the flat side goes towards the injector, the curved side towards the cylinder!!! The Honda one is almost flat on both sides, almost!

3. New injector hold down bolt – yes it has to be new as they stretch
The injector puller is a sliding weight on a rod and the end is a part that screws on top of the injector. I did not have to soak my injector, but my carbon was still soft, so I caught it early. However, ideally you have to extend the rod, I welded and extension as the wheel well is in the way, for sure it won’t work on the back injector with the original rod, for the middle and front it will be ok. I did not remove the entire fuel return line, I just popped off the nipple for the injector I was working off (the middle one) and moved it back slightly.
Make sure you clean the injector seat, it should be shiny before putting a new one. I used a seat cutter, only 25$ on ebay but did not work as it was slightly too wide (maybe bought the wrong one). Instead I attached a 600 grit sand paper to a 10mm socket with an extension and spun it few times. That cleaned it good. However, I have now filed the seat cutter so on my next injector I will use it, I hope. I used a cheap cell phone inspection camera from Amazon, use a free App from the store, to inspect the injector seat, works ok!
I coated the injector with anti-seize, after it was cleaned well, then installed it back.
Here is the tricky part, how much do you torque the injector bolt?? I did some research and saw different numbers posted by people. I am about to ask the question here in a speared thread. I did 7lbs + 90 degrees, then it felt it was not much, so I added another 30 degrees. I blew my XP PC where the repair manual was loaded so I currently don’t have access to verity the torque. I hope some of you know!
That is all, ask questions if you have any!

 

I have my vehicle in for service with one nasty injector. These sound like what I will need. Can you please post a part number for honda seal and where ordered from ?

Thank you.
Steve

 

Here are the part numbers for the honda seals, o-rings and the bolts which I recently purchased form ebay. The 6 bolts (the white/red box pic) came with the MB washer/seals and are made in Germany. When it comes to the honda seals, it looks like a UK site sold it to me, not sure if it still exists but if you google the name on my receipt you will find them on the web including on ebay from UK sellers

 

Update: I left alone my rear injector at the time, I had black gunk around it when I purchased the car few years ago but it had sealed itself and was not leaking . However, 2 days ago I started smelling exhaust in the cabin, I looked and saw that rear injector now leaking, even visible smoke/air was coming out. I pulled it last nigh, it came out a lot-lot easier than the middle one but I did one thing different. Since the injector had black gunk for a long time, I was worried it was really stuck, so 1st warmed up the car, then shut it off, then I loosened the hold down bolt, then fired up the engine again for 1min . The idea is that the pressure exercised on the injector will loosen it a little when the bolt holding it is loose. I am not sure if that is why it came out easier or not but I though I should mention this trick. Although the injector had leaked few years ago the seat looked clean, no need to re-cut, so tonight I will reinstall it and hope all will work well again for me.

 

Follow up: ...reinstalled the injector, few days of driving now, all is good : ). BTW, did few tests since I had extra washers and bolts, and time. I wanted to see how the washers seal squishes and if the bolt stretches. 1st I used the Honda washer, I tightened it to 7lbs + 90 +30 degrees, I also measured the bolt length with a digital caliper and installed the injector. Then I removed the injector and inspected the bolt and washer, the length of the bolt had not changed - yes, not any bit longer!!??, and the Honda seal looked like it barely had any marks on it. I expected more visible squish, or marks, etc, you could barely tell it was used - very strange!? Since the bolt had not stretched I used it again to install the injector one more time but this time for the 2nd test where I was using the MB washer. Same process to install, then I removed and inspected again. This time the bolt had stretched slightly, not much but the caliper recorded a stretch - ha??. The MB washer did not have any visible signs of being squished, just like the honda washer, but the marks showing a round print pattern where it was pressing against the hole were slightly more visible compered to the Honda seal. Anyway, I am not sure what to conclude from my tests, you decide for yourself , but since my previous injector work was holding for 6 months now, I again used the Honda washer and called it "good". : ) I am getting pretty good at that job now - good luck guys!

 

Update: few weeks now and few trips to the snowy mountains, injector seals are holding up. As an FYI, when you tighten the bolts to spec, it does not really seem like you exert a lot of torque. It seems unreal that the bolt will hold that much pressure from the cylinder, but I guess we just have to trust it and in reality it does not take much to seal them. .. or it is on the contrary, the design is poor and that is why they fail eventually : ). One of my injectors lasted 120k, maybe that is not bad!?, most are still going strong with the factory installation.

 

I seem to have 2 white tabs and nothing to sqeeze

I wonder if you can help me, I am desperately trying to remove the return fuel line from the top of the injectors, I have viewed everyone else that are doing the same job but I seem to have a different T connector . See my photos.

 

I have never see this type of connector. But from the pictures, I think you just grab it from the side by the two vertical plastic "things" that stick out and spin it to the left (unlock). .. Then pull up. It looks like the body spins independent from the round cap on top.That is what I would try.

 

Harry, I have no idea as I've never done this, but if Johny's method doesn't seem to work... Can you squeeze the white plastic tabs with needle nose pliers? Do the white tabs actually depress inwards? If so, then either try pulling straight up or spin.

 

Yes, indeed you many hove to squeeze them then spin. You for sure have to spin it , you can see the lock and arrow picture on the top. you can see the spin stop form the side view, it is only a 3-4mm spin travel , form what it looks like. You could also pretend you will buy a return line at the dealer, have the parts guy pull one out for you to examine and make sure it fits, then play with it at the counter, and tell the guy you have to check one thing and get back to him.. : )

 

Thanks guys you were right it's turn the barrel anticlockwise 90 degrees. I have a further problem with the fuel filter see picture. The silvers lumps on the turbo pipe stop the fuel filter coming out. I have looked at videos on here and they don't have the lumps, does Mercedes want me to remove the turbo pipe to change the filter

 

Yes, it looks like you have to remove the pipe. What spec is your car , US? Europe?, I have never seen such thing.

 

It is Canadian spec or US to be precise.

Now i need to know how to remove the front plastic cover in front of the belts without breaking it so I can remove the silver intake pipe.

 

Dear friend,
ı just read your topic about your MB with the injector. I have a similar problem. Can you help me on that?
​​​​​My GL 320 cdi 2007 model year and had 200000 km. When the car is at idle about more than 5 minutes or ı drive downhill for long time when ı accelerate it gives bad smell to inside and white/blue smoke from the pipes. I guess that injector seals or o rings has to be replaced.. Do ı think right?

When the car is normal driving on the road and normal or deep accellerate no any smoke or nothing.

I want to solve the matter with some easy practice otherwise it will be big trouble for me ı guess. Need to know about your experiences on that issue please.

​​​​​​​Thanks in advance.

 

I don't believe that a leaking injector will change the way your car smokes from the exhaust. I assume that when you say "white/blue smoke from the pipes" you mean the exhaust tail pipe after the muffler, right? If the leak is beyond a certain gap, when you open the hood, and remove the plastic cover , you might see smoke around the injectors (left or right) as the engine is running, along with a huffing sound. Sometimes, when the gap is smaller, no smoke will come out. If you remove the foam over the injectors (you need to remove the intake filter housing for that) , you could then lean over and with a flash light inspect for trails of leaked black stuff, which is diesel fuel carbonizing and collecting around the injector, then you know an injector it leaking for sure.

 

Dear Johny, yes the smoke is coming from the pipes after muffler as I see from the rear window while ı accelerate. Than it stops in about 1 minute. Also the bad smell is stops. I also believe if there is a problem about my EGR or DPF sensors. We cleaned the EGR but it was not so dirty. But this problem still occuring.
I will also make the test by take off the plastic cover and check with the light. I think the good time it will be when its in dark place or in the evening time.

During this time, ı also used Liqui Moly incjector cleaners and also changed my oil with liqui moly 5/30 long life and ceratec oil additive. Still nothing is changed. Im afraid if the problem is the valve seals.. It will be a drama for me with my GL..

Kindly comments.
Thanks.

 

Hi all, as all remember ı was having white smoke problem from my GL 320 CDI after Long idle.

Problem was the DPF due to often regenerations. Even its not blocked, it was trying to make regeneration very often and give too much diesel from the injectors. So it couldnt burn in the dpf than it was giving white smoke from pipes.

​​​​​​Yesterday we removed the EGR and DPF from my car. Now there is no issue with the white smoke. We also made a chip tuning with remapping and probably had 45 hp extra with these revisions. So now the car having 2 liters less consumption in highway. And performance is incredible.

Hope people can solve if they have same problems on their Mercedes.

Thanks for helps.
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Thanks for suggestion. Any suggestion for more protective oil? I used Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5/30 + ceratec oil additive. Should ı change to other one?

Thanks.

 

 

Mustafa..,
this is very good info in my case as I have been thinking to remove my egr and dpf. This is getting off topic to the original post, maybe we can start a new thread, not sure??.. Anyway, few questions I would love to know the answers to:
1. how did you remove the dpf, yoiu replaced with a straight pipe or your opened the dpf removed the core and re-welded. Did you leave the dpf sensors in place
2. did you leave the egr in place or you removed it?
3. did you gain the power by just deleting the dpf and egr from the ECM or you in addition tweaked the map to gain HP?
4. Which shop re-programmed the ecm, what is the cost.

Thx

 

 

ok, thx! I am actually about to replace my leaking oil cooler seal myself, clean the gunk, etc.. It is not too hard, just keeping track of parts and taking a long time : ).. we will see, I hope I will do it in the next 2 months..

 

Mustafa..,
just a quick follow up on the parts from CB that you used. It looks like the straight pipe for the dpf they sell is for a Jeep CRD. So that pipe fit the GL just fine without mods??.. , it also had the whole for the dpf sensor on it already, or you did not re-use the sensor. thx

 

Forgot to mention that I had an 2008. Green diesel only supports the cdi last time I checked. Would be interested if he has moved onto the BlueTec engine

as as far as CBC engineering they primarily focus on Jeeps. The Mercedes parts are in there. Probably best to contact him to make sure ordering the correct part.