My formerly crusher bound 2011 GL350 needs another dollar injection cuz I'm guessing the stance in the picture below is not normal. Even after being parked for ten plus days.


So, I'm guessing it's time for new front air struts. Starting a part search and it seems that the parts are different based on presence of ADS as an option or not. Not clear what ADS is (Adaptive Drive Suspension I'm guessing) but I am not seeing any evidence of it on the build sheet for my car. Only suspension related option is 489 AIRMATIC DUAL CONTROL / AIR SUSPENSION SEMI-ACTIVE.
Can anyone confirm how I determine if it has ADS or not? Suggestions for where to buy? I normally get stuff from FCP Euro but all I saw was a pair by Bilstein for over $2k and there have to be more cost effective alternatives by Arnott.

Attaching PDF of OEG if that can help speed things up. Going to look for videos to see how involved this is as a DIY.

Thanks in advance.

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post7406708

 

Thank you for that. No ADS. Install does not look all that daunting. This will be a DIY for me.

Couple more questions to the veterans if I may.
1. Is an alignment necessary after replacing these things? None of the DIY videos I looked at mention it. If yes to this then don't even bother with question 2.
2. Is it advised to replace both sides at once or are folks doing one corner at a time? I looked through the old paperwork and the stealer was replacing them one corner at a time back when they were failing while the thing was still under the extended warranty that was purchased when the car was new. I've always replaced that type of stuff in pairs and I'd replace both sides by default, but given this car was headed for the crusher and this is a bit of a budget winter beater, I want to fix what has to be fixed - no less and certainly no more.

Thanks in advance for responses. I appreciate the help as I navigate the needs of this poor car.

 

You are welcome!
No, an alignment is not needed.
It is best to replace in pairs but not necessary. You can get by replacing only one. But other one is not going to be far from failing if it is of same age. But if dealer was replacing one at a time, the other one might be newer and might last a bit long.

 

Thank you again. Looking at history, they failed 6 weeks 3k miles apart so I'll do both and be done. The replacement on left front corner lasted nearly the same mileage as the originals so that seems like planned obsolescence.
Now hopefully I can get the Arnotts from FCP at a reasonable price and then it's time to get dirty!

 

Whole front strut is surprisingly easy, for a non-ads car I’d recommend that vice trying to swap a new bag over.

if you had ADS, which you don’t, and the shock isn’t leaking; the bag swap is the most cost effective if you DIY it.

you can do one side at a time.

 

Oh thank you, I did not know that was an option and after looking at the install video, it looks doable.

 

I'm in the process of doing my right front. I would be easy except the last moron who did it had to prove he was Hercules when installing the bolt on the lower control arm and the sway bar. I don't know how tight he put ut but it took a small floor jack and a 1/2" breaker bar.

 

Yeah, some PB Blaster will be applied the night before.
I just ordered a new bag and probably going to look at tackling it this weekend. I am so not motivated to work on a car in the middle of winter...

 

Got the new Arnott bag installed. This is the video from Arnott for install instructions
What didn’t go so well
- The video makes this look so easy. I knew it wouldn’t be but at times I wanted to beat that dude with the strut. Like when he just pushes on the sway bar link with his thumb and it magically slides out.
- The installation part of the video is not 100% accurate due to new design of the bag. The pdf instructions are up to date though. No need to unplug the sensor from behind the
fender liner. And again, it’s not nearly as easy to disconnected as video boy makes it look.
- The sway bar link wouldn’t come off. Spent an hour just trying to get the devilish thing off. The bottom of the link finally popped and the top came off as well.
- The nut that holds the bag at the top of the strut was a treat too. The shaft was spinning so wedged a flathead screw driver on side of nut and used an Allen wrench to turn the shaft. Worked but need a second person to help. The bad news is my friend went a little heavy with Allen on the impact and the recess is rounded. Next time (if there is one) will require complete strut replacement for that side. I know it but the next guy might have a nasty surprise.
- Took way longer than I anticipated.
- That wheel is HEAVY! I thought the 19s on the X5 were bad but this weighs a ton and is crazy amount of rotational mass at each corner.

What went well.:
- The Arnott bag comes complete with new hardware and the tool to push down the top cap.
- it looks like they changed the design of the top cap. The new design should be more leak proof than the one that came off.
- Despite the struggles, was successful in the end.

Final thoughts:
- Have a buddy around from the start.
- That nut on top of strut shaft could make me think twice about doing the bag only vs. complete strut. When it’s time to do the right side I’ll go bag only again so I have matching components on both sides.
- the cost savings of bag only is undeniable. They can be had for as low as $100. The Arnott was $264 on Amazon (tax included). A complete strut is at least $600.
- The lifetime warranty and brand name was why I went with Arnott, hope it’s a durable piece.

 

That nut on the top of the bag is serviceable only with a quality impact tool. If you under tighten it you’ll have a knocking noise, if you over tighten it, well then You’ve just bought a complete new strut when this bag wears out. Sounds like a Somebody Else’s Problem.