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I installed a factory hitch on my '06 ML500 and when I got my 2015 GL350 it had the hitch installed, but not the wiring. I have a couple of questions. Is the first image what you have to install?
I installed a factory hitch on my '06 ML500 and when I got my 2015 GL350 it had the hitch installed, but not the wiring. I have a couple of questions. Is the first image what you have to install?
I don’t have any parts yet. But fist pic is how the cast iron longitudinal supports gets installed at least on an x164. The second just shows the same but all in pieces. The third is the part numbers of the cast iron pieces that are in question.
So you can install just the receiver in place of the impact bar (inner metal bumper on a non tow equipped) but suspect without the cast iron longitudinal pieces your tow rating greatly diminishes? But maybe I am wrong and the X166 does not use it at all? And the 8 studs on the receiver is sufficient? That’s my question. The frame box rails that support the impact bars with or without tow, I can’t imagine will take the punishment without the cast iron pieces reinforcing the structure.
I guess if you just want bikes or cargo boxes the 8 studs is sufficient. I can’t see under my to confirm if things changed and holes for the supports are even present.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Feb 27, 2021 at 09:56 AM.
I'd install the longitudinal supports. I'd hate to find out that the next owner of my car towed something at the rated capacity and killed someone when the whole assembly broke free. On my '06 ML the holes that bolted to those supports were accessed by removing the spare tire and the insert it sits in.
Thanks Jeff, I had read those in the past. But not going to dive into it like that. A simple light control is all I want from mine. I dont have any equipment (Boats etc) to tow. Just the typical bikes on a rack and fun weekend car breaking down at a car show or track, having to use a Uhaul car hauler they come with brakes that activate with inertia.
Im gonna assume the x166 does have these braces. That was my original curiosity. Bumper and exhaust need to come down to get to the bolts if that’s the case.
Made the decision to go aftermarket for the wiring. I’ll be doing the no splice kit to get my 4 light wires to work, then I plan on converting the 4 wire to a 7 wire plug at the hitch. The reason for the extra step is so that I can use a Curt Echo wireless brake controller. The controller just needs an additional +power wire from the vehicle battery and a circuit breaker in between. Since on a GL the fuse box is mid ship, I’m hoping the Tekonsha kit has enough battery wire to run two cables from the battery one fused to the Tekonsha light controller and one with a circuit breaker to the 7 pin connector for power to the brake controller. I will not be using reverse.
So the GLS without a tow hitch doesn't come equiped to tow 7700 lbs with just an aftermarket class 3/4 hitch?
If you don’t want to use the factory receiver and braces, Curt sells an aftermarket solution that will do 7k lbs but just like the factory installation it’s a little more involved. Curt also sells a more modest version, similar to installing just the factory reinforcement without the longitudinal bars.
I prefer factory hardware as it’s more stealthy and usually more rust resistant.
Below is the heavy duty hitch 13190 to maintain the 7000lbs capacity. Notice the brace that wraps around the exhaust to a support on the rear axle area.
Got all the parts lined up. And took off most the rear bumper fasteners, but I’m afraid I’m pulling the sides too much and fear breaking it. The 550 fender flairs are somehow secured where it meets the bumper. The line where it meets the quarter seems to just be clips. Any visual aids anyone can share?
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Mar 8, 2021 at 08:17 PM.
Got all the parts lined up. And taken off most the rear bumpers fasteners but I’m afraid I’m pulling the sides too much and fear breaking it. The 550 fender flairs are somehow secured where it meets the bumper. The line where it meets the quarter seems to just be clips. Any visual aids anyone can share?
Look for a T20 or T25 Torx screw holding the flair in place at the corners. It's hard to see but if I remember correctly you have to look from the ground upwards in that corner.
The hitch photo you shared in the first post is that of a defective hitch that was installed on some early X164 vehicles. You can spot those by those wimpy round safety chain loops. There was an MB recall to weld them as they would break off. I'd suggest you avoid those and just buy a next hitch MB put on X164 (which is pretty good). Hitch shown in post #6 is that hitch.
Thanks for the insight. The one on post 6 with the plate is the one I got so I should be ok.
The project has become a little involved. The little treasure box holding a suspension component needed to be moved to get to the last impact bar stud nut. Still I also hope I can do this without doing too much with the exhaust. The longitudinal bars seems to be secured from the spare tire compartment.
Taking my time with it. I don’t want broken plastics or hardware. I’m am a stickler for broken parts.
The red mark up is how I ran the two power wires one will go to the light controller and other one will go to the 7 pin connector to power a wireless brake controller in the future If ever needed.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Mar 6, 2021 at 07:40 PM.
They say pics are worth a 1,000 words. Hope it helps someone.
I only dropped the exhaust and undid the two rearmost exhaust shield fasteners, and force it it down to give access to the two lower nuts for the impact bar. Longitudinal braces bolt location Foam impact Reverse installation This bracket has to be moved to get to the treasure box.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Mar 10, 2021 at 11:21 AM.
Meanwhile, how did you manage to tighten the 4 lower bolts of the 2 hitch mounting plates (lower 2 of each plate)?
Isn't the heat shield on the way? I understand that the nuts of the bolts that hold the shield brackets and the hitch plates on the car, are actually behind the mounting points. Did you have enough space behind to fit a wrench?
Also did you use a torque wrench? If yes at what ft./lb or N/m specs?
The exhaust shield does need to be entirely removed I only removed the two rearmost 8mm nuts, that after lowering the exhaust from its hangers. That gives enough to room to bend (don’t deform) the shields enough to access the two lower impact bar bolts and nuts. It’s definitely tight and took a lot of time with just a small turn at a time. I did not try to drop the whole shield but would make it a little easier, my from nuts for the shield felt like they were going to strip or break so I stopped. And managed in the above manner. On a diesel not sure what that equates to with the blueE tank. mine is a gas model. You need the lower brackets in order to secure the shields the old impact bar has sheet metal is part of the unit, the tow tubular one is separate.
Thank you for your reply.
I am ready to go for it, but as you mention above, I have the diesel version meaning that the bluetank also needs to get lowered. I am a not sure if it will be a hassle and also I don't want to make any damages.
Also, I am not sure how easy it is to take off the rear bumper. Was it hard to take the bumper off?
Local MB dealership quoted me for 3 hours ($600) to install just the hitch....maybe not a bad price after all.
Thank you.
That’s not a bad price, but if you have a set of tools including the reverse torx socket kit it’s doable. Worse case you bring the car to the dealer bumperless and they can do whatever you get stuck on.
You need to set aside a weekend to not rush, the bumper scared me but once you figure how it’s comes off it’s easy to manage. Look at my pics for guidance on the hardware. One hex screw per side by pulling the liner to the side and 6 on the bottom/ 3 per side, and four at the rear. The little screw if you have the AMG pack. The pull outwards and backwards, carefully working the taillight area clips, a small screw driver to help release the tabs.
Last edited by Ricardoa1; Mar 24, 2021 at 12:35 PM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
gonna try it again in the daylights.
