2016 GLC 300 4 Matic Fuel Questions
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Toyota Hylander
2016 GLC 300 4 Matic Fuel Questions
Ok so my wife and I will be picking up our new GLC sometime in the next 5-7 days and wanted to know what type of gas the car REALLY takes. Reason why I am asking is that the Sticker say Premium but when I was looking I have heard from the sales people that they said Regular or middle grade gas works fine with no issues. Now I know they are looking to sell a car and they won't be responsible if something happens so what does actual owners use?
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BMW 5 Series and BMW X3
I think the best thing to do, is when you get the car look in the owners manual and on the gas cap door and see what the manufacturer says and then decide which direction you want to go. There is A LOT of discussion on which grade of fuel to use.
Junior Member
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2016 GLC300
This GLC300 owner uses premium. Like it was said above, to get this kind of performance from a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder engine something has to be sacrificed. The manufacturer also wants to sell cars so if a lesser fuel was ok don't you think they would say so ...
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 812
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From: Springboro, OH
16 GLC 19 Volvo XC40 06Corvette Z06
Ok so my wife and I will be picking up our new GLC sometime in the next 5-7 days and wanted to know what type of gas the car REALLY takes. Reason why I am asking is that the Sticker say Premium but when I was looking I have heard from the sales people that they said Regular or middle grade gas works fine with no issues. Now I know they are looking to sell a car and they won't be responsible if something happens so what does actual owners use?
Follow the guidance in the Operator's Manual.
I use 93 octane Top Tier fuel exclusively.
Will the vehicle run on 87/89 octane fuel? Of course it will. Will it run well? NO!
As mikebar2 stated, we are talking about a 241 horsepower two liter turbo charged four cylinder direct injected engine. That is a lot of horsepower for a small engine. One of the reasons the engine develops such stout horsepower is the requirement to burn 91/93 octane fuel.
Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, using unapproved fuel will most likely void your warranty.
Last edited by larrypmyers; Jun 21, 2016 at 11:41 AM.
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 565
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From: Cincinnati OH
2013 BMW X6 - Soon to be GLC300 4M
Contrary to popular belief, higher octane fuel is actually requires more compression than lower octane to detonate which is why it's used in higher performance engines as it mitigates premature detonation that can and will damage the engine over time. This is generally observed as "knocking" in the engine. Don't buy an expensive car and cheap out on gas
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
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From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
If your going to cheap out on fuel you might as well go all the way and use the cheapest oil that you can find. If you research you may find some paraffin based oil for a buck a quart.
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Toyota Hylander
Thanks I was planning on putting the high octane fuel but I wanted to make sure. Kind of sad that these dealers miss lead people into thinking that using middle grade fuel is ok on their own cars when obviously it impacts performance which you are paying for in the first place.
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GLC 300
Thanks I was planning on putting the high octane fuel but I wanted to make sure. Kind of sad that these dealers miss lead people into thinking that using middle grade fuel is ok on their own cars when obviously it impacts performance which you are paying for in the first place.
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2012 E350
Don't these engines have knock sensors - if you use a lower octane fuel the computer dials the advance back - so you lose power and mileage. Not a good tradeoff IMO but would it damage the engine? I don't think so.
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 130
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
GenesisG70 '20 GLC300 DakotaBrwn/Silk '16
I've used mid grade on my Acura, and Audi, and did indeed see a MPG drop. It wasN'T enough on the Acura, that it didn't pay to use the lower grade. I'm still trying to determine the drop for the Audi- though I suspect I'll continue to burn premium. (that may change if this price differential keeps widening. I'm routinely seeing 50 cents a gallon difference, but I've seen 60 cents popping up here and there.
)As for Benz, they were the only brand of these three that implied that one should use premium... period. For my Acura and Audi, it stated that it is ok to use lower grades, but some sacrifice would be made.
So I'm wondering if Benz put enough programming to adjust the timing when using a lower grade. Even the manual discourages the use of NON-premium grade gas.
And here's hoping that we don't get a bunch of comments about "if you can afford a premium car......."
Last edited by RedwinGV; Jun 25, 2016 at 07:12 PM. Reason: I meant wasn't not was.. oops
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A gaggle of MB's
I appreciate everyone's opinion on this post - from the flip/dealer side - from my side with over 685 personal customers on the road at this moment..
1) Premium is recommended - and will give you best fuel economy - in line with EPA ratings - and in practice "most" customers on a MB get a bit better than EPA with overall conservative drive styles - and/or using the fuel economy "education assistant" in the cluster to adjust driving habits to maximize fuel economy.
2) Mid=grade is OK - without knocking/abnormal behavior - however with mid-grade "about" 50% of the dollar savings will be lost to lower fuel economy. So - a 10cent/gallon savings at the pump - accounting for lower MPG - "might" result is a actual 5cent savings - if differential between Premium and Mid-Grade is $1.00 gal - actual savings accounting for lower MPG will be $.50 per gallon
3) I have never had a customer yet with problems specific to mid-grade - however there are customers who have had problems with either "bad gas" - or long storage
4) With the ethanol component - for my customers I recommend a 1/2 bottle treatment Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer as preventative to clean up the ethanol/water horse sh*t every 6mo to one yr.
5) It's Diesel - such problems there - really - with such a wide/wide variance in diesel quality - some states up to 20% unregulated bio mix - a whole different kettle of fish
Keep the beat !
1) Premium is recommended - and will give you best fuel economy - in line with EPA ratings - and in practice "most" customers on a MB get a bit better than EPA with overall conservative drive styles - and/or using the fuel economy "education assistant" in the cluster to adjust driving habits to maximize fuel economy.
2) Mid=grade is OK - without knocking/abnormal behavior - however with mid-grade "about" 50% of the dollar savings will be lost to lower fuel economy. So - a 10cent/gallon savings at the pump - accounting for lower MPG - "might" result is a actual 5cent savings - if differential between Premium and Mid-Grade is $1.00 gal - actual savings accounting for lower MPG will be $.50 per gallon
3) I have never had a customer yet with problems specific to mid-grade - however there are customers who have had problems with either "bad gas" - or long storage
4) With the ethanol component - for my customers I recommend a 1/2 bottle treatment Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer as preventative to clean up the ethanol/water horse sh*t every 6mo to one yr.
5) It's Diesel - such problems there - really - with such a wide/wide variance in diesel quality - some states up to 20% unregulated bio mix - a whole different kettle of fish
Keep the beat !
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 29
From: Pennsylvania
2016 GLC300 4Matic
Call me Thomas, but you're saying that one can use midgrade and only lose some power, yet maintain MPG? (no idea on engine damage for me.)
I've used mid grade on my Acura, and Audi, and did indeed see a MPG drop. It was enough on the Acura, that it didn't pay to use the lower grade. I'm still trying to determine the drop for the Audi- though I suspect I'll continue to burn premium. (that may change if this price differential keeps widening. I'm routinely seeing 50 cents a gallon difference, but I've seen 60 cents popping up here and there.)
As for Benz, they were the only brand of these three that implied that one should use premium... period. For my Acura and Audi, it stated that it is ok to use lower grades, but some sacrifice would be made.
So I'm wondering if Benz put enough programming to adjust the timing when using a lower grade. Even the manual discourages the use of NON-premium grade gas.
And here's hoping that we don't get a bunch of comments about "if you can afford a premium car......."
I've used mid grade on my Acura, and Audi, and did indeed see a MPG drop. It was enough on the Acura, that it didn't pay to use the lower grade. I'm still trying to determine the drop for the Audi- though I suspect I'll continue to burn premium. (that may change if this price differential keeps widening. I'm routinely seeing 50 cents a gallon difference, but I've seen 60 cents popping up here and there.
)As for Benz, they were the only brand of these three that implied that one should use premium... period. For my Acura and Audi, it stated that it is ok to use lower grades, but some sacrifice would be made.
So I'm wondering if Benz put enough programming to adjust the timing when using a lower grade. Even the manual discourages the use of NON-premium grade gas.
And here's hoping that we don't get a bunch of comments about "if you can afford a premium car......."
BMW used to say (maybe still does) that 89 is an acceptable substitute for 91 in the USA.
I'd be the last to say, if you can afford a premium car... But, if you have money to burn (literally)...
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 29
From: Pennsylvania
2016 GLC300 4Matic
I appreciate everyone's opinion on this post - from the flip/dealer side - from my side with over 685 personal customers on the road at this moment..
1) Premium is recommended - and will give you best fuel economy - in line with EPA ratings - and in practice "most" customers on a MB get a bit better than EPA with overall conservative drive styles - and/or using the fuel economy "education assistant" in the cluster to adjust driving habits to maximize fuel economy.
2) Mid=grade is OK - without knocking/abnormal behavior - however with mid-grade "about" 50% of the dollar savings will be lost to lower fuel economy. So - a 10cent/gallon savings at the pump - accounting for lower MPG - "might" result is a actual 5cent savings - if differential between Premium and Mid-Grade is $1.00 gal - actual savings accounting for lower MPG will be $.50 per gallon
3) I have never had a customer yet with problems specific to mid-grade - however there are customers who have had problems with either "bad gas" - or long storage
4) With the ethanol component - for my customers I recommend a 1/2 bottle treatment Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer as preventative to clean up the ethanol/water horse sh*t every 6mo to one yr.
5) It's Diesel - such problems there - really - with such a wide/wide variance in diesel quality - some states up to 20% unregulated bio mix - a whole different kettle of fish
Keep the beat !
1) Premium is recommended - and will give you best fuel economy - in line with EPA ratings - and in practice "most" customers on a MB get a bit better than EPA with overall conservative drive styles - and/or using the fuel economy "education assistant" in the cluster to adjust driving habits to maximize fuel economy.
2) Mid=grade is OK - without knocking/abnormal behavior - however with mid-grade "about" 50% of the dollar savings will be lost to lower fuel economy. So - a 10cent/gallon savings at the pump - accounting for lower MPG - "might" result is a actual 5cent savings - if differential between Premium and Mid-Grade is $1.00 gal - actual savings accounting for lower MPG will be $.50 per gallon
3) I have never had a customer yet with problems specific to mid-grade - however there are customers who have had problems with either "bad gas" - or long storage
4) With the ethanol component - for my customers I recommend a 1/2 bottle treatment Stabil Marine Fuel Stabilizer as preventative to clean up the ethanol/water horse sh*t every 6mo to one yr.
5) It's Diesel - such problems there - really - with such a wide/wide variance in diesel quality - some states up to 20% unregulated bio mix - a whole different kettle of fish
Keep the beat !
Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 130
Likes: 10
From: Grand Rapids, MI
GenesisG70 '20 GLC300 DakotaBrwn/Silk '16
So, it looks like the experts are in the camp that using mid grade would reduce HP a bit but little other impacts. Hmmm, so maybe it is worth saving 10% or more in fuel costs to use a lower grade fuel. I may go that dark side a bit after my break-in period is through.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 25
From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 25
From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 130
Likes: 10
From: Grand Rapids, MI
GenesisG70 '20 GLC300 DakotaBrwn/Silk '16
The posts supporting the use of premium essentially call out engine size, but really don't discuss how using lower octane would impact an engine. Octane ratings, for the most part, impact the knocking that would go on in an engine. With computers in place, the knocking is eliminated and some brands use the same engine in multiple vehicles and suggest using premium in one model and regular in another model (Honda is one for example.) So it's reasonable to explore fuel options and not pigeon hole one as being cheap and uninformed for asking. AND they also indicate using lower octane fuels do not harm the engine. Not sure why it would in a Benz.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 25
From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
No, you said more than that. I realize that the manual does indeed state to use premium gas, and I was planning on doing so. However, there are a few quotes, that although may be hearsay, do discuss the impact, of using lower octane fuel.
The posts supporting the use of premium essentially call out engine size, but really don't discuss how using lower octane would impact an engine. Octane ratings, for the most part, impact the knocking that would go on in an engine. With computers in place, the knocking is eliminated and some brands use the same engine in multiple vehicles and suggest using premium in one model and regular in another model (Honda is one for example.) So it's reasonable to explore fuel options and not pigeon hole one as being cheap and uninformed for asking. AND they also indicate using lower octane fuels do not harm the engine. Not sure why it would in a Benz.
The posts supporting the use of premium essentially call out engine size, but really don't discuss how using lower octane would impact an engine. Octane ratings, for the most part, impact the knocking that would go on in an engine. With computers in place, the knocking is eliminated and some brands use the same engine in multiple vehicles and suggest using premium in one model and regular in another model (Honda is one for example.) So it's reasonable to explore fuel options and not pigeon hole one as being cheap and uninformed for asking. AND they also indicate using lower octane fuels do not harm the engine. Not sure why it would in a Benz.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
MB GLC300
Ok, I have used both 87 and 91 (USA) and hence can give real world information. I cant comment on effect on engine in long term, but "experts" have suggested it should not matter.
MPG: No big impact. If you drive more than 70% on freeways during your commute, by all means go for 87 from mpg POV. City driving takes a 1-2 mpg hit as higher RPMs are hit often, so try not to be a lead foot. I drive on ECO and Normal mostly and use Sport for merging/overtaking.
POWER: I hope you are not buying GLC to drag race. For almost all of the use cases you will be happy with either 87 or 91. I have never felt issues with merging, passing and occassional flooring.
What MPG do I get?
I commute 35 miles one way everyday. I get ~29mpg using 91 and ~28.5 using 87. I drive using Distronic almost entirely. I did notice that safeway 87 was worst with mpg dropping to even 27 on one instance, so please try to get Shell or Chevron.
Do I always get 87?
No.
Is it economical to run 87?
Yes in my case.
Have I experienced knocking when using 87?
No
MPG: No big impact. If you drive more than 70% on freeways during your commute, by all means go for 87 from mpg POV. City driving takes a 1-2 mpg hit as higher RPMs are hit often, so try not to be a lead foot. I drive on ECO and Normal mostly and use Sport for merging/overtaking.
POWER: I hope you are not buying GLC to drag race. For almost all of the use cases you will be happy with either 87 or 91. I have never felt issues with merging, passing and occassional flooring.
What MPG do I get?
I commute 35 miles one way everyday. I get ~29mpg using 91 and ~28.5 using 87. I drive using Distronic almost entirely. I did notice that safeway 87 was worst with mpg dropping to even 27 on one instance, so please try to get Shell or Chevron.
Do I always get 87?
No.
Is it economical to run 87?
Yes in my case.
Have I experienced knocking when using 87?
No
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 25
From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
I guess the big ? In my mind is, let's just say you have an engine performance problem, take it in to the dealer and they determine it's a burned valve caused by knock. They check the fuel and find 87 octane. Can they deny the warranty? I don't need speculation or what you think. Legally are they on solid ground? If on minimally shakey ground it seems that the deep pockets usually wins. JMHO.
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 213
Likes: 29
From: Pennsylvania
2016 GLC300 4Matic
Ok, I have used both 87 and 91 (USA) and hence can give real world information. I cant comment on effect on engine in long term, but "experts" have suggested it should not matter.
MPG: No big impact. If you drive more than 70% on freeways during your commute, by all means go for 87 from mpg POV. City driving takes a 1-2 mpg hit as higher RPMs are hit often, so try not to be a lead foot. I drive on ECO and Normal mostly and use Sport for merging/overtaking.
POWER: I hope you are not buying GLC to drag race. For almost all of the use cases you will be happy with either 87 or 91. I have never felt issues with merging, passing and occassional flooring.
What MPG do I get?
I commute 35 miles one way everyday. I get ~29mpg using 91 and ~28.5 using 87. I drive using Distronic almost entirely. I did notice that safeway 87 was worst with mpg dropping to even 27 on one instance, so please try to get Shell or Chevron.
Do I always get 87?
No.
Is it economical to run 87?
Yes in my case.
Have I experienced knocking when using 87?
No
MPG: No big impact. If you drive more than 70% on freeways during your commute, by all means go for 87 from mpg POV. City driving takes a 1-2 mpg hit as higher RPMs are hit often, so try not to be a lead foot. I drive on ECO and Normal mostly and use Sport for merging/overtaking.
POWER: I hope you are not buying GLC to drag race. For almost all of the use cases you will be happy with either 87 or 91. I have never felt issues with merging, passing and occassional flooring.
What MPG do I get?
I commute 35 miles one way everyday. I get ~29mpg using 91 and ~28.5 using 87. I drive using Distronic almost entirely. I did notice that safeway 87 was worst with mpg dropping to even 27 on one instance, so please try to get Shell or Chevron.
Do I always get 87?
No.
Is it economical to run 87?
Yes in my case.
Have I experienced knocking when using 87?
No
