[DIY] 2020 GLC Brake fluid change - getting ready
Anyone would like to share experience on it? It seems very similar, if not the same, as pre-facelift GLC, like 2019.
* Brake fluid specification, as per manual US & Canada:
MB-Approval 331.0 at https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/331.0_en.html
Product name: MB 331.0 Bremsflüssigkeit A000 989 56 05
DOT 4+
1 litre per can, around CND36 + tax
* Capacity: 1 litre should be good; 2 litre is more than enough
* Motive Power Bleeder: I think it is either 0109 or 0100.
* Bleed sequence:
RR (or Right/Passenger side, Rear), LR then RF and finally LF
Old rule to start with the bleed screw the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards the bleed screw nearest to the master cylinder
* Bleed screw wrench size: (TBD)
Front: 12mm (sport package brake)
Back: 11mm
* Bleed screw torque tension: 14Nm or 10.5 ft-lb. (Ref: Number Designation Model 253, BA42.10-P-1002-12V Bleed screw to brake caliper Nm 14)
* Collect hose size: 1/4" vinyl tubing
Basic Steps:
1. Jack up car and put on four jack stands.
2. Take off wheels to be easy.
3. Extract old brake fluid from reservoir using turkey baster(don't put it back to kitchen)
4. Connect Power Bleeder to fill in new brake fluid
5. Bleed brake fluid on each wheel
Related WIS documents: see post #18
I will keep this post up to date with my research and your input.
Fun! fun!
Last edited by abacnus; Apr 26, 2023 at 10:37 AM.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
Last edited by DanD.; Oct 21, 2020 at 02:01 PM.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
If follow the old rule that is to start with the bleed screw the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards the bleed screw nearest to the master cylinder, it then would be RR, LR then RF and finally LF.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
Last edited by sn202020; Oct 26, 2020 at 03:12 PM.
2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=nG-daM24Lf0
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
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Yes, farthest wheel (longest brake tubes) from reservoir is first, the continue in descending order. Generally rear right is first, then rear left, then front right, then front left. This is for a LHD car.
I did this on my W166 and it is written up in the GLE W166 section under my "ownership report" thread. It's a pretty simple process.
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Last edited by chassis; Dec 13, 2020 at 09:53 PM.
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
I do not know what you are talking about for abs bleed.
I do not know what you are talking about for abs bleed.
Just flush brake fluid every 2 years and you will be fine.
I bought this tool below, its one person job, and no need to call wife to pump the brakes.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter








