It might be a bit too early to change brake fluid for MY20. But just wanna do some research and get it ready.
Anyone would like to share experience on it? It seems very similar, if not the same, as pre-facelift GLC, like 2019.
* Brake fluid specification, as per manual US & Canada:
MB-Approval 331.0 at https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/331.0_en.html
Product name: MB 331.0 Bremsflüssigkeit A000 989 56 05
DOT 4+
1 litre per can, around CND36 + tax
* Capacity: 1 litre should be good; 2 litre is more than enough
* Motive Power Bleeder: I think it is either 0109 or 0100.
* Bleed sequence:
RR (or Right/Passenger side, Rear), LR then RF and finally LF
Old rule to start with the bleed screw the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards the bleed screw nearest to the master cylinder
* Bleed screw wrench size: (TBD)
Front: 12mm (sport package brake)
Back: 11mm
* Bleed screw torque tension: 14Nm or 10.5 ft-lb. (Ref: Number Designation Model 253, BA42.10-P-1002-12V Bleed screw to brake caliper Nm 14)
* Collect hose size: 1/4" vinyl tubing
Basic Steps:
1. Jack up car and put on four jack stands.
2. Take off wheels to be easy.
3. Extract old brake fluid from reservoir using turkey baster(don't put it back to kitchen)
4. Connect Power Bleeder to fill in new brake fluid
5. Bleed brake fluid on each wheel
Related WIS documents: see post #18
I will keep this post up to date with my research and your input.
Fun! fun!
Anyone would like to share experience on it? It seems very similar, if not the same, as pre-facelift GLC, like 2019.
* Brake fluid specification, as per manual US & Canada:
MB-Approval 331.0 at https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/331.0_en.html
Product name: MB 331.0 Bremsflüssigkeit A000 989 56 05
DOT 4+
1 litre per can, around CND36 + tax
* Capacity: 1 litre should be good; 2 litre is more than enough
* Motive Power Bleeder: I think it is either 0109 or 0100.
* Bleed sequence:
RR (or Right/Passenger side, Rear), LR then RF and finally LF
Old rule to start with the bleed screw the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards the bleed screw nearest to the master cylinder
* Bleed screw wrench size: (TBD)
Front: 12mm (sport package brake)
Back: 11mm
* Bleed screw torque tension: 14Nm or 10.5 ft-lb. (Ref: Number Designation Model 253, BA42.10-P-1002-12V Bleed screw to brake caliper Nm 14)
* Collect hose size: 1/4" vinyl tubing
Basic Steps:
1. Jack up car and put on four jack stands.
2. Take off wheels to be easy.
3. Extract old brake fluid from reservoir using turkey baster(don't put it back to kitchen)
4. Connect Power Bleeder to fill in new brake fluid
5. Bleed brake fluid on each wheel
Related WIS documents: see post #18
I will keep this post up to date with my research and your input.
Fun! fun!
I used this one with GLC 2018
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
Quote:
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
How to confirm the bleeding sequence? any service manual we can check? Originally Posted by DanD.
I used this one with GLC 2018Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
If follow the old rule that is to start with the bleed screw the furthest away from the master cylinder and work towards the bleed screw nearest to the master cylinder, it then would be RR, LR then RF and finally LF.
Quote:
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
I used old rules too, my point of view was when you looking at the car, so passenger rear fist.Originally Posted by DanD.
I used this one with GLC 2018Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter
I did one wheel at the time, in total used one and a half MB bottles of DOT4Plus I believe.
Started from RL, RR, FL, FR
Used tall socket, if I remember it correctly front and back are different sizes, 12 and 11mm
Very easy process.
Quote:
ah, same as my sequence, I see where the confusing coming from then. Originally Posted by DanD.
I used old rules too, my point of view was when you looking at the car, so passenger rear fist.
DOT4LV (low viscosity) is MB recommended. But I did with regular synthetic DOT4.
2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
Quote:
2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=nG-daM24Lf0
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
yup, it is DOT4+, it says on the cap.Originally Posted by sn202020
DOT4LV (low viscosity) is MB recommended. But I did with regular synthetic DOT4.2 liter is more than enough.
200~400 ml per caliper.
Pressure bleeder is not required, I let it drop for 10~20 minutes by gravity.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=nG-daM24Lf0
Tightening torque is similar torque when you loosen.
Sequence is not critical if you do every 2~3 years.
Compare to many vehicles driven without bleeding several years or never.
The top post is updated.
Anyone with experience would like share tips or anything?
Anyone with experience would like share tips or anything?
chassis
Out Of Control!!
close
- Join DateSep 2018
- Locationunbegrenzt
- Posts:14,613
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2017 GLE350 4MATIC
-
Likes:14,721
-
Liked:4,531 Times in 3,515 Posts
Senior Leigh on YouTube has two excellent brake fluid flushing videos, a W212 E-Class and a W221 S-Class. In principle, all modern MBs follow the same steps.
Yes, farthest wheel (longest brake tubes) from reservoir is first, the continue in descending order. Generally rear right is first, then rear left, then front right, then front left. This is for a LHD car.
I did this on my W166 and it is written up in the GLE W166 section under my "ownership report" thread. It's a pretty simple process.
Yes, farthest wheel (longest brake tubes) from reservoir is first, the continue in descending order. Generally rear right is first, then rear left, then front right, then front left. This is for a LHD car.
I did this on my W166 and it is written up in the GLE W166 section under my "ownership report" thread. It's a pretty simple process.
How did it go ? I was going to do it myself but for $139 am letting the dealer do it. I tried a couple mb scan tools and neither supports this chassis for an abs bleed. I’d rather be able to bleed the abs at the same time once every 2-3 years. Same as I do on my motorcycle (bmw with the GS-911 tool)!
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
chassis
Out Of Control!!
close
- Join DateSep 2018
- Locationunbegrenzt
- Posts:14,613
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2017 GLE350 4MATIC
-
Likes:14,721
-
Liked:4,531 Times in 3,515 Posts
Quote:
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
@Camaroguy72 Are you saying your dealer electronically actuates the ABS and bleeds the brakes on your Mercedes? Originally Posted by Camaroguy72
How did it go ? I was going to do it myself but for $139 am letting the dealer do it. I tried a couple mb scan tools and neither supports this chassis for an abs bleed. I’d rather be able to bleed the abs at the same time once every 2-3 years. Same as I do on my motorcycle (bmw with the GS-911 tool)!cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
Quote:
im assuming so. I’m going to ask them to do it that way anyways. The bleed procedure on the bike is to manually bleed , activate abs through the ecu , then manually bleed again. This is what I’m expecting. Originally Posted by chassis
@Camaroguy72 Are you saying your dealer electronically actuates the ABS and bleeds the brakes on your Mercedes?
chassis
Out Of Control!!
close
- Join DateSep 2018
- Locationunbegrenzt
- Posts:14,613
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2017 GLE350 4MATIC
-
Likes:14,721
-
Liked:4,531 Times in 3,515 Posts
Quote:
@Camaroguy72 I wouldn't bet on it. The WIS procedure does not say anything about ABS or anything electronic. The WIS procedure is 100% mechanical with no buttons, switches, cables, etc.Originally Posted by Camaroguy72
im assuming so. I’m going to ask them to do it that way anyways. The bleed procedure on the bike is to manually bleed , activate abs through the ecu , then manually bleed again. This is what I’m expecting.
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Quote:
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Could attach the WIS? or is it for GLC model? Originally Posted by chassis
@Camaroguy72 I wouldn't bet on it. The WIS procedure does not say anything about ABS or anything electronic. The WIS procedure is 100% mechanical with no buttons, switches, cables, etc.Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Member
Quote:
Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
Thanks for the procedure. This is what I did when I bled brakes last time. I was assuming (like camaroguy72) that an activation of the ABS system is part of the process and figured I could defer the ABS portion for a bit. Originally Posted by chassis
@Camaroguy72 I wouldn't bet on it. The WIS procedure does not say anything about ABS or anything electronic. The WIS procedure is 100% mechanical with no buttons, switches, cables, etc.Use the search feature, this is extensively documented on this site.
Paraphrasing WIS:
- suction fluid out of reservoir
- attach empty pressure bleed unit (e.g. Motive) and pressurize
- disconnect bleed unit and fill with fresh fluid
- attach bleed unit and pressurize to 2 bar
- lift rear of vehicle
- remove right rear tire
- attach bleed hose to bleed screw and direct into bleed bottle
- crack open bleed screw and let fluid flush out until clear fluid is observed
- tighten bleed screw, remove bleed hose and bleed bottle
- repump bleed unit back up to 2 bar
- repeat for left rear, right front and left front wheels, in that order
- carefully depressurize the bleed unit by very slowly opening the bleed unit cap and slowly releasing pressue
- remove bleed unit from reservoir
- correct reservoir fluid level if needed, either by removing fluid or adding it
- install reservoir cap, wipe up spilled fluid
No pumping of the pedal. No actuation of the ABS. ABS actuation is mainly a "GM thing".
This took me about 2 hours the first time, going very slowly. It will take me about an hour next time. It takes dealers probably 30 minutes on a lift.
chassis
Out Of Control!!
close
- Join DateSep 2018
- Locationunbegrenzt
- Posts:14,613
-
iTrader Positive Feedback0
-
iTrader Feedback Score(0)
- Vehicle(s) I drive2017 GLE350 4MATIC
-
Likes:14,721
-
Liked:4,531 Times in 3,515 Posts
@Camaroguy72 The WIS document is posted several times on this site for various models. My WIS isn't running right now so I'm not able to get the GLC. It's probably posted on this site for the GLC, you just need to dig for it using the search feature. The procedure is fundamentally the same for all MB models. Go to YouTube and look at user Senior Leigh's videos. He does the brake fluid flush on a W212 E-Class and W221 S-Class. Great videos.
I tried my search skill, but no luck. If anyone has the WIS pdf handy, please attach. I will add link to it from the top post so that ppl can find it quickly.
Junior Member
Here you go.
Quote:
Updated top post with the link to WIS. Thanks!Originally Posted by SteadyRover
Here you go.
Quote:
2 year /20k miles. More time based than mileage honestly. Originally Posted by sowbountifully
How many miles did the GLC 300 have before you flushed the brakes.
Quote:
cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
I am about to do that, it seems pretty straight forward, no need scan tool. Originally Posted by Camaroguy72
How did it go ? I was going to do it myself but for $139 am letting the dealer do it. I tried a couple mb scan tools and neither supports this chassis for an abs bleed. I’d rather be able to bleed the abs at the same time once every 2-3 years. Same as I do on my motorcycle (bmw with the GS-911 tool)! cost $40 or so for 2 liters of fluid. I still have new unopened fluid if someone doing it yourself is interested (in Savannah ga)
I do not know what you are talking about for abs bleed.
Quote:
I do not know what you are talking about for abs bleed.
I wouldn't recommend to do ABS, you wound need a MB special tools and their system. Originally Posted by abacnus
I am about to do that, it seems pretty straight forward, no need scan tool. I do not know what you are talking about for abs bleed.
Just flush brake fluid every 2 years and you will be fine.
I bought this tool below, its one person job, and no need to call wife to pump the brakes.
Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter





