Squeaky Brakes in colder weather
I am certain that I am just one of many GLC owners experiencing this situation. Has anyone been able to rectify this issue with MB where the brakes do not wake up the neighborhood each morning? I know that the rotors get some kind of rust buildup and only after the brakes are applied several times does the squeal go away. BTW, I also own a 2021 GLE and it has no issues whatsoever, so therefore Mercedes can build a vehicle with quiet brakes. Any recommendations that have resulted in positive results, thanks.




Once the pads build up a glaze, they don't stop as well, and they often squeak/squeal.
Just to rule out that possibility, and potentially save trips to the dealer, try bedding in your brakes, as you mentioned.
Find a very vacant stretch of road, drive 60 mph, slow HARD to 10 mph (not zero), repeat two or three times.
See if that improves or fixes things, and if it does, you have found the problem. Sometimes just eliminating that glaze will be a permanent fix.
Once the pads build up a glaze, they don't stop as well, and they often squeak/squeal.
Just to rule out that possibility, and potentially save trips to the dealer, try bedding in your brakes, as you mentioned.
Find a very vacant stretch of road, drive 60 mph, slow HARD to 10 mph (not zero), repeat two or three times.
See if that improves or fixes things, and if it does, you have found the problem. Sometimes just eliminating that glaze will be a permanent fix.




You're talking about bedding the brakes, but I'm talking about Glazing of the pads. If they build a glaze, they just won't bed in, which sounds more like Glaze than bedding by your description.
You have to break that glaze. It can be done by removing the pads and wire brushing them, or by using the aggressive stopping technique I described earlier.
I'll bet the driving habits are more gentle on the GLC than the GLE. Different drivers?
You're talking about bedding the brakes, but I'm talking about Glazing of the pads. If they build a glaze, they just won't bed in, which sounds more like Glaze than bedding by your description.
You have to break that glaze. It can be done by removing the pads and wire brushing them, or by using the aggressive stopping technique I described earlier.
I'll bet the driving habits are more gentle on the GLC than the GLE. Different drivers?
My pre-owned came with sqeaky brakes freshly installed by the dealer. I don't blame them- customers can't complain about fresh MB parts.
Hasn't anyone here figured out the aftermarket pads necessary to stop the squeaking? Surely they exist.




My pre-owned came with sqeaky brakes freshly installed by the dealer. I don't blame them- customers can't complain about fresh MB parts.
Hasn't anyone here figured out the aftermarket pads necessary to stop the squeaking? Surely they exist.
Do some research on brake pad glazing.
Or do a series of aggressive stops and probably fix it.
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I'm a sedate driver. Most certainly I am not overheating my brakes to glaze them.
Hard stops is an unusual recommendation to remove glazing. Most common advice is to sand the rotors & pads to remove the glazing. But I'm happy to wait until the pads wear out, and trying a different pad next time.
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I'm a sedate driver. Most certainly I am not overheating my brakes to glaze them.
Hard stops is an unusual recommendation to remove glazing. Most common advice is to sand the rotors & pads to remove the glazing. But I'm happy to wait until the pads wear out, and trying a different pad next time.
Most often, it's sedate driving, and not heating up the brakes enough.
This can be corrected by the hard stopping that I mentioned above, to bed in the brakes.
There are plenty of YouTubes and articles about it. Here's the first one I found:
https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shoppin...20new%20brakes.



My Autel MX900 was very handy in putting the brakes in service position. Saved me from following videos to copy pushing sequences of buttons on the steering wheel. Everything else was pretty straight forward like any other floating caliper brake service. It's really tight to torque the caliper bracket bolts. You'll need a low profile swivel on your torque wrench. I recommend having a serpentine belt tool kit with a digital angle guage to set the second half of 60Nm+45° unless you're not setting the torque. I didn't find one YouTube video mentioning it but now you know.
All in, this job was $250 parts. I really took my time and cleaned up the caliper and bracket thoroughly. More than most. I made sure to lube every metal to metal contact point with brake paste. I put in 6 hours including bedding the brakes. My local dealer charges $1100. I don't work on my car to primarily save money. I enjoy it. If this works out worse than factory, I will go back to MB setuo by spending around $330. That's still roughly half what the dealer charges. Akebono Euro gets great reviews on many forums so it gives me hope.
It going to be fairly cold next few mornings like teens and 20s. I will let you know.




Try bedding your brakes, which involves a series of very aggressive stops from 60 to 5 mph. There are plenty of sources and videos about how to do this.
The more you tiptoe through the neighborhood, the worse it'll get.
Changing pads and rotors will only delay the recurrence.




Try bedding your brakes, which involves a series of very aggressive stops from 60 to 5 mph. There are plenty of sources and videos about how to do this.
The more you tiptoe through the neighborhood, the worse it'll get.
Changing pads and rotors will only delay the recurrence.




It's often hard to find enough open road to do a good bedding job.
Slowing from 60 to 5mph (Don't come to a complete stop). Re-Accelerating to 60 and repeating 3 to 4 times is what is needed. I need a few miles with minimal traffic to do it safely.
My latest car doesn't have the problem.







Week#1 update - (after new powerstop rotors, Akebono Euro pads and one set of caliper slide pins). Squealed once out of a dozen starts. Compared to right before the switch, it squealed more times than not. Brakes feel better. So far, it's worth the effort.
Factory rear pads were worn 50% (3 to 4 mm) anyway. I'm going after the other caliper slide pins this weekend make sure that's ruled out and matches the other side.




