GLC 63 AMG Performance
03-17-2022, 07:33 PM
#1
GLC 63 AMG Performance
Hi guys,
I just bout my first Mercedes, a 2021 Glc63 AMG. All the performance specs i’ve found show it’s got 469 Horsepower, but i’ getting no more than about 370 horsepower on Sport+ mode, or any mode.
Some people have told me it needs to unlock the full power after it hits a certain milage, it’s crossed the 3,300k mark st this point and no sign of getting that extra 100hp i’m looking for.
I’ve brought it to two different Mercedes dealership and they basically told me there’s nothing they can do about it, it is what it is. I told them I’m not getting what I paid for and they don’t seem to care.
Any advice on this will be appreciated.
Thanks
I just bout my first Mercedes, a 2021 Glc63 AMG. All the performance specs i’ve found show it’s got 469 Horsepower, but i’ getting no more than about 370 horsepower on Sport+ mode, or any mode.
Some people have told me it needs to unlock the full power after it hits a certain milage, it’s crossed the 3,300k mark st this point and no sign of getting that extra 100hp i’m looking for.
I’ve brought it to two different Mercedes dealership and they basically told me there’s nothing they can do about it, it is what it is. I told them I’m not getting what I paid for and they don’t seem to care.
Any advice on this will be appreciated.
Thanks
03-17-2022, 08:35 PM
#2
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You are not getting more than 370 hp? How did you determine that? Did you put it on a dyno?
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Mosca (03-18-2022)
03-18-2022, 10:18 AM
#4
03-18-2022, 11:01 AM
#5
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Ah, those are not real. That's just a visualization based on a mathematical model of your engine and real inputs such as throttle position rpm etc. and from that it calculates the numbers based on the known torque/power curve of the engine. There's nothing in the car measuring actual torque and horsepower. Those can only be measured by strapping the car on a dyno. Your system was likely misconfigured at the factory and its doing the wrong calculations for the wrong type of engine. There's one other possibility and that is your car could be in power limp mode. Happens if the car has lost electrical power. One way to tell is if those performance meters don't show the full horsepower scale. The power limp mode has to be reset by a dealership. But if I remember correctly, if it's in power limp mode it only shows around 200 hp max. You need to phrase your concern differently with the dealership. It's not that your car doesn't make the advertised power, but your displays are not correct.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
Last edited by superswiss; 03-18-2022 at 11:33 AM.
03-18-2022, 07:32 PM
#6
Ah, those are not real. That's just a visualization based on a mathematical model of your engine and real inputs such as throttle position rpm etc. and from that it calculates the numbers based on the known torque/power curve of the engine. There's nothing in the car measuring actual torque and horsepower. Those can only be measured by strapping the car on a dyno. Your system was likely misconfigured at the factory and its doing the wrong calculations for the wrong type of engine. There's one other possibility and that is your car could be in power limp mode. Happens if the car has lost electrical power. One way to tell is if those performance meters don't show the full horsepower scale. The power limp mode has to be reset by a dealership. But if I remember correctly, if it's in power limp mode it only shows around 200 hp max. You need to phrase your concern differently with the dealership. It's not that your car doesn't make the advertised power, but your displays are not correct.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
Last edited by S4VT; 03-18-2022 at 07:34 PM.
03-18-2022, 11:33 PM
#7
Just to add to that. You can pick yourself up a DRAGY and do a few pulls and get very accurate 0-60 and quarter mile times. If you want to compare apples to apples with us fellow GLC63 owners when ours were stock. They only cost $160 and if you have no use for it after you can easily sell it for that. I’m not sure about you, but that’s cheaper than the headache and bull**** of multiple dealer visits any day of the week.
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ParadigmDawg (03-21-2022)
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03-19-2022, 02:22 AM
#8
Member
Ah, those are not real. That's just a visualization based on a mathematical model of your engine and real inputs such as throttle position rpm etc. and from that it calculates the numbers based on the known torque/power curve of the engine. There's nothing in the car measuring actual torque and horsepower. Those can only be measured by strapping the car on a dyno. Your system was likely misconfigured at the factory and its doing the wrong calculations for the wrong type of engine. There's one other possibility and that is your car could be in power limp mode. Happens if the car has lost electrical power. One way to tell is if those performance meters don't show the full horsepower scale. The power limp mode has to be reset by a dealership. But if I remember correctly, if it's in power limp mode it only shows around 200 hp max. You need to phrase your concern differently with the dealership. It's not that your car doesn't make the advertised power, but your displays are not correct.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
EDIT: BTW, even a dyno cannot measure directly what your engine makes. It can only measure the torque at the driven wheels, and then using known loss factors of the drivetrain it estimates the torque at the crank. Horsepower is always calculated: HP = Torque * RPM / 5252.
03-19-2022, 02:42 AM
#9
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I cant say that gauge reading is unreal as its based on precise math model and on how ECU actually runs this powertrain, TQ demand and output. My gauge is pretty consistent at torque readings and i can compare it to the dyno plot of the stock car. It aligns really well for TQ \ revs data on the plot. There were couple guys here and there with fueling or exhaust issues, surprisingly they had no malfunction codes but power output has been reduced and power gauge read like 300-350 instead of 500. Of course all that MBUX stuff is pretty gimmicky and may not work as intended so its better to compare acceleration with same car side by side to be sure.
OP, just to clarify, you are revving it out fully with wide open throttle, right? You'd only see max HP at 5500 to 6250 rpm and wide open throttle. I generally have my eyes on the road when doing that, and not reading performance displays in the car.
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TonyG3D (03-23-2022)
03-19-2022, 07:19 AM
#10
Agreed. What I meant by not real, is that it is not measured actual TQ and HP, but calculated TQ and HP, however if all is well it should closely match the actual figures. What I'm really getting at is that the figures it displays can be wrong if something is misconfigured. To determine if the display is wrong, or the engine is indeed down on TQ and HP an acceleration or a dyno test would need to be done.
OP, just to clarify, you are revving it out fully with wide open throttle, right? You'd only see max HP at 5500 to 6250 rpm and wide open throttle. I generally have my eyes on the road when doing that, and not reading performance displays in the car.
OP, just to clarify, you are revving it out fully with wide open throttle, right? You'd only see max HP at 5500 to 6250 rpm and wide open throttle. I generally have my eyes on the road when doing that, and not reading performance displays in the car.
Btw the driving modes are confort, Sport, Sport+, and Individual. I don’t rave a race mode i thought i’s have.
03-19-2022, 01:25 PM
#11
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yes fully open throttle. The gauge hold the figures for a few seconds so I can look at it. I haven’t done a dyno test yet but i got beat by a VW Golf the other day which got me pretty mad, i also had an Audi S4 that was as fast if not faster than the GLC63. So these two comparisons made me think there’s something wrong and i’m not getting the full power.
Btw the driving modes are confort, Sport, Sport+, and Individual. I don’t rave a race mode i thought i’s have.
Btw the driving modes are confort, Sport, Sport+, and Individual. I don’t rave a race mode i thought i’s have.
Last edited by superswiss; 03-19-2022 at 01:48 PM.
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places (03-21-2022)
03-19-2022, 01:54 PM
#12
So, the GLC 63 and the S4 have almost the same power to weight ratio. The GLC is 600 lbs heavier and way less aerodynamic, so it won't really get away from an S4. They'll likely be neck to neck off the line, and then as speeds increase the S4 will pull away from you due to the better aerodynamics. Despite the extra power, the GLC is severely handicapped by the extra weight and massive frontal area. Put three 200 lbs adults in the S4 to equal the weight and then you'll be faster. As for the Golf, was it a Golf R? Similar story there. The Golf is even lighter.
03-19-2022, 03:30 PM
#13
Junior Member
These may all be stupid questions, but are you sure the engine oil and trans temps were above ~160F and 122F respectively (not in the "blue"/cold range? It definitely pulls power if not.)
93 Octane gas?
In S+ or Individual w/Performance or whatever it's called selected?
Are you in automatic or Manual shift? I love my GLC63 in almost every respect except the Manual mode's response as you get close to redline is
. Automatic will almost always be quicker
I've driven a couple of B8 and B9 S4s, and stock, they are decent, maybe high 12s in the 1/4mile, 4.5 seconds 0-60 ish. The GLC63 pulls much harder stock for stock. Problem is, most older B8 S4s aren't stock. Prior to the 2017 model, a tune alone would get them into the mid 11s, and likely a little quicker than the GLC. 2017+ B9s are a bit more sluggish and $$ to get running strong, but it can be done.
Golfs? No idea other than I've seen some pretty impressive times out of the tuned GTI and Golf R, and a lot of them are tuned
Point being, get a Dragy and run it warmed up, good fuel, and see what your 1/4 mile speed is. That's a great indicator of HP
93 Octane gas?
In S+ or Individual w/Performance or whatever it's called selected?
Are you in automatic or Manual shift? I love my GLC63 in almost every respect except the Manual mode's response as you get close to redline is
. Automatic will almost always be quickerI've driven a couple of B8 and B9 S4s, and stock, they are decent, maybe high 12s in the 1/4mile, 4.5 seconds 0-60 ish. The GLC63 pulls much harder stock for stock. Problem is, most older B8 S4s aren't stock. Prior to the 2017 model, a tune alone would get them into the mid 11s, and likely a little quicker than the GLC. 2017+ B9s are a bit more sluggish and $$ to get running strong, but it can be done.
Golfs? No idea other than I've seen some pretty impressive times out of the tuned GTI and Golf R, and a lot of them are tuned
Point being, get a Dragy and run it warmed up, good fuel, and see what your 1/4 mile speed is. That's a great indicator of HP
03-19-2022, 03:54 PM
#14
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That couldn't have been a stock VR6. Even at "only" 370 hp you'd still have a pretty decent power to weight ratio advantage, not to mention AWD traction vs. FWD only. All this is really to say you need a more methodical approach vs some random comparison on the road with cars that are lighter than the GLC and/or may be tuned. If you really suspect yours is not making full power get it on a dyno or as mentioned above start with some good instrumentation and do a few 0-60 runs to see if you are anywhere close to official numbers.
Last edited by superswiss; 03-19-2022 at 04:09 PM.
03-20-2022, 07:07 AM
#15
These may all be stupid questions, but are you sure the engine oil and trans temps were above ~160F and 122F respectively (not in the "blue"/cold range? It definitely pulls power if not.)
93 Octane gas?
In S+ or Individual w/Performance or whatever it's called selected?
Are you in automatic or Manual shift? I love my GLC63 in almost every respect except the Manual mode's response as you get close to redline is. Automatic will almost always be quicker
I've driven a couple of B8 and B9 S4s, and stock, they are decent, maybe high 12s in the 1/4mile, 4.5 seconds 0-60 ish. The GLC63 pulls much harder stock for stock. Problem is, most older B8 S4s aren't stock. Prior to the 2017 model, a tune alone would get them into the mid 11s, and likely a little quicker than the GLC. 2017+ B9s are a bit more sluggish and $$ to get running strong, but it can be done.
Golfs? No idea other than I've seen some pretty impressive times out of the tuned GTI and Golf R, and a lot of them are tuned
Point being, get a Dragy and run it warmed up, good fuel, and see what your 1/4 mile speed is. That's a great indicator of HP
93 Octane gas?
In S+ or Individual w/Performance or whatever it's called selected?
Are you in automatic or Manual shift? I love my GLC63 in almost every respect except the Manual mode's response as you get close to redline is
. Automatic will almost always be quickerI've driven a couple of B8 and B9 S4s, and stock, they are decent, maybe high 12s in the 1/4mile, 4.5 seconds 0-60 ish. The GLC63 pulls much harder stock for stock. Problem is, most older B8 S4s aren't stock. Prior to the 2017 model, a tune alone would get them into the mid 11s, and likely a little quicker than the GLC. 2017+ B9s are a bit more sluggish and $$ to get running strong, but it can be done.
Golfs? No idea other than I've seen some pretty impressive times out of the tuned GTI and Golf R, and a lot of them are tuned
Point being, get a Dragy and run it warmed up, good fuel, and see what your 1/4 mile speed is. That's a great indicator of HP
I’m going to get a Dragy and see what it’s doing for the 1/4 mile speed and 0-60 time. Any dragy that you would recommend that isn’t crazy expensive?
i’ve also bought a performance chip from RaceChip but haven’t installed it yet until I find out what’s going on with the stock performance.
03-20-2022, 07:48 PM
#16
FYI, my engine gauges showed over 450 hp today while accelerating onto a freeway. The engine would have gone higher except I had to slow down.
Last edited by S4VT; 03-20-2022 at 07:51 PM.
03-20-2022, 08:57 PM
#17
That’s awesome, that’s what it should should show! How many miles on your odometer? Some people say there’s a break in milage before it opens up and releases all the hp.
03-20-2022, 10:31 PM
#18
03-20-2022, 10:39 PM
#19
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Performance cars generally seem to open up around 8-10k miles. I don't know if the ECU officially holds back power up to a certain mileage, but FWIW, my C63S coupe definitely opened up more around that mileage. Maybe it was just me getting more in tune with the car, but at almost 25k now, it feels faster and more alive than at the beginning.
03-21-2022, 03:20 PM
#20
Super Member
BTW, My car never got beat when it was stock and I had a lot of cars take a shot at it. Once tuned, I got beat once and it was my buddy's GLC63 that is highly modded and he dynos, to the wheels, around 780 hp and torque to match. All other cars I was easily able to pull.
03-21-2022, 11:27 PM
#21
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yes fully open throttle. The gauge hold the figures for a few seconds so I can look at it. I haven’t done a dyno test yet but i got beat by a VW Golf the other day which got me pretty mad, i also had an Audi S4 that was as fast if not faster than the GLC63. So these two comparisons made me think there’s something wrong and i’m not getting the full power.
Btw the driving modes are confort, Sport, Sport+, and Individual. I don’t rave a race mode i thought i’s have.
Btw the driving modes are confort, Sport, Sport+, and Individual. I don’t rave a race mode i thought i’s have.
03-22-2022, 12:11 PM
#22
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My closest street race was with a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, that thing was ungodly. I actually wasn't on my hottest E30 tune but I was on an empty street, testing some 0-60's on my 2nd hottest 92 tune. The Evo just happened to pull up beside me, came to a quick stop and then hit it, I decided to chase. I caught him around the 1/8 mi and from that point on we stayed dead even. We shutoff right before the 1/4 and when I checked my dragy, I had ran a 1/8th in 6.83@ 102.06;it was an invalid time as the slope was 4%, but dang the little EVO looked like crap and it was kicking it. We pulled over and almost at the exact same time, we both said "what the hell is that thing you are driving"....
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places (03-22-2022)
03-22-2022, 12:21 PM
#23
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My closest street race was with a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, that thing was ungodly. I actually wasn't on my hottest E30 tune but I was on an empty street, testing some 0-60's on my 2nd hottest 92 tune. The Evo just happened to pull up beside me, came to a quick stop and then hit it, I decided to chase. I caught him around the 1/8 mi and from that point on we stayed dead even. We shutoff right before the 1/4 and when I checked my dragy, I had ran a 1/8th in 6.83@ 102.06;it was an invalid time as the slope was 4%, but dang the little EVO looked like crap and it was kicking it. We pulled over and almost at the exact same time, we both said "what the hell is that thing you are driving"....
Cool story!
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pussgalore (03-30-2022)
