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Hope you guys don't mind a new thread on this topic.
Wife bought a lightly used 2024 GLE 350 and I plan to do the oil changes myself and find an Indy to do the Service Bs. Although I am contemplating buying the vacuum pump for the brake flush.
I went to FCP and bought the MB229.72 spec Motul 0w-20 oil (8100 Eco Clean) and then the filter, washer, and new drain plug.
I have gone back and forth about how to get the GLE up. I have ramps, jack stands, and a floor jack. I wish there was a central lift point so I could drive up the ramps and get the car level on the stands.
I almost bought a Jack Rod but decided to go with the Powerbilt.
The plan is to lower the car after I start draining oil and let it sit at a level attitude.
I'm a little nervous with the 0w-20 oil vice what I would think is a more normal 30 weight. I bought the fancy Motul oil instead of going with a 229.71 Mobil 1 (aka cheaper jugs from Walmart) spec oil or the huge amount of 0w or 5w-30 oils that meet the earlier specs.
If you guys don't own a cordless ratchet, go get one! They are game changers. You can slowly remove the drain plug and NOT get hot oil on yourself. Plus just removing the fasteners is quick and easy.
I still need to buy the socket for the filter (27mm) but should have everything else. I do plan to use a torque wrench as well.
I'll take some pics and post once I get this done.
Last edited by rayrevolver; Oct 8, 2024 at 12:02 PM.
I park on ramps when doing oil changes on all my cars, and never have problems getting all the oil out via drain plug. Why do you need to keep your GLE level?
I bought a Motive brake flush kit. The process is no more complicated than an oil change, but takes more time if you pull wheels off one at a time to make access to bleed nipples easier. Took me about 4 hours prep through cleanup. Brake fluid requires careful handling because it's corrosive and disposal can be a problem
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
What is your complete model designation? It should be something like 167.XXX or VIN? I will try to look up the oil change procedure for your car. For years, Mercedes has used the vacuum method of extracting the oil through the dipstick tube and it is quite effective, more than draining. But that only works if the oil filter is on the top of the engine. Do you have the M256 engine? That may require draining from the oil pan.
EDIT: I now see you don't have a dipstick and must drain from the oil pan. So sorry!
What is your complete model designation? It should be something like 167.XXX or VIN? I will try to look up the oil change procedure for your car. For years, Mercedes has used the vacuum method of extracting the oil through the dipstick tube and it is quite effective, more than draining. But that only works if the oil filter is on the top of the engine. Do you have the M256 engine? That may require draining from the oil pan.
Sadly I think all V167 sold in North America has no dipstick so will need to bottom drain.
I park on ramps when doing oil changes on all my cars, and never have problems getting all the oil out via drain plug. Why do you need to keep your GLE level?
I bought a Motive brake flush kit. The process is no more complicated than an oil change, but takes more time if you pull wheels off one at a time to make access to bleed nipples easier. Took me about 4 hours prep through cleanup. Brake fluid requires careful handling because it's corrosive and disposal can be a problem
I just figured level was better, but without a central jack point it gets expensive (like a pair of Jackpoint stands would be great with ramps up front). I used to have a brake bleeder about 10 years ago and lent it to a coworker. He wanted to bleed the brakes on his Grumman Tiger. I never got it back. The Motive kit is what I am looking at. What flavor brake fluid do you use?
JettaRed - Thanks for the PDF. Not having a dip stick is wacky. Have you used any indys in DC for service? I am about 1.5h from Annapolis MB.
I do own and use a marine oil extractor (6.9qt from West Marine) and assumed this MB would be easy for oil changes. Nope!
Anywho, our first MB and the wife loves it. By far the most expensive car we have owned by a long shot as well. And I'm a cheap sumbich, hence the DIY. My youngest has said it would be his car in a few years so I plan to have him help.
Last edited by rayrevolver; Oct 9, 2024 at 08:51 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I do most of my own work. If there is something that I can't do, I have taken the car to the Mercedes dealership in Hagerstown and have been very happy with the service there. I've done transmission services several times on my cars, but the last one I had them do it. They let me provide the parts and just paid the labor (~3 hours). I saved about $200.
I once used an independent that I use a lot on my non-Mercedes cars in the past to do a wheel alignment on my 2004 SL500 and they could never get it right. I took it to the Mercedes in Hagerstown and they got it perfect. It was night and day difference in the way the car drove and handled. I think it was the ABC suspension that had the independent shop stumped.
I just figured level was better, but without a central jack point it gets expensive (like a pair of Jackpoint stands would be great with ramps up front). I used to have a brake bleeder about 10 years ago and lent it to a coworker. He wanted to bleed the brakes on his Grumman Tiger. I never got it back. The Motive kit is what I am looking at. What flavor brake fluid do you use?
JettaRed - Thanks for the PDF. Not having a dip stick is wacky. Have you used any indys in DC for service? I am about 1.5h from Annapolis MB.
I do own and use a marine oil extractor (6.9qt from West Marine) and assumed this MB would be easy for oil changes. Nope!
Anywho, our first MB and the wife loves it. By far the most expensive car we have owned by a long shot as well. And I'm a cheap sumbich, hence the DIY. My youngest has said it would be his car in a few years so I plan to have him help.
I have a Harbor Freight floor jack and the cross beam accessory (https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-...eam-64051.html). Useful for lifting the entire front, back or side all at once, but not for under vehicle work.
My dip sticks have never lied to me -- electronic sensors, many times.
Is it truly necessary to raise the car to remove the belly pan and undo the drain plug? Not required on W166 4MATIC. Not required on current X3, current Cayenne and prior model Cayenne.
Is it truly necessary to raise the car to remove the belly pan and undo the drain plug? Not required on W166 4MATIC. Not required on current X3, current Cayenne and prior model Cayenne.
Not essential on my G550, but when I drive it up on ramps, there's just enough room for a catch funnel and recycle jug to fit under the drain plug. Oil goes directly into the jug and saves having to pour it from a drain pan (which always seems to spill just a bit). And it's a bit easier to roll my creeper around.
Not essential on my G550, but when I drive it up on ramps, there's just enough room for a catch funnel and recycle jug to fit under the drain plug. Oil goes directly into the jug and saves having to pour it from a drain pan (which always seems to spill just a bit). And it's a bit easier to roll my creeper around.
Is it truly necessary to raise the car to remove the belly pan and undo the drain plug? Not required on W166 4MATIC. Not required on current X3, current Cayenne and prior model Cayenne.
I do oil changes at 3k or 5k myself and take it in to a local European car place for A and B services at 10k. I don't have any issues getting under without a lift, but it's tight. Putting the bottom cover back on is the hardest part and it's not that bad.
I did learn to replace that oil plug every oil change after I had one leak. Also, don't buy the cheap plugs on Amazon.. trust me.. Just get the OEM ones.
I do oil changes at 3k or 5k myself and take it in to a local European car place for A and B services at 10k. I don't have any issues getting under without a lift, but it's tight. Putting the bottom cover back on is the hardest part and it's not that bad.
I did learn to replace that oil plug every oil change after I had one leak. Also, don't buy the cheap plugs on Amazon.. trust me.. Just get the OEM ones.
Kind of wish MB put a seperate cover just for the oil drain plug instead of having to take off the entire front splash shield. I think competitors like bmw (or so I heard) has that little door (?) to access the drain plug.
Kind of wish MB put a seperate cover just for the oil drain plug instead of having to take off the entire front splash shield. I think competitors like bmw (or so I heard) has that little door (?) to access the drain plug.
My X7 has access openings in the skid plate for both drain plug and filter cap. Filter can be messy if your cap lacks its own drain plug. I've thought about cutting openings in my G550 skid plate to make it a bit easier, but I've not done this yet.
My X7 has access openings in the skid plate for both drain plug and filter cap. Filter can be messy if your cap lacks its own drain plug. I've thought about cutting openings in my G550 skid plate to make it a bit easier, but I've not done this yet.
I see so the bmw does have a separate compartment/door as well after all.
I'm not following. You did buy the Powerbuilt Jack/Stand combo? And it works fine? (Confused about the 8.6" clearance comment)
New to the Mercedes world, and trying to figure out how to swap wheels/tires .... (I've got a 3-ton jack and jack stands.). If the Powerbilt Jack combo works well, that'll be my next purchase.
Originally Posted by rayrevolver
I have gone back and forth about how to get the GLE up. I have ramps, jack stands, and a floor jack. I wish there was a central lift point so I could drive up the ramps and get the car level on the stands.
I had the 3-ton version and used it in anger 2 times on a 33ft travel trailer on the side of the road.
The 2-ton version needs 8.6" clearance and I measured more than that to the front lift points. I also just bought this puck off Amazon. Flat Jacking Puck
I almost bought a Jack Rod but decided to go with the Powerbilt.
I'll take some pics and post once I get this done.
Hope you guys don't mind a new thread on this topic.
Wife bought a lightly used 2024 GLE 350 and I plan to do the oil changes myself and find an Indy to do the Service Bs. Although I am contemplating buying the vacuum pump for the brake flush.
I went to FCP and bought the MB229.72 spec Motul 0w-20 oil (8100 Eco Clean) and then the filter, washer, and new drain plug.
I have gone back and forth about how to get the GLE up. I have ramps, jack stands, and a floor jack. I wish there was a central lift point so I could drive up the ramps and get the car level on the stands.
I had the 3-ton version and used it in anger 2 times on a 33ft travel trailer on the side of the road.
The 2-ton version needs 8.6" clearance and I measured more than that to the front lift points. I also just bought this puck off Amazon. Flat Jacking Puck
I almost bought a Jack Rod but decided to go with the Powerbilt.
The plan is to lower the car after I start draining oil and let it sit at a level attitude.
I'm a little nervous with the 0w-20 oil vice what I would think is a more normal 30 weight. I bought the fancy Motul oil instead of going with a 229.71 Mobil 1 (aka cheaper jugs from Walmart) spec oil or the huge amount of 0w or 5w-30 oils that meet the earlier specs.
If you guys don't own a cordless ratchet, go get one! They are game changers. You can slowly remove the drain plug and NOT get hot oil on yourself. Plus just removing the fasteners is quick and easy.
I still need to buy the socket for the filter (27mm) but should have everything else. I do plan to use a torque wrench as well.
I'll take some pics and post once I get this done.
I would do some researches regarding market specific legislation, as maybe the Warranty is more important than any cheap DIY. Is quite common sense to document into the central server the Oil maintence...as the future could need this info.
Reading about all the costs and effort folks are going through to change their own oil in this thread, makes my decision to take advantage of a lifetime oil change service at my dealer when I purchased the vehicle new (not sure if that offer was unique to my dealership or available elsewhere) seem quite wise and cost beneficial. I believe the cost was around $1,200. I get the oil and filter changed every six months. I'm not sure what the normal cost is for that service but I'm pretty sure that after 4 + years of owning the car I'm well past the break even point. I love my 450 and plan on keeping it for many more years - and 'free' oil changes.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by DavidBN
Reading about all the costs and effort folks are going through to change their own oil in this thread, makes my decision to take advantage of a lifetime oil change service at my dealer when I purchased the vehicle new (not sure if that offer was unique to my dealership or available elsewhere) seem quite wise and cost beneficial. I believe the cost was around $1,200. I get the oil and filter changed every six months. I'm not sure what the normal cost is for that service but I'm pretty sure that after 4 + years of owning the car I'm well past the break even point. I love my 450 and plan on keeping it for many more years - and 'free' oil changes.
So, filter and oil changes at 6 months? That is more often than specified, unless the package you bought specified something different. But, I guess if you've been doing that, it is working for you.
What does your dealer consider "lifetime"? As long as you own the car?
That sounds like a good deal, depending on how many miles you put on the car. Personally, I would not go more than 5000 miles on a change interval, especially with a turbo engine.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by trigital
I would do some researches regarding market specific legislation, as maybe the Warranty is more important than any cheap DIY. Is quite common sense to document into the central server the Oil maintence...as the future could need this info.
In the US, you need to show receipts for your supplies/materials if you are going to DIY, as well as records of some sort showing dates and mileage of the service.
In the US, you need to show receipts for your supplies/materials if you are going to DIY, as well as records of some sort showing dates and mileage of the service.
This^.
Plus make sure all the parts and fluid are MB approved.
I think it's a good idea to check with a service manager beforehand, so you're on the same page.
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