Halogen to HID success!
04-09-2017, 11:10 AM
#126
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2010 ML350
So I have a 2016 GLE 350 w/ stock halogen and would like to do the retrofit. It appears that I need the Hylux canbus. Looking at the site for the retrofit source, what all parts(part #) and quantity do I need to tackle this project? I'm seeing differing answers, I do want the Hylux can bus as it appears to be alleviate some of the issues. I ask because TRS site seems confusing w/ "used parts" etc. I want brand new parts please. thank u in advance.
04-12-2017, 08:56 PM
#128
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2017 GLE 350 4Matic
Shizmd
I worked on my installation this past weekend and all worked quite well.
I found a Hylux set on Amazon at a substantial lower price ($80) than other vendors mentioned here. This is what I ordered
and
It seems to work perfectly, lights come up properly in Auto setting or manually, no flickering or other "noises".
The guys at Third Gear Performance (the vendor on Amazon) called me back when I had a question.
The only issues I had is that I didn't know if the the little flange on the European adapter (see picture attached) goes on the little gap between the metal base and the "plastic" holder or stay on the outside (marked 'here' in the picture). As I installed the lights during the weekend I couldn't call Third Gear to ask and thus in my installation I decide to put the flange in the gap between the metal base and the plastic. That way the bulb is straight when installed into the European bulb adapter.
I worked on my installation this past weekend and all worked quite well.
I found a Hylux set on Amazon at a substantial lower price ($80) than other vendors mentioned here. This is what I ordered
and
It seems to work perfectly, lights come up properly in Auto setting or manually, no flickering or other "noises".
The guys at Third Gear Performance (the vendor on Amazon) called me back when I had a question.
The only issues I had is that I didn't know if the the little flange on the European adapter (see picture attached) goes on the little gap between the metal base and the "plastic" holder or stay on the outside (marked 'here' in the picture). As I installed the lights during the weekend I couldn't call Third Gear to ask and thus in my installation I decide to put the flange in the gap between the metal base and the plastic. That way the bulb is straight when installed into the European bulb adapter.
04-19-2017, 01:12 PM
#129
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Location: West Covina, CA
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2016 GLE350 4Matic
Finally got everything working! Had issues with morimoto canbus causing driver side lights to turn "on off on and staying off" and passenger side "on off on." Switched to Hylux and everything works beautifully like it's suppose to!
Highly recommend AznOptics!
04-19-2017, 02:43 PM
#130
Did you had to splice/cut wires or any other part?. And also could you please share a photo of your headlights with headlights on.
H7 bulb is 55W bulb. What I am noticing is all are using Hylux 35W. Will this not give less light. Why not 55W hylux?
Appreciate reply.
04-19-2017, 02:45 PM
#131
And also how much did the whole thing cost you?
How many hours of work was it. I am not technical at all and paranoid that I might mess up electronics. Depending on number of hours I will give this task to Dealership. Glad they are ready to do the upgrade for me.
04-19-2017, 09:04 PM
#132
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ml55 amg
2017 GLE 350 I just tried the Morimoto Kit from retrofit source . 55watt w/ canbus as they suggestion . It didn't work. Passenger side worked but the drivers side just kept flickering. even swapped ballasts and wires side to side and still nothing pretty bumped out. the Halogens are terrible. My wife cant see anything at night.
04-19-2017, 10:09 PM
#133
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2016 GLE350 4Matic
I did not have to splice or cut any wires. All you have to do is cut a hole in the cap that protects the headlamp enclosure. I was told the 55w runs hotter and not much of a diff from the 35w so that's why I went with the 35w. Really happy with the results!
With shipping the whole thing costed about 160$ but someone posted above with the link from amazon for 80$. Took me about an hour and I didn't have to remove my wheels because you can clearly see where the clip goes. I was going to have someone install it for me since I've never installed HIDs before but gave it a try since everyone was saying how doable it was. I really recommend trying to install yourself it's not too bad.
04-20-2017, 12:52 PM
#134
I did not have to splice or cut any wires. All you have to do is cut a hole in the cap that protects the headlamp enclosure. I was told the 55w runs hotter and not much of a diff from the 35w so that's why I went with the 35w. Really happy with the results!
With shipping the whole thing costed about 160$ but someone posted above with the link from amazon for 80$. Took me about an hour and I didn't have to remove my wheels because you can clearly see where the clip goes. I was going to have someone install it for me since I've never installed HIDs before but gave it a try since everyone was saying how doable it was. I really recommend trying to install yourself it's not too bad.
Do you see farther and brighter with the new HID lights? How much would you rate on a scale of 10. 10 being highest. Old ones and new ones.
1 hours does not sound bad, with my skills I am OK if it takes for me 3 hours.
I know its too much to ask but is it possible for you to give step by step direction on what to do on each step like which wire to remove and where to plug the hylux. A picture of hylux in the hood and of cut out of cap will be appreciated and all tools I need to get job done.
Also, is the amazon link($80) that is for hylux is it the same component you installed or yours is better one.
Appreciate your reply. I know I am asking too much sorry.
04-20-2017, 10:45 PM
#137
MBWorld Fanatic!
No indication of problems.
With that said, I agree with you that it looks troublesome. This SUV is so boaty that even slight throttle sends the headlights to the sky. I always thought the heads shined high, and under acceleration it's even worse.
I adjusted mine down a couple notches and I still think it's high. They shine lower than stock for sure, but side by side still higher than my X5M. In any event, no complaints fro on coming traffic so I'll keep them where they are.
With that said, I agree with you that it looks troublesome. This SUV is so boaty that even slight throttle sends the headlights to the sky. I always thought the heads shined high, and under acceleration it's even worse.
I adjusted mine down a couple notches and I still think it's high. They shine lower than stock for sure, but side by side still higher than my X5M. In any event, no complaints fro on coming traffic so I'll keep them where they are.
05-23-2017, 06:03 PM
#138
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2010 ML350
help
so I'm struggling. I'm able to remove the low beam bulb, and inserted the morimoto h7 bulb, i also got a square euro adapter. I'm confused, is the bulb supposed to be secured to the headlight assembly by this adapter alone? I see the two metal where it latches onto, however, with just the bulb and the euro adapter, the bulb is still loose within the assembly. Am I missing something? I'm accessing the driver side first, via the wheel well hole. Am I supposed to use another type of adapter? stock? What about the black stock harness? the plugs are different. Please advise, thanks in advance! Frustrated!
06-02-2017, 12:01 PM
#139
Shizmd
I worked on my installation this past weekend and all worked quite well.
I found a Hylux set on Amazon at a substantial lower price ($80) than other vendors mentioned here. This is what I ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It seems to work perfectly, lights come up properly in Auto setting or manually, no flickering or other "noises".
The guys at Third Gear Performance (the vendor on Amazon) called me back when I had a question.
The only issues I had is that I didn't know if the the little flange on the European adapter (see picture attached) goes on the little gap between the metal base and the "plastic" holder or stay on the outside (marked 'here' in the picture). As I installed the lights during the weekend I couldn't call Third Gear to ask and thus in my installation I decide to put the flange in the gap between the metal base and the plastic. That way the bulb is straight when installed into the European bulb adapter.
I worked on my installation this past weekend and all worked quite well.
I found a Hylux set on Amazon at a substantial lower price ($80) than other vendors mentioned here. This is what I ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It seems to work perfectly, lights come up properly in Auto setting or manually, no flickering or other "noises".
The guys at Third Gear Performance (the vendor on Amazon) called me back when I had a question.
The only issues I had is that I didn't know if the the little flange on the European adapter (see picture attached) goes on the little gap between the metal base and the "plastic" holder or stay on the outside (marked 'here' in the picture). As I installed the lights during the weekend I couldn't call Third Gear to ask and thus in my installation I decide to put the flange in the gap between the metal base and the plastic. That way the bulb is straight when installed into the European bulb adapter.
06-02-2017, 12:32 PM
#140
SPONSOR/MBworld Guru
These items that you got from amazon, how do they differ from the Hylux system that is available from TheRetrofitsource.com. RFS kit is $135 without the adaptor and Amazon is much cheaper. Is it the bulbs that are different? Does that make a big difference? I just want to make sure I get a quality kit that doesn't give me problems down the road. I like saving money but if it's at the cost of reliability I'd gladly pay a bit more.
06-02-2017, 01:06 PM
#141
The difference from what you see on Amazon is you get a Morimoto blended kit with higher end Morimoto bulbs and HD relay. We can beat that price on TRS. Shoot us a PM or email us directly at aznoptics@gmail.com.
06-02-2017, 02:12 PM
#142
SPONSOR/MBworld Guru
06-08-2017, 02:30 PM
#143
WHere are you guys mounting the ballasts for the hids on your gle's? I just got my kit from AZNoptics and want to get it installed this weekend but I don't know where to mount the ballasts? Or how to mount the ballasts for that matter. Are they supposed to come with mounting hardware or brackets?
06-08-2017, 03:00 PM
#145
Also so has anyone pulled the entire headlight out to make install easy use and more rims for mounting? How hard is it to take the headlight assembly out?
06-08-2017, 04:01 PM
#147
Also so has anyone pulled the entire headlight out to make install easy use and more rims for mounting? How hard is it to take the headlight assembly out?
06-20-2017, 04:25 PM
#149
I've had the Morimoto kit installed for over a year now and started to have problems with the driver's side headlight going off on engine start up. There's a method I use to make it stay on but the results are inconsistent and I don't want to have to spend 5-10 mins every time I need to drive at night. Long story short, I just ordered the Hylux 2A88 Canbus ballasts and will replace the Morimoto ballasts. Hoping their igniters will do the trick. There's definitely an issue with the Morimoto igniters.
06-22-2017, 03:34 PM
#150
I used industrial strength velcro from home depot and I mounted it on the top side of the wheel well against the plastic on top immediately next to the opening where the plastic piece is removed to gain access to the light assembly. I did not want to screw anything in and make any permanent changes in case there is problem I can remove everything and there will be no evidence of any HID kit. I also bought two covers for the headlight to replace the ones I drilled through in case there is a problem. I wouldn't want to dealer to blame me for anything that may go wrong.
Ok, I finished up the GLE 350 this morning. I used Morimoto's new H7 bulbs with the smaller round base that fits the round Euro adapter perfectly from TRS. I used the 35 watt Hylux canbus kit. I used the Morimoto bulb harness. I bought a stepped bit to drill the dust covers. It was worth the money. I have the paddle type bits and the hole saw kits, but the stepped bit was the way to go. I mounted the ballast to the chassis above the wheel well with industrial mounting tape. I could have used velcro or used screws, but mounting tape never fails me if you use denatured alcohol first to clean the surfaces. I used zip ties to secure the canbus and igniter parts to other secured wiring harnesses under the hood. I can remove everything in probably 30 min or less and reinstall the Halogens if necessary.
