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Today at 45k miles I replaced the engine air filter. It took about 20 minutes, and I was working carefully. Next time it will be a 10 minute job.
There were no real surprises. The only surprise was the new cam cover oil leaks I found. More kindergarten-level engineering and manufacturing tasks that Mercedes can't get right on a ten year old engine platform. I'm not looking forward to the misery of debating with the dealer over whether or not these are leaks.
This is a fairly well documented procedure. There are several posts on this site, plus an excellent video by Senior Leigh on YouTube. Senior Leigh also has a website with the video.
Parts:
A 276 094 00 04 engine air filter, $66 at the local dealer parts department
Tools:
85 51 250 C Knipex Click Clamp pliers https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=...16&artID=34588
E10 female torx
T25 male torx
Small, thin flat blade screwdriver
3/8" socket driver
3/8" short extension
damp rag
1. Open hood to service position. Service position is not required, but gives the feeling of more space.
2. Remove engine cover
3. Remove s-shaped air inlet duct, using thin screwdriver to assist with snap fittings
4. Remove intake air temperature sensor wire connector by releasing the white clip, then squeezing the clip toward the connector body, then pull the connector off the sensor.
5. Release the Click Clamp using the Knipex pliers as shown in the video on the Knipex site.
6. Remove two E10 torx screws holding filter housing to engine
7. Remove engine filter housing assembly from engine by lifting up, forward and out. The rubber isolation bushings need to be pulled out of their holders, this requires a tug. The intake duct at the throttle body needs to be rotated and wiggled.
8. Remove the three T25 screws allowing access to the old filter
9. Remove and discard the old air filter.
10. Clean all plastic parts, inside and out, with a damp rag. This makes assembly easier, and will make future disassembly easier.
11. Clean all engine areas that are now accessible with the air filter housing removed. This is how I discovered the cam cover oil leaks.
12. Installation is the reverse of removal.
I drove about 20 miles, and the engine ran smooth and with no warning lights or other issues. The job is completed.
Cam cover oil leak at the forward most ignition coil, passenger side. Kindergarten-level defect. The dealer and Mercedes calls this "vapors".
Cam cover oil leak at the front corner passenger side, near the front cam position sensor cover plate. Kindergarten defect.
Just completed a 700 mile round trip family vacation. The GLE performed well from a towing and hauling point of view.
Fuel economy was 13mpg on each of the 300+ mile legs to and from the destination. Most miles were interstate highway at 75mph with around 1/3 of the miles state and local roads at 60mph. Vehicle load was one adult, 3,500lb boat, two adult bikes and the luggage compartment packed completely full.
The cargo area swallowed up 5 sets of golf clubs at one time with room to spare, with both seats folded down and two adults in front.
p.s. I experienced a tire blowout on the boat trailer at 75mph, and the GLE handled safely and confidently. I decelerated, moved to the shoulder, changed the tire, and was back on the road in 15 minutes.
After 14 months of owernship, a report is submitted herewith. I will update this over time.
Vehicle: 2017 W166 GLE350 4MATIC with P2 package, trailer hitch, LED lights, and Parktronic, standard steel spring suspension with 20" 5 spoke wheels. Black exterior and black MB-Tex interior. I purchased the vehicle pre-owned with 3,000 miles on it, and it has been dealer serviced during my ownership. It is now coming up on 30,000 miles.
Overall, I really enjoy this vehicle. I came out of a 2011 VW TDI Touareg that I put 238k miles on. I use a vehicle for highway cruising, both for work and for family trips, so comfort at speed and luggage capacity are priorities. Towing is another priority, because I pull a 3,000lb boat a few times each year. I have run several vehicles beyond 200k miles, and am familiar with what it takes to achieve high mileage, and I choose vehicles based on the potential to achieve high mileage. I prefer the German design ethos in vehicles, and have several German brands in the family fleet.
The GLE350 is a comfortable highway cruiser; it swallows up luggage, and tows a boat well. Suspension and seats are excellent for long 700 mile trips at 70mph-80mph. The climate control and infotainment systems do their jobs well. Towing is a very stable and secure experience, with capable steering and plenty of power. The Mercedes exterior appearance, while subjective, is a positive for me. Quality of materials and interior design are excellent, and body rigidity is very good. MB-Tex seating surfaces are rugged, comfortable, attractive and easy to clean. Subtle details like placement, direction and intensity of interior lighting are pleasant surprises. Use of interior dome and reading lights by passengers is possible, without detracting from the driver's night vision. This vehicle seem like it will be reliable, based on only one warranty claim so far - for a cracked wood door trim panel.
One of my favorite features of the vehicle is the harman kardon audio system - it rocks.
A few characteristics are, for me, neutral and unimpressive. The M276 3.5L naturally aspirated V6 gets 22mpg on the freeway, in the best of conditions. This is not impressive. I use 93 octane fuel, exclusively. Braking power when towing leaves something to be desired. The 7G-Tronic can be clunky in certain situations. 20" wheels and tires are not comfortable on poor surfaces, I know of no other way to say this. The Conti Cross Contact LX Sport tires have mediocre, at best, tire wear.
In summary, I am a generally satisfied owner, and see that this vehicle can run beyond 200k miles, with the necessary maintenance that all vehicles require.
Changed spark plugs a few days ago, at 47k miles. Tough job, it took over 4 hours. I will be faster at it next time, but tricky steps remain.
Generally I followed the work of Senior Leigh on YouTube. He has excellent videos on YouTube, and instructions on his site. I will link to all of this below.
The only points I will note are differences between the W212 E 350 in Senior Leigh's videos, and the W166 GLE 350.
- Right (passenger side North America) spark plugs 1, 2 and 3 are fairly easy. It took me 1 hour to replace them, and it will take me 30 minutes the next time I do this job.
- Left (driver side North America) spark plugs 4, 5 and 6 were difficult. The main reason is the metal bracket that holds the ECU and other items. Ideally it should be removed, and is likely not difficult. However, I was able to manage to complete the job without removing it, and Senior Leigh did not remove it in his videos.
- W166 GLE vs W212 E-Class differences:
-- rear corner bulkheads need to be removed on the GLE
-- slight differences in the ECU connector, wire and hose routing are slightly different between the vehicles. This affects access to remove the coils on the driver side. Removing the metal ECU bracket would help in this case
-- I have the impression the E-Class fenders are lower relative to the engine, compared with the GLE. Because the GLE is a taller vehicle, and has seemingly taller fenders, reaching into the engine bay on the crowded driver side is a challenging part of this job
- Caution regarding the ECU connectors, there are two of them. When re-installing one of them (I think the smaller rear one) the radiator fan turns on to high speed for about 20 seconds, then turns off. This can be dangerous if you are not expecting it, and there is an item of clothing or body part near the fan. Senior Leigh did not disconnect the battery in his procedure. I did not disconnect the battery.
Additional comments:
- spark plug electrodes look OK, but the threads were blacker than I would expect
- M-B assembly grease on the spark plugs is very thick and dry. This caused difficulty in removing the coils. Is there a special M-B tool to remove spark plug boots? The curved jaw Lisle pliers were OK, not great, for this.
- smear the lightest film possible of dielectric grease on the jackets of all mating electrical connectors. Dust gets in between the connector halves, and acts as an abrasive and prevents easy separation of the mating halves.
- removing the coil electrical connectors was fiddly, but not the hardest part of the job.
- the 14mm thin wall 12 point deep socket was excellent, see Senior Leigh's site for part number.
- I didn't get in-process photos of the driver side because I was getting tired and frustrated and wanted the job finished.
I started the engine after replacing plugs 1, 2 and 3. Smooth running, no problems.
After installing plugs 4, 5 and 6, the engine started and ran smoothly, but the check engine light was on. I went for a test drive and there were no problems, no vibration, misfires, etc. The check engine light remained on. I took it to an auto parts store to have the code read - P0113 Intake Air Temperature Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input. After the act of reading the code, the check engine light did not return when I restarted the engine. The code has not returned in three days. I think the code was thrown during re-installation of the ECU connectors and the radiator fan cycled.
Yesterday I replaced both key fob batteries. I was getting the "key not found" error multiple times, and the start button stopped working (twist key method still worked). So I replaced both batteries and everything works.
Next week I will have the dealer do the 50k oil change at 48k miles. I am taking a trip out west and will exceed 50k miles. I am arguing with the dealer about replacing cam cover gaskets because of oil leaks, so I want this appointment well before 50k miles.
Both cam covers are similar, the passenger side is worse, and an increasing amount of oil is oozing out. The leak is either cam covers or the front cover plate holding the cam adjuster/sensors, or both.
Changed spark plugs a few days ago, at 47k miles. Tough job, it took over 4 hours. I will be faster at it next time, but tricky steps remain.
Generally I followed the work of Senior Leigh on YouTube. He has excellent videos on YouTube, and instructions on his site. I will link to all of this below.
The only points I will note are differences between the W212 E 350 in Senior Leigh's videos, and the W166 GLE 350.
- Right (passenger side North America) spark plugs 1, 2 and 3 are fairly easy. It took me 1 hour to replace them, and it will take me 30 minutes the next time I do this job.
- Left (driver side North America) spark plugs 4, 5 and 6 were difficult. The main reason is the metal bracket that holds the ECU and other items. Ideally it should be removed, and is likely not difficult. However, I was able to manage to complete the job without removing it, and Senior Leigh did not remove it in his videos.
- W166 GLE vs W212 E-Class differences:
-- rear corner bulkheads need to be removed on the GLE
-- slight differences in the ECU connector, wire and hose routing are slightly different between the vehicles. This affects access to remove the coils on the driver side. Removing the metal ECU bracket would help in this case
-- I have the impression the E-Class fenders are lower relative to the engine, compared with the GLE. Because the GLE is a taller vehicle, and has seemingly taller fenders, reaching into the engine bay on the crowded driver side is a challenging part of this job
- Caution regarding the ECU connectors, there are two of them. When re-installing one of them (I think the smaller rear one) the radiator fan turns on to high speed for about 20 seconds, then turns off. This can be dangerous if you are not expecting it, and there is an item of clothing or body part near the fan. Senior Leigh did not disconnect the battery in his procedure. I did not disconnect the battery.
Additional comments:
- spark plug electrodes look OK, but the threads were blacker than I would expect
- M-B assembly grease on the spark plugs is very thick and dry. This caused difficulty in removing the coils. Is there a special M-B tool to remove spark plug boots? The curved jaw Lisle pliers were OK, not great, for this.
- smear the lightest film possible of dielectric grease on the jackets of all mating electrical connectors. Dust gets in between the connector halves, and acts as an abrasive and prevents easy separation of the mating halves.
- removing the coil electrical connectors was fiddly, but not the hardest part of the job.
- the 14mm thin wall 12 point deep socket was excellent, see Senior Leigh's site for part number.
- I didn't get in-process photos of the driver side because I was getting tired and frustrated and wanted the job finished.
I started the engine after replacing plugs 1, 2 and 3. Smooth running, no problems.
After installing plugs 4, 5 and 6, the engine started and ran smoothly, but the check engine light was on. I went for a test drive and there were no problems, no vibration, misfires, etc. The check engine light remained on. I took it to an auto parts store to have the code read - P0113 Intake Air Temperature Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input. After the act of reading the code, the check engine light did not return when I restarted the engine. The code has not returned in three days. I think the code was thrown during re-installation of the ECU connectors and the radiator fan cycled.
Wow you are very brave. Time consuming for sure. I would rather pay the MB dealer a few hundred dollars and have them do it properly. Sometimes they have $75-$100 coupons. So totally worth it. You could damage something or install something incorrectly that could lead to other problems later on.
Wow you are very brave. Time consuming for sure. I would rather pay the MB dealer a few hundred dollars and have them do it properly. Sometimes they have $75-$100 coupons. So totally worth it. You could damage something or install something incorrectly that could lead to other problems later on.
Roni, you’re right. But at this point it appears nothing is damaged and things are working properly. So, peril avoided so far.
How much DIY experience do you have, and do you enjoy it? I have almost 40 years of DIY experience, and I enjoy it. I realize not everyone has the time, talent or desire to DIY on their vehicles. But for those that do, the previous few posts are for them.
I answered this in the W212 forum, but my dealership did not resist at all about the oil seepage. They re-sealed both front covers and replaced o-rings in all four cam magnets. My engine looked just like yours. 39K miles.
Roni, you’re right. But at this point it appears nothing is damaged and things are working properly. So, peril avoided so far.
How much DIY experience do you have, and do you enjoy it? I have almost 40 years of DIY experience, and I enjoy it. I realize not everyone has the time, talent or desire to DIY on their vehicles. But for those that do, the previous few posts are for them.
what’s awesome, good for you. That’s why I said, you are very brave. I used to enjoy working on the old, simple engines 240D , old school 1985,6,7. Today’s engine’s are very crowded with tech and complex, not to mention The requirement of special tools 🛠. Obviously it’s a lot cheaper if you can do your own brakes, engine tune-up, etc.
Comments on spark plug replacment WIS vs Senior Leigh's procedure:
- WIS indicates the intake manifold should be removed. This is not necessary, and is not part of Senior Leigh's procedure.
- WIS does not indicate the engine ECU should be removed. This is necessary, and is part of Senior Leigh's procedure.
My own note:
- WIS does not indicate the 2 corner bulkhead panels should be removed, this is necessary to reach the two rearmost coils and spark plugs. Each corner bulkhead panel is held by 2 easy to access small fasteners and requires less than 5 minutes to remove, once the bulkhead seal (gasket) is removed, which itself is a 30 second job.
Aston Martin Vantage, GLE 43 AMG, Volvo XC60, BMW X1 35i, Ram 1500, BMW Z4 35i
Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
I answered this in the W212 forum, but my dealership did not resist at all about the oil seepage. They re-sealed both front covers and replaced o-rings in all four cam magnets. My engine looked just like yours. 39K miles.
Whats the best way to look at and identify this oil seepage. Had our 2017 GLE 43 for a couple of months and had not really gone thru the engine compartment other that to add a Dinan tune
Whats the best way to look at and identify this oil seepage. Had our 2017 GLE 43 for a couple of months and had not really gone thru the engine compartment other that to add a Dinan tune
@whitewagon The leak is in the forward/right corner of both of my cam covers/cam adjuster cover plates. The driver side (North America) is easy to see when the plastic engine cover is removed, no tools required. The worse leak on my engine is on the right side/passenger side, and is best seen when the engine air filter housing is removed, tools are required for this. The photos in this thread show both leaks.
The GLE 43 uses a different version of the M276 engine, and removal of covers and other components to see the seepage may be different than on the GLE 350.
Whats the best way to look at and identify this oil seepage. Had our 2017 GLE 43 for a couple of months and had not really gone thru the engine compartment other that to add a Dinan tune
The leaks took me by surprise. They were noticed during the 40k service by an independent mechanic. There is a tech on this forum who has said that Mercedes themselves (paraphrasing) will not tell you about these leaks, even if they notice them during service. Something about warranty scamming.
I had always planned to check it eventually but I wasn't counting on just 39,000 miles.
Got the vehicle back today from the dealer. Big thanks to @LILBENZ230 for the support. It looks like the work done on my GLE is the same that was done on his E350.
I am of the opinion that the cam covers are also leaking, not just the front cam sensor covers, which the dealer re-sealed with RTV and installed new cam sensor o-rings. The cam covers are another order of magnitude worth of work to replace.
The dealer did not clean off the leaking oil residue, so I will do this thoroughly with solvent and this be able to watch over time for new leaks. I have done this in the past with a high mileage vehicle and it allows keeping a very close watch on seeping and leaking fluids. I keep the engine bay almost clean enough to eat off, which for me is part of running a vehicle to very high mileage. I hope to run this GLE to 200k miles unless life has other plans.
After 14 months of owernship, a report is submitted herewith. I will update this over time.
Vehicle: 2017 W166 GLE350 4MATIC with P2 package, trailer hitch, LED lights, and Parktronic, standard steel spring suspension with 20" 5 spoke wheels. Black exterior and black MB-Tex interior. I purchased the vehicle pre-owned with 3,000 miles on it, and it has been dealer serviced during my ownership. It is now coming up on 30,000 miles.
Overall, I really enjoy this vehicle. I came out of a 2011 VW TDI Touareg that I put 238k miles on. I use a vehicle for highway cruising, both for work and for family trips, so comfort at speed and luggage capacity are priorities. Towing is another priority, because I pull a 3,000lb boat a few times each year. I have run several vehicles beyond 200k miles, and am familiar with what it takes to achieve high mileage, and I choose vehicles based on the potential to achieve high mileage. I prefer the German design ethos in vehicles, and have several German brands in the family fleet.
The GLE350 is a comfortable highway cruiser; it swallows up luggage, and tows a boat well. Suspension and seats are excellent for long 700 mile trips at 70mph-80mph. The climate control and infotainment systems do their jobs well. Towing is a very stable and secure experience, with capable steering and plenty of power. The Mercedes exterior appearance, while subjective, is a positive for me. Quality of materials and interior design are excellent, and body rigidity is very good. MB-Tex seating surfaces are rugged, comfortable, attractive and easy to clean. Subtle details like placement, direction and intensity of interior lighting are pleasant surprises. Use of interior dome and reading lights by passengers is possible, without detracting from the driver's night vision. This vehicle seem like it will be reliable, based on only one warranty claim so far - for a cracked wood door trim panel.
One of my favorite features of the vehicle is the harman kardon audio system - it rocks.
A few characteristics are, for me, neutral and unimpressive. The M276 3.5L naturally aspirated V6 gets 22mpg on the freeway, in the best of conditions. This is not impressive. I use 93 octane fuel, exclusively. Braking power when towing leaves something to be desired. The 7G-Tronic can be clunky in certain situations. 20" wheels and tires are not comfortable on poor surfaces, I know of no other way to say this. The Conti Cross Contact LX Sport tires have mediocre, at best, tire wear.
In summary, I am a generally satisfied owner, and see that this vehicle can run beyond 200k miles, with the necessary maintenance that all vehicles require.
Glad you got this sorted. I have not yet looked at my engine to see if they cleaned it up, but I will report back. Keep me posted if you notice it leaking from somewhere else.
this will be on my list of warranty review items before it expires in April
@whitewagon good idea. Also have a look at all four door wood trim panels. These crack relatively often. My dealer didn’t give me any pushback on warranty coverage, unlike the oil leak above which I needed to push them on.
If you’re up for it, crawl under the vehicle and look at the bottom where the engine meets the transmission. I have oil seepage there that the dealer wouldn’t take action on. I have the M276 + 7G-Tronic.
After 14 months of owernship, a report is submitted herewith. I will update this over time.
Vehicle: 2017 W166 GLE350 4MATIC with P2 package, trailer hitch, LED lights, and Parktronic, standard steel spring suspension with 20" 5 spoke wheels. Black exterior and black MB-Tex interior. I purchased the vehicle pre-owned with 3,000 miles on it, and it has been dealer serviced during my ownership. It is now coming up on 30,000 miles.
Overall, I really enjoy this vehicle. I came out of a 2011 VW TDI Touareg that I put 238k miles on. I use a vehicle for highway cruising, both for work and for family trips, so comfort at speed and luggage capacity are priorities. Towing is another priority, because I pull a 3,000lb boat a few times each year. I have run several vehicles beyond 200k miles, and am familiar with what it takes to achieve high mileage, and I choose vehicles based on the potential to achieve high mileage. I prefer the German design ethos in vehicles, and have several German brands in the family fleet.
The GLE350 is a comfortable highway cruiser; it swallows up luggage, and tows a boat well. Suspension and seats are excellent for long 700 mile trips at 70mph-80mph. The climate control and infotainment systems do their jobs well. Towing is a very stable and secure experience, with capable steering and plenty of power. The Mercedes exterior appearance, while subjective, is a positive for me. Quality of materials and interior design are excellent, and body rigidity is very good. MB-Tex seating surfaces are rugged, comfortable, attractive and easy to clean. Subtle details like placement, direction and intensity of interior lighting are pleasant surprises. Use of interior dome and reading lights by passengers is possible, without detracting from the driver's night vision. This vehicle seem like it will be reliable, based on only one warranty claim so far - for a cracked wood door trim panel.
One of my favorite features of the vehicle is the harman kardon audio system - it rocks.
A few characteristics are, for me, neutral and unimpressive. The M276 3.5L naturally aspirated V6 gets 22mpg on the freeway, in the best of conditions. This is not impressive. I use 93 octane fuel, exclusively. Braking power when towing leaves something to be desired. The 7G-Tronic can be clunky in certain situations. 20" wheels and tires are not comfortable on poor surfaces, I know of no other way to say this. The Conti Cross Contact LX Sport tires have mediocre, at best, tire wear.
In summary, I am a generally satisfied owner, and see that this vehicle can run beyond 200k miles, with the necessary maintenance that all vehicles require.
Now IM curious to crawl under the GLE350 and have a look. That would suck if the dealer knowingly omits to bring this up to the client, due to MB warranty cover up. I hate oil leaks and have had dealers tell me in the past “oh well, it’s just engine sweating””. Such dishonesty
Now IM curious to crawl under the GLE350 and have a look. That would suck if the dealer knowingly omits to bring this up to the client, due to MB warranty cover up. I hate oil leaks and have had dealers tell me in the past “oh well, it’s just engine sweating””. Such dishonesty
@Roni yes this is unfortunately the world we live in. M-B products are so riddled with quality problems that M-B and dealers probably do everything they can to deflect and deny the consumer, otherwise M-B would go broke and the dealer service bays would be filled with nothing but warranty work. I have worked in manufacturing my entire career and in general this how some companies work.
Aston Martin Vantage, GLE 43 AMG, Volvo XC60, BMW X1 35i, Ram 1500, BMW Z4 35i
Originally Posted by chassis
@whitewagon good idea. Also have a look at all four door wood trim panels. These crack relatively often. My dealer didn’t give me any pushback on warranty coverage, unlike the oil leak above which I needed to push them on.
If you’re up for it, crawl under the vehicle and look at the bottom where the engine meets the transmission. I have oil seepage there that the dealer wouldn’t take action on. I have the M276 + 7G-Tronic.
Good idea... I'll get out up on my QuickJack and do some exploring...
I have the CF door panels... no real trouble with interior at this time.
2016 GLE350 4Matic at 65K miles was at the dealer MBofSA for. Rear Brake Pads replacement, spark plugs and engine filter. Total came to apprx $1,500 parts+labour+taxes. And of course the greatest Mercedes cover up - Engine oil leak that MB won’t admit to nor address as a Recall. The dealer called it a perspiration (not an oil leak). It’s a friggin oil leak what else is it ?! The dealer found on my vehicle as well. Not impressed this is a MB factory engine defect that MB won’t admit to. Fixed under warranty.
“DURING INSPECTION FOUND OIL ON ENCAP PANELS --REF# 025210 LEFT AND RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD FRONT COVERS ARE LEAKING
W08... LOCATED LEAK COMING FROM LEFT AND RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD FRONT COVERS. R&R INTAKE AND RE-SEALED BOTH FRONT COVERS. CLEANED OIL LEAK AND RE-INSTALLED IN REVERSE ORDER.”
Engine Oil leak on a $75K On a new luxury vehicle is unacceptable. Not to mention the AC evap - mildew/ mould/ smell/door coming into the cabin that there was a class action lawsuit against MB. Mercedes won’t admit to it and says there is no problems and wants me to pay $350 to have the AC evap can cleaned and rinsed. The dealer said to us before that’s normal because its summer heat. LOL no kidding it’s hot in TX alright. It’s not MB product but the climate in TX. I totally get it !
2016 GLE350 4Matic at 65K miles was at the dealer MBofSA for. Rear Brake Pads replacement, spark plugs and engine filter. Total came to apprx $1,500 parts+labour+taxes. And of course the greatest Mercedes cover up - Engine oil leak that MB won’t admit to nor address as a Recall. The dealer called it a perspiration (not an oil leak). It’s a friggin oil leak what else is it ?! The dealer found on my vehicle as well. Not impressed this is a MB factory engine defect that MB won’t admit to. Fixed under warranty.
“DURING INSPECTION FOUND OIL ON ENCAP PANELS --REF# 025210 LEFT AND RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD FRONT COVERS ARE LEAKING
W08... LOCATED LEAK COMING FROM LEFT AND RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD FRONT COVERS. R&R INTAKE AND RE-SEALED BOTH FRONT COVERS. CLEANED OIL LEAK AND RE-INSTALLED IN REVERSE ORDER.”
Engine Oil leak on a $75K On a new luxury vehicle is unacceptable. Not to mention the AC evap - mildew/ mould/ smell/door coming into the cabin that there was a class action lawsuit against MB. Mercedes won’t admit to it and says there is no problems and wants me to pay $350 to have the AC evap can cleaned and rinsed. The dealer said to us before that’s normal because its summer heat. LOL no kidding it’s hot in TX alright. It’s not MB product but the climate in TX. I totally get it !
@Roni07 Did you get the oil leak repaired under warranty? Also, are you aware that a HVAC system "treatment", or cleaning, is available to you at no cost? You should have received a card in the mail from Mercedes stating this.
@Roni07 Did you get the oil leak repaired under warranty? Also, are you aware that a HVAC system "treatment", or cleaning, is available to you at no cost? You should have received a card in the mail from Mercedes stating this.
-Yes, the oil leak was repaired under warranty.
I wasn’t aware that AC treatment is available to me for free. No haven’t received a card from MB in this. I’d do however receive the class action settlement card from the law firm, in the mail. My dealer advisor told me I have to pay $350 for it.
-Yes, the oil leak was repaired under warranty.
I wasn’t aware that AC treatment is available to me for free. No haven’t received a card from MB in this. I’d do however receive the class action settlement card from the law firm, in the mail. My dealer advisor told me I have to pay $350 for it.
@Roni07 Yes, that’s the card. Take it to your dealer or text the SA a photo of it when you schedule your appointment.
07-14-2020, 10:05 PM
