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For the dust and carbon filters, how are aftermarket filters with regard to a lot of people using aftermarket for the oil filter?
I use Mann engine oil filters purchased at Advance Auto Parts. I buy cabin and dust filters at the MB dealership or ordered online from MB dealers. Is this what you mean @GLE John ?
I use Mann engine oil filters purchased at Advance Auto Parts. I buy cabin and dust filters at the MB dealership or ordered online from MB dealers. Is this what you mean @GLE John ?
Chassis, yes. I was wondering if Mann or another maker has cabin and dust filters. Fram and K&N for example may perform reasonably for the air filters.
Chassis, yes. I was wondering if Mann or another maker has cabin and dust filters. Fram and K&N for example may perform reasonably for the air filters.
Good question. I haven’t looked for dust or carbon filters from aftermarket sources, maybe another poster has this experience.
Renewed mbrace for two years and $288 for the period. Price seems lower than what I have read on this site. I love the remote start, that is the only reason I renewed.
Ordering the service was excruciatingly painful. It took 5, yes five, phone calls with humans to get this sorted. Why couldn't this have been done online?
Complete incompetence, as is the norm with anything associated with MB. Absolutely not the best. Definitely close to nothing.
Renewed mbrace for two years and $288 for the period. Price seems lower than what I have read on this site. I love the remote start, that is the only reason I renewed.
Ordering the service was excruciatingly painful. It took 5, yes five, phone calls with humans to get this sorted. Why couldn't this have been done online?
Complete incompetence, as is the norm with anything associated with MB. Absolutely not the best. Definitely close to nothing.
Wouldn't a remote starter be more cost effective in the long run- had you priced out a remote start system? I'd have to price it out locally, but the Mercedes Me app couldn't find my car half the time and took several minutes even standing next to it. Has anything changed with the time it take to communicate with the car? I'm disappointed Mercedes never made it lifetime which I had heard at one time was supposedly a possibility, I don't think I could consider the service until it's substantially less or is reported to work much better than in the past.
Wouldn't a remote starter be more cost effective in the long run- had you priced out a remote start system? I'd have to price it out locally, but the Mercedes Me app couldn't find my car half the time and took several minutes even standing next to it. Has anything changed with the time it take to communicate with the car? I'm disappointed Mercedes never made it lifetime which I had heard at one time was supposedly a possibility, I don't think I could consider the service until it's substantially less or is reported to work much better than in the past.
I am not a fan of aftermarket electrical gizmos, particularly in the starting circuit. So no, I did not price out an aftermarket remote start system.
Response time seems to be better in the past 6 months than in the prior three years. Strangely, this evening the remote start failed to establish connection with the car. It worked this morning (on the new subscription). I'll see how it goes.
Question...I just got onto mbrace. I"m just really interested in remote start, doors lock, etc. So remote start works but then when you go to open the door it shuts off. Seems silly. Is there a way to open the door without the engine shutting off after a remote start?
Question...I just got onto mbrace. I"m just really interested in remote start, doors lock, etc. So remote start works but then when you go to open the door it shuts off. Seems silly. Is there a way to open the door without the engine shutting off after a remote start?
Normal operation. That's how MB designed it, unfortunately.
I clicked on the phone number link in the mbrace app and said “cancel” in the voice command. Instant human response to the “cancel” command.
Good advice on getting routed to the customer retention department for a better deal. I do wonder if this year's renewal is discounted because many features will disappear after the 3G sunset later this year (so you won't be getting a full year's worth of services?).
Changed the oil at 94k miles. The engine seems to be using 1 quart every 10k miles. No leaks so it must be going out the tailpipe. Fuel economy hasn't changed - around 21mpg on the highway. Always used Mobil 1 0W-40 full synth and premium gas.
Dealer-sealed cylinder head front covers two years ago are dry, that is good to verify.
Fairly big list of items on the list this year:
- main battery, it works but 5 years is time
- aux battery, same as above
- brake fluid replacement
- engine air filter
- spark plugs
- coolant replacement
- new tires, the Conti LX25s have been great
- poly-v belt (maybe)
- front brakes (maybe, still on factory pads and rotors)
Changed the oil at 94k miles. The engine seems to be using 1 quart every 10k miles. No leaks so it must be going out the tailpipe. Fuel economy hasn't changed - around 21mpg on the highway. Always used Mobil 1 0W-40 full synth and premium gas.
Dealer-sealed cylinder head front covers two years ago are dry, that is good to verify.
Fairly big list of items on the list this year:
- main battery, it works but 5 years is time
- aux battery, same as above
- brake fluid replacement
- engine air filter
- spark plugs
- coolant replacement
- new tires, the Conti LX25s have been great
- poly-v belt (maybe)
- front brakes (maybe, still on factory pads and rotors)
Plus wipers, oil change, etc.
Some quick questions appreciate your response on those
- brake fluid replacement : When did you do the last time? You mean brake fluid bleeding
- spark plugs: When is the recommended time period for the spark plugs?
- coolant replacement: Drain and fill or Flush?
- front brakes (maybe, still on factory pads and rotors): That's good to hear that Factory pads can go to almost 100 K miles. Or I misunderstood
Also good to know what dealer charge to do all those ( except tires )
- brake fluid was last done September 2020. MB (and BMW) specifies time-based, not mileage-based, brake fluid replacement because of water absorption. MB describes the procedure in WIS as brake fluid replacement, not bleeding. The bleed screws are used in the procedure to replace the brake fluid. Approx $300 at the dealer. 1-1.5 hours plus materials.
- spark plugs at 50k miles, approx $600 or more at the dealer, prices vary. 4 hours plus materials.
- coolant replacement is drain and refill, approx $400 at the dealer or so. 2 hours plus materials.
- yes almost 100k miles on factory fronts. I got 120k miles out of factory fronts and rears on a 2010 VW Touareg, that vehicle was a true machine! Pads and rotors are approx $500-$600 per axle, but that's a guess.
Dealer cost estimates are real guesses. I don't keep up to date on it because I generally DIY, except for transmission fluid replacement. Probably I will use the dealer also for coolant replacement because the volume of fluid to be disposed of is a hassle.
- brake fluid was last done September 2020. MB (and BMW) specifies time-based, not mileage-based, brake fluid replacement because of water absorption. MB describes the procedure in WIS as brake fluid replacement, not bleeding. The bleed screws are used in the procedure to replace the brake fluid. Approx $300 at the dealer. 1-1.5 hours plus materials.
- spark plugs at 50k miles, approx $600 or more at the dealer, prices vary. 4 hours plus materials.
- coolant replacement is drain and refill, approx $400 at the dealer or so. 2 hours plus materials.
- yes almost 100k miles on factory fronts. I got 120k miles out of factory fronts and rears on a 2010 VW Touareg, that vehicle was a true machine! Pads and rotors are approx $500-$600 per axle, but that's a guess.
Dealer cost estimates are real guesses. I don't keep up to date on it because I generally DIY, except for transmission fluid replacement. Probably I will use the dealer also for coolant replacement because the volume of fluid to be disposed of is a hassle.
Changed the oil at 94k miles. The engine seems to be using 1 quart every 10k miles. No leaks so it must be going out the tailpipe. Fuel economy hasn't changed - around 21mpg on the highway. Always used Mobil 1 0W-40 full synth and premium gas.
Dealer-sealed cylinder head front covers two years ago are dry, that is good to verify.
Fairly big list of items on the list this year:
- main battery, it works but 5 years is time
- aux battery, same as above
- brake fluid replacement
- engine air filter
- spark plugs
- coolant replacement
- new tires, the Conti LX25s have been great
- poly-v belt (maybe)
- front brakes (maybe, still on factory pads and rotors)
Plus wipers, oil change, etc.
On the issue of the dealer sealing the cylinder head covers. Just for an old guy, is this what we used to call Valve covers on car? Did you have a burnt oil smell before finding this or did the dealer just discover this during normal maintenance. I had an oil smell on my 2015 ML350 (75,681 miles) , and mentioned it to the dealer during an oil change. They resealed both front covers and replaced O rings. Cost was 996.00, Is that the same thing they did you your car ?
Thanks
@Isawelvis Valve covers are not the front cylinder head covers.
"Covers" on an engine:
- cam covers: also known as valve covers or rocker covers
- front cover: covers the timing chain and usually surrounds the crankshaft
- front cylinder head covers: small flat plates in front of the cam sprockets, that contain the cam magnets.
My front cylinder head covers were leaking and I had to badger the jackhandle dealer three times to get it resealed under warranty.
Replaced the engine air filter at 94,500 miles. It was needed. Generally dirty and also a surprising pile of Japanese beetles.
Part A2760940004 in stock at the local dealer for $62.00 + tax.
I opened the cam position sensor connector farthest from the ECU and no signs of oil.
Next jobs are tire rotation, main battery and aux battery. Other stuff will be later this year: brake fluid, spark plugs, coolant replacement, poly-v belt, maybe transmission fluid.
Parts experience today:
1. Looked up part price on mbparts.mbusa.com, $62.00 plus delivery.
2. Called local dealer, he quoted me $74.00 in stock. I asked if he could sell it to me for $70. He said no because they don't compete with online sellers.
3. Called another dealer an hour away, he quoted me $62.00 in stock. I said thanks.
4. Called the local dealer back, a different person answered the phone. He quoted me $74.00. I asked can he match another dealer at $62.00. He said yes. Done deal.
Rotated the tires today. Wire brushed the rust off the rotor and wheel pilot, and smeared a thin film of grease on the wheel pilot. Winter salt wreaks havoc and makes getting the wheels off a pain.
4/32nds on the tires, a new set will be needed in a couple of months. Strong recommend for the 20" Conti CrossContact LX25 tires. All of the traction, and more comfortable, quieter and longer wearing than the factory Conti CrossContact LX Sport; the factory tires are rubbish in my view.
9.5-10mm on the rear pads, rotors are smooth. I did the rear brakes a while back.
6mm on the front factory pads, factory rotors are grooved. No wobbling or vibration when braking. So 3mm left to go, this is around 12k km/7.5k miles using MB's rule of thumb. Sometime this summer they will be ready for replacement.
Ball joint boots, stabilizer bar link boots, steering rack boots and CV joint boots all look good. No grease, coolant or oil leaks anywhere.
I did the pre-work for main battery replacement. Cut the carpet on the score lines (pretty easy if you go slowly) and removed the floor air duct. I wasn't able to flip the carpet forward as WIS suggests; there is a large collection of electrical connectors under the seat that makes this difficult. I will try to do the battery replacement without flipping the carpet forward.
Access to the battery cable nuts seems reasonable enough. The biggest challenge will be to wrestle the heavy and long battery out of its hiding place.
Replaced the main battery. The vehicle is exactly 5 years old and has 94,500 miles. In very cold weather the starts were just a bit slow/sluggish, so the time was drawing near.
Factory installed part number A0009829108 is now A0019828208, $257.00 + tax + core in stock at the local dealer.
In total the job took almost 2 hours. It's generally a pain, but as usual if you go slowly and methodically, it is doable. Next time the job would take one hour because the carpet has already been cut and because of familiarity.
Follow WIS and you will be successful. The only exception I take to WIS is that the now-cut carpet flap can't (easily or at all) be folded forward to give clear access to the full length of the battery. The passenger seat doesn't go forward enough and the electric connectors under the seat prevent the carpet from being flipped forward. Other than that, it is straightforward.
No electrical anomalies, all memory settings (eg radio station and most recent climate control setting) were retained. I did not use a trickle charger or battery maintainer. The car was either fully “dead” or had a small amount of energy coming from the aux battery which I did not touch.
The new battery did not come with a plug for the unused vent port, so you need to remember to remove the plug from the old battery and reuse it.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
