2016 GLE63s coupe c292 correct oil & Dyi oil change?
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2016 Mercedes AMG GLE63s
2016 GLE63s coupe c292 correct oil & Dyi oil change?
Hi All,
I recently made the move over to MB/AMG & am obsessed with my new beast, but am absolutely petrified around what oil to use and whether I should conduct my own oil change.
Very long story short, i was always an Bmw M loyal follower (i know, i know - what was i thinking!) & had a horrendous experience with my e71 x6m where the dealership was using the wrong oil which eventually led to an endless money pit in repairs & complete lack of care/denial from the dealership...
Im scarred from that experience & am now very hesitant to use any dealership (especially as my MB is out of warranty now).
I have contacted 3 dealerships down here re the correct oil to use (who all gave conflicting info) & also contacted MB Australia who also gave a very broad response - either 0w40 or 5w40, which to me does not help... In my mind i feel that 1 must be superior/optimal over the other and thus I want to know which 1 is best for this beast...
After lots of reading & scouring online I am thinking Mobil 1 0w40 but my mate is saying i should use Mobil 1 5w40 Formula M...
Outside of this, I also read that we shouldnt use the extraction method for an oil change on Amg engines - is this true?
I dont mind doing the old traditional way (draining under the car) but i cant seem to find reliable jack stands that are rated above 3tonnes (and given this beast is very close to that - it makes me nervous!).
I appologise in advance if these questions have been flogged to death, but would really appreciate any solid guidance!
Cheers
Nick
I recently made the move over to MB/AMG & am obsessed with my new beast, but am absolutely petrified around what oil to use and whether I should conduct my own oil change.
Very long story short, i was always an Bmw M loyal follower (i know, i know - what was i thinking!) & had a horrendous experience with my e71 x6m where the dealership was using the wrong oil which eventually led to an endless money pit in repairs & complete lack of care/denial from the dealership...
Im scarred from that experience & am now very hesitant to use any dealership (especially as my MB is out of warranty now).
I have contacted 3 dealerships down here re the correct oil to use (who all gave conflicting info) & also contacted MB Australia who also gave a very broad response - either 0w40 or 5w40, which to me does not help... In my mind i feel that 1 must be superior/optimal over the other and thus I want to know which 1 is best for this beast...
After lots of reading & scouring online I am thinking Mobil 1 0w40 but my mate is saying i should use Mobil 1 5w40 Formula M...
Outside of this, I also read that we shouldnt use the extraction method for an oil change on Amg engines - is this true?
I dont mind doing the old traditional way (draining under the car) but i cant seem to find reliable jack stands that are rated above 3tonnes (and given this beast is very close to that - it makes me nervous!).
I appologise in advance if these questions have been flogged to death, but would really appreciate any solid guidance!
Cheers
Nick
Last edited by 63s; Sep 9, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Oil: 0W-40 or 5W-40 meeting Mercedes certification 229.5
Per https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf
and https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
Per pdf attached, use bottom drain method.
Per https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf
and https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
Per pdf attached, use bottom drain method.
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Does anyone know a reason why 157 engines oil change must be done the "old" way instead of suction method via the top? If there's anyone changing their own oil in 157 AMG 5.5 TT engine via suction method? Last year I changed oil (Mobil1 0W40) via the suction method as I've done on all non-AMG MBs, will it cause an issue in 157 engine?
Edit: looks like at least some with 157 (W212) engine use extractor method: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...extractor.html
I know when I changed oil via extractor in my ML63, I took all 8.5L via the top. So again, does anyone know a reason MB "requires" 157 engines oil to be drained instead extracted?
Edit: looks like at least some with 157 (W212) engine use extractor method: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...extractor.html
I know when I changed oil via extractor in my ML63, I took all 8.5L via the top. So again, does anyone know a reason MB "requires" 157 engines oil to be drained instead extracted?
Last edited by threeMBs; Sep 10, 2020 at 11:24 AM.
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2016 Mercedes AMG GLE63s
Thanks for the response Chassis.
Between the two 0w-40 or 5w-40 is there a "preferred" choice? At this stage I think i might try to return the 5w40 formula M (although i was thinking of possibly running with it for summer and then switching to M1 0w40 in winter)
ThreeMBs I've been scratching my head on the same question.. But apparently the oil sump for these engines has a splitting partition in it (I managed to get onto a senior MB/AMG technician via a friend this morning to try get further clarity) and thus why they only say to drain from the bottom :/
I also asked him around using an engine flush pre the oil change (such as Liqui Moly) and he told me under no circumstances as apparently orings can shrink etc.. So i'm going to play it safe and do it from the bottom, no engine flush and Mobil 1 0W40. He did say that MB down here (Aus) has now been in contract & using Fuchs oil for the last 4-5 years instead of Mobil 1... I don't know much about Fuchs & possibly MB did it based on a more cost effective contract/arrangement with Fuchs, so I'm going to stick to Mobil 1.
Cheers
Between the two 0w-40 or 5w-40 is there a "preferred" choice? At this stage I think i might try to return the 5w40 formula M (although i was thinking of possibly running with it for summer and then switching to M1 0w40 in winter)
ThreeMBs I've been scratching my head on the same question.. But apparently the oil sump for these engines has a splitting partition in it (I managed to get onto a senior MB/AMG technician via a friend this morning to try get further clarity) and thus why they only say to drain from the bottom :/
I also asked him around using an engine flush pre the oil change (such as Liqui Moly) and he told me under no circumstances as apparently orings can shrink etc.. So i'm going to play it safe and do it from the bottom, no engine flush and Mobil 1 0W40. He did say that MB down here (Aus) has now been in contract & using Fuchs oil for the last 4-5 years instead of Mobil 1... I don't know much about Fuchs & possibly MB did it based on a more cost effective contract/arrangement with Fuchs, so I'm going to stick to Mobil 1.
Cheers
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From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Thanks for the response Chassis.
Between the two 0w-40 or 5w-40 is there a "preferred" choice? At this stage I think i might try to return the 5w40 formula M (although i was thinking of possibly running with it for summer and then switching to M1 0w40 in winter)
ThreeMBs I've been scratching my head on the same question.. But apparently the oil sump for these engines has a splitting partition in it (I managed to get onto a senior MB/AMG technician via a friend this morning to try get further clarity) and thus why they only say to drain from the bottom :/
I also asked him around using an engine flush pre the oil change (such as Liqui Moly) and he told me under no circumstances as apparently orings can shrink etc.. So i'm going to play it safe and do it from the bottom, no engine flush and Mobil 1 0W40. He did say that MB down here (Aus) has now been in contract & using Fuchs oil for the last 4-5 years instead of Mobil 1... I don't know much about Fuchs & possibly MB did it based on a more cost effective contract/arrangement with Fuchs, so I'm going to stick to Mobil 1.
Cheers
Between the two 0w-40 or 5w-40 is there a "preferred" choice? At this stage I think i might try to return the 5w40 formula M (although i was thinking of possibly running with it for summer and then switching to M1 0w40 in winter)
ThreeMBs I've been scratching my head on the same question.. But apparently the oil sump for these engines has a splitting partition in it (I managed to get onto a senior MB/AMG technician via a friend this morning to try get further clarity) and thus why they only say to drain from the bottom :/
I also asked him around using an engine flush pre the oil change (such as Liqui Moly) and he told me under no circumstances as apparently orings can shrink etc.. So i'm going to play it safe and do it from the bottom, no engine flush and Mobil 1 0W40. He did say that MB down here (Aus) has now been in contract & using Fuchs oil for the last 4-5 years instead of Mobil 1... I don't know much about Fuchs & possibly MB did it based on a more cost effective contract/arrangement with Fuchs, so I'm going to stick to Mobil 1.
Cheers
FWIW, my dealer drains the oil from my W166 M276 DE35 from the bottom, although WIS says to extract it from the top. So dealers tend to do what dealers want to do, if it doesn't create new problems. If an oil pan has a drain screw (plug) bottom drain is a legitimate option.
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ThreeMBs I've been scratching my head on the same question.. But apparently the oil sump for these engines has a splitting partition in it (I managed to get onto a senior MB/AMG technician via a friend this morning to try get further clarity) and thus why they only say to drain from the bottom :/
However, look at the actual pictures of 157 engine from US GLE63s - dipstick is at the back of the engine on driver's side by the firewall. Like I said before, I extracted all 8.5L when changed the oil via the top in my ML63.
For even more confusion, look where dipstick is depicted for 4.6L V8 TT:
https://f01.justanswer.com/eurotec/1...ter_change.pdf
Now take a look where it actually is:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...da1cbd964.jpeg
Last edited by threeMBs; Sep 12, 2020 at 03:57 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2020
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2016 Mercedes AMG GLE63s
hi gents,
so i managed to successfully change the oil & oil filter along with the air filters in the engine without any hiccups.. Fairly straight forward & I ended up doing it without jack/jack stands (lifted the car to the highest level using Airmatic) but i was a little worried - in the off chance the car decided to lower itself for whatever reason & outside of this, it was very hard to use the torque wrench in the confined space - so figured an extra few inches would solve that as well. Subsequently I have now purchased a set of Race ramps (https://www.rampchamp.com.au/product...l-up-ramp-pair) these ones in particular due to the 285s & 3t jack stands to be extra safe... In doing so I didn't really think about the ramp angle possibly leaving some oil at the back of the sump. As the oil plug is at the front of the sump, would it simply be a matter of using the ramps on the rear wheels so the angle forces the oil towards the plug? Or no matter what there will be old oil left over because the car is not completely flat? In saying this, i probably cant even use the ramps on the rears because the tyres are way too fat
I don't know if i am looking into it too much, but i figure if i am going to change the oil, i really don't want to leave too much old oil behind (i realise there will still be a small amount in all the engine crevices etc) so i just don't know if it something i need to worry about, or whether i should return the race ramps and just go for a good jack and be done with it?
ThreeMB's - you are spot on re the dipstick location too, it is definitely at the back right corner of my engine, so the manual/photos i was looking at don't match up to my engine but i didn't really pay attention to it..
Appreciate any guidance on the above!
cheers
so i managed to successfully change the oil & oil filter along with the air filters in the engine without any hiccups.. Fairly straight forward & I ended up doing it without jack/jack stands (lifted the car to the highest level using Airmatic) but i was a little worried - in the off chance the car decided to lower itself for whatever reason & outside of this, it was very hard to use the torque wrench in the confined space - so figured an extra few inches would solve that as well. Subsequently I have now purchased a set of Race ramps (https://www.rampchamp.com.au/product...l-up-ramp-pair) these ones in particular due to the 285s & 3t jack stands to be extra safe... In doing so I didn't really think about the ramp angle possibly leaving some oil at the back of the sump. As the oil plug is at the front of the sump, would it simply be a matter of using the ramps on the rear wheels so the angle forces the oil towards the plug? Or no matter what there will be old oil left over because the car is not completely flat? In saying this, i probably cant even use the ramps on the rears because the tyres are way too fat
I don't know if i am looking into it too much, but i figure if i am going to change the oil, i really don't want to leave too much old oil behind (i realise there will still be a small amount in all the engine crevices etc) so i just don't know if it something i need to worry about, or whether i should return the race ramps and just go for a good jack and be done with it?
ThreeMB's - you are spot on re the dipstick location too, it is definitely at the back right corner of my engine, so the manual/photos i was looking at don't match up to my engine but i didn't really pay attention to it..
Appreciate any guidance on the above!
cheers
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Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 14,679
Likes: 4,579
From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Best practice is to change fluids (any fluid) while the vehicle is level. I wouldn't worry about a few mls of oil remaining behind. Change the oil early next time, if it's bothering you.
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