My glk has acquired the tailgate problem...opens a couple of inches then closes... using either the key fob or the door switch.

Has anyone had a definitive fix for this? I think I read on another forum that they have to replace the motor. I'd like to go to the dealer armed with some info.

Also, am I correct in assuming this is covered under our 2 yr warranty?

Thanks

 

of course it's covered!! the glk just came out in february. i had mine replaced within the first 30 days of owning,...............unfortunately?

 

Did they just adjust something (if so, what exactly) or did they replace a part?

 

I just had the motor replaced last week. Pulled into the service shop to have it checked out. I explained what was going on, the Service Advisor hit the key fob button...door opened a couple inches and stopped....he said "like that huh. I'll have the tech look at it." An hour later, they call and say the new motor has been ordered, and they'd install it when it comes in.

 

the first time they re-programmed it, the second was an adjustment of the strikers, and the third was a motor replacement. all in 30 days!! i was pissed!!

 

Thanks, great info. I'm going to call ahead to make sure they have another motor available before I take it in.

 

I had the motor replaced yesterday, hopefully this is it.

 

I am curious to know if the motors they are replacing the broken units with are from the same bad batch of original pieces. I would hate have the problem happen over and over.

 

Just how prevalent is this problem? I ran into a neighbor who purchased around the same time I did, February '09, and he too is having this problem.

Is this just isolated to early production models or is it still occurring? It took several months of use before it started to happen in my case.

Hopefully, it will not just be a matter of time before the new motor starts acting up!

 

My also happen after a few months of use. Seems like it is a known problem to MB. Hints from my service report '"repair as per tips document #GI72.2-P-046034--RE and I head liner--replace tail gate motor".

 

My version of the problem (which started yesterday) is that previously I needed to press the key fob tailgate release for a two-count after which time the tailgate would open, where as now I need to keep the release button pressed during the entire time that the tailgate is opening, and if I release the button then it stops opening. It closes fine (press button for a two-count) but opening the hatch now has this strange hitch. Oddly peculiar, as Spongebob would say.

 

The challenge I encounter is simply with the external handle, not the keyfob. Normally, pulling the handle once lightly and letting it go, sends the hatch into auto open mode, and a firm pull allows you to open the car manually. As all my old cars never had an auto open, i am still using the old fashioned method (creature of habi).

My issue is, the handle action gets confused sometimes and as I expect to manually open the hatch, it fights me back as it opens at its own pace. And now that it feels my friction, it thinks there may be an obstruction so it stops opening. At this point I need to use my keyfob to close it and then start over.

I wondered if the sensors assumed my legs were obsticals, so i played a form of twister as I opened, but still got a 50/50 chance of armwrestling with my boot. Very frustrating sometimes, especially when it pulls me off balance and I headbutt my own car. And thats without booze....

Anyone else experienced or solutioned this issue (the hatch not the headbutting)?

 

Sorry for wasting white space. Just read some other similar posts in another thread and it seems all roads lead to the Dealer.

Just wanted to be certain it was the car and not me. But the masses seem convinced that our rear boot moter was spawned from "Christine", so I'll go beat up my dealer for a correction or an exorcism.

 

This Mercedes bulletin number which my dealer referred to may help. My GLK developed the tailgate problem gradually - occasionally opening a couple of inches then closing. Eventually it was happening often and finally every time. Dealer checked it and reprogrammed but unsuccessfully. According to the work order they finally acted "as per tips document G172.20-P-046034" and replaced the tailgate drive unit. So far so good, it's working fine. Covered by warranty of course.

 

From my understanding of the automatic liftgate, you aren't supposed to really have to fight it at all. No kind of tugging or pulling is required for me to open mine, I just simply touch the button once and let go when I do it by hand and not the remote. It will auto rise by itself, as once the handle button has been pressed it goes into auto open. I believe forcing it in any way may be damaging to the motor.

When I picked my car up I asked my sales guy if he heard of the problem and he said he had but none of them were in the cars he sold because he had instructed new owners to never fight with the gate, just let it do it's thing.

I'm all super paranoid though as everyone that sees my car I explicitly tell them to not touch the lift gate; I'd rather not take the chance. It kind of pains me when people slam my doors so I wouldn't expect most people to understand brute force isn't necessary. So far my gate has been working a-ok but I've only had the car for a week and I don't drive much on weekdays to be honest.

I'm also curious if anyone has been programming the tail gate to limit how far it opens. If you press and hold the red close button next to the lock one and it beeps once it will set the new threshold for the gate opening (as some people might have lower clearances and do not wish to have the gate open to it's full extent). Maybe that has something to do with it? The computer confusing thresholds; if the motor doesn't sound strained when it is trying to open/close during problematic times.

 

I set my tail gate to stop at a pre-determined height. So far it has never failed to stop in the position that I set it for. Works like a charm.

 

Well, I told my dealer that I heard there was a Service Bulletin recommending to replace the motor. He said he would look into it, but it may just need a "reprograming"
24hrs later they called saying the motor was going to be replaced.
Lets hope this is the end of it

 

haven't got any problems with the gate yet...but i simply do not trust them...as i program machines too...there must be a ghost...in the program...

 

I never had this problem. Dealership told me that it was encountered on the first batch of vehicles coming in to North America.

 

I wish there was a way to restrict the motion on a NON powered hatch. There are two problems with the hatch.
1- My wife is too short (5'0") to reach it to pull it down. I had to rig a piece of rope .....how classy.....or I had to get rid if the car....she was really pissed on her first trip to the Grocery Store.... this is going to continue to cause trouble I fear....
2- If I am not careful the hatch can hit the garage door........No just letting it go..........

 

you're right...some folks keep slamm'in, when these doors are really in need of TLC. Unlike some of the imports, domestics you really gotta slam to close. Hopefully, I will find out sooner than later.

 

It opens 6 inches and then closes. Going in for service on Dec 1st. I'll let you know how it was resolved....

 

I have a 2010 with 400 miles on it. The day i brought it home it malfunctioned. When the gate is open and I push the red button to close, the gate closes then re-opens as soon as it touches down! A harsh clicking noise is heard when the gate BEGINS to close......not as it touches the latch in the closed position. Anyone have any thoughts?