kyoshiro

artistic beading with photoshop express!
I'll provide some posts on some detailing products i've been using and durability for you guys later on too if you guys want to detail your own GLK or winter prep before snow hits!

NYCGLK

I do it every 2-3 months, with just "NuFinish once a year wax"

kyoshiro

thats from like a week after I picked it up from dealership with 2 coats of Autoglym HD Wax
I still need to find a time to take pics of it with the current wax+sealant setup of about 5 layers. but its DEEP! I've actually already washed my GLK 5-6 times already and even partially polished the B Pillars and sealed em.

NYCGLK

Question: does new MB's paint really need all this waxing? It's pretty shiny as it is. And what's the point of the sealant with new ceramic nano coat?

My pic above is after winter, all I did was wash and a one coat.

kyoshiro

MB Paint is indeed one of the hardest out there especially with the ceramic mix but its not resistant against somethings. The paint was especially hardened for automatic carwashes we have in north america especially.
One of the layers I do apply are glazes which deepens the gloss of the paint (i use wetglaze 2.0 but prob gonna try out Chemical guys ezcreme, these are color specific)
Wax (carnuba based) gives your paint a warmer feel to it and makes the paint pop.
Artificial Sealants and Petroleum based wax (which are really sealants) gives a more durable layer to protect the paint and are more gloss based than warmer paint based.
You may still ask why?
What these help protect your clearcoat from salt/contaminates/brakedust/bird poo/etc . These things overtime eat into the paint :S
So really more coats is just to get the "effect" out and why have 2 coats at least is cuz at 3rd coat, the amount that sticks gets less n less, first 2 coats gets about 300nm or smfin, i need to look at the chart again.

kyoshiro

Oh dont forget water beading is win, and sealants are more dust phobic and will not leave the water marks and dust marks from heavy water
watermarks do eat into clear coat aswell.

MBRedux

When modern super-hard clear coats develop spider marks and scratches, they are more difficult to repair because the paint is not very malleable, and thus are not very easy to rub out like in the old days when softer paints were used.

On darker colors, even though they are all clear-coated with MB’s nano-clear, these imperfections are even more noticeable. So the more you wax your car, the better the chances are for it to develop these imperfections due to all the rubbing and buffing, even with micro-fiber towels. So I would try and keep detailing to a minimum, say 3-4x a year.

Another interesting fact, depending on the polish/wax you are using, (a cleaner wax let’s say), you could, over time, actually dull the finish if done too often. Other waxes, depending on the type used in the formulation, do build-up on the surface and can create a dull appearance if not properly removed from the paint once in awhile. If properly removed and a new layer is applied, this new *virgin* layer will look much better.

A great product we use in our shop is 3M Ultrafina. However it isn’t cheap, not available in most places, and must be applied with a special 3M Blue Ultrafina applicator.

NYCGLK

this is what I was thinking but didn't want to point out...I see so many clean black/dark cars with those micro scratches...

For that reason, I wash my car every month or 2 (not more than that), only hand wash with lots of water, use squegee instead of towel to dry it, and waxing only after the wash 4-5 times per year.

kyoshiro

Good point MBRedux
I do however work on different parts of the car every time (since I cant get everything done in 1 go) and when thats all done, I dont strip the the LSP until they wear off or when I want to apply a new one (which is not that often)
I dont believe maintenance washes will create imperfections tho even if I wash often. They don't strip LSP (I have a few different car shampoos for dif purposes) and patting dry should also alleviate the chances of imperfections?
Micro scratches are common if you have dirt in your wash pad/sponge and Squege can potentially be VERY dangerous on your paint as if it drags dirt, you'll be dragging it across.
Also use the right mixture of carwash:water because the carwash lubricates and is what lifts the dirt. You could potentially drag the dirt as well here.
Use a good car wash, rinse, sud it up then apply sud all over with a microfiber pad/a clean good sponge/towel, then rinse off. Then get a microfiber weave to pat dry.
I grab a torch to go through every part of my paint =p
Nufinish One year wax has possible abrasives on the side note as with most all-in-ones, I recommend some Collinite 845 i believe it was for some ultra durable detergent proof wax that can last all year round lol

Anyhow MBRedux, I got Menzerna 106FF and SIP to save the day for spider webs instead of 3M, dont think I know any sites that carry 3M polishes over in NA (not many sites have reasonable shipping fees to Canada too). I still need to look into grabbing a paint meter so I know how much I can work with every year on my cars. My Mazda is a victim of Cleaner waxes because back then I was not as detailing crazy but 805RD saved it along with some wet sanding to chips

NYCGLK

any thoughts on taking car to pro-detailers? is 150-250 worth it once every 2-3 years? Perhaps after winter?

kyoshiro

Yes especially when if time is an issue, and SUVs prob charge more. You probably should look into the 1 step polish packages, it'll get most of the scratches/imperfections out that'll occur from daily usage.
Detailers would winter prep your car probably with heavy duty waxes or sealants on the rims and body if you bring it in before winter.
After winter, they'll probably use a wax that'll probably last 3-6 months instead. But this is catered towards making your car paint shine/gloss/glow.
You would also get the inner parts of your rim cleaned (useful if you dont change to winter tires or bother cleaning the inside) and door jambs all cleaned up and possibly sealed depending on detailer (i seal mine with sealants).
They should also clean and protect the engine bay with some sort of rubber plastic care.
Interior is extra usually but they'll probably give you a free vacuum inside.
It will bring your car back to its initial glory nonetheless. I can check the detailing forum if theres any guys in NYC thats recommended if you want.
150-200 may actually be on the low side on the other hand. 350~ for no paint correction, 650~ for 1 step polish is what one of the guy i know charges but thats canada, possibly different price down in the states.
650 for every 3 years is probably worth it if you do get a lot of scratches
350, you're looking at every 2 years just to mainly get the engine bay/jambs/etc clean and have your old lsp residue stripped off. You technically could go every year and tell em to put on collinites which will last for at least a year and get it cleaned up after every winter.
You would only need to light wash at home for the whole year

NYCGLK

ha no way i'm paying more to maintain the paint than the actual car. I don't do daily commute in the car and it's garaged when not used, so car stays in pretty good shape with just a wash and a coat of wax.

Would hate to be putting all this money and get keyed/dented/scratched by some ahole.

MBRedux

Sometimes its best to just leave it dirty, (say during the cold winter months) rather than attempt to remove it incorrectly.

MBRedux

On a different note. I'm wondering if those LED's and panels in the front bumper would fit our 2010 GLK without modification?

kyoshiro

I dont think the bumper's cut outs change and its only the led housing and the plastic around it change, so technically you should be able to retrofit em in but you'll prob have to look @ voltage change if the foglights uses dif voltage and the possibility of incompat plug as the LEDs prob dont use the same plug as light bulbs. I do think Brabus kit or Lorinser aftermarket body kit has a front bumper with LEDs so wiring shouldnt be too out of hand.

MBRedux

Thanks, I'll look into it.

kyoshiro

oh MBRedux, you know anything about filling minor scratches on glass from your experience @ the shop?
My panoramic roof seems to have 3 deepish scratches that may of came from highway rocks, i dont really know, they look rather long to be highway rocks, but i do have 1 dent on the first piece of glass where it meets the windshield from just today (saw a rock flying into me from a Toyota truck frame SUV)

MBRedux

Kyo, glass is a very hard product to begin with and even harder to repair. Most times we simply just replace the glass rather than try to polish off deep scratches. We have had some luck with GT (Glass Technology) Products in Colorado. You may wish to contact them or go to your nearest windshield shop.

http://www.gtglass.com/glass-scratch...cratch-removal

MilesBFree

The voltage will be the same since that is what is supplied (i.e.- the potential). But it is possible there is a small transformer for the LEDs so good suggestion to see if there is one needed.

The amp draw should be the same or less, as LEDs are more efficient than the stock bulbs. Even though there are more LEDs, it should still be less. But that is a good question to validate that.

Most of the electrical work I have done on cars lately makes me think the connectors have been pretty well standardized. We have come a long way from bullet connectors I would think since this is an MB part swapped out for an MB part, that the connectors would be the same.

NYCGLK

^^The only problem is re-wiring/re-programming DRLs from xenons to fogs.

SLfanDC

Do you mean that you have a detailing shop? If so, where is it located? I've been looking for a good place.

kyoshiro

i can ask around over at the detailing forums for someone around your area if ya wants. Just gimme the postal code or smfin.

SLfanDC

Thanks. I am in the Bethesda, Maryland area (20817)