What kind of wax does everyone use? i am thinking of getting some swissvax this spring -- their wax ranges from $60 to $1000 per bottle! worth it?

 

I like Rejex

 

I use Menzerna Polymer as a sealant, and then top off with Swissvax Saphir. Excellent combination, brilliant shine and durability.

 

Swissvax Mirage (formerly Saphir) only - since 2005, on three cars.

However do I prefer the smell of the latter, coconut and avocado. Even the MB dealership was taken by it.



Production of which is by the Swiss company Swissvax AG, in facilities located in Fällanden, Switzerland.

Certainly!

Product description: http://www.swissvax.ca/merchant.mvc?...ory_Code=WAXES
Canadian Distributer, whom I think you know of: http://www.swissvax.ca

Actually prices ranges - to $1815 - the Divine - per bottle

 

That's an interesting approach, as Swissvax is recommending its Cleaner Fluid as paint preserving solution to be applied before application of the waxes. Given you have used it, what is the difference from using the Menzerna Polymer?

 

 

I guess to each his own. Just keep in mind that Carnauba wax doesn't really give the best *gloss* on darker colors. It leaves a film on top of the paint that builds up over time, and may even dull the paint over a few years of use. When I use it, I use a wax stripper every spring and start over. It also doesn't weather very well and needs to be applied more often than other formulations.

NuFinish has some good stuff in it as well. Works great on older oxidized finishes.

Dark colors and black cars are real hard to wax. Actually wax on black is no longer the best answer. With the advent of Acrylic paints wax has become an obsolete choice to use on modern automotive paint. An acrylic paint conditioner is without doubt the absolute best choice for not only black but all automotive acrylic paints. Why? There are numerous differences between common wax and a modern acrylic paint conditioner.
Just as there are differences between enamel and acrylic paints. Acrylic paint has a shine achieved by a baking process that leaves a glass like shine on it. The shine is not so much within the paint as on the surface of the paint. Beneath that surface a dull interior. Unlike enamel wax of the past where the shine could be "buffed out" An acrylic painted surface needs to be preserved. Polishing may over time destroy a dark finish. (Spider swirls create a place for dirt and oxidizing) Wax over time will cover, dull, yellow, scratch, and swirl up a finish. No other color shows the ill effects of outdated wax on acrylic paint better than black. The normal application and buffing required of wax damages the finish on modern acrylic paint. (Our Mercedes uses a new Nano clear Acrylic Lacquer top coat). Black will show every defect and every piece of wax residue left on your car. Acrylic paint conditioners are a rust resistant non abrasive pure liquid formula that enhances the natural color and shine of the paint while protecting it from natural oxidation. They usually can be applied in about 10 minutes and it lasts over a month. They leave a mirror like shine especially on dark reflective paints. There is nothing on the market that works better on black automotive acrylic paints than an acrylic paint conditioner. Ask the best shops, it's a fact.

You'll notice that before the paint is conditioned it looks dull from too much waxy build-up. But after the wax is removed and the *conditioner" is applied, it's almost like new, and the feel is like nothing you ever felt.

 

Polish - Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish)
Sealant - Chemical Guys Jetseal 109
Wax - Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax or Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax

 

I have like a dozen+ different sealants and waxes lol
I have a tub of Swissvax Concorso and it smells great (though the weather hasnt been cooperating and we're still in winter months) so I havent applied it yet
I also have a tub of Swissvax Shield which is really a sealant and it also smells awesome but I just received it last week to try.
My current GLK has 2 layers of 1z HartGlanz (sealant) and its quite nice actually. I used Zymol HD Cleanser before I applied it and the results were awesome. I have a picture of it if you want to see. I am also using 2 layers of OPT Opti-Seal on the roof, rims, and all glass except windshield. Easy application, not very durable on the rims tho, too iron heavy

In terms of stuff I also have and tried in the past

Wax:
Dodo Juice Austinitious - Its quite easy application but its a soft wax and I wasn't too convinced by it (I also have Purple Haze and Rainforest but havent used em)
RaceGlaze 55 - Applied 1 layer of it and it had some pretty nice beading properties and looked deep

Sealant
Bilt Hamber Autobalm - Used it on rims, was really durable and actually fended off quite a bit of brake dust
Menzerna Powerlock - I always use this as an undercoat before I apply waxes, love the ease of application
Blackfire All Metal Sealant - I use it on the chrome trims, works quite well in keeping the trims nice n shiny and not so dirty
Autoglym HD Wax- my first tub of sealant (or petroleum based wax) and its cheap for its durability/gloss. Easy applications, totally recommended at like 20 bucks a box at walmart (clearance) else 50~60 and comes with 2 applicators
Werkstat All in one - I use it as a cleaner and filler before I apply anything but its also good by itself as a sealant. Quite good as a base layer especially at taking care of microscratches.

Wheel Sealant wise i have a SV Autobahn that I have yet to try but I have used Poorboy's wheel sealant and it was easy to apply and smelled like strawberries but was real messy lol.

I also have like a few spray waxes that I have yet to try like the Prima Hydro Spray Wax

But yeah I have a whole arsenal of detailing goods =p

I should get some CG Jetseal 109 to try out for my door jambs, Powerlock didnt last too long there and maybe buy a CG Celeste or Enzyme ohhhh nuba

(I started with turtlewax on my mazda but never again!)

And for ordering Canada
go to http://autoobsessed.com for Swissvax as thats the official canadian retailer/distributor, swissvax.ca will ship from there. I also have Swissvax Insignis Version 2 coming in from Switzerland derived made for Norway's scandicshine (yes its nearly 400 bucks a tub lol)

 

Asking Swissvax one will find:

- Prior to application of wax, “Cleaner Fluid has to be applied before the first Wax application and easily removes swirl marks, light scratches, tar spots and tree sap as well as old wax and other residues”.
- Wax that “eliminates the chalky surface appearance of darker cars”.
- "Non-resistant to soda lye and salt water", i.e. harsh conditions.
- Wax for synthetic resin paints.
- Mirage, successor to Swissvax' famous Saphir wax, “is a premium wax for all paintwork types including clearcoats, ceramicoats (so-called nano paints) and lacquers”.


And they claim: “Our geographical and meteorological situation in Switzerland with its proximity to the famous unrestricted German Autobahn and 4 intensive seasons from paintwork-boiling hot summers to freezing cold winters with extensive use of road-salt offers us the best possible natural development and testing ground a company in our marketplace can look for.”


So I think it is a good “shop”.

 

Autobahn as well smells like strawberries, easy to apply (I prefer to have the wheels prepared with Cleaner Fluid first) and is not messy.

 

There's nothing wrong with Swissvax. In fact they sponsor one of our clients; their reps come by every once in awhile. I even use their products on a few of our client's cars. If you read what I said, you'll see that they are saying the same thing I suggested in my first post. Clean the old wax off before applying more. However, a "sealer" or "cleaner", even "clay treatments" cannot hold a candle to "Acrylic Conditioners" for superior gloss, conditioning and protection. But I'll admit that even with these new type of paint treatment products, a paint cleaning is still needed every now and then before using a *conditioner* in place of old fashioned waxes.

 

Those acrylic conditioners, they be silica based or polymers bases
I'm still waiting to buy the new flex rotary polisher before I buy some opti coat and haven't had time to apply my cquartz cuz of weather

 

I also use Rejex (about 2 applications a year)






Not too good on the wheels, so I use Armor All.

 

Rejex is a great sealant on rims as well so you don't really need a separate product especially when our rims are painted and clearcoated opposed to alumunium

 

sorry, i am a little bit confused on the terminology here -- what are polishes and sealants? i thought there was just wax, lol...and i just found out about claybar yesterday.

what's the correct steps for me to do a total detail in spring? i have some wax on it from last year, and also a few scratches i would like to deal with...can someone help with the correct procedure and what types of products i would need? thanks.

 

Sealant is Synthetic Wax
Wax is usually related to wax with Carnuba (there are also petroleum based wax which should really be a sealant)
Paintwork:
First wash down with Dawn dish soap or a citrus based shampoo
2nd Clay bar down contaminants
3rd alcohol+water mixture wipe down
4th hit up the polisher and use pads/polish according to scratches
5th Paint cleaner to get the last bits
6th apply your wax

http://detailingbliss.com is a good forum to get you started (lots of detailers there)
and depending on where you are, there are some retailers I recommend to get your products from my experience.
Where you located steve?

 

Meguiars Cleaner Wax/205 depends on condition of paint, then #9 polish.

Menzerna Powerlock Sealant provides a very durable high-gloss coat. You can just go with a sealant. I like to top off with Swissvax Saphir.

For wheels, I use Swissvax wheel wax, excellent stuff and reduces brake dust sticking to the rims greatly.

For tires, I use Swissvax Pneu. I find that is lasts much longer, does not sling, and gives tires a "natural" sheen not the plastic shiny look others do.

Basically, I use the clay, cleaner, polish, sealant, and wax approach. I may try cleaning fluid from Swissvax this spring, we shall see.

 

Nice photos, You could have gotten some Free VaporWax if you had did a before and after video video. There was a promotion going on a year or so ago. Send your before and after pictures in and ask for a discount on your next order, I did and got a $15.00 discount on my next 4oz order of APC.
You are right about the feel, your fingers glide across the paint and the shine is flawless.
No buff marks no smears and no swirl at all. I make good money with it.

 

i use powerlock and then some collinite 476s as I don't have the time to wax often.
then aquapel the glass

 

I used Zaino on my silver SL and was very pleased with the results. The car felt like glass.

I've been a bit intimidated by my black car- never had black before- so really appreciate all of the tips.

Isn't Nufinish technically a sealant? I was in a parking lot a few years ago and saw the cleanest/shiniest Chevrolet I've ever seen and the owner told me that he uses Nufinish. I use it on my Porsche with great results, but the white paint is more forgiving than black.

 

I use Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It's very durable and leaves a great shine assuming the finish is prepped properly. Clay, swirl remover, glaze etc.. I have found that the more time spent on prepping the finish the better the shine.

See attached pics of my black CTS-V and the ML after applying the 845. Not a bad refection for a silver finish.

 

i have 3 bottles of that and it is easy to put and remove.

 

Yeah I really like this stuff, it is easy to put on and take off if you put it on thin.

If you apply it too heavy I promise you will curse trying to take it off.

 

What does nufinish have to do with those 3 pics taken from chemical guys website? The chemical guys pics that you are using is an example of using their nano polish. And nufinish is trash. I use chemical guys 5050, zymol glasur, swissvax concourso, and have on order swissvax insignis v3.

Your post makes no sense whatsoever. To get the best results you wash, use a wax stripper, clay, polish, and wax. If you want to add in a glaze before waxing thats an option. I have no idea what you're talking about with this conditioner bs. I am hardcore when it comes to detailing my cars and spend a lot of time on detailing message boards and have never read anything close to what you posted. Sorry, but saying nufinish is good and talking about conditioners is a joke. With black or any other color, the key is to machine polish your car if necessary before waxing. Not "conditioning".

Here's the link to the chemical guys page that shows that you stole their pic.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Paint_Co...gap_108_16.htm