GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

2011 GLK LED DRL Installation

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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #1  
Ben Conner's Avatar
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Mercedes GLK 350
2011 GLK LED DRL Installation

Does anyone have a write up on how to remove the stock assembly? I i can remove the fog light housing just fine, I just can't figure out how to remove the surrounding black grill piece. Any help is appreciated.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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Mercedes GLK 350
No one?
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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From: Loen, Norway
2009 GLK 220 cdi
You will probably have to take down the whole bumper, I saw few pictures on internet from seller of these DRL where they were mounting these by this way...
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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From: CANADA eh!
Very very slow
I've read somewhere that you'll have to remove the wheel well to access to the fog light's housing.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 08:20 PM
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Mercedes GLK 350
Took all day, but I got it all figured out and wired. Looks so much better. I may try and do a write up while its fresh in my mind if there is any interest.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Mercedes GLK 350
I got my kit from IJDMToy.com

Tools needed:

8 mm socket
10mm socket
1/4 and 1/2 drives with an extension or two for each
Torque Wrench for the wheels studs
Proper sized socket for wheels studs (Forgot size)
Flat head screw driver
Phillips head srew driver
Needle nose pliers
Wire stripper
Electrical tape

Start by removing front wheels.

Start removing the fender liner that is held in with push pin plastic rivets. Pry the center out with a flat head and remove it with the pliers. Sometime the center will come out completely, its not a big deal.

Get under the front and remove the numerous 8 mm bolts that hold the undercarriage cover on. There is a font section and a rear section. The front section is made of plastic, the rear section is made of metal I believe. I left the two rear bolts in the metal portion and just let it hand.

Continue removing the fender liner. There will be nuts inside the fender, I think they are 10mm that need to be removed. Once removed, you will see that the liner just hangs on the exposed studs. With a littler effort and bending, the liner is removed.

Disconnect the fog lights from the harness. I went ahead and removed the fog light assembly as well.

There is a brace that is near the fog light assembly that has a 10mm bolt (could be 8mm) with the head facing towards the rear of the car. Remove this bolt on each side. It connects the bumper to the frame.

Underneath near the center front, there is a small wire that leads to a sensor that sits in front of the radiator. Unplug this sensor.

Pop the hood, and remove the plastic/rubber shroud that is above each headlight. There should be two pieces of plastic that you have to twist a 1/4 turn to pull these out along with a tab that needs to be depressed. It's pretty obvious how to remove these.

There is a center plastic piece that is almost directly over the radiator that needs to be removed as well. Using a flat head screw driver, disconnect both air intake hoses on the right and left side. Un-clip the rubber hose that is routed around the top.

Once this piece is removed, you will see a total of 8 bolts. Four that are in a line up top and four that are kinda behind the grill. Remove all 8 bolts.

Lastly, there are 4 bolts, two on each side that hold the bumper to the fenders. They are located right where the body pieces meet on their respective sides. Remove these bolts.

In order to remove the bumper, you need to pull out and down, but it should come off pretty easily. I had a couple of towels spread out so I could set the bumper face down without scratching it.

In order to remove the black plastic fog light grills, you have to take off the black plastic liner that is attached to the bumper. This is a two piece liner. This can be a little bit of a pain, just start pulling from one side and release each clip as you go. The bottom liner comes off pretty easy. Its pretty self explanatory once you see it.

Once the bottom liner is removed, you can start to work on the upper liner. All you really need to do is pop the lower metal rivet on each side. This is a pain in the *** to do. Be careful not to damage the rivet as you need it to go back into place once finished.

Once that is free, replace each black grill and start putting the liner back together. I just went back along the places it connects with a large wrench banging it back into place so it would snap in. Put the bumper back onto the car and be sure to have each side slide into its proper place.

*Note - I took the led light assembly out of the plastic piece and put it back on once the bumper was secure. It just made life easier.

Once you have the bumper back on, go ahead and plug your resistors into the stock harness and run your left LED hardness to the right side of the car. Plug both right and left harnesses into the DRL module.

Unplug the right side headlight harness. Pull back the black looming/electrical tape and expose a good section of the wires.

From what I found online, the Brown was the ground, White was the High Beam, and Yellow was the low beam. These three wires are a much larger wire than the others in the harness. I had to guess which one ran the DRL Lights in the headlight. There are a few small wires in the harness is well. It wasn't these. There is one wire that is larger than the small ones, but smaller than the larger ones. I can't remember the color, but you can tap into this wire for your power. For your ground, you will see a nut on a stud that is coming off the inside fender. I used this for my ground. Ground your wire, plug the harness in, and test the lights.

If everything works, start tidying up the wires by wrapping in electrical tape and ziptying things in place. Remember the resistors get very hot, so you need to mount them somewhere on the frame preferably so they don't burn anything. Hide the DRL Module somewhere that is safe from getting drenched with water. I put mine underneath the bumper frame.

Reverse your order and put everything back on the way it came off, and you are done.

It took me about 6 hours, however there was a lot of stopping and thinking, pulling, etc, trying to figure out what to do. If I did it again, I could probably do it in 3 hours.

Hope this helps someone, feel free to PM with any questions.

Last edited by Ben Conner; Nov 10, 2014 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe; 2011 GLK 350 w/ Premium 1, Multimedia & Sport Appearance; I LOVE IT!
Pictures..?
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:16 PM
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Mercedes GLK 350
Here are a few from yesterday. Quality isn't great.
Attached Thumbnails 2011 GLK LED DRL Installation-mb2.jpg   2011 GLK LED DRL Installation-mb1.jpg   2011 GLK LED DRL Installation-mb3.jpg  
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Nice write-up, and thanks for the link...

Last edited by rmfnla; Nov 12, 2014 at 01:46 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 04:17 AM
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'10 GLK350 4matic/ '05 BMW e46/'20 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Looks great. You mentioned a DRL module, so do they run all the time now or only when you activate the fog lights? Also, how much for the kit?
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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Mercedes GLK 350
Originally Posted by skr
Looks great. You mentioned a DRL module, so do they run all the time now or only when you activate the fog lights? Also, how much for the kit?
Thanks guys. They are on as long as your parking lights are on.

$169.99, there are coupon codes online that will save you between 10-20% if you look.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Mercedes-X2...s-p/70-753.htm
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 08:27 AM
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2010 glk 350
Originally Posted by Ben Conner
Thanks guys. They are on as long as your parking lights are on.

$169.99, there are coupon codes online that will save you between 10-20% if you look.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Mercedes-X2...s-p/70-753.htm
I have a 2010 glk and right now my fogs don't come on until I turn the knob to fog and I think pull out one notch. Yours comes on when the parking lights come on? So do they automatically come on when the headlights turn on? Is there a way to wire them to be true DRL turning on automatically as they would in the newer GLK's? Thanks for the nice write up!! Also any issue with throwing error codes?
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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Mercedes GLK 350
Originally Posted by toyo1448
I have a 2010 glk and right now my fogs don't come on until I turn the knob to fog and I think pull out one notch. Yours comes on when the parking lights come on? So do they automatically come on when the headlights turn on? Is there a way to wire them to be true DRL turning on automatically as they would in the newer GLK's? Thanks for the nice write up!! Also any issue with throwing error codes?
I had to manually turn the fog lights on when they were installed with the switch that was on a panel to the bottom left of the steering column.

My LED's are tapped into the power source of the stock DRL's or parking lights, whatever you want to call them. So they work just like the newer GLKs. No issue with codes as the product I purchased had resistors included that fools the computer to think the fog lights are still there. Happy to help!
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 09:33 PM
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glk350
Running lights

Glad I read your post about having to remove the bumper in order to install these lights! Think I will pass. Thank You
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 03:54 AM
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Any one have current info if this can be down without removing bumper/wheels and everything else..no way it can be done just from the front? What if one just needed to change the bulbs? cant be that cumbersome..?
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 04:17 AM
  #16  
Marek_Norway's Avatar
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2009 GLK 220 cdi
Originally Posted by 150shot
Any one have current info if this can be down without removing bumper/wheels and everything else..no way it can be done just from the front? What if one just needed to change the bulbs? cant be that cumbersome..?
For changing bulb in fog light, you need to remove fender liner...so you can try this as first step and you will see if there is enough space for changing the whole assembly of fog light...
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 04:37 AM
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Do they dim down at night? That is the law here. You cant run these at full strenght at night here. I will install OEMs on my build thread but dont know if the dimming will work when done busure will try.
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