2011 GLK LED DRL Installation
Tools needed:
8 mm socket
10mm socket
1/4 and 1/2 drives with an extension or two for each
Torque Wrench for the wheels studs
Proper sized socket for wheels studs (Forgot size)
Flat head screw driver
Phillips head srew driver
Needle nose pliers
Wire stripper
Electrical tape
Start by removing front wheels.
Start removing the fender liner that is held in with push pin plastic rivets. Pry the center out with a flat head and remove it with the pliers. Sometime the center will come out completely, its not a big deal.
Get under the front and remove the numerous 8 mm bolts that hold the undercarriage cover on. There is a font section and a rear section. The front section is made of plastic, the rear section is made of metal I believe. I left the two rear bolts in the metal portion and just let it hand.
Continue removing the fender liner. There will be nuts inside the fender, I think they are 10mm that need to be removed. Once removed, you will see that the liner just hangs on the exposed studs. With a littler effort and bending, the liner is removed.
Disconnect the fog lights from the harness. I went ahead and removed the fog light assembly as well.
There is a brace that is near the fog light assembly that has a 10mm bolt (could be 8mm) with the head facing towards the rear of the car. Remove this bolt on each side. It connects the bumper to the frame.
Underneath near the center front, there is a small wire that leads to a sensor that sits in front of the radiator. Unplug this sensor.
Pop the hood, and remove the plastic/rubber shroud that is above each headlight. There should be two pieces of plastic that you have to twist a 1/4 turn to pull these out along with a tab that needs to be depressed. It's pretty obvious how to remove these.
There is a center plastic piece that is almost directly over the radiator that needs to be removed as well. Using a flat head screw driver, disconnect both air intake hoses on the right and left side. Un-clip the rubber hose that is routed around the top.
Once this piece is removed, you will see a total of 8 bolts. Four that are in a line up top and four that are kinda behind the grill. Remove all 8 bolts.
Lastly, there are 4 bolts, two on each side that hold the bumper to the fenders. They are located right where the body pieces meet on their respective sides. Remove these bolts.
In order to remove the bumper, you need to pull out and down, but it should come off pretty easily. I had a couple of towels spread out so I could set the bumper face down without scratching it.
In order to remove the black plastic fog light grills, you have to take off the black plastic liner that is attached to the bumper. This is a two piece liner. This can be a little bit of a pain, just start pulling from one side and release each clip as you go. The bottom liner comes off pretty easy. Its pretty self explanatory once you see it.
Once the bottom liner is removed, you can start to work on the upper liner. All you really need to do is pop the lower metal rivet on each side. This is a pain in the *** to do. Be careful not to damage the rivet as you need it to go back into place once finished.
Once that is free, replace each black grill and start putting the liner back together. I just went back along the places it connects with a large wrench banging it back into place so it would snap in. Put the bumper back onto the car and be sure to have each side slide into its proper place.
*Note - I took the led light assembly out of the plastic piece and put it back on once the bumper was secure. It just made life easier.
Once you have the bumper back on, go ahead and plug your resistors into the stock harness and run your left LED hardness to the right side of the car. Plug both right and left harnesses into the DRL module.
Unplug the right side headlight harness. Pull back the black looming/electrical tape and expose a good section of the wires.
From what I found online, the Brown was the ground, White was the High Beam, and Yellow was the low beam. These three wires are a much larger wire than the others in the harness. I had to guess which one ran the DRL Lights in the headlight. There are a few small wires in the harness is well. It wasn't these. There is one wire that is larger than the small ones, but smaller than the larger ones. I can't remember the color, but you can tap into this wire for your power. For your ground, you will see a nut on a stud that is coming off the inside fender. I used this for my ground. Ground your wire, plug the harness in, and test the lights.
If everything works, start tidying up the wires by wrapping in electrical tape and ziptying things in place. Remember the resistors get very hot, so you need to mount them somewhere on the frame preferably so they don't burn anything. Hide the DRL Module somewhere that is safe from getting drenched with water. I put mine underneath the bumper frame.
Reverse your order and put everything back on the way it came off, and you are done.
It took me about 6 hours, however there was a lot of stopping and thinking, pulling, etc, trying to figure out what to do. If I did it again, I could probably do it in 3 hours.
Hope this helps someone, feel free to PM with any questions.
Last edited by Ben Conner; Nov 10, 2014 at 11:00 AM.
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My LED's are tapped into the power source of the stock DRL's or parking lights, whatever you want to call them. So they work just like the newer GLKs. No issue with codes as the product I purchased had resistors included that fools the computer to think the fog lights are still there. Happy to help!






