2013 GLK 250 Fuel Filter change / DIY
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2013 GLK 250 Fuel Filter change / DIY
I have not come across a clear way to do it for this car, so i figured i just write it and see what you guys think
Diff. Level: Easy
Things needed:
-Fuel Filter, i contacted mann directly and got wk 820/ 17. I accidentally purchased the wk 820/18 at first since its listed as compatible.
-If you want to use Clic Clamps, youre going to need a clic plier. Other wise i the standard ring clamps just use a flat head screw driver.
(ive used both and none has leaked)
-clic clamps ( i found 2 sets of #s'. first one has 3/ 36 and 86 145; 2nd one has 2/ 36 and 86 125; i assume the sized are 145 and 125)
-Flat Head screw driver to remove engine cover and remove fuel filter
-A syringe to pump fuel into the fuel filter (i heard this is not necessary to prime filter. but ill explain later)
Step 1:
Pop open the hood by using the lever located on the bottom left hand side under the steering column . Pop the engine cover off by using a a flat head screw driver to pop up on the screw (it doesnt need to come off to take it out, just needs to pop up). Move the cover up slightly to clear the engine oil cover then pull towards you .
Step 2:
Locate Fuel filter
On the driver side of engine block (As shown)
Step 3:
Remove clic clamps by using clic pliers or flat head screw driver. For flat head driver, just need to pop up it up. For clic pliers, use the correct side of it (one way does one thing, the other does the other)
Remove 5 pin power connector by pressing down on the center of it with a flat head and pull out
Step 4:
Remove hoses off the filter, remove the metal clips that hold the filter in place, and remove filter from housing.
Step 5: Prime new filter. Using new diesel, pump it into the fuel filter
Step 6: Put new fuel filter into housing, clip it in on the side, and make sure to put the clamps on first before inserting the hose onto the filter.
Step 7: using the correct side of the clic pliers tighten the clamp or tighten the ring hose with flat head screw driver, also reinsert the 5 pin power cord.
Step 8: Prime the fuel filter by turning your car in 2nd pos. for ten seconds, then turn off. I did this twice.
Step 9: Start car for about 5 min, turn off check for leaks. then replace everything.
Diff. Level: Easy
Things needed:
-Fuel Filter, i contacted mann directly and got wk 820/ 17. I accidentally purchased the wk 820/18 at first since its listed as compatible.
-If you want to use Clic Clamps, youre going to need a clic plier. Other wise i the standard ring clamps just use a flat head screw driver.
(ive used both and none has leaked)
-clic clamps ( i found 2 sets of #s'. first one has 3/ 36 and 86 145; 2nd one has 2/ 36 and 86 125; i assume the sized are 145 and 125)
-Flat Head screw driver to remove engine cover and remove fuel filter
-A syringe to pump fuel into the fuel filter (i heard this is not necessary to prime filter. but ill explain later)
Step 1:
Pop open the hood by using the lever located on the bottom left hand side under the steering column . Pop the engine cover off by using a a flat head screw driver to pop up on the screw (it doesnt need to come off to take it out, just needs to pop up). Move the cover up slightly to clear the engine oil cover then pull towards you .
Step 2:
Locate Fuel filter
On the driver side of engine block (As shown)
Step 3:
Remove clic clamps by using clic pliers or flat head screw driver. For flat head driver, just need to pop up it up. For clic pliers, use the correct side of it (one way does one thing, the other does the other)
Remove 5 pin power connector by pressing down on the center of it with a flat head and pull out
Step 4:
Remove hoses off the filter, remove the metal clips that hold the filter in place, and remove filter from housing.
Step 5: Prime new filter. Using new diesel, pump it into the fuel filter
Step 6: Put new fuel filter into housing, clip it in on the side, and make sure to put the clamps on first before inserting the hose onto the filter.
Step 7: using the correct side of the clic pliers tighten the clamp or tighten the ring hose with flat head screw driver, also reinsert the 5 pin power cord.
Step 8: Prime the fuel filter by turning your car in 2nd pos. for ten seconds, then turn off. I did this twice.
Step 9: Start car for about 5 min, turn off check for leaks. then replace everything.
#5
Member
Thanks for this post. I just realized I'm past due for a filter replacement (supposed to be 40k and I just hit 50k. Glad to see it is easy and straight forward.
Has anyone done it without priming the pump? Getting some diesel to do this sounds like a real hassle, and if it will self-prime with a few turns of the key, I'd much rather do that.
Thanks,
Has anyone done it without priming the pump? Getting some diesel to do this sounds like a real hassle, and if it will self-prime with a few turns of the key, I'd much rather do that.
Thanks,
#6
Member
Thanks for this post. I just realized I'm past due for a filter replacement (supposed to be 40k and I just hit 50k. Glad to see it is easy and straight forward.
Has anyone done it without priming the pump? Getting some diesel to do this sounds like a real hassle, and if it will self-prime with a few turns of the key, I'd much rather do that.
Thanks,
Has anyone done it without priming the pump? Getting some diesel to do this sounds like a real hassle, and if it will self-prime with a few turns of the key, I'd much rather do that.
Thanks,
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slmskrs (06-26-2017)
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#8
Junior Member
I'm in southern ca. do all 2014 GLK250 use filter with heat? OP indicated the non heated one is potentially compatible. I'm seeing the same choice online.
#9
Junior Member
BTW, it's so easy to take the engine cover off and look at the filter. Very obvious it has the black plug assembly. We're having a heat wave right now and I just "forced" myself to leave the air-conditioned living room and get over my laziness! I do wonder if older models may not have the heating element which is what the black plug is for.