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My wife had new tires put on car as rear were wearing and passed the wear bars. They put the new ones on the front and less than a year old fronts on the rear. Now the rears are wearing pretty good, more so on the right side.
I told her she needs to take it in and get alignment checked. It has 60000 miles and she has bit some curbs before..
Question is, are these cars easily adjusted and reputable shops or are they really dealer recommended?
And tire pressure?. She still runs OEM Continental 4x4 tires, as she gets them at a good price. Door and gas tank recommendations are not simply understood for front and rear pressure.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
I'd go with dealer.
Should be 180 or s omething like that.
There are tiny holes in the rim where the mb laser alignment tool goes in to get a more accurate reading from the hub. Most 3rd party shops don't bother getting this tool.
New tires always go on the rear, it’s a saftey issue, but forget that now, even at 60000 an alignment may not be necessary, look at the tire wear pattern .
I'd go with dealer.
Should be 180 or s omething like that.
There are tiny holes in the rim where the mb laser alignment tool goes in to get a more accurate reading from the hub. Most 3rd party shops don't bother getting this tool.
Thankx. I think she will schedule an appointment at the dealership/
New tires always go on the rear, it’s a saftey issue, but forget that now, even at 60000 an alignment may not be necessary, look at the tire wear pattern .
The right rear tire is wearing more on the outer and middle than the left tire.. Both tire pressures are same. I use a very nice gauge I used when I used to autocross.
And the tire pressures on these cars are not very well thought out as to what they should be.. Door and gas tank are different.
I mean, what is normal load if you have 4 people in there vice one, or with 4 people and gear in trunk section.
35 front and 41 rear. Quite a bit of difference. Or should it just be 33 all the way around? I am pretty sure the tire monitoring system wont allow 33 psi..
Last edited by Steves40th; 04-12-2019 at 06:41 AM.
Steve, I agree that a stealership would be the safest place for an alignment. You don't need them often, so paying for it every few years is relatively painless.
On tires' PSI, I run 35 all around and the TPMS is perfectly fine with it. Car handles great, it's usually only driven by my better half though sometimes we both ride. I also run 35 in my own TDI sedan. Best compromise for fuel efficiency, handling, comfort, and ensures even tire wear (they've both had alignments in the last year).
Thats a myth dealing with bias ply and radial from years ago.
And many brands are the same factory made tires, just marked different. You can have tires with same name, size etc made in different plants around the world.
It’s not a myth of having two tires of different wear characteristics that is dangerous. Especially if the better tire is on the front, and one set is worn and hard. You will easily fishtail and loose control of the rear first, I had that happen to me after I just replaced the front tires on a car, the next day I went back and got the new rears. Tire dealers are only supposed to put new tires on the rears, but with antilock and stability systems the danger is reduced but not eliminated.
Okay. Front tires are 3 months old. Rears are over year and half and one is split(they are being replaced).. Road hazard doesnt cover this as its past bars..
I honestly think this is being over analyzed.
Think about cars that have staggered tires, with different patterns front and rear compounds and manufacture dates.
Many people run, safely, drag radials in rear andOEM type/brand up front.
Now, if its an AWD, then run the same..
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by Steves40th
Okay. Front tires are 3 months old. Rears are over year and half and one is split(they are being replaced).. Road hazard doesnt cover this as its past bars..
I honestly think this is being over analyzed.
Think about cars that have staggered tires, with different patterns front and rear compounds and manufacture dates.
Many people run, safely, drag radials in rear andOEM type/brand up front.
Now, if its an AWD, then run the same..
I've always been advised by mechanics to run the same tire all the way round because it can damage the differentials as the car can feel the different handling characteristics front and rear and compensates for it.
I wouldnt risk expensive mechanical parts because of tires.
Even wihh staggered tires. The tires put on are not different compounds, just size.
Tires are exact same size, height.
Now, if it was a 4matic, where you have awd, then there may be differences in speeds etc when driving and during turns. But its not.
As far as the differential is concerned, if one tire is wearing then it is not same diameter as the other tire. So, technically the car has one tire spinning faster than the other.. The car will compensate via pure engineering smarts.
I do feel after driving AWDs , 4WDs , 2Wds, with LSD AND Positraction and open diffs I am not going to worry.
I am more concerned about putting new better, longer lasting tires on the rear and an alignment at MB Monday than worrying about 2 different brands on front and rear.
Originally Posted by kombifan
I've always been advised by mechanics to run the same tire all the way round because it can damage the differentials as the car can feel the different handling characteristics front and rear and compensates for it.
I wouldnt risk expensive mechanical parts because of tires.
Even wihh staggered tires. The tires put on are not different compounds, just size.
Last edited by Steves40th; 04-13-2019 at 01:47 PM.
My wife has those pirellis on her Volvo and I was going to put them on the GLK, but she had to replace 2 of them at 20k miles so I noped out and went with the michellins.
My wife has those pirellis on her Volvo and I was going to put them on the GLK, but she had to replace 2 of them at 20k miles so I noped out and went with the michellins.
20K miles is low for a 600 treadwear rating. Too many burnouts, aggressive driving? Seriously, that is about 40 to 60% lower than normal.
Do point out "Full Front and Rear Alignment" is only "Toe" - (directional) adjustment OEM. Gone are the days of Camber and Caster to "adjust tire contact angles" Now it is quoted "In Spec" with wide alignment parameters.
We saw the need, therefore, to re-instate from the early 90's full, precise front and rear adjustment allowing to change tire contact angles.
Essential to cater for other than "showroom height" conditions - day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, altered height, fitting wide profile tires, correctly resolving steering pull and simply "having ongoing adjustment capability for curb knock damage.
Precise, single wrench. Accurately - under load, direct on alignment rack. With close to "5 times" the adjustment range of the only other option (front only) - inaccurate "one offset position" fluted bolts. These providing a minimum of 0.3 of one-degree change.
No more ongoing trips from one dealer or alignment shop to the next or constantly charging tire brands in the belief that somehow this will resolve the premature, costly edge tire wear.
The K-MAC front and rear kits also replace the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings at the same time (1st items to fail).
GLK 350 (X204)
Front Camber & Caster adjuster kit #502616K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502226K $480 Rear Uprated Bush kit '6' multi-link arms #502628K $480
(less twitch/flex, loss of traction)
what are the specs of your vehicle? is it a 4matic? is it AMG 20" wheels?
My front camber and rear toe specs couldn't come close to yours. the alignment tech said I have to purchase aftermarket adjustment bolts to get more adjustability. Car has not been in an accidnet either
what are the specs of your vehicle? is it a 4matic? is it AMG 20" wheels?
My front camber and rear toe specs couldn't come close to yours. the alignment tech said I have to purchase aftermarket adjustment bolts to get more adjustability. Car has not been in an accidnet either
Mine is a 2wd standard GLK 350. No AMG, No 4matic...Front and rear tires are the same..I believe 19's
I haven't heard of needing to get different hardware to properly adjust alignment to spec.
It was at a wheel works locations. I mean it was marginally off specs at the end of the day so I am wondering if the larger 20" wheels and tires had anything to do with it since I have the AMG package
04-11-2019, 08:54 PM
