Thanks for the update srb, fingers crossed.
Enjoy your weekend.

 

Thanks. I gave it the royal treatment when I got it home. A good shine has to help doesn't it?

 

OETuning has good solutions and I was happy not to have to chop off parts. Plus the thing is truly a beast now; was no slouch before, but now it’s exactly how I wished it was from the factory.

Srb, she’s a beauty and we’re all hoping she gives you no more troubles. It needs to be reliable for your daughter and you’re being a great father faking care of things.

Keep us posted on the progress and wish everyone a happy, safe Labor Day weekend.

 

Hello everyone. I posted an update on my other thread. All is well and the little GLK is happy again. Thanks for all the feedback.

 

AETuning got back to me this morning, I was really impressed with their depth of knowledge. The only potential issue was that they seemed a bit hesitant to confirm that their tune would make the sensors less finicky, which is my main aim. Their outline focused on increased HP and torque, neither of which are a concern to me (my wife is no Lewis Hamilton).
Andreigbs, do you know if making the sensors less finicky is part of the software or a result of a cleaner burn? Regardless, I am leaning towards a tune just because the emissions systems on these cars seem to be such a pervasive problem.

One interesting thing that AETuning mentioned is that there is a slight possibility of a mandatory software update from MB in the future similar to the one carried out in Europe. If it's in the form of a TSB, no problem because it can be ignored but if it's an actual recall it would pose problem as any update would overwrite the AE tune. I'm guessing that this scenario is so remote that it's worth rolling the dice.. .

 

@karmikan, the tune makes the engine burn fuel more efficiently therefore cleanly, while making more power. The sensors in the emissions system still work as intended, but with a better burn, this results in less wasted fuel and cleaner emissions.

There may be a software update from MB in the near future, possibly as part of the emissions settlement. If so, then the software update will be required for those owners who wish to participate. If you have a tune installed, the dealer will overwrite it. With the flash loader still in my possession, I can always rewrite my tune back on. The question is whether the MB tune is part of a larger extended warranty campaign that goes with the settlement (like in VW's case) and how they plan to do it. The point is, you can always rewrite the tune back if you have the flash load tool.

 

I'd recommend the software update from MB first. It's cured my problems so far.

 

Especially if the MB update is free. The tune is over $650 at the moment.

 

Finally able to clear the code and it's stayed clear while driving today. Many thanks for your info and advice guys. If the CEL stays off - great, if it comes back I have a much clearer idea of what to do. Wife's happy so I'm happy.

 

I wish you the best but based on my experience I think it will reappear in a few days. Let's hope I'm wrong and everyone remains happy. Fingers crossed for you.

 

I've gotten a 111500 error code "The regeneration frequency of the DPF is not ok", Can a leaking turbo oil seal contribute to the DPF problem? I am burning oil through the turbo intake. Is the Delta P sensor most likely problem?


Also have 5025 CAN communication with the engine system is faulty, 5106 and 5116 L6/1-2 L and Right front speed sensors (carry out visual inspection. Does the 5025 code indicate one of the DPF sensors are bad? Or would this be related to the speed sensors?

Can I drive it or will I start getting a 'starts remaining' countdown?


Thanks

 

Might be better to start your own thread, but...

Not sure what scan tool you're using, I don't recognize any of those error codes. You should be getting P-codes, like P0101 or P2002 or codes like that.

You have to confirm whether the oil is in the intake piping before the turbo, or whether it's the turbo itself. Disconnect either of the lower intercooler hoses and see if you have oil dripping out or pooling anywhere.

If you can't get DPF regens to complete, it will eventually go into "limp home" mode which means running in severely reduced power and jerky gear changes. You'll definitely know it. The "X starts remaining" countdown is related to the DEF being low or empty, which doesn't appear to be your issue.

 

I have the icarsoft i980. The description reads " The regenerative frequency of the DPF is not ok"

Regarding the oil in the turbo, I have taken the intake loose from the turbo and started the engine and can see a film of oil running into the turbo. Would that indicate the (or one of) turbo shaft seal is leaking?

 

Not too familiar with the iCarsoft devices, I've heard good and bad things about them. It is likely pointing out the problem: the amount of DPF regens is not normal. To me, because of your burning oil situation, the ECU monitors the ash/soot level in the DPF and determines when it needs a regen to clean it out. If you're burning oil, you're adding a lot of carbon particles and probably making it regen far too often, leading to the error message.

How many miles on your Bluetec? When did you start noticing oil burning? What oil do you use and have been using? How often do you change it? Do you drive the car like it's intended to be (ie, not like an old fart) and getting on the boost often? So many questions, so little time.

 

andreigbs, Thanks for taking the time to answer. Typically I'm changing the oil every 8K using Pentosin 5w40 or sometimes Mobile1. I'm not driving like an old lady but not screeching the tires from every stop either. The vehicle currently has ~112000K miles. The service book shows the previous owner had the turbo serviced (seals?) at about 58K miles. I agree that the burning oil is likely to be putting an extra load on the DPF. This oil leak has been going on for a few months. Usually my wife drives this so not a large amount of miles so I've let the repair slide because it is such a large job. But I may not be able to continue to do that.

So your opinion is that it might be in regen mode too often. And what is the problem with that? So it may still be going to regen, just more often that expected???

Thanks!

 

Both of those oils should be fine, provided they meet the 229.51 or 229.52 MB oil spec. I'm OK with the change interval too. However, it does worry me that the previous owner had the turbo "serviced" as I'm not sure what requires servicing unless something broke. These Bluetecs use a two-turbo setup, a small one for quick spooling at lower revs and a large one for even more boost at higher rpm. It's one of the ways you're getting 200hp out of a 2.1L engine. Of course, if you're talking about your ML350, that's a different beast altogether and you should check out the other subforum for MLs.

If the turbo(s) required repairs around 58K miles and you're at twice that now, perhaps whatever went wrong initially has done so again? The risk of ingesting oil on a diesel engine is something we call "runaway" and it can severely damage the motor if it happens. I would take it to a trusted MB Indy shop and have them inspect the turbo. You don't want to keep pouring oil into what is sometimes a glowing hot turbine. The DPF concern would be secondary in my opinion. Once you get the oil leak resolved, your DPF should recover. In the meantime, I would run LiquiMoly DPF protector in the fuel tank to help clean the DPF and protect it from too much sooty gook clogging up the very fine channels.

Edit: the problem with too frequent regens is the heat cycles and metal stress/fatigue that occurs around all the joints, not to mention the bits inside. There's also the concern of fuel diluting the motor oil because extra fuel is injected post-combustion stroke to heat up the exhaust to over 1100*F. The extra heat is what bakes off the soot and ash, allowing it to be blown out of the DPF. With the motor oil diluted with fuel, you can have cylinder scoring and other problems. Regens are typically set to happen around 600 miles on our Bluetecs; you don't want them occurring at 2-3 times that rate.

 

I don't know but maybe the turbo shaft seal(s) were replaced under warranty. The owner just indicated "oil leak at turbo inlet" in the book which is what I see now, leaking oil (a thin film being pulled into the turbo) when I look in the turbo inlet while the engine is running. What else could this come from except for a leaking shaft seal? The MB dealer told me they don't replace seals, just the entire unit. Warranty vs non-warranty???

 

Most likely won't be covered by warranty unless you've bought an extended warranty. Repairs performed at MB and other dealers are typically waranteed for 12k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

I would say a rebuilt turbo may be in your future, and I wouldn't pay the MB stealership to do it. Find a good Euro shop to officially diagnose it as a bad turbo and swap it out.

 

I read the instruction that Major Dundee sent and it looks like a doable job. On thing that gives me a little pause is the "E" type exhaust manifold bolts with the hard to get to positioning. If a head strips or a bolt breaks then it will be a BAD day. I will go to the shop first to verify exactly what is going on then proceed accordingly.

From my diagnosis and the input of folks here I'm inclined to agree that the DPF is regenerating too often because of burning oil and thus the reason for the error code. If true the turbo needs to be swapped out. I see units for sale from ~850-1250 depending on the brand. I assume a gasket set will need to be bought.

I'll report back in a few days after I have had the vehicle inspected. Thanks

 

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Hello to everyone who responded to this thread,

I'm trying to gather a bunch of MB diesel owners in the US who've had to replace their soot particulate sensor at under 120,000 miles. In 2018, Mercedes Canada sent out a letter that extended the warranty on this part to 120,000 miles; probably forced by regulators there to do so. Obviously, Mercedes is well aware this is a defective part.

When my sensor failed at 81,500 (2014 GLK 250), I appealed to my dealer and Mercedes USA to cover this $980 fix (USA warranty expired at 80K), referring them to the extension in Canada. It did me little good as they refused.

There is one sure way to get MB to reimburse replacement costs on this sensor: having the NHTSA do the same thing that Canada did by compelling them to do so with a recall. If you would you be willing to sign onto a letter appealing to the NHTSA, please let me know.

Thanks.

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...pf#post8341660