1st Time GLK Buyer
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Joined: Oct 2020
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Mercedes GLK
1st Time GLK Buyer
Hello everyone,
I’m looking at buying a used 2010 Mercedes GLK 350 4MATIC. It was manufactured in Germany, has 128,000 miles & 1 owner who claims to have kept up with the maintenance, although they do not have records to prove. I am on the verge of getting it for $7500. I took it to the mechanic for the inspection and they couldn’t find any immediate issues with the engine or transmission. No leaks. Ran smooth as butter when I took it for a drive. Only the front shocks/struts need replacing soon.
I was hoping to get some feedback from anyone who has owned this model or a similar model. Has anyone had experience or seen this car get up to 200k miles or more?
Should I go for it? Or is this a money pit?
Any and all comments are appreciated
I’m looking at buying a used 2010 Mercedes GLK 350 4MATIC. It was manufactured in Germany, has 128,000 miles & 1 owner who claims to have kept up with the maintenance, although they do not have records to prove. I am on the verge of getting it for $7500. I took it to the mechanic for the inspection and they couldn’t find any immediate issues with the engine or transmission. No leaks. Ran smooth as butter when I took it for a drive. Only the front shocks/struts need replacing soon.
I was hoping to get some feedback from anyone who has owned this model or a similar model. Has anyone had experience or seen this car get up to 200k miles or more?
Should I go for it? Or is this a money pit?
Any and all comments are appreciated
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 78
From: Toronto, Canada
GLC300 (mine) GLK250 (wife's)
Almost any10+ yr old car with 120K+ mi poses a risk. The downside risk for German luxury vehicles is simply huge if servicing at a dealership is anticipated. On the plus side, the GLK is built like a bank vault and some systems are fairly straightforward to fix. As you've probably figured out after reading posts on this site, complicated, expensive problems can crop up and the cost of parts can be eye-watering. Do you know a reputable indy with solid verifiable MB experience? Almost as important, can you DIY?
If the mechanic who inspected the car is experienced working on German/MB cars - great. If not I would take the car to an MB specialist and have a comprehensive inspection done. The absence of service/repair records is a bit of a red flag and I would investigate this further with the owner.
Good luck
If the mechanic who inspected the car is experienced working on German/MB cars - great. If not I would take the car to an MB specialist and have a comprehensive inspection done. The absence of service/repair records is a bit of a red flag and I would investigate this further with the owner.
Good luck
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 422
Likes: 61
From: South East US.
2015 GLK350
The weak point on these is the 4matic system. Specifically the transfer case. Listen for a speed related whine coming from the front indicating the bearings going out. Repairs for the transfer case / front differential can easily approach the purchase price of the car.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 342
2013 glk 350
With no maintenance records I’d probably pass, to me that means lack of maintenance, all mb owners know that records are important.
If you don’t have an independent mechanic I’d pass because a dealership will kill you on repairs.
If you don’t have an independent mechanic I’d pass because a dealership will kill you on repairs.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 319
From: WI
GLK 250
Any car can be a money pit, especially German luxury brands.
I'd make sure I really trust the mechanic, otherwise he might be telling you one thing before you buy it and something quite different after. You wouldn't be the first.
I would also up my budget to $10k, that way you can find a more recent model with less miles. I'd be very wary of no history/records being available. Doesn't CarFax or Autocheck come up with anything? And before you purchase anything, you should see and drive at least a few of the ones you're looking at. Nothing is more helpful than comparing the same model back to back to back.
Good luck.
I'd make sure I really trust the mechanic, otherwise he might be telling you one thing before you buy it and something quite different after. You wouldn't be the first.
I would also up my budget to $10k, that way you can find a more recent model with less miles. I'd be very wary of no history/records being available. Doesn't CarFax or Autocheck come up with anything? And before you purchase anything, you should see and drive at least a few of the ones you're looking at. Nothing is more helpful than comparing the same model back to back to back.
Good luck.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 115
From: Northern NJ
GLK 350 / Porsche 993
Here is the noise of failing transfer case bearing.
https://photos.app.*******/gYztWBkDyjr1W9WY9
If you can wrench and have time and interest, sure can be good deal, but here is what I faced in 2020 after owning car since new....11 year 105k miles:
Idler pulley seized and melted shredding the belt. Easy job, but I was literally stranded (1 mile away from home tho).
Crank pulley failed...easy but requires muscle and special tool. At dealer 1k easy. I used OEM pulley, MB cost was stupid.
Transfer case bearing (noise above). Dealer will tell you to get new tranny. I don't know how much indy would charge. It's not easiest job. See here: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...anny-diff.html
Next up is intake manifold a know issue, those start to fail from dirt build up. I'm getting 0521 code (no cel) and runs fine. I'm not in rush to replace this one yet. Will probably replace AOS and PCV pipes at that time.
Engine mounts start to fail (no big deal but you start getting vibration) after 60k miles, I replaced mine at 90k, and it's a PITA job on AWD.
Then you have reg. things to consider, tires, battery, transmission service, plugs. Wheels are most likely bent if 20s (not bad but not super straight either)
Waterpump and T-stat are also on my list.
Again this is on a car I have had since new and it still looks like new. So don't kid yourself about what you are buying. It's a 10 year old car.
https://photos.app.*******/gYztWBkDyjr1W9WY9
If you can wrench and have time and interest, sure can be good deal, but here is what I faced in 2020 after owning car since new....11 year 105k miles:
Idler pulley seized and melted shredding the belt. Easy job, but I was literally stranded (1 mile away from home tho).
Crank pulley failed...easy but requires muscle and special tool. At dealer 1k easy. I used OEM pulley, MB cost was stupid.
Transfer case bearing (noise above). Dealer will tell you to get new tranny. I don't know how much indy would charge. It's not easiest job. See here: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...anny-diff.html
Next up is intake manifold a know issue, those start to fail from dirt build up. I'm getting 0521 code (no cel) and runs fine. I'm not in rush to replace this one yet. Will probably replace AOS and PCV pipes at that time.
Engine mounts start to fail (no big deal but you start getting vibration) after 60k miles, I replaced mine at 90k, and it's a PITA job on AWD.
Then you have reg. things to consider, tires, battery, transmission service, plugs. Wheels are most likely bent if 20s (not bad but not super straight either)
Waterpump and T-stat are also on my list.
Again this is on a car I have had since new and it still looks like new. So don't kid yourself about what you are buying. It's a 10 year old car.
Last edited by NYCGLK; Oct 7, 2020 at 08:16 AM.
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 482
Likes: 140
GLK250 ML350
Here is the noise of failing transfer case bearing.
https://photos.app.*******/gYztWBkDyjr1W9WY9
If you can wrench and have time and interest, sure can be good deal, but here is what I faced in 2020 after owning car since new....11 year 105k miles:
Idler pulley melted shredding the belt. Easy job, but I was literally stranded (1 mile away from home tho).
Crank pulley failed...easy but requires muscle and special tool. At dealer 1k easy. I used OEM pulley, MB cost was stupid.
Transfer case bearing (noise above). Dealer will tell you to get new tranny. I don't know how much indy would charge. It's not easiest job. See here: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...anny-diff.html
Next up is intake manifold a know issue, those start to fail from dirt build up. I'm getting 0521 code (no cel) and run runs fine. I'm not in rush to replace this one yet. Will probably replace AOS and PCV pipes at that time.
Engine mounts start to fail (no big deal but you start getting vibration) after 60k miles, I replaced mine at 90k, and it's a PITA job on AWD.
Then you have reg. things to consider, tires, battery, transmission service, plugs. Wheels are most likely bent if 20s (not bad but not super straight either)
Waterpump and T-stat are also on my list.
Again this is on a car I have had since new and it still looks like new. So don't kid yourself about what you are buying. It's a 10 year old car.
https://photos.app.*******/gYztWBkDyjr1W9WY9
If you can wrench and have time and interest, sure can be good deal, but here is what I faced in 2020 after owning car since new....11 year 105k miles:
Idler pulley melted shredding the belt. Easy job, but I was literally stranded (1 mile away from home tho).
Crank pulley failed...easy but requires muscle and special tool. At dealer 1k easy. I used OEM pulley, MB cost was stupid.
Transfer case bearing (noise above). Dealer will tell you to get new tranny. I don't know how much indy would charge. It's not easiest job. See here: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...anny-diff.html
Next up is intake manifold a know issue, those start to fail from dirt build up. I'm getting 0521 code (no cel) and run runs fine. I'm not in rush to replace this one yet. Will probably replace AOS and PCV pipes at that time.
Engine mounts start to fail (no big deal but you start getting vibration) after 60k miles, I replaced mine at 90k, and it's a PITA job on AWD.
Then you have reg. things to consider, tires, battery, transmission service, plugs. Wheels are most likely bent if 20s (not bad but not super straight either)
Waterpump and T-stat are also on my list.
Again this is on a car I have had since new and it still looks like new. So don't kid yourself about what you are buying. It's a 10 year old car.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 115
From: Northern NJ
GLK 350 / Porsche 993
The only part that really sucks on this car is failing bearing in the TC but that will apply to pretty much every 4matic.
Diesel is likely to have all these problem on top of its own stuff stuff.
