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I drained the radiator but only got 1 gallon out. I want to remove all of it. But the easiest way .
Of note my 2013 - 65000 miles the voltage of the coolant was .17, good coolant is below .04, so most of you good folks need new coolant before it creates a leak
I think (not sure) you're supposed to remove the lowest coolant hose where it attaches to the radiator, then pour in new coolant through the reservoir opening until you have flushed it all out.
There may still be some residual old coolant left in various passages of the engine itself, but they will be "refreshed' by the new coolant as it flows once the water pump pushes it all throughout.
Make sure to set the heater controls to max heat, to ensure heater core and any other areas are burped of air.
2013 GLK250, 2022 Tesla MYLR, 1997 Correct Craft Ski Nautique
Haven't changed mine yet. But a suggestion from experience with other car flushes. After you flush out, I put a wet/dry vacuum on the lowest hose which sucks out most of the remaining water/coolant in the engine. That way I'm not mixing anything but only put in new coolant. I'd try vacuuming since you only got a gallon out.
Another idea is to pressurize the coolant system using a Motive bleeder. An adapter cap will need to be rigged up.
For a proper job, some tools need to be purchased. Either the MB vacuum system or a bleeder. Use of a bleeder may remove the coolant but does not guarantee elimination of air pockets.
2013 GLK250, 2022 Tesla MYLR, 1997 Correct Craft Ski Nautique
Originally Posted by Mmr1
I drained the radiator but only got 1 gallon out. I want to remove all of it. But the easiest way .
Of note my 2013 - 65000 miles the voltage of the coolant was .17, good coolant is below .04, so most of you good folks need new coolant before it creates a leak
Where is this info on checking coolant via voltage, test method, etc.? You've got the meter set to 20VDC. Where/how are you running voltage? Are you looking at voltage (metals in fluid) from two test probes in a container of fluid? Or running voltage some other way? This is interesting; would like to know more.
Does anyone happens to know where is located the coolant sensor (2010)?
The coolant temperature is good (90c) but I got a P0128 so I doubt it is the thermostat.
I would like to replace the temp sensor first since i already got a brand new one anyways (worth the try).
Then if it still showing p0128 maybe I should drain it and replace all the coolant like you did.
I just replaced my upper radiator hose on my 2005 CLK320 because it would occasionally loose fluid or spew out of edge.. I thought the worst then bought a new radiator which I installed yet... and have been so busy I hadnt had time to do this work for a few months... during that time and reading Ive realized it was the upper hose so picked up a new one... while trying to remove I realized the retaining clip on radiator was almost impossible to remove as I believe it was put on backwards... with the area to pull wedged up against the body frame and not inward towards fan which would make it far easier to replace... i spent a good 30 mins trying to work of fhe clip with about 5mm room max to pull until it bumped into frame... new hose went on fast and easy and snapped right into place with the spring clamp retainer pulling towards center of car and not against frame.. so far has been nice and secure.. if this all sounds right let me know! generally these CLKS are a breeze to work on and what Ive found out is.. it becomes hard if PO did something incorrect....( or me maybe lol )
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