2010 GLK350 4MATIC
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GLK 350 (2010)
2010 GLK350 4MATIC
Hello folks of the MB community. I find myself in quite a pickle.
2 days ago I went to start my GLK and it turned and stopped turning. So, I figured I've had the car for 6 years, the battery must be a bit low so I hooked up the battery charger. Charged it up and eventually the car started. I immediately went to the parts store, bought a brand new battery for the car. went through the proper process of removing the old battery and installing the new one. As i installed the new one, I heard a click somewhere near the battery. (Kinda felt normal sound of things settling into place). But when I went to start the car, it just does not start, does not even turn actually.. Made certain I have a fully charged battery, voltage is good at 12.25V. Checked most fuses under the hood, etc. I do have a diagnostics tool ICar MBII but I am unsure what to look for. Any thoughts?
2 days ago I went to start my GLK and it turned and stopped turning. So, I figured I've had the car for 6 years, the battery must be a bit low so I hooked up the battery charger. Charged it up and eventually the car started. I immediately went to the parts store, bought a brand new battery for the car. went through the proper process of removing the old battery and installing the new one. As i installed the new one, I heard a click somewhere near the battery. (Kinda felt normal sound of things settling into place). But when I went to start the car, it just does not start, does not even turn actually.. Made certain I have a fully charged battery, voltage is good at 12.25V. Checked most fuses under the hood, etc. I do have a diagnostics tool ICar MBII but I am unsure what to look for. Any thoughts?
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
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GLK 250
+1 on this.
You need to top-up the new battery. Once it's topped off, it should retain a full charge, unlike the old one.
Hopefully you got the same specs on the new one vs the old? As in same CA and CCA ratings.
You need to top-up the new battery. Once it's topped off, it should retain a full charge, unlike the old one.
Hopefully you got the same specs on the new one vs the old? As in same CA and CCA ratings.
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From: WI
GLK 250
I believe the headlamps don't turn on until the engine is running; marker lights and daytime running lamps in the bumper would be on.
Once you have the new battery topped off, you need to drive it regularly to keep it charged. I'm assuming that's going to be the case, so you should be fine heading into winter.
Once you have the new battery topped off, you need to drive it regularly to keep it charged. I'm assuming that's going to be the case, so you should be fine heading into winter.
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GLK 350 (2010)
So, the Battery is nominal, I checked the fuses (#7 20 gage) should be the starter and does seem ok. Still no joy...When I put the key in the dashboard lights up, the steering colomn drops to my prefered setting, the inside lights are on but the engine just doesn't turn... I'm at a loss.
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GLK 250
Any chance the wiring to the starter has come loose? Or the wiring at the battery terminal(s)? BTW, i would disable that comfort entry/exit setting for the steering wheel. If the mechanism breaks, it's no fun to have to replace. Just set the steering wheel where you need it and leave it there. OK, sorry for the unrelated rant...
I would double-check the wiring to/from battery and to/from starter.
I would double-check the wiring to/from battery and to/from starter.
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GLK 350 (2010)
I will check the wiring just in case but highly doubtful on this being the issue, Nothing out of the ordinary happened to the car really, it started fine Saturday, Sunday morning did not start so I charged the battery, it started so I took a chance and went to the autopart store and bought a brand new bnattery that would be compatible for my car. came back home, removed the old battery and installed the new one. Just wont turn anymore. I tried putting the old battery back in and still nothing.
It's as if a connection is lost somewhere. But where?
It's as if a connection is lost somewhere. But where?
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
When you try to start it, what happens to the dash lights? Do you hear any clicks or other sounds when you turn the key to start? (Do you have keyless go?)
Check the connections to the battery to ensure they are clean and tight. Make sure the heavy ground wire to the engine block is tight. Measure the voltage when you try to start, at the battery itself, then at the terminals that connect to the battery.
Check the connections to the battery to ensure they are clean and tight. Make sure the heavy ground wire to the engine block is tight. Measure the voltage when you try to start, at the battery itself, then at the terminals that connect to the battery.
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GLK 350 (2010)
I can try that. the click how ever seems to have come from near the battery though and not like a bad starter that wont engage. I've had that before on another vehicle and it definately was not like that.
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GLK 350 (2010)
When you try to start it, what happens to the dash lights? Do you hear any clicks or other sounds when you turn the key to start? (Do you have keyless go?)
Check the connections to the battery to ensure they are clean and tight. Make sure the heavy ground wire to the engine block is tight. Measure the voltage when you try to start, at the battery itself, then at the terminals that connect to the battery.
Check the connections to the battery to ensure they are clean and tight. Make sure the heavy ground wire to the engine block is tight. Measure the voltage when you try to start, at the battery itself, then at the terminals that connect to the battery.
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GLK 250
Hmm, that's definitely starting to sound more and more like ESL failure to me. Could be out of the blue and have nothing to do with the battery. If the ESL goes, the steering column doesn't unlock and the car can't be started.
We've ruled this out definitively?
We've ruled this out definitively?
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GLK 350 (2010)
Hi, thanks. How can we test this? what is an ESL?
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GLK 250
ESL is the electronic steering lock on the steering column. Normally when you put the key in, and before you turn it to start the car, you should hear the steering column unlock. If you don't hear that, the ESL is likely dead.
Just guessing now, since we don't know much else. You can do a search on ESL, here's just one result: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...-no-crank.html
Just guessing now, since we don't know much else. You can do a search on ESL, here's just one result: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...-no-crank.html
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GLK 350 (2010)
ESL is the electronic steering lock on the steering column. Normally when you put the key in, and before you turn it to start the car, you should hear the steering column unlock. If you don't hear that, the ESL is likely dead.
Just guessing now, since we don't know much else. You can do a search on ESL, here's just one result: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...-no-crank.html
Just guessing now, since we don't know much else. You can do a search on ESL, here's just one result: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...-no-crank.html
I"ll keep posting if this fixes the issue for future reference.
S
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
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GLK 350 (2010)
Hi, the key does turn in the ignition switch, but when I put it in the 3rd position(to start the engin) it turns completely but no contact seems to start the engin. nothin, not a clic or anything just dead. The lights in the dashbord do turn on as usual it just will not start...
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GLK 250
I would say if you can turn the key in the ignition AND the steering is unlocked, then it's likely not the ESL. Although...you should hear the steering lock when you remove the key and hear the mechanism in the column unlock when you insert the key.
It could have died in the unlocked position, but I haven't experienced that - maybe others have? Did we ever get error code(s) checked on it? It would be a good idea to have a scan tool handy.
It could have died in the unlocked position, but I haven't experienced that - maybe others have? Did we ever get error code(s) checked on it? It would be a good idea to have a scan tool handy.
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GLK 350 (2010)
I would say if you can turn the key in the ignition AND the steering is unlocked, then it's likely not the ESL. Although...you should hear the steering lock when you remove the key and hear the mechanism in the column unlock when you insert the key.
It could have died in the unlocked position, but I haven't experienced that - maybe others have? Did we ever get error code(s) checked on it? It would be a good idea to have a scan tool handy.
It could have died in the unlocked position, but I haven't experienced that - maybe others have? Did we ever get error code(s) checked on it? It would be a good idea to have a scan tool handy.
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From: WI
GLK 250
If you can't hear the mechanism lock or unlock, I think that indicates the ESL has failed. This would be the only thing preventing the car from starting, if all else has checked out (battery, fuses, fuel and air, no other error codes).
When mine failed on a 2008 C300, I was able to unlock the car with the keyfob and put the key in the ignition lock, but the steering wheel column did not unlock and I also heard no mechanism noise when inserting or removing the key. This should be clearly audible. Not knowing what it was, I ended up paying $2500 for the dealer to fix including the tow.
If you can find someone local, or a workaround like some that are available now, I'd give that a try. I wouldn't go to the MB dealer unless its the last possible option.
When mine failed on a 2008 C300, I was able to unlock the car with the keyfob and put the key in the ignition lock, but the steering wheel column did not unlock and I also heard no mechanism noise when inserting or removing the key. This should be clearly audible. Not knowing what it was, I ended up paying $2500 for the dealer to fix including the tow.
If you can find someone local, or a workaround like some that are available now, I'd give that a try. I wouldn't go to the MB dealer unless its the last possible option.
