GLK 350 crankshaft position sensor code
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GLK 350 camshaft position sensor code
(Title is wrong should be camshaft)
Well I got my wish..
2013 GLK 350 135k miles. I've owned it for a 1000 miles and noticed an intermittent check engine light today. Only code came back camshaft position sensor.
It's also got the rough idle at startup MB made a bulletin about. Can't find it ATM, but specifically remember it saying No further damage expected from this issue. This thread is how I diagnosed that issue that.. I assume many just live with?
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w166/506780-making-weird-noise-startup-please-help-2.html
..but since everything's in the same relative vicinity I was wondering what MB world thought. Did the rough idle cause the sensor to start going bad? I've seen some say to be very picky about the oil. Is that it?
So far that light for code camshaft sensor has come on and went off one time.
Thoughts?
Well I got my wish..
2013 GLK 350 135k miles. I've owned it for a 1000 miles and noticed an intermittent check engine light today. Only code came back camshaft position sensor.
It's also got the rough idle at startup MB made a bulletin about. Can't find it ATM, but specifically remember it saying No further damage expected from this issue. This thread is how I diagnosed that issue that.. I assume many just live with?
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w166/506780-making-weird-noise-startup-please-help-2.html
..but since everything's in the same relative vicinity I was wondering what MB world thought. Did the rough idle cause the sensor to start going bad? I've seen some say to be very picky about the oil. Is that it?
So far that light for code camshaft sensor has come on and went off one time.
Thoughts?
Last edited by GLKwanter; Jun 12, 2023 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Title should say cam not crank shaft
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
I can't speak about the GLK's lifespan or characteristics of a failing CPS, but in general, most vehicles will show the same symptoms.
I have had direct experience with a failing CPS on our 2001 Jeep Wrangler (somewhere in 120k-130k miles). Ran very sporadically... starting it was a gamble whether it would fire right up or would take numerous attempts. Sometimes if you let it sit for 15 minutes, it would then fire right up.
Anyway, I replaced the CPS... took about an hour total ... but keep in mind, on the Wrangler, it's a straight six, and it sits up high, so crawling under and reaching the CPS was a breeze. After replacing, start ups and running is as normal.
But like I said, not sure about the GLK, but in general, I'd replace it "now", rather than later.
I have had direct experience with a failing CPS on our 2001 Jeep Wrangler (somewhere in 120k-130k miles). Ran very sporadically... starting it was a gamble whether it would fire right up or would take numerous attempts. Sometimes if you let it sit for 15 minutes, it would then fire right up.
Anyway, I replaced the CPS... took about an hour total ... but keep in mind, on the Wrangler, it's a straight six, and it sits up high, so crawling under and reaching the CPS was a breeze. After replacing, start ups and running is as normal.
But like I said, not sure about the GLK, but in general, I'd replace it "now", rather than later.
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I can't speak about the GLK's lifespan or characteristics of a failing CPS, but in general, most vehicles will show the same symptoms.
I have had direct experience with a failing CPS on our 2001 Jeep Wrangler (somewhere in 120k-130k miles). Ran very sporadically... starting it was a gamble whether it would fire right up or would take numerous attempts. Sometimes if you let it sit for 15 minutes, it would then fire right up.
Anyway, I replaced the CPS... took about an hour total ... but keep in mind, on the Wrangler, it's a straight six, and it sits up high, so crawling under and reaching the CPS was a breeze. After replacing, start ups and running is as normal.
But like I said, not sure about the GLK, but in general, I'd replace it "now", rather than later.
I have had direct experience with a failing CPS on our 2001 Jeep Wrangler (somewhere in 120k-130k miles). Ran very sporadically... starting it was a gamble whether it would fire right up or would take numerous attempts. Sometimes if you let it sit for 15 minutes, it would then fire right up.
Anyway, I replaced the CPS... took about an hour total ... but keep in mind, on the Wrangler, it's a straight six, and it sits up high, so crawling under and reaching the CPS was a breeze. After replacing, start ups and running is as normal.
But like I said, not sure about the GLK, but in general, I'd replace it "now", rather than later.
The Carfax shows the oil was changed 3,000 mi ago, but it's not as clean as I would suspect and then it was just put up for sale at the dealership I bought it at. I don't figure they used great oil, and I should obviously change it if I feel this way. I ponder this could cause a CPS to go bad.
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
< wipes forehead >
Whew!! I thought "four" CPS ?!?!?! That can't be !!
Okay, so ... good that got clarified !
On to the next challenge...
Whew!! I thought "four" CPS ?!?!?! That can't be !!
Okay, so ... good that got clarified !
On to the next challenge...
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
How long have you had it? Didn't the dealer give you any kind of warranty? CEL should be covered. Sounds likely the problem was there before you bought it.
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
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The rough startup idle would be great to fix myself, but it's a lot of work I'd have to buy some tools and if it's 'not going to cause further issues' I doubt I'll bother. But I wonder if the 2 second vibration could shorten the life of a Cam PS..
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
2 months. Out of state purchase. No engine codes for a 1000 miles. It's a decade old, needs new tires too.. I'm prepared to do some work and barring an accident keep it forever given I might drive 6K a year. Is what it is. I'm changing the oil this weekend. CarFax says it was done 3k ago, but then sold so who knows if that's true or what they put in. No sticker indicating anywhere.
The rough startup idle would be great to fix myself, but it's a lot of work I'd have to buy some tools and if it's 'not going to cause further issues' I doubt I'll bother. But I wonder if the 2 second vibration could shorten the life of a Cam PS..
The rough startup idle would be great to fix myself, but it's a lot of work I'd have to buy some tools and if it's 'not going to cause further issues' I doubt I'll bother. But I wonder if the 2 second vibration could shorten the life of a Cam PS..
Vibration is from misfire or worn engine mounts. This engine is smooth as silk when plugs, coils and sensors are in good order. MB engine mounts are like jello which is good for comfort but bad for longevity.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I'm not sure the problem the OP referenced applies to the X204 (seems to more of a diesel / V8 thing?). Anyway, yes... when the motor mounts are bad, they really transmit lots of shake and rumble to the rest of the vehicle. When you replace them, you can hardly tell the engine started.
If the car is a RWD variant, it's an easy 2-hour job (though it does require a special tool or two). If it's a 4Matic, it's a MUCH bigger job (8-10 hours). I did a youtube video on the difference between worn-out motor mounts and new ones (I won't post a link here because it insists on showing it as an embedded screen in the post). If you can't find it just search "Mercedes GLK 350 X204 - New vs. Worn Out Motor Mounts".
If the car is a RWD variant, it's an easy 2-hour job (though it does require a special tool or two). If it's a 4Matic, it's a MUCH bigger job (8-10 hours). I did a youtube video on the difference between worn-out motor mounts and new ones (I won't post a link here because it insists on showing it as an embedded screen in the post). If you can't find it just search "Mercedes GLK 350 X204 - New vs. Worn Out Motor Mounts".
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Last edited by GLKwanter; Jun 9, 2023 at 02:23 PM.
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I'm not sure the problem the OP referenced applies to the X204 (seems to more of a diesel / V8 thing?). Anyway, yes... when the motor mounts are bad, they really transmit lots of shake and rumble to the rest of the vehicle. When you replace them, you can hardly tell the engine started.
If the car is a RWD variant, it's an easy 2-hour job (though it does require a special tool or two). If it's a 4Matic, it's a MUCH bigger job (8-10 hours). I did a youtube video on the difference between worn-out motor mounts and new ones (I won't post a link here because it insists on showing it as an embedded screen in the post). If you can't find it just search "Mercedes GLK 350 X204 - New vs. Worn Out Motor Mounts".
If the car is a RWD variant, it's an easy 2-hour job (though it does require a special tool or two). If it's a 4Matic, it's a MUCH bigger job (8-10 hours). I did a youtube video on the difference between worn-out motor mounts and new ones (I won't post a link here because it insists on showing it as an embedded screen in the post). If you can't find it just search "Mercedes GLK 350 X204 - New vs. Worn Out Motor Mounts".
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You'd have to read the thread I linked in my initial post, and find the MB service bulletin to understand the startup idle problem. It's got to do with oil in the upper timing chain area. This is why I said these issues are in the same vicinity and I wonder if they're connected. Also why I mentioned the oil. Very clean well maintained car, doesn't seem like a camshaft sensor should go at 135,000 mi.
Oil check valve is a well known and documented job that is needed on this engine.
This engine is smooth as silk when all components are nominal. If there is a vibration then something is non-nominal.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
From what I could discern from the bulletin (which affects the 60° V6 in the 2013 and up models, not the 90° in the older models with the 272-series engine), the problem is a rattle, not a misfire or rough idle.
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The bulletin, which I can't find ATM, but was in that thread I linked at one point, but it seems like that MBServicetech guys posts are all missing now, said "no damage is to be expected" from this issue, which had to do with the timing chain slapping until oil got up there. I have read vibration can shorten sensor life, but it's only for 2 seconds. You got a link to the oil check valve situation for the 276?
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Edit
It is exactly as that guy video recorded his glk startup in the post I linked
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Well ... @GLKwanter ... any new news on this? Would be curious to know if you've had any progress.
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Well ... @GLKwanter ... any new news on this? Would be curious to know if you've had any progress.
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Well the check engine light hasn't come back on. I'm changing the oil today and possibly calling AutohausAZ to ask whether I need the cylinder head check valves with or without a stepped oil supply bore. Got a question about which camshaft position sensor to get as well. Even when the light was on the one time it ran fine. Startup rattle is always the same. Give the oil long enough to drain down and you'll hear it next startup. Kind of wish I knew exactly what tools I was going to need to put the check valves in. I'll update if and when I do anything more than the oil change.
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I've heard good things on here about autohausAZ. Site says "genuine Mercedes camshaft position/ reference Mark sensor" 2769050800. I'm just not sure why that's two for $50, but 2769051000 is $38 for one. Seems like too deep of a discount and only one mentions the vehicle needing four sensors. Are these OEM parts or are they fibbing with that part title?
Out Of Control!!
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
I've heard good things on here about autohausAZ. Site says "genuine Mercedes camshaft position/ reference Mark sensor" 2769050800. I'm just not sure why that's two for $50, but 2769051000 is $38 for one. Seems like too deep of a discount and only one mentions the vehicle needing four sensors. Are these OEM parts or are they fibbing with that part title?
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Not really a bad approach, but keep in mind that Mercedes (and other auto manufacturers) don't actually make a whole lot of the parts that go into their cars (including things like sensors) but buy them from other (very legitimate) manufacturers. With a little info (often supplied by reputable parts vendors) you can identify which parts are actual OEM, even though they don't come with the tristar logo (but offset that with what's usually a much, much lower price).
