Odd vibration while turning
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2013 GLK350 4matic
Odd vibration while turning
Hello all, I have been lurking around the forums for a while but have never posted personally. I also scoured the internet for similar issues, however, there was always a variable that made me feel as if my issue may not be the same.
The issue: while my steering wheel is turned a minimum of 360 degrees in either direction, and while going forward or reverse at parking lot speeds, i get a new vibration? For lack of better words. The vibration feels as if it is coming from the rear differential but I haven't confirmed yet. This only happens while I'm turning the vehicle at slow speeds, hence the amount of steer angle. My steering wheel can turn lock to lock while stationary, so I don't believe any steering mechanism to be the culprit. There is absolutely zero vibration, shake, noise, etc.. while traveling at any speed, straight or otherwise. I am of course massively concerned of the issue being the transfer case and don't want to replace my transmission...
Is this detrimental to the vehicle? Is it suggested that i change front and rear diff fluid before having a transmission flush at my local MB indie shop? This vehicle is new to me and in immaculate condition despite having 140k on the clock. To my knowledge, the fluids are all likely original as I don't have service records. The car was an accident free one owner vehicle and I've put maybe 3k miles since I purchased it. The only service I've completed so far was an oil change, oil filter and air filter. Thanks for any and all input!!!
The issue: while my steering wheel is turned a minimum of 360 degrees in either direction, and while going forward or reverse at parking lot speeds, i get a new vibration? For lack of better words. The vibration feels as if it is coming from the rear differential but I haven't confirmed yet. This only happens while I'm turning the vehicle at slow speeds, hence the amount of steer angle. My steering wheel can turn lock to lock while stationary, so I don't believe any steering mechanism to be the culprit. There is absolutely zero vibration, shake, noise, etc.. while traveling at any speed, straight or otherwise. I am of course massively concerned of the issue being the transfer case and don't want to replace my transmission...
Is this detrimental to the vehicle? Is it suggested that i change front and rear diff fluid before having a transmission flush at my local MB indie shop? This vehicle is new to me and in immaculate condition despite having 140k on the clock. To my knowledge, the fluids are all likely original as I don't have service records. The car was an accident free one owner vehicle and I've put maybe 3k miles since I purchased it. The only service I've completed so far was an oil change, oil filter and air filter. Thanks for any and all input!!!
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2013 GLK350 4matic
Also, vibration may have been a bad word choice.. I'd refer to it as a shudder but I would associate that with a loss of power, which it doesn't have. I also made sure that all the tire pressure was 38 front / 45 rear as recommended just to rule out small things.
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From: WI
GLK 250
45? That might be good for a fully loaded vehicle including luggage and 5 people. I'd say that's probably overkill and will result in a harsher ride that transmits more noises and vibrations.
I'd suggest 36-38 all around. Make sure tires are stone cold first and use an accurate gauge.
As to the vibration/shudder you mentioned, I wouldn't worry about the transfer case just yet. But I would get all of the driveline fluids replaced (transmission, front diff, transfer case, and rear diff) and see what that's like.
The next thing I would do is check motor mounts and transmission mount. Most likely these kind of vibrations are caused by worn mounts. The transmission mount is easy to DIY and only costs about $75. The engine mounts are a PITA, so I'd leave those for last and only do them if you plan on keeping the car another 100K+ miles.
I'd suggest 36-38 all around. Make sure tires are stone cold first and use an accurate gauge.
As to the vibration/shudder you mentioned, I wouldn't worry about the transfer case just yet. But I would get all of the driveline fluids replaced (transmission, front diff, transfer case, and rear diff) and see what that's like.
The next thing I would do is check motor mounts and transmission mount. Most likely these kind of vibrations are caused by worn mounts. The transmission mount is easy to DIY and only costs about $75. The engine mounts are a PITA, so I'd leave those for last and only do them if you plan on keeping the car another 100K+ miles.
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Agreed with comment (@andreigbs) concerning the tire pressures - even had a thread about this ... I've always used the sticker on the driver's door jam for any vehicle I've owned.
Guess what, it was pointed out to me, and I always overlooked it, but there's *also* a sticker on the fuel-filler flap! Ours shows 35f 38r for Normal Load, 38f 45r for Max Load.
Guess what, it was pointed out to me, and I always overlooked it, but there's *also* a sticker on the fuel-filler flap! Ours shows 35f 38r for Normal Load, 38f 45r for Max Load.
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2013 GLK350 4matic
Much thanks for the responses and energy invested in my thread. That's what I will do this weekend: front and rear differential fluid, transmission/transfer case fluid/filter and I'll have a look at the mounts throughout once I've got it on the lift. Worst case scenario, it doesn't remedy the issue.. BUT I'll have this car for at least another 100k so creating a service record and getting everything fresh is a great idea. for the record, the tire pressure on all four was between 32-38 and yes, 45 is too stiff in the rear lol. I thought it'd be the easiest place to start and honestly I never noticed the tire pressure recommendations in the fuel door. Fingers crossed all she needs is fresh fluids throughout
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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2013 glk 350
More likely a CV joint . Always a good idea new fluids . FCP euro will make sure you have correct fluid. Do not flush transmission, drain and fill ! It’s an expensive job as temp is monitored through the buss. Not a IR thermometer, Find a good mechanic, MB dealers rip you off .
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Joined: Feb 2024
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GLK300
Same issue
I'm having similar issue as described here, with my 2011 GLK300.
Small vibration on forward low speed turns (parking). Also higher vibrational while low speed backwards and turning.
I already changed the transmission mount that was bad. The issue continues the same. Seems to come from the rear (diif?).
The mechanic inspect the car and said there is no visible mechanical issue. Also he said it is not wheel bearings. He will search for more information with some colleagues. I think next steps would be the diff fluid change. Transmission oil change (with the flush) uses around 10L of fluid and it is very expensive.
Any new information about this type of issue?
Thanks
Small vibration on forward low speed turns (parking). Also higher vibrational while low speed backwards and turning.
I already changed the transmission mount that was bad. The issue continues the same. Seems to come from the rear (diif?).
The mechanic inspect the car and said there is no visible mechanical issue. Also he said it is not wheel bearings. He will search for more information with some colleagues. I think next steps would be the diff fluid change. Transmission oil change (with the flush) uses around 10L of fluid and it is very expensive.
Any new information about this type of issue?
Thanks
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 3
From: Nigeria
2011 GLK 350 4matic
I'm having similar issue as described here, with my 2011 GLK300.
Small vibration on forward low speed turns (parking). Also higher vibrational while low speed backwards and turning.
I already changed the transmission mount that was bad. The issue continues the same. Seems to come from the rear (diif?).
The mechanic inspect the car and said there is no visible mechanical issue. Also he said it is not wheel bearings. He will search for more information with some colleagues. I think next steps would be the diff fluid change. Transmission oil change (with the flush) uses around 10L of fluid and it is very expensive.
Any new information about this type of issue?
Thanks
Small vibration on forward low speed turns (parking). Also higher vibrational while low speed backwards and turning.
I already changed the transmission mount that was bad. The issue continues the same. Seems to come from the rear (diif?).
The mechanic inspect the car and said there is no visible mechanical issue. Also he said it is not wheel bearings. He will search for more information with some colleagues. I think next steps would be the diff fluid change. Transmission oil change (with the flush) uses around 10L of fluid and it is very expensive.
Any new information about this type of issue?
Thanks
how did you solve yours
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
The OP disappeared late 2023.
Others who have asked the same question, only have one post and disappeared (over a year ago) 🙂
I'd say the most logical response is @habbyguy 's reply. Pursue that potential problem.
Others who have asked the same question, only have one post and disappeared (over a year ago) 🙂
I'd say the most logical response is @habbyguy 's reply. Pursue that potential problem.
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2014 glk 350 4matic
Why didn't you just change the auxiliary gear? (Aka transfer case)
I recognize its called auxiliary gear in nigeria, but why didn't you replace the auxiliary instead of changing the whole transmission?
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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Newbie
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From: Nigeria
2011 GLK 350 4matic
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2014 glk 350 4matic
Did the vibration come back?
ok, mine is a 2014 glk and i get vibrations when turning slowly from either side it later developed to a bumping sound felt in the back seat when going straight that isn't felt after 30mph, all of the vibrations reduce when the car is cold and hasn't been driven for hours, if I can get an auxiliary, should I? or is it better to get a donor or used transmission? Also if you can recommend a reliable and honest mechanic ill be greatful.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2025
Posts: 4
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From: Nigeria
2011 GLK 350 4matic
ok, mine is a 2014 glk and i get vibrations when turning slowly from either side it later developed to a bumping sound felt in the back seat when going straight that isn't felt after 30mph, all of the vibrations reduce when the car is cold and hasn't been driven for hours, if I can get an auxiliary, should I? or is it better to get a donor or used transmission? Also if you can recommend a reliable and honest mechanic ill be greatful.
Donor or used transmissions are very good and make sure to get it tested by your mechanic, this is about 6 months down the lane and the noise never came back
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
The "auxiliary gear" (transfer case in US-speak) is an "integral" part of the transmission, but can be fixed without replacing or removing the transmission. I did that on mine, and made a pretty comprehensive video showing what's involved. I actually made two videos, with the second video covering the lessons learned about damaging the front output shaft seal (so, so, so easy to do) and properly setting preload on the bearings (necessary if you replace the output gear cluster, and/or the bearings).
Lots of info on the parts and tools required in the video descriptions...
The job is not for the faint of heart, or for those whose tool kit can be lifted with two fingers... but it IS DIY-able (hey, if I can do it...). ;-)
Lots of info on the parts and tools required in the video descriptions...
The job is not for the faint of heart, or for those whose tool kit can be lifted with two fingers... but it IS DIY-able (hey, if I can do it...). ;-)
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2014 glk 350 4matic
ok thank you sir , I sent you a private message.
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2014 glk 350 4matic
I don't have a car lift :(
The "auxiliary gear" (transfer case in US-speak) is an "integral" part of the transmission, but can be fixed without replacing or removing the transmission. I did that on mine, and made a pretty comprehensive video showing what's involved. I actually made two videos, with the second video covering the lessons learned about damaging the front output shaft seal (so, so, so easy to do) and properly setting preload on the bearings (necessary if you replace the output gear cluster, and/or the bearings).
Lots of info on the parts and tools required in the video descriptions...
The job is not for the faint of heart, or for those whose tool kit can be lifted with two fingers... but it IS DIY-able (hey, if I can do it...). ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZN35QDiBV8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNt68kNdFUU
Lots of info on the parts and tools required in the video descriptions...
The job is not for the faint of heart, or for those whose tool kit can be lifted with two fingers... but it IS DIY-able (hey, if I can do it...). ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZN35QDiBV8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNt68kNdFUU
