Front wheel bearing removal/install procedures
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Front wheel bearing removal/install procedures
Must appreciated if someone could provide the procedures to replace the front wheel bearings. 2014 GLK 350, rear wheel drive.
I checked the WIS, but could only find procedures for the rear wheel bearings.
I checked the WIS, but could only find procedures for the rear wheel bearings.
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: South Central Texas
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2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Although I don't have experience with a GLK's bearings ... I'm curious...
How many miles do you have on the GLK?
Also, what prompted you to decide the bearings need to be changed?
How many miles do you have on the GLK?
Also, what prompted you to decide the bearings need to be changed?
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
It has ~110,000 miles. Grinding noise started to occur from the front end when making turns at low speed.
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calder-cay (06-08-2024)
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have the instructions for pressing out/installing w204 front bearings.
Remove the wheel carrier which is straight forward, then press out the bearings. Or do you need instructions on removing the wheel carrier also?
*Found these instructions:
GLK Front:
Remove the wheel carrier which is straight forward, then press out the bearings. Or do you need instructions on removing the wheel carrier also?
*Found these instructions:
GLK Front:
Last edited by TimC300; 06-08-2024 at 08:26 PM.
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#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Much appreciated for your help. The procedure is very detailed, except I would like to re-use the wheel hub (axle shaft flange in MB dictionary). The procedure states "A bearing shell remains on the axle shaft flange" and "Always install a new axle shaft flange". Do you have any insight on what tool I could use to remove the bearing shell (inner race of the bearing I assume) out of the wheel hub?
Also, for the bolt numbered 60 in the first diagram of your post, any way you could find the tightening torque?
Thanks again!
Also, for the bolt numbered 60 in the first diagram of your post, any way you could find the tightening torque?
Thanks again!
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here is a video where the guy removes the bearing from the axle shaft:
For the axle bolt I looked it up for my W204 4matic while researching how to replace a torn cv axle boot and have:
1- Torque to 160nm.
2- Loosen bolt.
3- Torque to 120nm.
4- Tighten 90 degrees.
I saw it in a Pelican Parts article:
For the axle bolt I looked it up for my W204 4matic while researching how to replace a torn cv axle boot and have:
1- Torque to 160nm.
2- Loosen bolt.
3- Torque to 120nm.
4- Tighten 90 degrees.
I saw it in a Pelican Parts article:
Last edited by TimC300; 06-08-2024 at 11:22 PM.
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pwhou (06-09-2024)
#7
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2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
I reused the wheel hub. I had a little local garage press in the new bearing. Leave the ABS sensor on the hub, just unplug it. You will damage it or strip/break the bolt if you try to remove it..
Mine failed suddenly at around 92,000 miles (right front).
Mine failed suddenly at around 92,000 miles (right front).
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pwhou (06-09-2024)
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#8
Super Member
It's normal process to press out the old hub and reuse it (unless it's damaged somehow). This is where owning a shop press is a very good thing (my 12 ton Harbor Freight press has paid for itself many times over).
FWIW I haven't had any problem removing the ABS (wheel speed) sensors - which is usually a good idea to prevent damaging them. OTOH, those of you who live in the frozen north probably have more of a problem with this than I would (living in the SW desert).
FWIW I haven't had any problem removing the ABS (wheel speed) sensors - which is usually a good idea to prevent damaging them. OTOH, those of you who live in the frozen north probably have more of a problem with this than I would (living in the SW desert).
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pwhou (06-09-2024)
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Was going to ask isnt the sensor in the way of pressing the bearing out? Mines a new England vehicle so would probably want to replace the sensor while im in there anyways. Location makes a huge difference with the condition of parts, I buy a lot of used parts from California salvage yards on eBay and they look almost brand new compared to whats under my car.
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pwhou (06-09-2024)
#10
Super Member
I can';t swear about the Mercedes, but on other vehicles I've done similar jobs on, they do tell you to remove the wheel speed sensors to avoid damaging them. Even if they didn't extend slightly into the knuckle's bore, just schlepping them around while pressing bearings in and out could end up damaging them.
And I couldn't agree more about the joys of rust-free vehicles. Living in the Arizona desert means that my 1996 Jeep's chassis looks pretty much like it did when it rolled off the assembly line.
And I couldn't agree more about the joys of rust-free vehicles. Living in the Arizona desert means that my 1996 Jeep's chassis looks pretty much like it did when it rolled off the assembly line.
#11
Member
I noticed on my '13 GLK350 that the sensor housing is kind of like a ball on the end of a stalk and fits into a slot with the corresponding hole at the end of the slot for the ball. It needed to be slid out of the slot, not pulled out by the wire - nearly broke mine until I saw it was keyed.