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Two or three years ago I bought replacement rear hatch struts assuming the originals would be on the way out. No sign of that whatsoever but today I decided to change them out anyway. Took about 4 minutes to gather a couple of tools and about 2 minutes to change the struts. Absolutely no change. Works fine with the new struts as it did with the original struts from 2013. Live and learn.
Surprised the originals weren't more degraded; mine certainly were and mine is a 2014. New gas shocks certainly help minimize strain on the electric motor that opens the tailgate. Closing it is less wearisome since gravity assists as well.
Surprised the originals weren't more degraded; mine certainly were and mine is a 2014. New gas shocks certainly help minimize strain on the electric motor that opens the tailgate. Closing it is less wearisome since gravity assists as well.
You should be good for another 10 years now...
Yeah, should be okay for a while. Not very scientific but I tried compressing the new and old struts, off the vehicle, by hand, but couldn't get either to move.
...today I decided to change them out anyway. Took about 4 minutes to gather a couple of tools and about 2 minutes to change the struts. Absolutely no change.
I changed mine a couple of years back and was also underwhelmed by the improvement, but, no regrets; they were swelling from rust and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer. Regardless, I couldn't compress either the new or the old ones by hand.
I wonder how spectacular a blowout would have been?
I changed mine a couple of years back and was also underwhelmed by the improvement, but, no regrets; they were swelling from rust and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer. Regardless, I couldn't compress either the new or the old ones by hand.
I wonder how spectacular a blowout would have been?
Could have been ugly if one "burst failed" while the hatch was open. My old ones have no rust.
UPDATE: just swapped out the hood struts with new Stabilus units. Fit is perfect and took all of 5 minutes.
The old ones were not too bad, although the hood would not stay up with one of them removed. After replacing both, I tested the old ones and they had some good resistance still. Probably didn't need to be done, and nowhere near the condition of the OE units on the rear hatch that I had previously replaced. Those had started to swell around the ends and had almost no resistance when removed.
So bottom line: if your GLK is nearing 10 years old, probably just replace the rear hatch struts. The hood struts probably don't need replacing yet. I'll keep the old ones around just in case...
UPDATE: just swapped out the hood struts with new Stabilus units. Fit is perfect and took all of 5 minutes.
The old ones were not too bad, although the hood would not stay up with one of them removed. After replacing both, I tested the old ones and they had some good resistance still. Probably didn't need to be done, and nowhere near the condition of the OE units on the rear hatch that I had previously replaced. Those had started to swell around the ends and had almost no resistance when removed.
So bottom line: if your GLK is nearing 10 years old, probably just replace the rear hatch struts. The hood struts probably don't need replacing yet. I'll keep the old ones around just in case...
My hood struts seem fine but I noticed, yesterday, the driver's side strut squeaks when I lower the hood. The other strut does not.
2013 with 180k miles. Replaced my rears twice. Once in 2022 and once this year. First time, the trunk wasn't opening and closing that smooth, but after removing the struts they still had some life. Second time, the trunk wouldn't stay up correctly. After taking them off, one of them was totally gone. Got them replaced under warranty (mostly) by FCPEuro. Working well now.
2013 with 180k miles. Replaced my rears twice. Once in 2022 and once this year. First time, the trunk wasn't opening and closing that smooth, but after removing the struts they still had some life. Second time, the trunk wouldn't stay up correctly. After taking them off, one of them was totally gone. Got them replaced under warranty (mostly) by FCPEuro. Working well now.
Brand new to the forum, picked up a 2015 GLK 350 with 91,000km last year. Rear hatch struts still functioning fine but both have rust and metal is starting to ‘split’ so definitely need to replace them. Super helpful to see the tools you used. Wondering what the pliers wrench was used for? Also, are OEM parts definitely the way to go or could you use an alternative?
Brand new to the forum, picked up a 2015 GLK 350 with 91,000km last year. Rear hatch struts still functioning fine but both have rust and metal is starting to ‘split’ so definitely need to replace them. Super helpful to see the tools you used. Wondering what the pliers wrench was used for? Also, are OEM parts definitely the way to go or could you use an alternative?
If you have the motorized rear hatch opener version I would not be too certain that the deteriorated struts are providing enough "oompf." That will put additional strain on the motor and associated mechanism. If you don't have the motorized version and the struts keep the hatch up then you're fine, for now. In any event, you want to get them changed-out.
A few years ago, when I bought them, I think I paid the equivalent of about $25.00 U.S. each for the struts at an official M-B dealership. I would get the O.E.M. Stabilus brand. At this point it's unlikely you'll have to change them again.
The plastic-jawed pliers were to press the spring-loaded socket onto to the ball at the top end of the hatch without damaging paint. The plastic-headed hammer was to tap the strut socket, at the bottom, onto the lower ball.
(and, of course, :-) the funky looking thing in the trunk, on the right, is a 120 volt, Glade?? air freshener plugged in to the 120 volt outlet. The outlet is only powered when the car is "on" so not really a worry, regarding battery discharge.)
If you have the motorized rear hatch opener version I would not be too certain that the deteriorated struts are providing enough "oompf." That will put additional strain on the motor and associated mechanism. If you don't have the motorized version and the struts keep the hatch up then you're fine, for now. In any event, you want to get them changed-out.
A few years ago, when I bought them, I think I paid the equivalent of about $25.00 U.S. each for the struts at an official M-B dealership. I would get the O.E.M. Stabilus brand. At this point it's unlikely you'll have to change them again.
The plastic-jawed pliers were to press the spring-loaded socket onto to the ball at the top end of the hatch without damaging paint. The plastic-headed hammer was to tap the strut socket, at the bottom, onto the lower ball.
(and, of course, :-) the funky looking thing in the trunk, on the right, is a 120 volt, Glade?? air freshener plugged in to the 120 volt outlet. The outlet is only powered when the car is "on" so not really a worry, regarding battery discharge.)
Thanks so much - all really helpful to know! I have the motorized/powered version so it will be interesting to see if there’s an improvement after installing new ones.
Official M-B parts department here in Toronto is charging $100+ CAD per strut. I am seeing some Stabilus options online for around the $25-35 USD like you mentioned, which would definitely be preferable. Here’s a link to the struts for powered tailgates: https://partsavatar.ca/stabilus-lift-support-4b521503
Also really appreciate the info about how the pliers were used and good tip about the air freshener! Didn’t even notice it until you mentioned it : )
Thanks so much - all really helpful to know! I have the motorized/powered version so it will be interesting to see if there’s an improvement after installing new ones.
Official M-B parts department here in Toronto is charging $100+ CAD per strut. I am seeing some Stabilus options online for around the $25-35 USD like you mentioned, which would definitely be preferable. Here’s a link to the struts for powered tailgates: https://partsavatar.ca/stabilus-lift-support-4b521503
Also really appreciate the info about how the pliers were used and good tip about the air freshener! Didn’t even notice it until you mentioned it : )
I'm not sure you'll notice any improvement if the current struts have not lost pressure, or much pressure. Still, based on your description of your current struts it's time for replacement. I would not worry about getting Stabilus struts from an M-B dealer or ones with an M-B symbol printed on them. You'll just pay a premium. Stabilus also supplies struts for the "prancing horse" cars and the originals have a prancing horse on them. Buying the same struts without the horsey saves a fair bit of money.
As you probably know, the opening height limit of the hatch can be electrically set so it does not open all the way (to compensate for low garage ceilings etc.). If yours is set lower you may want to temporarily reset it to full height opening. It may help with installing the new struts as you won't be able to compress/shorten them by hand when installing.
I'm not sure you'll notice any improvement if the current struts have not lost pressure, or much pressure. Still, based on your description of your current struts it's time for replacement. I would not worry about getting Stabilus struts from an M-B dealer or ones with an M-B symbol printed on them. You'll just pay a premium. Stabilus also supplies struts for the "prancing horse" cars and the originals have a prancing horse on them. Buying the same struts without the horsey saves a fair bit of money.
As you probably know, the opening height limit of the hatch can be electrically set so it does not open all the way (to compensate for low garage ceilings etc.). If yours is set lower you may want to temporarily reset it to full height opening. It may help with installing the new struts as you won't be able to compress/shorten them by hand when installing.
If the replacement struts function the same as they do currently, that would be fine by me, as they still work very well thankfully.
Your clarification that the dealership part is an M-B stamped Stabilus is very reassuring for someone like myself who is new to the brand, so thanks very much for that! Feeling confident to go ahead and order the Stabilus parts now : )
And I did have the same thought about having to reset my tailgate height back to maximum before installing (also thanks to previous comments in this thread) but it never hurts to get confirmation from someone who knows better, so once again, highly appreciated!
If the replacement struts function the same as they do currently, that would be fine by me, as they still work very well thankfully.
Your clarification that the dealership part is an M-B stamped Stabilus is very reassuring for someone like myself who is new to the brand, so thanks very much for that! Feeling confident to go ahead and order the Stabilus parts now : )
And I did have the same thought about having to reset my tailgate height back to maximum before installing (also thanks to previous comments in this thread) but it never hurts to get confirmation from someone who knows better, so once again, highly appreciated!
De nada.
Honestly, I don't recall if my original struts had a Mercedes symbol on them (but I know that's the case with some other makes of automobiles). If they just come in M-B packaging there will probably be some markup.
When I took off my original 11 year old struts they seemed fine. Never a problem and no rust or anything like that. I had already purchased new ones and got tired of waiting for the originals to fail so I figured I'd just change them. Once the old ones were off I tried to see if they would compress (from wear or leakage) but no chance. Seemed just as stiff as the new ones.
Same deal with the main battery - just won't fail, but I haven't installed the new one yet. Waiting for warmer weather. Then I'll just change it out, regardless.
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